El Calderon, 699 Calderon Ave., Mountain View, 940-9533
In this unpretentious restaurant, gourd cups are taken for granted along with plantains and yucca root. They're all part of owner Angela Lopez's Salvadoran roots. While similar to Mexican food, the fare is flavored with mild, Cuban-style flavorings. You can see the resemblance in pupusas--two homemade masa tortillas that seal in a mixture of cheese with meat or beans. A rich entree of fried plantains served on beans with soured cream makes the dessert version of fried plantains and cream seem shallow and unfinished by comparison. You'll know for sure you're getting a taste of El Salvador if you try the yucca root "salad"--piping hot chunks of white yucca and crispy crumbles of pork scattered over a bed of tart, lemony slaw. (Reviewed Sept. 26, 1990)
Elbe German and European Cuisine, 117 University Ave., Palo Alto, 321-3319
The menu here has all the classics of Central European cooking, and although we may know some of the names (Wienerschnitzel, for example), this does not mean that all of this will be familiar. Care to start your meal with a nice plate of head cheese ($3.95), or perhaps some quail eggs stuffed in mushrooms ($5.95)? The hearty split pea soup is divine, as is the Wienerschnitzel, sauerbraten and potato pancakes. Hungarian goulash ($10.95) comes with spatzle. There's a good variety of German, French and California wines, as well as desserts as only the Germans can do: German chocolate cake and homemade apple strudel with vanilla sauce (available specially packaged for takeout). Live accordion music on some nights. Hours: Lunch 11:30-2 p.m. Mon-Sat.; dinner 5-10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed May 19, 1995)
Empire Grill and Tap Room, 651 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 321-3030
A custom-made mahogany bar runs the length of the dining room/bar. Eight oversized booths line the other wall, creating a convivial setup. There are 16 beers on tap, including such rarities as Pilsner Urquell and Anderson Valley Oatmeal Stout. But the real treasure of the Empire is its outdoor patio, a gracious dining room that happens to lack a ceiling. Well-spaced tables are covered with white linens in an atmosphere that is subdued but made friendly by a trickling fountain and rustling greenery. The menu offers a nice cross-section of California homestyle cuisine: meats from an open grill, side dishes like sauteed spinach, mashed potatoes, fries with garlic mayonnaise and roasted new potatoes, fresh fish and such appetizer staples as steamed mussels, carpaccio, grilled polenta and fried calamari. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. (Reviewed March 1, 1996)
Ephesus, 2639 Broadway, Redwood City, 365-1223
This Turkish restaurant is comfortably decorated and offers simple, healthy food. Lamb is a specialty and comes in many forms--gyros, kabobs, cubes, slices--and is cooked in a variety of ways. The menu also boasts a solid selection of appetizers, as well as fish, poultry and vegetarian entrees. Entree prices range from about $9 to $14, and all diners are treated to baskets of impeccably fresh, warm, sesame-scented flatbread. Ephesus's appeal lies in its mastery of dishes that tourist brochures term "traditional." Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tues.-Sat.; 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Sun. (Reviewed Dec. 6, 1996.)
Eugene's Polish Restaurant, 420 San Antonio Road, Los Altos, 941-1222
This Old World Polish restaurant provides a taste of European culture and food right here on the Midpeninsula. The goulash is particularly good. Other offerings include a non-traditional borscht with potato, onion and garlic, stuffed cabbage, herring and, of course, Polish sausage. Dishes tend to be on the mild side, what some might consider bland. The ambience is festive, with servers dressed in Central European attire. The full bar has a big selection of beer and a moderately priced wine list. Lunches highlight ham on rye sandwiches, omelets and salads. Dinners are served Tues.-Sat. 5-10 p.m. and lunch Tues.-Fri. from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. (Reviewed Dec. 19, 1990)
Evvia Estiatorio, 420 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 326-0983
Evvia advertises itself as Greek. But it's as adventuresome as any Silicon Valley start-up that pushes the envelope, breaks the rules and gives customers exactly what they want. Evvia serves up Greek-flavored dishes loosely inspired by California's fresh cuisine. Partners George and Judy Marcus and Kenny and Angie Frangadakis gathered their families' recipes from the islands of Samos, Crete and, of course, Evvia. They put them in the hands of their chef and told him to go creative. The result is feta and filo, grilled fish and lamb chops, pizza-like "pita," and even Greek-flavored pasta. Purists may be disappointed. But then, Evvia isn't for purists. It's for hedonists. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. Closed Sun. (Reviewed Sept. 8, 1995)
Fabbro's, 2915 El Camino Real, Redwood City, 368-1491
The pickiest in-law and the finickiest great-aunt would like this Redwood City restaurant. It exudes peace and quiet; nobody is going to rush your dining experience. The mood is enhanced by the comfortable decor: wood paneling, lace curtains, white linen. Even before you get a chance to order appetizers, they bring out an ample plate of cold meat and vegetables to prime you for the task ahead. There is also a serving of bread made available, as well as a properly seasoned dish of garbonzo beans. Although those with light appetites could almost fill themselves up on the complimentary starters, do not hesitate to take advantage of the other choices. Dinner entrees come with the choice of soup, salad or ravioli. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m. (Reviewed Dec. 23, 1994)
Fambrini's Terrace Caffe & Catering Company, 2600 El Camimo Real, Palo Alto, 858-1268
Executives in suits, mothers with babies and lunchtime regulars find their way up to Fambrini's Terrace Cafe, tucked away above the Bank of America on El Camino near California Avenue. It's a small cafe with a dozen tables inside and at least that many more outside on a tree-shaded terrace. Through the leaves of the trees, you can see the towers of Palo Alto Square and rooftops of less imposing edifices. The expansive view is quite a contrast to the tiny kitchen where Patty Fambrini and her crew cook up everything from stuffed pork rolls to espresso brownies. Each day, you'll find half a dozen salads, a roster of regular sandwiches and a specials board listing one low-fat entree along with sandwich specials and hot dishes. At breakfast, eggs and toast with either bacon or ham go for $4.25. For morning or afternoon snacks, there are espresso drinks and big Italian sodas. Hours: 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday. (Reviewed Oct. 27, 1995)
Fanny and Alexander, 412 Emerson, Palo Alto, 326-7183
A framed poster of the movie that inspired the restaurant's name is the only reminder of Fanny and Alexander's origins as a Scandanavian restaurant. The appellation was suitably evocative when venison and cod cakes were on the menu. But now, it's potentially confusing. Part nightclub, part sports-bar, part happy hour hangout, Fanny and Alexander is more than just a restaurant. The kitchen offers tasty homestyle food cooked with creative flair: BLT on a toasted brioche, a mahi mahi fillet sandwich, warm spinach salad, meatloaf with mashed potatoes, beer-battered onion rings, filet mignon. The outdoor patio is a refuge from the hustle and bustle of downtown. Inside, plant baskets hang from the ceiling and each table is set with a small vase of carnations. The hard-surfaced surroundings--tiled flooring, old brick walls--are attractive, if acoustically unfriendly. Hours: Daily 11:30 a.m.-1:30 a.m. (lunch/brunch service to 1:30 p.m., dinner to 10 p.m.) (Reviewed April 19, 1996)
Fiesta del Mar Too, 735 Villa St., Mountain View, 967-3525
Fiesta del Mar Too is the latest addition to the roster of health-Mex joints. Despite its small menu and fast-food ambience, Fiesta del Mar Too is no run-of-the-mill, chain-store taqueria. The clean airy restaurant is the second venture of Alexandro Garcia, who also owns Fiesta del Mar on Shoreline Boulevard in Mountain View. Like its sister restaurant, Fiesta del Mar Too wants to be known for its shrimp and seafood dishes. Also, don't miss their $3 flan. Hours: Monday-Thursday 10:30 a.m.-11p.m.; Friday-Saturday 10:30 a.m.-midnight; Sunday 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. (Reviewed Aug. 18, 1994)
The Fish Market, 3150 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 493-9188
Offering fresh fish served grilled, baked, smoked and broiled or any other way you like it, the bustling, rather noisy Fish Market has 20-30 choices of fish, depending on the season. For the most part, the food lives up to the fresh billing, although every time we strayed away from the menu's centerpiece--the broiled fish entrees--we were disappointed to some degree. But stick with the mesquite wood charcoal broiled fresh fish and you won't go wrong. Standard fare is a fish entree with rice or potatoes, along with appetizers ranging from white clam chowder or several different seafood cocktails. Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon.-Fri., noon-5 p.m. Sun.; dinner 5-11 p.m. Market opens one hour earlier than the restaurant. (Reviewed April 8, 1994)
Flea St. Cafe, 3607 Alameda de las Pulgas, Menlo Park, 854-1226
This totally organic, gourmet kitchen turns out some of the best food on the Peninsula. From tender scallops with enoki and shiitake mushrooms dotted with tiny purple flowers to grilled salmon and mashed potatoes, everything is lovingly prepared and presented picture perfect. California-style fresh takes shape with hints of ethnic cuisines and specials change nightly. Vegetarians will find sumptuous offerings, as will those who love chicken or fish. Salads are made with the most delicate greens, sauces are light and bursting with flavor, fish is ocean-fresh and desserts too good to pass up. Open for lunch Tues.-Fri. from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and dinner Tues. to Sun. 5:30-9:30 p.m. Brunch is served weekends from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. (Reviewed July 12, 1992)
Frankie, Johnnie, Luigi Too, 939 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View, 967-5384
From the garlic-infused Caesar salad to the authentic pizza pie, to the hearty pasta and meat entrees, this lively Italian restaurant is the place to go for generous servings of satisfyingly rich food. Although the size of the restaurant and its menu offerings have grown over the years, the quality of the dining experience has remained constant. Highlights include the thick, yeasty-crusted pizza ($11-$16) and pasta dishes with succulent sauces. Full dinners ($10-$13) run the gamut from tiger prawns sauteed with garlic, shallots, tomatoes and white wine to New York-style Italian sausage with bell peppers. Hours are 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Mon.-Thurs.; to 2 a.m. Fri.-Sat.; and 1 p.m. to midnight Sunday. (Reviewed March 27, 1991)
Fresco, 3398 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 493-3470
A moderately priced cafe-style restaurant where the entrees are inventive, but straightforward and decidedly unpretentious. The menu is diverse, featuring mostly garlicky California cuisine, but also some old-fashioned stand-bys such as pork chops and mashed potatoes. The restaurant is divided into a comfortable dining room with gigantic booths, linen tablecloths, a counter and a full wall of windows; and the smaller, darker, more romantic dining room that is still laid-back enough for a quick bite with a group of friends. Try the famous Roasted Red Pepper Soup ($2.25 cup, $3.25 bowl). A small, but interesting breakfast menu. Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. 6 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun. 7 a.m.-10 p.m.; brunch 9 a.m.-2 p.m. (Reviewed July 16, 1993)
Fresh Taste Mandarin Kitchen, 2111 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 324-8749
Fresh Taste Mandarin Kitchen offers lower-fat versions of many traditional favorites such as mu shu pork and kung pao chicken. The restaurant has banned all canned produce. Instead of water-logged bamboo shoots and water chestnuts, you get fresh local ingredients. Don't get the idea that any of these dishes are incredible edibles. Fresh Taste doesn't aspire to innovation. The restaurant simply produces healthier versions of old standbys. Service is generally gracious and attentive. Communication is sometimes difficult, but servers go out of their way to accommodate. Hours: Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. (Reviewed Feb. 4, 1994)
Gambardella's Ristorante Italiano, 561 Oak Grove Ave., Menlo Park, 325-6989
The atmosphere in this dining room is one of festivity and great food, all made better with generous portions of garlic. White linen and fresh flowers set each table. Giant garlic braids dangle from the ceiling and classical music, often opera, sets the mood. First courses like polenta fritta con porcini e pepperoni--a masterful combination of crispy polenta wedges, mushrooms and peppers--whet the appetite. There is a never-ending supply of tomato and red pepper spread and warm house-made foccacia bread, sublime green salads and pastas and fish specials prepared to perfection. A full range of coffee drinks and a generous wine list featuring Italian selections round out a meal that can only be described as scrumptious. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tues. to Fri. Dinner starting at 5:30 p.m. Tues. through Sun. (Reviewed Feb. 24, 1993)
Garden Fresh Vegetarian Restaurant, 1245 El Camino Real, Mountain View, 961-7795
Run by Buddhist owner Jesse Ma, the restaurant serves no meat, no fish, no dairy and no eggs--the perfect fare for tender-hearted animal lovers, strict vegetarians, people concerned about over-fishing and "lite" eaters concerned about their arteries. Because not only does Ma limit the foods she is working with, she also skimps on fat. Although vegans will feel understood at Garden Fresh, the restaurant deserves a wider audience, including meat-and-potatoes types who can find substance aplenty in trick-of-the-palette dishes like sweet and sour vegetarian "pork" and orange vegetarian "beef." Napkins are paper, tables are Formica, the walls are wood veneer and the floors are lino. But the food is a wonder. Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. daily (open until 10 p.m. Fri. and Sat.) (Reviewed Feb. 11, 1994)
Garden Grill, 1026 Alma St., Menlo Park, 325-8981
This elegant restaurant makes hasty pudding of all the grousing about British food. Appetizers range from dainty griddled scallops on puffs of smoked salmon mousse to the incomparable "Devils on Horseback"--bacon wrapped prunes stuffed with chutney served on toast points spread with mustard cream sauce. Fresh game dishes are based on tender, ranch-raised elk and deer. Seafood includes the likes of grilled salmon in shellfish sauce or shellfish braised in saffron cream sauce. Portions are ladylike. For a special tea-time treat, try the "cream tea" served with tiny scones, jam and sinful faux clotted cream. The Red Terrier Public House, a cozy pub addition to the restaurant, offers tasty "snack food" such as fish and chips for reasonable prices. Hours for lunch are 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner is from 5:30-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat. (Reviewed May 12, 1995)
Gaylord, 1706 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 326-8761
Gaylord remains in a totally different league from the more modest Indian restaurants that have sprung up all over the Bay Area in the past decade. It's more expensive than most, but it's well worth it if you're looking for the best in Indian food. Gaylord's mesquite-fueled clay ovens work magic not only with leavened breads but also with chicken, lamb and fish. The interior is regally elegant and the wait staff seem to have a sixth sense when it comes to pacing. It is Northern Indian cuisine in its full, multidimensional complexity. The restaurant recently moved after 14 years in the Stanford Shopping Center. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Jan. 31, 1997)
Gombei Japanese Restaurant, 1438 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 329-1799
Simple and soul-satisfying Japanese cuisine with a special emphasis on noodle dishes make Gombei unique on the Peninsula. Featured are unusual combinations like large, deep fried balls of mashed potatoes flavored with curry and mushrooms, a croquette of faux crab, fried cutlet and broiled fish or Spanish mackerel steeped in soy and mirin. More traditional dishes include noodle, rice, chicken and egg combinations served in earthenware bowls. Don't forget to look at the specials board. You will occasionally find California Rolls there. It's also been the source of such interesting treats as saki-flavored cod and hot or cold buckwheat noodles (soba) with fried tuna ($8.50). The restaurant doesn't take checks or credit cards. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:00 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. daily. (Reviewed June 7, 1996)
Gordon Biersch, 640 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 323-7723
Gordon Biersch has come to represent everything the Silicon Valley singles set seems to want in a restaurant and drinking establishment: terrible acoustics, inventive California cuisine, friendly service, good beer and masses of "beautiful people" milling about. Dean Biersch, the half of the dynamite duo who honchos the kitchen, serves up interesting appetizers, entrees, salads and sandwiches: Roasted Leg of Lamb Sandwich ($7.50), served with rosemary aioli, olive focaccia and brie; and the Marzen Prawn Salad ($8.50), which comes on walnut bread with a side of leeks and red pepper puree, for example. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. weekdays; 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Sat. and Sun. (Reviewed Oct. 22, 1993)
Gourmet Franks, 199 Stanford Shopping Center, 327-7246
This tiny storefront at the Stanford Shopping Center offers the healthiest sausages available. There's a chicken apple sausage that dietitians would love. It weighs in with only 120 calories, no sodium and 4.5 percent fat ($3.95). Schwarz's Lemon Chicken comes with a tingle of cayenne pepper ($3.25). There's a vegetarian version ($2.95), and a Louisiana Hot. There's a toppings bar with so many choices you can bury your hot dog under an avalanche of extras: fresh tomatoes, onions, sauerkraut, cheddar cheese, relishes, mustards, ketchup, mayonnaise, etc. Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday. (Reviewed Nov. 25, 1994)
Following are condensed versions, in alphabetical order, of longer restaurant reviews published in the Weekly over the past several years. This week's reviews begin where the list ended one week ago.
Higashi West, 636 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 323-9378
Irreverent combinations of East-West cuisine are the trademark of this Palo Alto restaurant. The long, narrow dining room is elegantly sparse, yet artful. A traditional sushi bar offers ocean-fresh classics, but the menu really caters to the adventurous. An "ELT" roll features eel, lettuce and tomato. Spicy tuna roll is raw tuna, Vietnamese chili paste, Chinese chili oil and Japanese chili powder, plus a splash of sesame oil. Rice-crusted pizzas are topped with marinated tofu or vegetables. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. (Reviewed Nov. 4, 1992)
Hobee's Restaurant, 67 Town and Country Village, Palo Alto, 327-4111, and 4224 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 856-6124
This homey chain restaurant is renowned for its breakfasts, and is probably the best family restaurant in town. The vast menu features a section of "light" foods and breakfast items that are served all day. Hobee's is known for its special hash brown potatoes, such as De Anza Browns, a huge portion of nicely browned potatoes smothered with cheese, salsa, guacamole and sour cream, and for its creative scrambles, omelets and homemade blueberry coffeecake. Lunch at Hobee's includes a wide selection of soups, salads and sandwiches, all in generous portions and hearty in style. Chicken and pasta specials are usually available at dinner. (Reviewed Jan. 2, 1991)
Homma's Brown Rice Sushi, 2363 Birch St., Palo Alto, 327-6118
As the name suggests, Homma's doesn't drape its slices of fish and vegetables over white rice, which lacks the high amounts of vitamins B and D of brown rice. For food and ambience, few places are as spare and economical as Homma's. It has three tables inside, four tables outside, five pieces of decorative wall art and no sushi bar. The presentation, too, lacks the studied fussiness of many sushi bars. Service is practically nonexistent. It is the vegetarian fare that sets Homma's apart from other sushi bars. Besides the usual cucumber, mushroom and avocado rolls, Homma's makes burdock root, mountain yam, gourd, asparagus, radish, plum and plum leaf sushi. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Monday-Saturday 5-9 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5-9:30 p.m. (Reviewed Sept. 30, 1994)
Iberia, 290 Ladera Country Shopping Center, Portola Valley, 854-1746
Iberia serves cuisine with all the macho flair you'd expect from a restaurant in Spain. Sauces come crunchy with almonds and dense with unusual combinations of spices. But there are elegant feminine touches in the pastry and dessert list. If you're used to California's "happy camper" style of service, you may find the brusque professionalism of Iberia's staff either antiseptic or intimidating. The garden is certainly one of the prettiest outdoor eating spots in our area. The food is expensive, but exquisite. Hours: Lunch from 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; for dinner from 5:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Sun.; and for brunch on Sun. from 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Reservations advised. (Reviewed Sept. 10, 1993)
Il Fornaio Cucina Italiana, 520 Cowper St., Palo Alto, 853-3888
Mirrored walls, a glamorous Italian bar and courtyard filled with flowers highlight this flashy and attractive Italian cafe and restaurant. With an over-full house to care for, dinner servers whisk by, intimidating diners into asking as little as possible. But the food lives up to the restaurant's tony reputation. Il Fornaio's big attraction any time of day is its breads. Each table gets a full basket of crisp bread sticks, salty rosemary rolls or whatever has just come out of the oven. An ever-changing menu keeps the kitchen staff from taking anything for granted. Always make a reservation. Hours: Monday-Thursday 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Friday 7 a.m.-midnight, Saturday 8 a.m-12 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m.-11 p.m. (Reviewed March 11, 1994)
India Palace, 236 Castro Street, Mountain View, 961-2858
Most local Indian restaurants list the same dishes on their menus. But at India Palace, spices are mixed with more finesse. At the other places, supposedly different dishes often taste like they were made with the same sauce. At Indian Palace, each dish is distinctively different. India Palace's tandoori appetizer ($6) gives you a good sample of spicy India barbecue. You get bits of peppery lamb sausage, tender chicken chunks and cubes of lamb. It all comes screaming hot on a metal platter. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner daily 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. (Reviewed Feb. 25, 1994)
Janta Indian Cuisine, 369 Lytton Avenue, Palo Alto, 462-5903
Janta calls the bluff of Indian restaurants that have gotten lazy. This tiny restaurant cooks everything from scratch. Even the lowly garbanzo bean is roasted before it's boiled. It's attention to detail that gives Janta's dishes their flavor highs. Janta's finesse with spices means dishes don't have to depend on chilis for flavor. One of the best mild offerings is shrimp biryani, an exotically-flavored rice pilaf studded with tender shrimp and cashew nuts ($11.95 dinner). Hours: Monday-Friday lunch buffet from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Tuesday-Saturday dinner from 5:30-10 p.m.; Sunday and Monday dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday brunch buffet noon-3 p.m. Lunch buffet is $6.49. Brunch buffet is $7.49. (Reviewed April 29, 1994)
Java Centrale, 299 California Ave., Palo Alto, 327-8100
This cafe successfully plays up the modern neighborhood coffeehouse theme without breaking much new ground. It combines a mellow atmosphere with an interesting range of sandwiches, soups, salads and, of course, coffee done any way you want. The clientele is a combination of young professionals who stream in and out of the nearby CalTrain station to seniors who come to hang out and play chess. The management keeps backgammon and checkers sets around, along with a several newspapers. Try the Creole ham sandwich ($5.50), served with artichoke hearts and spicy mustard. The java freezes--icy milkshake versions of cappuccino ($1.95), latte ($2.25) and mocha ($2.75)--are refreshing without being too sweet. Hours: 6 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 6 a.m.-midnight Friday, 8 a.m.-midnight Saturday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. (Reviewed April 26, 1996)
Jose's Caribbean Restaurant and Night Club, 2275 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 326-6522
Jose's is something of an institution and one of the few places on the Peninsula where you can dance to live reggae or rhythm and blues, sip fancy rum drinks and sample South American and Caribbean cuisine, from Cuban ropa vieja, to grilled alligator from New Orleans and jerk chicken from Jamaica. It's comfortable, friendly and a bit worn around the edges. It also attracts one of the most diverse clienteles on the Peninsula: preppies in khaki shorts, young men with dreadlocks, middle-aged suburban couples, neo-hippies in tie-dye. Servings are large. Lovers of fiery foods can try the chicken creole sausage ($8.95), grilled catfish with jerk seasoning ($13.50), Peruvian chicken ($10) and smoked barbecue baby back ribs ($13.50 for a half rack). Hours: Lunch served 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday. Dinner served 5-11 p.m. Monday-Friday and 5-10 p.m. Sunday. Live music starts at 9:30 p.m. Thursday-Saturday. Cover charge on some nights. (Reviewed April 5, 1996)
Kamei Japanese House, 240 Castro St. Mountain View, 964-6990
Kamei has a large menu that goes beyond the usual teriyaki, tempura and sushi, and is one of the few Japanese restaurants in the Bay Area that features "robata" cuisine, or Japan's version of barbecue. The combination dinners encourage trying some of this unfamiliar, but delicious cuisine. Besides the usual miso soup and small green salad, our meal consisted of a series of small plates put on the table individually. The first batch consisted of a small portion of nicely cooked salmon, a plate of tiny ribs and flat, black mushrooms in a slightly sweet, slightly sticky sauce. The robata style ("by the fireside") serves this kind of food well. The small portions cook quickly, preserving maximum freshness and taste. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri., noon-2:30 p.m. Sat., no lunch on Sun.; Dinner 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs. and Sun.; 5-11 p.m. Sat. (Reviewed April 28, 1995)
Lakeside Cafe, 3160 N. Shoreline Blvd. (by the lake at Shoreline Park), Mountain View, 965-1745
The cafe is bright and cheery, but the best place to sit is outside on the patio, next to the lake. Head chef Koetsu Akasaka, a classically trained chef, worked under Alice Waters and had a stint at Palo Alto's Empire Grill & Tap Room. The challenge at Lakeside is to have a menu that appeals to both the Silicon Valley workers who frequent the cafe for lunch and the families who visit Shoreline Park on weekends. Thus, you can order a cheeseburger or grilled eggplant on focaccia, peanut butter and jelly or pasta with rock shrimp and asparagus. It's eclectic, but it works. The lunch menu offers hot and cold sandwiches, salads, several pasta dishes and a daily pizza special. Weekday breakfast at the cafe is limited to bagels, muffins and other pastries, but on weekends your choices expand to include egg dishes, pancakes, waffles and granola. Hours: 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday (pastries 9-11 a.m., lunch 11 a.m.-4 p.m.); 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday (breakfast 9-11:30 a.m., lunch 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m., snacks 4-5 p.m.) (Reviewed Feb. 9, 1996)
Late for the Train, 150 Middlefield Road, Menlo Park, 321-6124
Practically an institution in these parts, this is the place to go for fresh, wholesome food that is extremely well-prepared and served in a comfortable, homey atmosphere that radiates food vibrations. A favorite for breakfast, it offers an imaginative array of omelets, including a simple steamed vegetable omelet with cheese that imparts a giant jolt of energy. If you don't like eggs, look for alternatives like blintzes, French toast, blueberry cornmeal pancakes or homemade granola. Breakfast is served from 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sat. and Sun. Dinner is from 5:30-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 5:30-9:30 p.m. Fri. and Sat. (Reviewed April 23, 1993)
Left at Albuquerque, 445 Emerson Ave., Palo Alto, 326-1011
Left at Albuquerque's concept can only be described as some kind of blend of West, Mex, Tex, Mex-Tex, West-Mex, Des-West (is desert food a genre yet?) and Cal. The result something akin to nouveau Southwest. They've got a great, bright decor that unabashedly mixes hubcabs with horse stuff, and a menu that doesn't see the irony in dishes like Tierra del Fuego Caesar salad and chili relleno tempura. Thanks to clever use of spinach, radish powder and corn powder, the tortillas come in vivid shades of green, yellow and orange--exactly the same colors as the walls and upholstery. Rice is green. Beans are black. And the chips, a mix of blue and orange, look as though they were arranged in the basket by a decorator. Great drinks; 88 kinds of tequila. Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed June 2, 1995)
Little Copenhagen, 2826 El Camino Real, Redwood City, 365-6616
In scrupulously clean surroundings, this authentic Scandinavian kitchen prepares the best in fresh fish, game in season and three versions of schnitzel. Expect lots of butter, cream and dill in stand-out sauces that accompany fish and chicken dishes. Salmon is a particular star here, as are house specials like Frikadeller, veal dumplings with red cabbage, or Lindsbof, made of ground beef, capers, onions and beets. Fresh flowers, white linen and Danish posters set the scene. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch Mon. through Fri., dinner seven days from 5:30-9 p.m. (Reviewed March 13, 1991)
Little India Restaurant, 2606 Broadway, Redwood City, 361-8737
Here, diners don't have to waste time perusing a menu. There isn't one--just a good, mixed-bag buffet that consists of whatever owner and chef Manoj Chopra feels like making that day. Staples you'll always find include basmati rice pillau, salad with cucumber and tomato, raita (spiced yogurt dressing), vegetable pakora (vegetable fritters), bapadum (pepper cracker) and an array of chutneys. All meals come with a generous basket of nan. Neither do people have to spend time calculating cost and tax. Only three numbers matter: $5.95, $5.99 and $7.95. At lunchtime, $5.99 buys everything. At dinnertime, $5.95 buys everything vegetarian while $7.95 buys everything. Hours: Lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; closed Sun. (Reviewed March 10, 1995)
Lisa's Tea Treasures, 1145 Merrill Street, Menlo Park, 326-8327
Lisa's is set in a Victorian building across from the Menlo Park train station, but it's a world away from the rush of daily commutes. This haven of civilized domesticity pulls you back to the days when ladies had entire afternoons to fill with leisurely chats. You won't be disappointed if you come here to play a role in an antique ritual, or simply visit quietly with a friend. But if you're really interested in food, you should know that many of the tiny sandwiches, scones and the like are not prepared in-house. The menu at Lisa's lists 18 combinations of tea and edibles ($5.50-$14): an Irish-style spread called "Her Majesty's Trust," a Indian combination called "The Rajah's Prize" and so forth. Hours: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. daily (Reviewed Feb. 3, 1995)
Los Altos Bar & Grill, 169 Main St., Los Altos, 948-4332
In a quiet and elegant setting, the Los Altos Bar & Grill presents a challenging and unique menu with style and agility. Dinner might feature steamed clams with ginger, garlic, fresh tomato and white wine, preceded by a curried carrot soup that is a stand out. This kitchen tackles complex dishes and carries them out with great success, from the catfish with jalapeno cream and corn relish to the medallions of venison with chanterelle mushrooms and a lingonberry demi-glace. Lunch includes a Black Angus burger and a range of sandwiches. Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. for lunch, dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m. weekdays and until 11 p.m. weekends. (Reviewed Jan. 30, 1990)
Lutticken's at the Stanford Gold Course, 198 Junipero Serra Blvd., Stanford, 323-8359
Follow the arrow on the discreet brown sign at the corner of Junipero Serra and Campus Drive West. You'll find rolling green hills, a hawk's-nest view of Hoover Tower and hearty deli food at unpretentious prices. The best-kept secret in town may be that the Clubhouse Cafe at Stanford's golf course is open to the public. Look for comfort food at the Clubhouse Cafe, not fancy cuisine. There are great versions of all the old drugstore favorites, like a BLT with plenty of crunchy bacon and thick slices of tomato ($4.50). At breakfast, you can get an egg, toast and hash browns for $2.75. Hours: Closed Mondays. Open Tuesday-Sunday 6 a.m.-6 p.m.; breakfast until 10:30 a.m., lunch until 2:30 p.m., snacks all day long. (Reviewed Jan. 28, 1994)
Mac's American Grill, 325 Main St., Los Altos, 941-0234
After more than 50 years of operation, Mac's American Grill (formerly Mac's Tea Room) has certainly developed its own niche. This old-style, old boy dining room takes patrons back to the days of meat and potatoes. Standard fare at the well-loved steakhouse includes great slabs of perfectly cooked prime rib, porterhouse steaks and steak sandwiches, along with generous hamburgers. House pastas are mundane and sometimes overcooked, but the cheesecake is great. Lunch specials will remind you of mom's cooking with meatloaf and beef burgundy to rival home. Sit in comfortable booths or enjoy one of the oldest and best bars in the area. Open lunch: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner: Mon.-Sat. 5:30-9:30 p.m., Sun. 5-8:30 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 17, 1997)
MacArthur Park, 27 University Ave., Palo Alto, 321-9990
This classic American restaurant features a core menu that hasn't changed for years--and there's no reason to do it now. Baby back ribs remain a staple, served with a pile of cole slaw and crisp fries. The restaurant also features tasty regional fare, an extensive wine list, good desserts, and attractive outdoor seating. MacArthur Park is located in a landmark structure designed by architect Julia Morgan. Open Mon.-Fri. 5:30 -10:30 p.m.; Sat. and Sun., 5-10 p.m.; Sun brunch, 10 a.m.-2p.m.; Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (Reviewed Oct. 18, 1996.)
Mandarin Classic, 397 Main Street, Los Altos, 948-8996
For just slightly more than the average Chinese take out joint, visitors get to enjoy an elegant setting and dine on some of the best Chinese food the Peninsula has to offer. Lunch is an ideal time to try this large downtown Los Altos restaurant, as their luncheon specials are among the best bargains of the Bay Area. For $5.25 to $5.95, choose from 19 main courses, each served with the soup of the day, chicken salad, fried or steamed rice, tea and fresh fruit. Service is attentive. Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m.; Fri. 11:30 a.m.- 3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Sat. noon-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Sun. 5-9:30 p.m. (Reviewed July 22, 1994)
The Mandarin Gourmet, 420 Ramona St., Palo Alto, 328-8898
Distinctive Chinese cuisine is the focus of this sophisticated dining room. While dishes are on the expensive side, the quality and presentation justify the price. Prawns with fresh asparagus, crispy eggplant and a fresh chicken salad are all stand out choices. Lunch specials include egg roll, hot and sour soup and crunchy fried won ton skins along with rice and an entree--a good deal for $6-8. The atmosphere is elegant, with business crowd at lunch, a little more dressy in the evening. Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner 5-10 p.m. seven days a week. (Reviewed Oct. 11, 1996)
Mango Cafe, 435 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, 325-3229
Whatever you do, make sure you order one of Mango Cafe's giant smoothies. You're going to need it. Because a town in which the diners' credo seems to be "mo pasta, mo betta" the Mango Cafe is countering, as expressed on one waiter's T-shirt, with "mo hotta, mo betta." Even if you don't like hot food, it's still good stuff. There are plenty of mild dishes on the menu. The cuisine at the Mango Cafe is Caribbean, more specifically that of Trinidad and Tobago. This is a polyglot culture, with strong African, East Indian and Spanish influences. These influences show up on the menu in the form of curries, sweet potato dishes and coconut milk sauces. For atmosphere, the Mango Cafe moves to a reggae beat: not fast, just kind of an easy groove. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; 6-9 p.m. (Reviewed May 5, 1995)
Marco Pollo (To Go), 3536 Alameda de las Pulgas, No. 4, Menlo Park, 854-8244
Tucked into a strip mall on the Alameda in west Menlo Park, Marco Pollo has the streamlined feel of a franchise. But it's not. Owner Bob Dulik has targeted a narrow niche in top-quality take-out. There are a few Formica-topped tables at Marco Pollo. But you're better off eating this finger-licking food at home. When you order a whole chicken, it comes in a domed container that's microwave-safe. Along with quarter, half and whole chickens ($3.25, $4.75, $9), there are half and full slabs of ribs ($6.50, $13). Two dollars extra gets you an eight-ounce side dish, such as creamed spinach or oven-cooked potatoes. Hours: 4-8 p.m. daily, with lunch hours coming in early 1994 (Reviewed Dec. 17, 1993)
Max's Opera Cafe, 711 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, 323-6364
This wildly popular cafe and bar serves up enormous portions at modest prices. A three-inch high chicken liver on rye and homemade chicken soup top the list of comfort food straight from a New York deli. Huge salads laden with slivers of tender chicken breast, bacon, mushrooms and every vegetable imaginable crowd one side of the lengthy menu. Entrees include pasta, roasted chicken and burgers of every description. Desserts are calorie-heavy but worth it--a fudge brownie served warm with vanilla ice cream and hot fudge sauce is among the best. Opera-singing waiters and waitresses and a boisterous crowd can make for noisy evenings. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. to Thurs., until 11 p.m. Fri. and Sat. nights. (Reviewed Jan. 1, 1992)
Mediterranean Bistro, 1077 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 321-3300
Owner-chef Spyro Zissos is a mature talent who has cooked his way around the Mediterranean, to say nothing of San Francisco and the Peninsula. Zissos is Greek by birth. That accounts for the crisp spanakopita and tiropita on his appetizer menu, as well as pastitsio and moussaka on his entree list. He got his formal education at a French culinary academy in Egypt. But his knowledge of classic cuisine didn't spoil his appetite for local specialties such as kofta, or broiled marinated ground lamb. Two apprenticeships in Italy defined Zyssos's taste in the classic dishes of that country. Don't be surprised to find pollo marsala and fettuccini primavera on his menu alongside humus or cucumber and yogurt served with fresh mint. Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Closed Monday. (Reviewed June 9, 1995)
Menlo Java & Juice Bar, 1083 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 328-2407
Menlo Java & Juice shares a tiny space with a Mexican restaurant. There's not much room for relaxed dining, but the eatery has a small menu full of bargains. The entrees are all under $4.25. There's a thick vegetarian torta flavored with goat cheese, and full of eggplant, spinach, egg, and red peppers. Pasta is another specialty of the house. Sandwiches are all under $3. The juice drinks and smoothies are divine. Big, gooey homemade desserts make the list of good, fresh food. Since Menlo Java and Juice is open until 11 every night except Sunday, it's a great place to go after the movies for ice-cream-topped treats. Hours: 8 a.m.- 11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday (Reviewed March 3, 1995)
Mikado, 161 Main St., Los Altos, 917-8388
Mikado is a serene and comfortable Japanese restaurant with a row of roomy booths, two tatami rooms and stalks of bamboo climbing up walls painted a deep watermelon red. Some waitresses wear kimonos. In addition to a full sushi bar, the causually elegant Mikado also serves a tantalizing array of Japanese cusine, from the tried-and-true teriyaki dishes to some more exotic delights: ika natto (squid with fermented soybeans) ($6.30), shishamo (broiled Japanese lake smelt) ($3.80) and maguro mugitoro yamakake (tuna with grated mountain potato) ($6.50). Although there are plenty of items on the menu to sway your attention away from the large and very fresh sushi selection, sushi is the specialty here. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Closed Monday. (Reviewed Jan. 26, 1996)
Mike's Cafe Etc., 2680 Middlefield, Palo Alto, 473-6453
Mike's Cafe Etc. is as comfy as an old-fashioned coffee shop, as trendy as any nuova trattoria. When Mike Wallau moved into the little cafe that was Country Fare, he may have fauxed the walls. But he kept the genuine neighborly feeling of the place. Mothers and toddlers stroll in for juice and scones on the weekends. Amateur authors dawdle over cappuccino while scribbling journal entries. Midtown's shirt-sleeved politicos huddle over late breakfasts. The restaurant turns out Italian classics like linguini with prawns ($11), veal scaloppini ($12), and lasagna smothered in rich bechamel sauce ($10), as well as American favorites like Cobb salad ($8) and shrimp Louie ($9). Service is fast and friendly. For breakfast, you can get omelets or scrambles ($6.25-$7), French toast and pancakes ($4.25-$6) or a bowl of granola ($2.75). Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Sat. and Sun. (Reviewed July 28, 1995)
Minokichi Japanese Buffet, 150 University Ave., Palo Alto, 324-9536
In addition to row upon pretty row of ebi, tekka, kappa, uni, saba and so forth, Minokichi offers a few other items that just might divert your attention from the help-yourself, all-you-can-eat sushi bar: steamed crab legs, lobster (weekend dinners only), four kinds of soup, salad, oysters on the half shell, mussels, chicken teriyaki, baked fish, stir-fry, shrimp cocktail, prime rib (dinner only). Plate after plate for $7.95 at lunch ($8.95 on Saturday and Sunday) and $12.95 at dinner ($15.95 Friday through Sunday). Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily; dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday (Reviewed March 4, 1994)
La Morenita, 800 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 329-1727
With a menu based on the regional cooking of Michoacan, La Morenita ("the little brown girl") brings a new culinary element to a city that has become top-heavy with Italian and bottom-heavy with burrito joints. Here you find good, plain food, simply served. Anything with green sauce is worth ordering. The carne asada is a good choice. The thin strip of steak filet is grilled, then smothered with green sauce. Most dinners come with rice, beans, tortillas, slices of lime and guacamole. They also have hamburgers, BLT's, sandwiches and fries. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat. 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 9 a.m.-9 p.m. (Reviewed July 29, 1994)
Miyake, 140 University Ave., Palo Alto, 323-9449
Now located two blocks down the street from its tiny original location, the new Miyake is tony and huge. Brass light fixtures throw a soft light around the room, white walls add a touch of class. But leave it to Miyake to impart a carnival atmosphere anyway: rainbow-colored rotating lights, wavy glass with aqua lighting under the sushi bar, and the same yelling chefs, yelling waiters, blaring music, loud uniforms, circulating sushi boats and hoards of college students. Miyake has a dizzying array of options, including traditional cooked Japanese dishes. You'll probably never be able to try all the different rolls the restaurant makes. Ultra-fussy sushi buffs might sniff at certain aspects of Miyake. The chicken teriyaki and unagi can get cool after a few trips around the boats and purists will probably never accept imitation crab. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed March 29, 1996)
NM Cafe, Neiman Marcus, 400 Stanford Shopping Center, 329-3300
This quietly elegant restaurant on the third floor welcomes anyone who is tired of noisy eateries and slapdash service. The NM Cafe, formerly called "The Restaurant," is only open for lunch, serving light food with fancy extras reminiscent of the 1950s. Before you can whisk your flamingo-pink napkin into your lap, a tiny cup of hot bouillon appears at your place. The refreshing freebie is part of Neiman-Marcus' time-honored formula for reviving shoppers. For special times like Valentine's Day and Mother's Day, there are menus made for the occasion. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. (Reviewed March 26, 1993)
Noah's Bagels, 278 University Ave., Palo Alto, 473-0751
Noah Alper knows there's a lot of showbiz in the food biz. That's why he sells a hefty dose of nostalgia along with his steamed bagels. A Noah's shop is a slick combination of schmaltz and kitsch dear to the heart of any former New Yorker. When it comes to flavors, Noah's is pretty strait-laced. Everything is kosher. There are no bagels of the month in gimmicky flavors like pesto-pine nut or pumpkin. Hours: Monday-Thursday 7 a.m.-7 p.m., Friday 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Saturday 7:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday 7:30 a.m.-5 p.m. (Reviewed Oct. 15, 1993)
Nola, 535 Ramona St., Palo Alto, 328-2722
Nola is made up of a warren of little rooms full of pleasant visual surprises. The eye-popping mustard, purple and turquoise walls are decorated with masks and artifacts that just smack of Voodoo Country, including several terrific folk paintings that the owners snapped up on a shopping trek to New Orleans. The heart of the restaurant is the rustic, open-to-the-sky patio, which is framed by second-story balconies. To add to the entertaining din, live bands perform from one of the balconies on some nights. Nola (it stands for New Orleans, LA) dishes out an interesting mix of Cajun, Creole, Caribbean and Southwestern fare. Instead of presenting the spicy standards that are traditionally associated with New Orleans menus, such as etouffee, jambalaya and gumbo, Nola serves an eclectic and creative cross-section of dishes that certainly qualify as "fusion" cuisine. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 5:30-11 p.m. and Sunday 5:30-9 p.m. (Reviewed Aug. 30, 1996)
Nouveau Trattoria, 541 Bryant St., Palo Alto, 327-0132
Owner and chef Annie Nunan prepares French dishes alongside Nick Ortega, the Trattoria's longtime chef at this reincarnation of the old Trattoria Romana. The mood is classy, but still casual, with live jazz music on some nights. Servers don't know whether you'll be dining French or Italian style, so they bring out butter and olive oil to go with your bread. The wine list is bicultural, too. Rich sauces are the hallmark of the French specialties; the onion soup topped with nutty Gruyere is a good bet. There are also a number of fine pasta dishes, as well as pizza. Family-style Basque dinners ($15.50) on Wednesday and Thursday evenings. Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5:30-10 p.m. (Reviewed April 2, 1993)
N.Y. Pizza, 325 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, 328-0351
N.Y. Pizza serves up a fresh, intense pie concocted from your choices of 26 toppings. Or choose from the house combos like taco, Hawaiian or broccoli and garlic. The crust and style are basic--a good showcase for those who decide to go traditional or be adventurous. Two standouts are eggplant, feta cheese and black olive and a rich, generously topped vegetarian. Prices range from $1.99 for a mini-pizza through $6.40 for a small, 12 inch, to $23 for party size at 20 inches. Salad bar and a few sidewalk tables are the only additions to this 12-table shop. Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 10 a.m.-11p.m., Sun. noon to 10 p.m. (Reviewed July 31, 1991)
Ocean Garden Dim Sum & Seafood Restaurant, 701 El Camino Real, Redwood City, 368-8288
If you've never eaten dim sum, Ocean Garden is an excellent place to start your adventure. Come on a weekday, when fewer tables order dim sum and servers bring trays straight from the kitchen to your table. Servers are eager to show what's hidden under the lids of their miniature steamer baskets and metal containers. While novices will enjoy the patient attention they get from servers on weekdays, dim sum veterans will want to wait for weekends. Ocean Garden's total repertoire includes 42 different treasures. You'll find a wider variety and more culinary flair on weekends. Hours: Dim sum 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, dinner all week 3-9:30 p.m. (Reviewed Feb. 17, 1995)
Ocean Seafood, 3295 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 493-8233
Frozen fish is banned from the kitchen at this nautically-themed restaurant with formal napery and mismatched furnishings. Yet owner Sam Tachavirat (who also own's Siam Garden in Menlo Park) knows that freshness is not all, especially when your restaurant is within casting distance of Palo Alto's ever-thriving Fish Market. What sets Ocean Seafood apart is a reliance on classical techniques and its vaguely upscale ambience. The misspelled menu needs some revision, and the kitchen's attempts at multicultural "fusion" cuisine should be labeled as such. Only the most stubborn carnivores will be sidetracked by the limited selection of steaks, chicken and lunchtime burgers. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Monday-Saturday 5-10 p.m., Sunday 5-9:30 p.m. (Reviewed Feb. 2, 1996)
Olive Garden, 2515 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 326-5673
This branch of a well-run nationwide chain is not the place for your next romantic, candle-lit rendezvous. Large portions, reasonable prices and a casual atmosphere attract the family crowd. Servers are quick, courteous and smiling. Children get their own menu, platters piled high with their choice of spaghetti or lasagna ($3.95-$4.95). It will take some time to read the menu, even though it's divided into easily distinguishable categories. Think twice about ordering a starter, though. Every main course includes unlimited soup or salad, and also a side dish of steamed vegetables or a pasta dish. Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Thur., 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Reviewed May 21, 1993)
Osteria, 247 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, 328-5700
There always seems to be a crowd of people waiting to get into Osteria, and reservations at dinner are a must. The bustling dining room captures the feel of a small neighborhood trattoria in Florence. Don't come to Osteria for Tuscan cooking--even though that's what their sign says. Rather than the simple and elegant fare associated with the Tuscan kitchen, the menu features the fare found in thousands of American "Italian" restaurants: veal scaloppine, carpaccio, prosciutto with melon and fettuccine Alfredo. Generally, everything is well-prepared, tasty, generous in portion and reasonably priced. A short wine list. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun. (Reviewed May 14, 1993)
Palermo Rotisserie, 452 University Ave., Palo Alto, 321-9908
You could go someplace fancier, or fussier, or more chichi, but most of the time you wouldn't want to. There is nothing trendy about Palermo: no pumpkin-ricotta cannoli, no linguini with Thai chicken, no morel-stuffed ravioli. One deep breath in says it all: garlic, basil, red wine, parmesan, yeast, tomatoes, olive oil. The tiny restaurant, with 24 tables set inches apart, has a casual, cluttered feeling. There are brightly-colored posters Italy on the walls and cheerful, hand-painted crockery overhead. At night, the wood-fire oven filled with roasting chickens blazes at the back of the restaurant, casting a warm glow over the room. There's a great all-you-can-eat lunch buffet for $8.95. Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed Feb. 23, 1996)
Palo Alto Joe's, 3750 Fabian Way, Palo Alto, 493-3101
The name conjures up images of big bowls of minestrone and piles of spaghetti crowned with meatballs. While such favorites still have a place on this restaurant's menu, chef Rick Vargas is striving to grow beyond the other "basic North Beach Italian" dishes that have been the tradition at Joe's: oven-roasted king salmon with sun-dried tomato pesto, Sicilian olives and basil ($13.95), baked polenta lasagne ($4.95) and more. The restaurant even has its own garden behind the restaurant, producing everything from tomatoes to haricots verts. Hours: Mon. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Tues-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat. 5-10 p.m.; Sun. 5-9 p.m. (Sept. 2, 1994)
Palo Alto Sol, 408 California Ave., Palo Alto, 328-8840
This funky, yet charming restaurant features a hand-written, two-sided monster of a menu, and is owned by Hector and Helena Sol, who branched off from another family enterprise, La Fiesta on Villa Street in Mountain View. With brightly painted wooden fish hanging from the ceiling and works by local artists decorating the walls, Palo Alto Sol, which specializes in cuisine from around the city of Pueblo in south-central Mexico, comes off as part goofy, part funky, part whimsical. There's a rough edge to the decor--mismatched chairs, a couple of wobbly tables--but the overall effect somehow works. The hard-to-find entrees include Camarones Diabla ($8.95), jumbo shrimp sauteed in a butter-garlic-wine sauce, and seasoned with chopped tomatoes and dried chilies. Try the mole! Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner 5-9 p.m.; closed Sundays. (Reviewed Jan. 7, 1994)
Pazzo, 2616 Broadway, Redwood City, 367-1607
Pazzo is full of unexpected fun and flourish. Take the signature dish, spaghettini Pazzo, an explosion of improbable flavors. Rock shrimp and understated saffron cream sauce are teamed with raucous garlic and pancetta bacon bits. Everything is tossed into a combination of green and white spaghetti, so that the dish looks as unusual as it tastes ($9.75). Pizza also comes in mouth-startling versions. The gamberi e arugula combines big prawns with aged goat cheese, fresh sliced tomatoes and tart arugula greens ($9). The restaurant's conical wood burning oven is the focal point of the huge, open room. Hours: Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner Mon.-Sat. 5:30-10 p.m.; closed Sunday. (Reviewed July 15, 1994)
Le Petit Bistro, 1405 El Camino Real, Mountain View, 964-3321
This intimate, 16-table restaurant emphasizes impeccably prepared food rather than fantasy decor or froufrou flavors. There are fresh flowers on tables covered by peach cloths. Staff members take care of every need without presuming to introduce themselves, much less interrupt conversation. Chef Jean Michel's specialty is light but classic French cuisine. After all the rowdy experimentation done in the name of California cuisine, his quiet marvels are a palate-soothing revelation. The menu is small but carefully chosen. For starters there are salads ($3.50-$5), Prince Edward Island mussels steamed with garlic ($7), and duck mousse with crunchy crudites ($5). You may find a special such as escargot ($7). And there is always a soup du jour. Entrees range in price from $11 for pasta to $19 for medallions of beef with peppercorn sauce. Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.; Tues.-Sat. 5:30-10 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday. (Reviewed Oct. 6, 1995)
Peking Duck, 2310 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 856-3338
Inside this tiny and quiet Chinese restaurant, diners will find linen-set tables and attentive service along with great duck dishes, the house specialty. Grease-free egg rolls, crispy-skinned Peking duck and spicy eggplant all shine. An 11-page menu offers something for almost everyone, including soups and noodle dishes that can all be served vegetarian. Open every day from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Peking Duck is worth a visit. (Reviewed May 20, 1992)
Pho To Chau, 853 Villa St., Mountain View, 961-8069
At Pho To Chau in Mountain View, diners can choose from among 17 entrees and still only get one thing: soup. This is a place for the food-minded, more specifically for the soup-minded. Because apart from soup, not much else goes on here. The scruffy little hole-in-the-wall has no atmosphere to speak of, no fastidious service to recommend and no weighty tome of a menu to read. The decor is a study in plastic. Pho To Chau means Vietnamese beef noodle soup, which is a bit like calling a hamburger joint Beef Patty With Bun. But no one goes to Pho To Chau for romance or a catchy name. They go for the delicious, huge servings of pho. (pronounced furr). Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Jan. 14, 1994)
Piccolo Mondo,
What appeals about this restaurant is not just the food, which authentically reproduces the flavors of (mainly Northern) Italian regional cooking, but the unerringly gracious service. The waiters are courteous, practical and unobtrusive in an intimate, old-style setting. The food is traditional Italian, no trendy stuff, and the pastas are delicious. Most of the entrees hover in the $8 to $15 range and appetizers and salads from $4 to $7. The most expensive entree on the dinner menu is the excellent roasted rack of lamb ($21). The wine selection is extensive and the desserts are excellent. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat. (Reviewed Nov. 8, 1996)
Pizz'a Chicago,
Stepping into this pizzeria is like entering a wacky fantasy of Chicago. There are street signs from famous corners of the city, a mural of the "El," and a rooftop perch complete with a line of laundry that features Chicago Bulls T-shirts. Red-and-white checked vinyl tablecloths and paper napkins make this a kid-friendly restaurant. Part of the fun here is reading the menu. Sassy jibes at Chicago's rich and famous are just as jazzy as the pizzas they describe. The Jane Byrne, for instance, is a tart and tangy combination of spicy tomato sauce topped with bits of dried apricot, bacon, and sauteed red onion rings. Why name this daring combination for the first female mayor of the city? "She was very much into pork-barrel politics," according to the menu. Great salads and friendly service. Hours: Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri and Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (Reviewed July 14., 1995)
PolanDeli, 2399 Broadway, Redwood City, 568-1809
This is a small, family-owned and operated place with a counter and a few tables. PolanDeli could easily be mistaken for a sandwich shop (there is a listing of terrific sandwiches), if it were not for the heavenly smells that identify serious cooking. Owners Richard and Margaret Marona have a masterful touch with the goulash ($4.50), the dish largely responsible for the wonderful aroma that fills the place. Look for smoked salmon sandwiches, stuffed cabbage, tripe soup and blood sausage, among more accessible Eastern European fare. Hours: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat. (Reviewed April 21, 1995)
Pollo's, 543 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 969-8244
Sun-colored walls and splashy tiles are a nice accent to the traditional Mexican music blaring into the big, open room and spilling onto the patio. The only two drawbacks are the rather limited menu and the paper lining in the plastic baskets that serve as plates. A steamy burrito can waterlog one of these sheets in minutes. Pollo's El Grande burrito ($3.80) (sans paper) gets rave reviews. The spit-roasted birds are mellow and delicious. One warning: Patrons line up in droves during lunch, so hearing your number being called and picking up the right order can be an exercise in frustration. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Thur., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Reviewed June 11, 1993)
Pommard Deli and Cafe, 3163 Middlefield Road, Palo Alto, 857-9339
With its rustic exterior, sunken tree-shaded patio, large windows and blue trim, Pommard captures a certain "country French" charm. The deli's chef, whose roots are Italian, is encouraged to experiment with regional interpretations of foods, including Mexican, Asian and even Persian touches in traditional deli dishes. Examples of this include a Mexican cheddar meatloaf offered with a green salad for $5.25 and the Hunan chicken pasta salad at $2.50 per half-pint. Pommard's oversized display case showcases large platters and bowls of the numerous interesting dishes the deli produces fresh daily. Extensive catering services. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sat. and Sun. 9 a.m.-4 p.m. (Reviewed Oct. 14, 1994)
Portola Park Restaurant, 884 Portola Road, Portola Valley, 529-9007
You can ask for an outdoor table at Portola Park Restaurant and contemplate one of nature's giant wonders while sipping a fine wine, and waiting for your crab quesadilla to arrive. This cafe in the redwoods is a great place to go when you're in the mood for something simple, elegant and without the fuss. The clean lines of a stainless steel kitchen rise toward the open beam ceilings and contrast with the warm woody feel of the place. Dress is casual. The menu defies easy classification. With items like pizza Margheritta, penne rigate, angel hair pasta with wild mushrooms, fresh tomato, and pine nuts, Italian would seem to be the right label. Dishes like crab and shrimp Louise and grilled lemon rosemary salmon darns say California cuisine. But then there are items like Japanese soba noodles with rock shrimp and Dungeness crab quesadillas with salsa. Chef Brad Kellering, who was trained in classical French cooking but emphasizes the international, calls it New American Cuisine. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tue.-Fri.; brunch 10:30-2:30 Sun.; dinner 5-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., 5-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. (Reviewed Aug. 2, 1996)
Pot au Feu, 1149 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 322-4343
Pot au Feu is an exceptionally cozy and quiet French restaurant, a rarity in these days of chic hustle-bustle. If you eat up quaint decor, you'll feel totally satiated after an evening here. For those who forget their bifocals, there's a spare pair of reading specs to borrow from the stuffed bear near the entrance. The service here suits the decor. It's in no hurry to impress. The light, creative flavor combinations of California cuisine hasn't penetrated the dark interior of this restaurant. Dishes starring red meat and rich sauces are still the stars. Quail stuffed with shiitake mushrooms and apples in cognac truffle sauce is a highlight. Hours: Dinner only (5:30-9:30 p.m.); Closed Mondays. (Reviewed April 15, 1994)
Q Cafe Billiards, 529 Alma St., Palo Alto, 322-3311
One might think of a "pool hall" as a place with cigarette smoke, televised sports, dirty mirrors and mediocre beer. It is doubtful, however, that such a venue would wash in Palo Alto. Enter Q Cafe Billiards. The 6,000-square-foot restaurant is a serious contributor to Palo Alto's nightlife. The TV is tuned to sports, but don't expect smoke, the smell of stale beer, dirty mirrors or scruffy-looking men at Q Cafe. Most of the men (and women) are clean cut collegiate types. The mirrors are spotless, the beer is upscale and smoking is out. The huge room is equipped with 12 tournament-sized, Olhausen tables. The food is good enough for what it is--fuel for pool: fried calamari with spicy tomato and garlic-lime dip, burgers, french fries, salads, sandwiches, firecracker shrimp, gourmet pizzas. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. daily. (Reviewed June 30, 1995)
Ramona's, 541 Ramona St., Palo Alto, 326-2220
The menu features a handful of appetizers, some of the most interesting pizza topping possibilities this side of the Mississippi, sandwiches and various pasta dishes. The Ranchero ($12.25 small, $15.75 medium, $19.25 large), is a combination of sweet corn, black olives, green onions, linguica, tomato slices, garlic and mozzarella. And they use ranch dressing instead of tomato sauce! If you aren't up for a full pizza, you can order a slice with any single topping; a trip to the well-stocked salad bar or a cup of soup; and a glass of wine, beer or a soft drink for $7.25. Hours: Lunch: Monday-Saturday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., Sunday 4-10 p.m.; dinner: Monday-Wednesday 5-10 p.m., Thursday-Saturday 5-11 p.m. (Reviewed Dec. 24, 1993)
Rangoon, 565 Bryant St., Palo Alto, 325-8146
Most of us have never sampled Burmese food, a gentle combination of Chinese and Thai flavors well represented at this charmingly informal downtown restaurant. Rangoon serves up a delightful chicken salad, chock full of tender breast slivers coated in crunchy peanuts, thin crispy noodles and a well balanced sesame-soy dressing. Vegetable and bean curd dishes are delicately seasoned, not overcooked. Soups range from the mundane but well executed won ton to an unusual black pepper and shrimp in clear broth. Garlic chicken and moo shu dishes are other good choices. Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and dinner Mon. to Thurs. 5-9:30 p.m. Fri. and Sat. hours are 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed June 3, 1992)
Red Lobster, 4090 El Camino Real, Los Altos, 949-4945
There's no getting around the fact that Red Lobster is a franchise. The maritime art on the walls has that "mass produced" look and the Shrimp Feast you order will taste exactly like the Shrimp Feast you had at the Red Lobster in Chicago or Milpitas. But there's a reason for all this conformity. The Red Lobster concept works. From the gigantic, family-oriented menu, to the friendly service, to all those choices you get with each entree: Caesar salad, tossed green or coleslaw? Baked potato, rice, french fries or broccoli? Plus, all you can eat of the delicious hot cheese-garlic rolls. Hours: Mon.-Thur. and Sun. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (Reviewed July 30, 1993)
The Red Pepper, 4125 El Camino Way, Palo Alto, 493-7093
Not many Palo Alto restaurants can boast of serving customers for 30 years, but The Red Pepper has been dishing up traditional enchiladas and refried beans since 1965. The stresses of the work week lose their urgency amidst the aroma of corn tortillas and the pools of dim light. he loud kitchen, complete with clanging dishes and roaring blenders, can either annoy or add to the sense of being guests in a Mexican home. Despite the name of the restaurant, The Red Pepper's offerings, especially the guacamole and salsa, will seem mild for those who crave tongue-searing tastes. As for vegetarians, cheese enchiladas and bean burritos are pretty much the only options. The portions are large enough to provide leftovers for the next day, and the cheese, beans, meat and guacamole served with each meal will leave you feeling more than full. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5-9:30 daily (Reviewed Dec. 15, 1995)
The Redwood Cafe & Spice Company, 1020 Main Street, Redwood City, 366-1498
Breakfast here is like starting your day at a cozy Bed and Breakfast. Housed in an old Victorian with creaking floors, the cafe has three charming dining rooms. The morning menu offers dishes that are as scrumptious as anything you'll find at a romantic inn and also serves delicious lunches. Weekday breakfasts bring in lots of business types in suits as well as deal-makers in jeans. This place can turn a fried egg sandwich ($3.75) into a gourmet treat. The chunky cinnamon applesauce is homemade. And the Swedish oatmeal pancakes are tender, yet sightly chewy, thanks to oats. There's also a weekend brunch ($8.50 adults, $6 children). Hours: Tuesday-Friday: breakfast 7 a.m.-11 a.m., lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday: brunch 8 a.m.-2 p.m. (Reviewed June 17, 1994)
Ridgeside Cafe, Ladera Shopping Center, Alpine Road, Portola Valley, 854-4166
Even the drive to Ridgeside Cafe in woodsy Portola Valley is relaxing. Once there, diners can enjoy a light meal on the outdoor patio or eat inside the brightly remodeled dining room. The menu is simple but creative, featuring specials like trout garnished with bacon, accompanied by garlic potatoes, or tortilla soup--a rich, spicy broth studded with chicken and vegetables. Seasoned crab cakes and chicken Caesar are other specials to watch for. Conventional desserts round out a moderately priced menu. Breakfast and lunch are traditional with a twist. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for lunch. Dinner Tues. to Sat. 5-9 p.m., Sat. and Sun. brunch 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Rojoz Gourmet Wraps, 60 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, 324-9727
This is another restaurant dedicated to the ubiquitous "wrap." One look at the menu and you're likely to forget any preconceived notions you might have about rice and beans. Instead, an array of gourmet ingredients from pesto, Spanish olives and Roma tomatoes to teriyaki sauce, pineapple and sugar peas tumbles off the page. Rojoz Gourmet Wraps is very '90s. It's quick. It's inexpensive ($5-$6). There are a few salads on the menu, vegetarian wraps galore and even a little room for the humble burrito under a snappier name, of course. It's a fast-food-style place, though the food is made to order. Rojoz is part of a nine-restaurant chain. It's owned by the people who brought you Rockin' Tacos. Open weekdays 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fri. and Sat. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 10, 1996)
Scott's Seafood Bar & Grill, 2300 East Bayshore Road, Palo Alto, 856-1046
At Scott's, most dishes hover around $16, with Australian lobster tails topping off the list at $25.50. Oh, sure, there are burgers for $7.50 and salads for $5.75, but why bother? What you buy at Scott's is fish. What you pay for is freshness. The light, golden crust on their grilled rainbow trout ($13) explains how the oft-ruined dish became such a menu staple. And their "blackened" rock cod ($13) is not so utterly innovative that you can't taste the moist, white fish under the fine dusting of tangy spices. Hours: Monday 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Tuesday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Saturday 5-9:30 p.m., Sunday 5-9 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 21, 1994)
Senor Taco Taqueria, 3636 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 493-8757
The old Senor Taco stand in Barron Park had all the ambiance of dining on the freeway. Outdoor tables were so close to El Camino you could feel the suction from cars whizzing by. Now, Senor Taco is downright spiffy. The clean, well-lighted place for tacos has plants, an attractive tile counter and murals. But it still has the same wonderful menu of burritos, tacos, snacks (nachos and taquitos) and platters (enchiladas, chile rellenos, tamales and grilled meats). If you never stray from the rice-and-bean, carne asada or chicken burrito format, you'll never understand why the place has such a following. A rice-and-bean burrito for $3.25 from Senor Taco doesn't taste all that different from a rice-and-bean burrito from a lesser restaurant for $1.89. To understand the Senor Taco fixation, you need to order the more unusual dishes: the Oaxacan chicken burrito, the Chiapas-style tamal, the calabaza burrito, the grilled meat platter. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Oct. 13, 1995)
Siam Royal, 338 University Ave., Palo Alto, 329-8129
Siam Royal offers an alternative perspective on Thai cuisine--milder than expected, but smooth, rich and distinctly sweet. The appetizer Combination Plate ($6.95) is a nice way to get a sampling of various specialties. The Fried Tofu, deep-fried to an amazingly delicate, fluffy consistency, is delicious--even if you aren't a tofu fan. The soups are pleasant but not outstanding. Tom Yum Goong (Lime Prawn Soup, $5.95) is a clear broth with prawns and mushrooms; Gai Tom Kah (Chicken Coconut Soup, $5.25) features chicken and mushrooms in a rich coconut milk base. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-9:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed Nov. 12, 1993)
Smart Alex, 4546 El Camino Real, Village Court, Inner Circle, Los Altos 949-4737
Smart Alex's kitchen spurns chemical additives and high-cholesterol items, but even die-hard meat-and-potatoes fans will find its poultry- and vegetable-based fare highly satisfying. This is a casual place, yet sparkling clean and notable for fast, efficient service. You make your food selections from the board-menu, then pay in advance at the cash register. Of the two-dozen entree choices, nine feature free-range poultry and the rest are vegetarian. The friendly, unfussy way in which the staff cater to individual needs--from bagging leftovers to substituting ingredients on request--must account in part for the loyalty of their customers, with many of whom they're on first-name terms. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. (Reviewed July 19, 1996)
Some Kind of Place, 85 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, 321-4730
Many will remember this family-owned restaurant from its original location inside Liddicoat's on University Avenue. The new location at Town & Country Village is small, but the menu spans the globe. Three items will only cost you $4.60. Try the Korean barbecue, enjoy a cheeseburger or have a cheese-topped baked potato. Owners Elizabeth and Edward Cho have given hungry lunch-goers a great way to eat in a hurry. Far from gourmet, but cheap. Hours: 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m. every day except Sunday, when the restaurant is closed. (Reviewed Aug. 4, 1995)
Spalti Ristorate, 417 California Avenue, Palo Alto, 327-9390
This fine restaurant offers an extensive dinner menu (as well as an only slightly abbreviated lunch menu) featuring a broad cross section of classic and unusual dishes and includes several variations of just about all the building blocks of Italian cuisine. Take your time deciding from among 13 featured pasta dishes, five salads, three veal dishes, two risottos and three chicken entrees. On top of that, owner and manager Bolton Bulut offers three or four daily specials of fish, pasta and meat. Most of the entres are in the $15 range. Spalti's atmosphere is sophisticated without being austere, servings are generous, service is gracious, and dishes are prepared with a knowing hand. Hours: lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Saturday; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 4:30-9 p.m. Sunday. (Reviewed Jan. 24, 1997)
St. Michael's Alley, 806 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 326-2530
Choosing between the French toast, buttermilk pancakes with sliced bananas or a frosted cinnamon roll at St. Michael's is hard. The cozy cafe also serves omelets, pancakes and veggie potatoes at breakfast and sandwiches and mini-pizzas at lunch. There's always live music, poetry readings and improvisational theater in the evenings. Hours: 7 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fri. and Sat.; 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sun. (unless there is a performance). (Reviewed Dec. 31, 1993)
Stanford Ice Cream and Deli, 641 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, 326-8187
This deli and ice cream parlor serves more than 75 flavors of homemade ice cream and frozen yogurt. But sweets aren't the only treats dished up here. There are old-fashioned sandwiches, rich cream soups and salads that taste even better than homemade. Salads come as traditional as potato with egg and onion (small 95 cents, large $1.90). Or they may be as nouveau as thick pasta tubes dressed with a tart, tangy blend of rich gorgonzola and dried tomatoes (small $1.25, large $2.50). Soups here is as rich as you'd expect at a creamery. Sandwiches here range from simple peanut butter & jelly ($2) to smoked turkey and French dips ($4.35). Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Dec. 30, 1994)
Staples, 820 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, 328-0930
Staples' Iranian owners offer a dinner menu of Persian delights in a pretty atmosphere of ocher walls, modern light fixtures and pretty murals. By day, Staples is still a no frills cafe. Early in the morning, the place is abuzz with breakfasters munching on home-made muffins and scones. You can get standard American breakfasts as well as imaginative combos such as biscotti, fruit salad and coffee ($4.20) or a pita stuffed with egg, tomato, cheese and avocado ($5.75). Lunch depends on Staples' staple: the sandwich. With almost two dozen different combinations on its list, Staples has made its reputation by being serious about sandwiches. There's run-of-the-mill turkey, salami, tuna and liverwurst ($3.50), plus deluxe versions that run from roast beef, cream cheese and cucumber ($4.75) to tarragon chicken salad ($5.25). The most imaginative is Staples' special: thinly sliced ham with spicy, mild salsa, sweet cranberry, and tart melted cheese ($5.75). Hours: 8 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Dec. 22, 1995)
Stars Palo Alto, 265 Lytton Avenue, Palo Alto, 321-4466
Like the San Francisco original, Stars Palo Alto is not perfect. When it's good, it's very, very good. When it's less than stellar, you'll find yourself wondering why you paid $18-$24 for dinner entrees and $6-8 for desserts. You do know that you're in the restaurant of a celebrity chef-perfectionist. There's no salt or pepper on the table. The flatware is hallmarked. The champagne flutes are slender jewels. The menu reflects understated class, too. Choices change every two weeks or so, but always reflect a blend of classic French technique with the freshest California ingredients. The trademark open kitchen helped set the standard for the current overload of ultra-noisy, "happening" restaurants in our area. Hours: Lunch Monday-Saturday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner daily 5:30-10 p.m. (bar open until midnight); Sunday brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (Reviewed July 21, 1995)
Stickney's, 1 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, 324-0317
With its low-key attitude and whopping servings, Stickney's has been pleasing local restaurant-goers for more than 40 years. Stickney's may never make it onto the cover of Bon Appetit, but their pies will make it onto the love handles of many Peninsula residents. During the fall, Stickney's makes for a pleasant pre-game meal before a walk across the street to Stanford Stadium. You can sit at the small counter, in a bar complete with a television, in one of two dining rooms or a special sports themed room. The meals are your average Americana selections, and have been served at dinners like Stickney's across the country for years. Hours: Sunday-Thursday 6:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6:30 a.m.-midnight (Reviewed Nov. 4, 1994)
Sue's Indian Cuisine, 216 Castro St., Mountain View, 969-1112
Generous with portions, Sue's serves southern Indian cuisine that's rich and spicy in a casual atmosphere. Diners are surrounded by paintings by the restaurant's owner. Authentic Indian dishes include shrimp biriani ($8.95), made with cashews, almonds and raisins, which give the dish a pleasing flavor and texture, and a vindaloo that's sure to please those who like to sear their tastebuds. Vegetarians can choose from eight dishes in the vegetarian section of the menu, as well as a handful of dishes from other sections. Appetizers of nan--puffed-up Indian bread--and golden fried samosa--pockets of slivered green beans--come to life when dipped in lentil or tamarind sauces. Cold beer is a great accompaniment. Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday, 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (Reviewed Dec. 29, 1995)
Su Hong Restaurant, 1039 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 322-4631, and 4101 El Camino Way, Palo Alto, 493-3836
Tasty Chinese food served in the Szechuan and Mandarin styles has been keeping crowds coming back to Su Hong over the years. The menu also is full of American takeout favorites, including pot stickers and spring rolls. Su Hong chefs use garlic and peppers liberally, and keep their vegetables crisp. Call for hours. (Reviewed April 6, 1988)
Sundance Mine Company, 1921 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 321-6798
Sundance has attracted a loyal following by serving a small but well-chosen array of entrees that are centered on, but not limited to, a passion for beef. The wine list includes several selections from nearby vineyards in Napa Valley, Sonoma, Russian River, San Luis Obispo and the Santa Cruz Mountains. The obvious choice for main course is one of Sundance's signature cuts of beef. The prime rib is slow-roasted and carved lean to order for differing appetites. Hours: Dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday 5-10:30 p.m. Open for lunch starting May 17, Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. (Reviewed April 22, 1994)
Swagat Indian Cuisine, 2700 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View, 948-7727
Swagat not only dares to be different by offering southern Indian specialties like lentil crepes and sambar soup. This restaurant also distinguishes itself by a serious commitment to quality. It's worth a trip to the border of Palo Alto and Mountain View to find Swagat between a motel and a carwash on El Camino. Dining chairs with white brocade seats are cautiously covered in plastic. And white table cloths come with a paper mat at each place, makeing the place both kid-friendly and "dress-up" special. Take anything on the menu that's offered with sambar, southern India's rice-lentil soup. Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m., buffet lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; happy hour 4-6 p.m. (Reviewed Aug. 19, 1994)
Szechwan Cafe, 406 California Ave., Palo Alto, 327-1688
Szechwan Cafe has a cozy, neighborhood feeling, a quiet environment, attentive service, ample portions of good food, fair prices, and no crowds of food trendies. Although the food won't inspire anyone to write sonnets, it is good. The tastiest dish is Szechwan Cafe wontons in chili oil. This unusual dish, which the owner claims "no other restaurant has," has a pile of wontons adrift in a savory pool of soy sauce, barbecued chili seeds, oyster sauce and other mystical elements the owner would not divulge. Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri. and noon to 2:30 on Sat.; dinner: 4:30 to 9 p.m. Mon-Sat. Closed Sundays. (Reviewed Nov. 19, 1993)
Talbott's Restaurant and Bar, 463 California Ave., Palo Alto, 326-7762
This unobtrusive little place is more of a neighborhood pub than a restaurant. Sepia-toned photographs of the old town of Mayfield decorate the walls. Talbott's quiet appeal is in its simplicity. Just dark enough to be cozy, this is the ideal spot for a romantic rendezvous, a business lunch or a nightcap. The menu here is pretty limited: burgers, salads, sandwiches. The dozen-or-so offerings are outlined on a simple wall board, with daily specials of grilled fish and a pasta dish or two usually available. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner 4:30-10 p.m.; bar open most nights until 2 a.m. (Reviewed May 6, 1994)
Taxi's, 403 University Ave., Palo Alto, 328-3299
This clean, well-lighted place for burgers and fries attracts a steady stream of teen-agers, families and nostalgia buffs who line up to the door to put away baskets of onion rings, chili dogs, tuna melts and other foods of times gone by. What to call it? Diner Moderne? Nouveau diner? Either way, Taxi's has thrown together all the classic kitschy elements of a diner: a counter with stools that go around in a circle, gleaming black and white tile, fluorescent lights, a jukebox. It's an especially good place for kids, who will find buckets of crayons and a menu sized just for them. The menu is basic Americana with a twist. Besides the hallowed trio of burgers-shakes-and-fries, Taxi's offers several lowfat, low-cholesterol alternatives: the garden burger, the grilled fish sandwich, chicken breasts and baked potatoes. The menu boasts that Taxi's fries all its food in canola oil. Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. until midnight. (Reviewed Jan. 5, 1996)
Tea Time, The Tea Lovers' Shop, 542 Ramona St., Palo Alto, 32T-CUPS
The menu of more than 60 tea flavors is more daunting than the choices at Baskin-Robbins. The owners encourage customers to sniff before ordering. They patiently open one tin after another, dip in ceramic cups, and hold the leafy contents up to your nose for savoring. Each pot is brewed to order according to precise specifications that bring out the best of each variety. Edibles here are plopped down on Styrofoam plates, with white paper packets of sugar and throwaway wooden stirrers. Even the tea comes in plastic-handled glass cups. But just because treats aren't served with flair doesn't mean they aren't selected with care. The cream scones are delectable. There are elaborate continental pastries such as chocolate mousse nougat cakelets ($4.25) and sticky American sweets. Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m.; Fri. 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Closed Sun. (Reviewed Sept. 29, 1995)
Tenichi, 925 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 325-0444
The era of neon lights and loud music hasn't made it to Tenichi, the little Japanese restaurant that time forgot in Menlo Park. Plastic-backed chairs are simple and functional, and just a little worn. Lunch prices are moderate, but the food is so plentiful you can divide a lunch in two and save half for dinner. The lunch box ($6.95 for one item or $8.50 for two items), came with soup, rice and tea. That was in addition to the four stacked bowls filled to the rim with tempura, oranges, salad, fried tofu and a small sushi roll. Hours: Lunch Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinner Tues.-Sat. 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Sun. 5 to 9 p.m. (Reviewed Oct. 1, 1993)
Tied House Cafe and Brewery, 954 Villa St., Mountain View, 965-2739
The generous selection of award-winning beers is reason enough to pay this bustling "beer hall" a visit. Diners should draw their own conclusions about which beers best suit particular dishes, since the menu and servers provide few guidelines. A combination appetizer platter ($9.95) offers portions of blackened catfish strips, buffalo tenderloins (chicken breast strips a la buffalo wings), and two pieces of grilled sausage, including good bratwurst and spicy andouille. The Tied House's open kitchen prepares good hamburgers ($5.75) and commendable baby back ribs ($9.95 a half-slab). Hours: Lunch daily from 1:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Wednesday 4:30-9:30 p.m, Thursday-Saturday 4:30-10:30 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 27, 1995)
Thai City, 3691 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 493-0643
Fresh chiles, coconut milk, sour lemon grass and pungent cilantro are flavors that intermingle beautifully in the dishes served at Thai City. An authentic smoker makes roast duck a treat, coconut milk comes from the real thing instead of a can. Flavors at this casual and simple restaurant are tropical and unique, but diners need not feel intimidated by unusual-sounding specials. You can request less hot versions of anything on the menu, and when the kitchen is at its best everything from beef curry to Thai spinach in mild duck broth or baked salmon comes out shining. Families are welcome. Hours for lunch are Mon. to Fri. 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner is served from 5-10 p.m. nightly. (Reviewed Aug. 14, 1991)
Toshi's Sushiya Restaurant, 211 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 326-8862
At Toshi's, where food presentation is a fine art, the soft shell crab roll and giant futomaki are the most unusual offerings on its sushi menu. Heartier udon noodle soups ($5.90-$6.85) come in three versions. The most expensive dunks two long fried shrimp in the broth like swizzle sticks. Toshi's decor is spare and bare with boxy hanging lights made of miniature shoji screens. For kitsch, there's a clock on the wall with 12 varieties of plastic sushi replacing the numerals. Service is prompt and conscientious. Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5:30-9:45 p.m. Closed Monday. (Reviewed Jan. 13, 1995)
Trattoria Buon Gusto, 651-H Oak Grove Avenue, Menlo Park, 328-2778
This small Menlo Park restaurant stars two generations of Sicilian-Americans. Palma Costa, her daughter, and son-in-law have created an old-fashioned trattoria that blends cozy friendliness with first-class service and delicious Sicilian dishes. Try the caponata Siciliana appetizer ($6). This melange of vegetables in mildly spicy tomato sauce features giant capers, soft eggplant, black olives, onions and celery. You could make an entire meal of this spread and the homemade bread that arrives at your table. The lunch menu has some of the best sandwich deals in town. For $4.25, you get a vegetarian version on homemade foccacia that's two inches tall. The restaurant's address is Oak Grove Avenue, but it's actually hidden around the corner from the Menlo Park post office in the strip of shops on Maloney Lane. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tues.-Thurs. and Fri.-Sat., dinner 5 p.m.-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs and 5-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat., dinner 5-9 p.m. Sun. Closed Mon. (Reviewed Oct 20, 1995)
Una Mas Taqueria, 244 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, 323-TACO
This colorful self-service restaurant on the south side of the Stanford Shopping Center features an interesting menu of hard-to-find items such as fish tacos, as well as tasty, more conventional Mexican dishes such as gigantic quesadillas, burritos and salads. Una Mas joins the growing ranks of "health-Mex" restaurants--using only olive or canola oils for frying, never animal fats, and putting an emphasis on "fresh." Outdoor seating, with brightly painted red, yellow and blue tables and chairs help convey a festive feeling--even if you do have to dine facing the mall's parking lot. Hours: Sun.-Thur. 10 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 10 a.m.-10 p.m. (Reviewed April 30, 1993)
University Coffee Cafe, 271 University Ave., Palo Alto, 322-5301
Cozy is not a word that comes to mind in describing this java, juice and sandwich spot. It's streamlined. Polished. Cavernous. Behind shiny espresso makers, high-tech juicers and sparkling glass display cases, earnest and helpful young counter servers dish up the likes of black bean chicken chili, line-caught ahi tuna or grilled free-range chicken sandwiches, smoothies, fresh-squeezed fruit and vegetable juices, hummus with baked garlic pita chips and, of course, all the requisite Italian coffees. Breakfast is served until 11 a.m. Hours: 7:30 a.m.-11 p.m. weekdays, 7:30 a.m.-midnight Fri. and Sat., 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. (Reviewed Jan. 20, 1995)
The Valley Inn, 888 Portola Road, Portola Valley, 851-0242 This long-established restaurant combines a friendly neighborhood tavern atmosphere with large portions. The appetizers are main meals, the pastas are mountains, and the sandwiches can almost be intimidatingly large. The restaurant offers plenty of tasty alternatives on both its lunch and dinner menus. For noontime appetites, there are burgers of various varieties, meatball and sausage sandwiches, french dip and steak sandwiches. Prices range from $5.25 for a grilled cheese to $9.25 for the swordfish or salmon burger. On the dinner menu, main dishes range from spaghetti with marinara sauce for $8.25 to "Half a Benji" (two porterhouse steaks, salads, potatoes, vegetables, dessert and bottle of red wine) for $50. Most of the meals fall in the $10-$14 range. The Valley Inn has a full bar. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. (Sundays open at 10 a.m. for NFL games.) Bar hours 11:30 a.m. until "late," seven days a week. (Reviewed Sept. 27, 1996)
Vicolo, 473 University Ave., Palo Alto, 324-4877
Vicolo pizzeria, with its heavenly cornmeal-crusted pizza, means the search for the perfect pie is over. The menu at Vicolo is pure pizza, one calzone daily, and a few focaccia sandwiches, a soup, plus several simple but delectable salads. Vicolo pizza is expensive; one slice costs $3.25 and a whole pizza is $18.50. But you can't compare these prices to the chains--there's no similarity in the product. Topping combinations are unique: a favorite is eggplant marinara teamed with smoked mozzarella, roasted garlic, provolone, parsley, Parmesan and oregano. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri. (Reviewed Dec. 20, 1996)
Vietnam Restaurant, 1010 Doyle St., Menlo Park, 326-2501
Operated by three generations of a Vietnamese family, this clean, well-lighted restaurant serves fresh ingredients prepared the Vietnamese way, which is to say, with French and Chinese influences. Cooked, sliced pork with shrimp is a favorite--pork and shrimp team with delicate rice noodles, cucumber, fresh mint and cilantro, bean sauce, wrapped in the thinnest possible rice paper pancakes. A versatile entree is earthen pot rice, a sort of Vietnamese casserole that includes rice cooked in chicken broth, shredded chicken, lily flowers and Oriental mushrooms. Call for hours. (Reviewed May 9, 1990)
The Village Pub, 2967 Woodside Road, Woodside, 851-1294
Long the hangout of Woodside's horsey set, the Village Pub has lasted over the years by giving locals what they wanted. Today, the Pub has gone upscale California, leaving behind its years as a roast beef and dark wood dining room. You'll find the menu, which changes seasonally, to represent the cutting edge of West Coast cooking. Presentation is beautiful and ingredients the best. Pasta dishes are outstanding, and the Village Pub really knows how to cook fish. The wine list at the Pub is a good match for the food. Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mon. to Fri. Dinner 5:30 to 10 p.m. seven nights. Bar open all day. (Reviewed March 10, 1993)
Whole Foods Deli, 774 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 326-8676
When you lunch at the Whole Foods deli counter, there is one thing you must do first thing when you walk in: take a number. Don't let yourself be distracted by the tempting trays of food in the deli case--you'll have plenty of time to browse while you wait for your number to be called, especially if it's the busy lunch hour. Feast your eyes on the salads, the vegan things with strange names and the hot food ensconced in steam trays. For those on a budget, Whole Foods' soups are the best deal going. Hours: 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily (bakery and coffee open at 8 a.m.) (Reviewed Dec. 9, 1994)
Woodside Thai Spot, 593 Woodside Road, Redwood City, 365-4079
If you like Thai restaurants, but not their prices, try the Woodside Thai Spot. Its decor is unpretentious, but the service is quietly professional. An appetizer portion of chicken sa-tay goes for $4.50. For 25 cents less, you can get "kai yawng," or sliced chicken marinated in mild, tandoori-like spices. You'll get a few quirky surprises here: Tomato slices pop to the surface of the "tom kha kai," chicken and coconut milk soup with galanga and lemon grass. The Thai spot is not the place to go for a special occasion, but it is relaxing and peaceful. Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner: nightly 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed April 9, 1993)
World Wrapps, 201 University Ave., Palo Alto, phone 327-9777, fax 327-8679 (fax in your order)
If there exists in Mexico the equivalent of the Jewish grandmother (the kind who had serious palpitations when younger Jewish cooks began adding lemon grass and red hot chili peppers to chicken soup), she is sure to be shaking her head over what World Wrapps puts inside a tortilla. Tofu. Teriyaki tofu. Peking duck. Thai chicken. Curried vegetables. (Oh, and by the way, make that a spinach, roma tomato, whole wheat or lowfat tortilla). The loud and lively World Wrapps serves only two things: smoothies and wrapps. Wrapps come in four categories: gourmet, vegetarian, 99 percent fat-free and traditional Mexican. Smoothies come in two types: gourmet and "health boost." Although hardly a diet joint, World Wrapps emphasizes fresh, healthy ingredients. Hours: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily; no wrapps before 10:30 a.m. (Reviewed April 12, 1996)
Back up to the Table of Contents Page