Back to the Weekly Home Page

Classifieds

Palo Alto Online

Mighty oak

by Anthony Silk

The question I am most asked is "What is your favorite restaurant in the Bay Area?" Until a year ago my answer had been Wild Hare, with its fabulous interior and intriguing menu. Since it closed, I have wondered if the new occupant of that space could match what had once been.

As it turns out, Oak City Bar and Grill is a worthy successor. The restaurant's concept, according to general manager Steve Graham, is to provide a selection of items that appeal to a variety of tastes. One of the pleasures of running a restaurant, he said, is that he has "a lot of freedom to constantly improve the menu."

"We can make changes based on customer feedback almost instantly," Graham said.

The new ownership has maintained the rich, warm ambience that Wild Hare exuded. The almost rustic vaulted wooden ceiling, with its crisscrossed beams, still draw your eyes upward. As you look down, you'll find a beautiful mirrored bar with small green lights hanging overhead; an open kitchen with a wood-fired oven burning; and tables and booths separated from the kitchen by glass panels etched with their logo oak tree.

The open room invites friendly conversation, and there was plenty going on the first evening I visited. An electric buzz circulated through the packed house.

The menu at Oak City has touches of many cuisines, but is firmly rooted in American fare, right down to the meatloaf and macaroni and cheese. It remains in flux as executive chef Kerry Scheley (formally the chef de cuisine at Wild Hare), is still tweaking dishes, based on seasonal vegetables and daily responses from patrons.

I started with the Yukon gold potato-leek soup ($5), pureed until it was the consistency of a thick cream sauce. I'm a big fan of Yukon gold potatoes, with their bold but smooth flavor, perfect for mashing. Here they just overpowered the leeks, but the overall effect was still a delightful combination.

Just as wonderful was the smoked salmon ($8), a big plate covered with very thin fish slices and served with capers, Kalamata olives, pickled red onions, a dill-infused cream cheese and small slices of rye toast. The salmon was obviously fresh, moist and tender, perfect by itself or complemented with the sides.

But my favorite were the Asian BBQ spareribs ($9), a mound of bite-sized ribs -- perfect for picking up and nibbling on -- slathered with a Hoisin-ginger glaze that gave them a slightly sweet, slightly tangy taste. I could barely snag a couple to sample from my companion that evening, who then had barely enough room to try her entrée.

Oak Grill also serves three different pizzas as appetizers, all $8. I didn't get to try one, but I was fortunate enough to hover near a roasted portobello mushroom pizza while waiting for my table. The mushrooms were large, thickly cut and drizzled with truffle oil, whose aroma blended exceptionally with the sharp fontina cheese. The pizzas were large enough to share as a starter or order alone as a main dish.

My only disappointment among the entrees was a sweet corn and chanterelle mushroom risotto ($13). Despite its intense mushroom flavor, I felt it had been overcooked in the chicken broth, rendering it the texture of rice pudding, according to one of my companions. Readers should note that his dish is no longer offered in its original form. Scheley received a request from a customer for a true vegetarian dish, so she now serves a vegetarian butternut squash risotto instead.

My friend's white cheddar cheese burger ($10), on the other hand, was cooked exactly as requested. I had recently been discussing the merits of a good hamburger, and this one hit all the marks: juicy inside with a gently charred flavor outside, covered with a biting cheese and accompanied by some of the best thin-cut french fries I've had in quite a while. Scheley cuts the potatoes fresh every afternoon, making for a crunchy, intensely flavorful fry. (My two British companions wanted to call them chips, but these were as American a fry as you can get).

Although I liked the burger as served, my friend requested a steak sauce accompaniment, which our waiter said was not stocked in the restaurant. Scheley then appeared at our table, suggesting alternates for him. It was impressive to see a chef so interested in satisfying her customers.

I didn't need to add anything to my pan-roasted Atlantic salmon ($16), as this thick slab of fish was expertly prepared throughout. I particularly enjoyed the deep-fried green tomatoes that served as a bed, lending a touch of acidity to the plate and adding a homey quality to the dish.

But my overall favorite was the mac and cheese gratin ($11), a bubbling oversized pot filled with cheddar, Swiss and Parmesan cheese, baked and covered with herb and garlic croutons. This was the essence of comfort food. Each cheese added to the mix, sending off delightful aromas that almost transported me to my mother's kitchen.

Pastry Chef Robin Gale, another former Wild Hare employee, has created some exceptional treats (all $7), even though Graham claims she is still trying to improve her menu.

A frozen raspberry-hibiscus martini offered vodka-infused raspberry sherbet, served in a martini glass and sprinkled liberally with candied lemon peel. Even my companion, who was too full to eat another bite, couldn't pass this up.

I fought my companions for the last bites of the warm flourless chocolate cake served in an individual tart pan and topped with a too-small scoop of peanut butter ice cream. If rich and chocolate are words that give you shivers, this cake will give you chills.

Along with the full bar, noted for its organic fresh-fruit infused vodka martinis, Oak Grill has a very approachable wine list with many selections available by the 2.5 oz taste, glass or bottle. Most bottles are under $30, although Graham does stock a $300 Australian Shiraz.

Service was prompt, informative and friendly. Even on a busy Friday night meals came at a very acceptable pace.

So far Oak City Bar and Grill has managed to pull off what it intended to do: offer an exceptionally prepared menu at reasonable prices in an inviting atmosphere. It may have been a year since my "favorite" restaurant closed, but it looks like it was worth the wait.

Oak City Bar and Grill, 1029 El Camino Real, Menlo Park; (650) 321-6882. Reservations, especially on weekends, are a must.

Hours:Lunch: Mon. - Fri.: 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m., Dinner: Mon. - Sat.: 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m., Sun.: 5:30 p.m. - 9 p.m.

Atmosphere:Light and airy, with crisp lines and a vaulted wooden ceiling.

Highlights:Asian BBQ spareribs ($9), Mac and cheese gratin ($11), flourless chocolate cake ($7).

Price Range: Appetizers: $5 - $10, entrees: $11 - $27, desserts: $7.
Reservations: Yes Credit Cards: Yes Valet and Lot Parking: Yes Alcohol: Yes Takeout: No Highchairs: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes Banquet: Yes Catering: No Outdoor seating: No Noise level: Avg. Bathrooms: Very good