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Palo Alto Online

The familiar baker

by Anthony Silk

There's a certain comfort level attached to a chain restaurant. There are no big surprises, no hidden "gotchas" -- just the same food, in generally the same type of setting, no matter where you go.

Of course, there are levels of chain restaurants, from the most common fast-food chain, like McDonald's, to more upscale eateries, such as Palo Alto's highly anticipated Cheesecake Factory.

In Palo Alto, at the gorgeous Garden Court Hotel, there is Il Fornaio, a member of a chic Italian restaurant chain. There are more than 20 incarnations, all located in the western states, with many in California, including San Jose, San Francisco and Walnut Creek.

Il Fornaio means "the baker," and you'll know the restaurant has been appropriately named from the moment you walk in the door and smell some of the fresh bread baking in the hearth. It's a warm and inviting aroma that draws you indoors, where you'll be face-to-face with the open kitchen and its stacks of pots and pans. Ingredients fly through the hands of the busy staff.

If all the commotion is too much, you can just as easily slip outside to the large covered patio, where there seems to be much less movement, but much more chatter from the patrons.

Not long after you're seated you'll be presented with a basket of mixed breads and breadsticks and a plate of Il Fornaio's own olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The breads are warm and yeasty, and whet your appetite.

If you really like the bread, you can pick up one of the more than two dozen rolls and loaves at the bakery. You can even buy an Il Fornaio bread cookbook, olive oil and apron.

My first selection from the extensive menu was an appetizer of carciofi al forno ($7.50), baby artichokes stuffed with bread crumbs, garlic and cheese. The stuffing was sweet with a tang of tartar sauce that balanced the heady garlic. But the artichokes were rather bland and somewhat tough. They were also large, at least four inches across -- big for a "baby" artichoke.

I had much more luck with the calamaretti fritti ($8.95), a large basket of baby squid that were lightly floured and deep-fried to a beautiful golden color. Aside from being extremely tender -- with no hint of the rubbery texture that comes from over-cooking -- they had a delicate flavor. The accompanying marinara sauce, although a little thin, still managed to enrobe each piece with a zesty tomato flavor.

I stayed with my tomato theme and ordered the insalata caprese ($6.95), with its thick slabs of mozzarella over sweet vine-ripened tomatoes and basil leaves that were so fresh they tasted as if they had just been picked off the plant. I would have actually preferred a thinner cut of mozzarella, as the abundance of the somewhat bland cheese only distracted from the rest of the dish.

My selection of entrees at Il Fornaio also had its plusses and minuses.

A pizza quattro stagioni ($10.95) was redolent of ham, asparagus, artichokes, mushrooms and fresh basil, each bite a cornucopia of competing flavors. But half of it was tepid, just above room temperature, as if it had been quickly reheated before serving. That's fine for the next day -- and there was easily enough for two sittings -- but not acceptable for the first go-round.

A plate of ravioli di melanzane ($13.75) on the other hand was piping hot, and each homemade ravioli burst forth with eggplant, garlic, basil and ricotta cheese. Both the eggplant and the garlic had been roasted first which accentuated their "oak-y" flavors, both to the nose and palate.

From the specialty menu the sauce of the scaloppine al limone e carciofi , or more commonly veal scaloppini, ($17.50) was delightful, with the acidic lemon adding just a bit of zing to its rich texture, but the meat itself was too tough, almost to the point of being chewy.

The petto di pollo al peperoncino ($14.95) was much better. This mesquite-grilled double chicken breast was not only fork-tender, but expertly spiced with sage, rosemary, thyme, and just enough red pepper to give it an unexpected kick. My only complaint was the accompanying Tuscan salad, made with fresh arugula and white beans. It was too heavily coated in oil, adding little to the flavor and making the leaves look wilted.

For a different take on chicken, try the pollo toscano ($14.50), a wood-fired rotisserie chicken. It was hard for me to pass up, especially because my table the second night was situated about 20 feet from the rotisserie. I could smell the chickens cooking every time some of their juices dripped into the slowly charring wood below.

Portions at Il Fornaio are large, and you may not have room for dessert. But I wouldn't pass up taking a glance at the dessert trolley, which is covered with delectable-looking treats.

Our waiter the second night had a fairly heavy Italian accent, so it was a bit difficult to understand him as he explained each confection, but I certainly could recognize the rich chocolate in the torte lamponi ($5.95), a decadent, cheesecake-like pie sitting on swirls of raspberry and an orange cream sauce.

For those more traditionally minded, there is tiramisu ($6.50), a large block resplendent with thin slices of cake and espresso-flavored cream. If you need a bigger shot of espresso, try the affogato al caffe ($5.50), which is strong coffee poured over two scoops of vanilla ice cream and topped with whipped cream. If that doesn't give you a buzz, nothing will.

Il Fornaio has a full, mirrored bar, where you can laze the afternoon or lounge while waiting for your table. There is also a full wine list.

Overall, Il Fornaio can be counted on to provide consistently good food in a warm and inviting atmosphere. And you can probably rely on the same standards at the similarly named restaurants from Seattle to Las Vegas. Although it's often fun to try something new, it's nice to know we can always count on the familiar.
Il Fornaio features the cuisine of a different region of Italy during the first two weeks of each month. Sicilian fare will be featured beginning Sept 1.


Il Fornaio, 520 Cowper St., Palo Alto; (650) 853-3888

Hours: Mon. - Thu. 7 a.m. - 11 p.m.; Fri. 7 a.m. - midnight; Sat. 8 a.m. - midnight; Sun. 8 a.m. - 11 p.m.

Atmosphere: Warm, with aromas of fresh bread and a large, open, very busy kitchen.

Highlights: Calamaretti fritti ($8.95), ravioli di melanzane ($13.75), torte lamponi ($5.95)
Price Range: Appetizers: $6 - $10, entrees: $10 - $22, desserts: $5.50 - $7.
Reservations: Yes Credit Cards: Yes Lot Parking: Yes Alcohol: Yes Takeout: Yes Highchairs: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes Banquet: Yes Catering: Yes Outdoor seating: Yes Noise level: Avg. Bathrooms: Avg.