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Paradise found

by Anthony Silk

A uthentic cuisine is always difficult to do well, especially in a small restaurant. Besides finding the right ingredients, the chef has to understand the subtleties of the region's spices and how they are used in each dish. Trying to do this for more than one cuisine can be overwhelming, at least without more than one chef.

But Paradise restaurant in Mountain View is one that manages to pull it off, successfully presenting both Afghan and Persian cuisines in a classic setting.

Owner and chef Nick Waziri is originally from Afghanistan but he did not get into the restaurant business until he came to the United States with his wife, Faima, in 1981. He started Paradise in 1989 with a now departed partner who was from Iran. They decided to split the cuisine 50-50, Waziri tackling the Afghani side and the partner, the Persian side. But even after the partner left and Waziri took over the restaurant completely, both styles of cooking were kept.

Today Waziri manages the restaurant with his wife -- she during the day and he at night. Waziri credited their success to their hands-on style.

"It's important that the owners are a part of the kitchen," Waziri said. "It lets the customers know you care about the food."

The ambience of the restaurant seems to have more of a Persian flair, with rugs decorating the walls and other Middle Eastern artifacts around the room. It's small, but quaint, and once inside you would never suspect that you are part of a strip mall.

The menu also leans toward Persian cuisine, although Waziri said that many of the dishes are actually found in both Afghanistan and Iran. He's tried to find the best qualities of each.

There isn't any complementary bread to begin the meal at Paradise. If you want some, you'll have to order one of the half-dozen appetizers. Do so and you'll be treated to barbari , an Afghan bread similar to focaccia and perfect for dipping in any of the excellent starters. For the unadventurous there is a lovely hummus ($3.95), with its depth coming from mixing garbanzo beans with garlic and tahini (a thick paste made of ground sesame seeds).

My favorite was the more complex kashk bademjon ($3.95), a dip made from eggplant that has been marinated in onions, garlic and herbs and topped with yogurt. Here the richness of the eggplant and spices is nicely balanced by the sweet yogurt. It was so good I had to scoop up the remainders with my spoon when I ran out of bread.

If soup is more your style, you won't go wrong with the outstanding osh reshteh ($2.75) a lentil soup filled with vegetables, noodles and topped with the homemade yogurt. A large bowl on a cold afternoon would make the perfect meal.

Entrees at Paradise are divided into one of four categories: house specialties (mostly kabobs), rice specialties, vegetarian dishes and traditional Persian cuisine.

The kabobs are simply presented -- just the meat and a large side of Basmati rice, which is cooked with saffron on top to give it a little color. I found the Barg kabob ($10.50), made from marinated sirloin, to be on the tough side, possibly from overcooking. The chicken kabob ($12.95), on the other hand, was delightful, tender, juicy and bursting with flavor.

For a truly Afghan take on the kabobs, try the choopan ($16.95). Made from lamb, it had a much more subtle flavor than the beef, although it may be that it was better prepared. Waziri uses Australian lamb, which he claims is the best quality on the market, although it comes at a steeper price than domestic meat.

The menu suggests adding a side order of barbequed tomatoes ($1) for all the kabobs. These succulent delights were wonderful. You'd be making a mistake not to add them to one of the kabobs, or any other dish.

I was equally impressed when it came to the rice dishes. Basmati rice is a thin, but long grained rice which does not have the "stickiness" of most Asian rice varieties. The plates are served with either lamb, beef or Cornish hen. We tried the latter, adas polo ($9.95), which is accompanied by lentils, fried onions, walnuts and dates.

The bird was expertly prepared, crisp on the outside but moist inside. The vegetables made a wonderful palette of tastes and textures. Considering the price, this may be the best deal in the place (although I thought this dish, too, was made better with some of the barbecued tomatoes).

The good news kept on coming when I moved on to the vegetarian dishes. Here the choices include eggplant, cauliflower or pumpkin. I was so pleased with the eggplant appetizer that I ordered it for a main in the form of keddo bademjon ($9.25), which combines the vegetable with zucchinis, mushrooms, and potatoes tied together with a tomato sauce. Here Paradise showed a knack for complementing flavors, making each vegetable distinct but still part of a whole dish.

I would like to go back and try the chello kadu ($8.95), which is sauteed pumpkin topped with the homemade yogurt. Waziri said it's one of the most popular dishes on the menu.

Finally, to test the traditional Persian cuisine, I opted for the fesenjon ($9.50), which is diced chicken breast cooked with walnuts in a pomegranate sauce. Here I found the flavors a little too subtle, almost indiscernible. There was nothing particularly wrong, just nothing really compelling about this dish.

If you still have room Paradise offers three desserts, including bastini ($3.95), an ice cream made with rose water. But if you really want rich, try Waziri's take on baklava ($2.25), with its multiple layers of buttery pastry and caramel sauce.

Paradise has a short but adequate wine list. If you want something more suited to the atmosphere, try a homemade cherry or yogurt soda.

I asked Waziri if he had noted a decline in business in these troubling times. Fortunately, he said that although there was an initial slump after 9/11, customers quickly came back, placing food over politics.

And who can blame them? No matter what else is going on, people still want good food at good prices. If that's what you're looking for, you'll find it at Paradise.

Paradise, 1350 Grant Road #15B., Mountain View; (650) 968-5949

Hours: Lunch: Mon. - Fri.: 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. - Fri.: 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m.; Sat. - Sun.: 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.

Atmosphere: Small but interesting, with Persian rugs highlighting the walls.

Highlights: kashk bademjon ($3.95), chicken kabob ($10.50), barbecued tomatoes ($1).

Price Range: Starters: $2.75 - $4.25; Entrees: $9 - $17; Desserts: $2.25 - $3.95.
Reservations: No Credit Cards: Yes Lot Parking: Yes Alcohol: Yes Takeout: Yes Highchairs: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes Banquet: No Catering: No Outdoor seating: No Noise level: Low Bathrooms: Avg.