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Palo Alto Online

Flower power

by Anthony Silk

Silicon Valley's demise has sent laid off techies looking for work in other, often radically different, industries. I thought I was unique when I went from software project manager to food editor -- until I met Satish Sandadi, the owner of Marigold, the newest Indian restaurant to grace University Avenue in downtown Palo Alto.

Sandadi came to the United States from India seven years ago, enticed by the prospects of exciting and challenging work in the emerging high-tech market. Aside from computer skills, he also brought with him a passion for food. As he enjoyed the demands of the silicon sector, his desire to work in the food business grew. Two months ago, he fulfilled this second dream by opening Marigold. Sandadi had no formal restaurant training, but he was able to sponsor a chef from India to do the cooking.

"It allows us to present a mixed culture," Sandadi said. "My chef understands Indian cuisine and I can blend that with American tastes."

Marigold is a melting pot of the two cultures. Although the space is small, barely holding two-dozen tables, it remains cheery, with bright yellow walls accented by a variety of Indian and modern paintings. The cloth-covered tables are topped with glass, with a simple wine list sandwiched between the layers. Sandadi considers the decor a work in progress, and hopes to update it as the restaurant grows.

The menu is also being constantly revised. At first glance you sense this is a restaurant that is attempting much, without striving for haute cuisine. Simply printed on colored paper, it looks like a homemade Microsoft Word document, and remains in need of some formatting, as desserts seemingly come under the header "appetizers." Minor errors notwithstanding, Sandadi has put together an impressive array of dishes.

The first item on the menu is pappadum, ($1.50) very thin and crisp lentil wafers. You don't need to order them, though. They are served complimentary when you sit down. They're quite tasty, too. I ate them like potato chips -- one after another.

Because many Indians are vegetarian, Sandadi has wisely separated both appetizers and main courses into vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes.

We started with the vegetable samosas , ($3.50) a traditional Indian dish made with spicy green peas and potatoes fried in a pastry. They were very light, with a nice balance of spices, making them flavorful but not burn-your-mouth hot. For an additional 50 cents, you can have a non-vegetarian version made with spicy ground lamb.

If you are a fan of lentils, the Mulligatawany soup ($4) is a wonderful twist on the traditional American soup, but here it is chock full of big cuts of vegetables and chicken.

My favorite, though, was the gobi pakoda ($4), diced cauliflower coated in gram flour (or besan , a flour made from ground, dried chickpeas). Here the cauliflower was tender, but not mushy, and lightly cooked to incorporate all the delicate spices.

Along with our appetizers, we ordered an assorted basket of bread, ($7.95) which included naan , onion kulcha and paratha , a whole wheat bread fried on the griddle. The naan was unexceptional and the paratha had a nice chewy texture and buttery flavor. With almost a dozen variety of breads available, I would recommend trying something more unusual, such as the paneer paratha ($3) made with cottage cheese.

If you are truly in the mood for some unique dishes, you will be very pleased when you turn over the menu to the entrees.

At the top of the menu are dishes cooked in the tandoor oven, or tandoori. This traditional round-top oven uses the direct heat produced by a smoky fire, infusing the foods with both the flavor of the spices and the smoke. I settled on the tandoori mixed grill ($11.95), which included chicken, lamb and prawns served sizzling hot over bell peppers and onions. My friend described it as Indian fajitas. Because of the high heat of the tandoor oven, foods cook very quickly, and can easily become overcooked. This happened with my prawns, which were almost rubbery in texture distracting from any flavor they may have contained. The lamb, however, was very nice, without a hint of the problems the prawns encountered. But best by far was the chicken, with the high heat searing in the moisture and the flavor of the bird.

Stepping away from the tandoori, the remaining entrees fall under the heading "curry" and are served in traditional small copper bowls with sides of rice. These items are made to share, so it's best to order a few and pass them around.

We went for one of the more popular dishes, the chicken tikka masala, ($10.95) which is marinated boneless chicken in a cream sauce. After tasting it, I could understand why people keep coming back to it -- the tender pieces of chicken were a delight; the rich sauce perfect for sopping up with the chewy breads.

For those desiring a little more spice, there is the chicken vindaloo, ($9.95) which is similar to the tikka masala but made with a hot sauce. It had a nice kick, but was far from eye-watering. But if you'd prefer to go extra rich, then definitely order the butter chicken ($10.95), which is almost, but not quite, over-the-top, and definitely not for calorie-counters.

If you are looking for something out of the ordinary, Sandadi recommends the rogan gosh ($11.95), a lamb curry whose origins lie in Kashmir, or the goat curry ($12.95), which is described as a classic dish, although I have not seen it on any other menu in the local area.

If you haven't tried Indian cuisine before, you may wish to come at lunchtime, when Marigold offers an all-you-can-eat buffet ($7.95). The items change every day, so it's an easy way to sample many of the dishes the restaurant has to offer.

Service both visits was very good, even with two impatient children in tow. Despite the squirming and mess at my table, the staff remained all smiles. Even at the buffet, which is self-serve, Marigold goes out of the way to bring a basket of fresh naan to each table. It's a nice touch, especially since fresh bread is such a crucial element to a good Indian meal.

There is certainly a lot to like at Marigold. Even though it is still a little rough around the edges, it is a good choice for patrons looking for something different, tasty and affordable. I suspect that it won't be too long before Marigold blossoms.

Marigold, 448 University Ave., Palo Alto

Hours: Lunch: Mon. - Fri.: 11 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.; Sat. - Sun.: 12 p.m. - 3 p.m.; Dinner: Sun. - Thu.: 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.; Sat. - Sun.: 5 p.m. - 11 p.m.

Atmosphere: A small space that remains bright and cheerful.

Highlights: gobi pakoda ($4.00); butter chicken ($10.95); tandoori chicken ($9.95)

Price Range: Starters: $3.50 - $8; Entrées: $8 - $15; Desserts: $3 - $4.
Reservations: No Credit Cards: Yes Valet and Lot Parking: No Alcohol: Yes Takeout: Yes Highchairs: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes Banquet: No Catering: No Outdoor seating: No Noise level: Avg. Bathrooms: Avg.