Back to the Weekly Home Page

Classifieds

Palo Alto Online

Posh Peking

by Anthony Silk

C hinese cuisine has always been an oddity to me. On the one hand, it is an ancient fare with as much rich tradition as almost any in the world. On the other, in America we often treat it as quick take-out, ordering Americanized versions of meals that sound more Chinese than they actually are. After all, even fortune cookies were invented in California.

Thus when it comes to reviewing a Chinese restaurant the first question that comes to mind is: does it stand out from the crowd? There are more that fifty Chinese restaurants in the local area according to PaloAltoOnline. What will make me want to go to this restaurant over the myriad of others?

There is certainly nothing remarkable about the outside of Peking Duck , a small building set apart from the many shops along El Camino Real, with a picture of a cheerful duck dressed as a chef on top. But upon entering I knew immediately how it was trying to define itself. With bright white table clothes, sparking glasses and black lacquer chairs this is a restaurant aiming for fine dining.

The restaurant is a cozy two-level affair with several large round tables topped with glass lazy susans on the lower section, and smaller, more private tables on the upper tier. We were quickly seated and presented with seven-page menus, the first half of which is filled with a myriad of dishes, each described in English and Chinese. The back pages of the menu, listed as "VIP Business Menu," are only in Chinese. Nearly 150 items are offered.

We started with crispy pancakes with scallion ($3.50), which we found listed on the take-out menu, but not on the main menu. Our server was happy to oblige us though. The pancakes consisted of two round, doughy discs with golden flaky crusts topped with sesame seeds. Their taste was reminiscent of an egg roll wrapper, with hints of the many flavors that get infused into reused frying oil, although the simplicity of the chopped scallions made these a much lighter appetizer than a full roll.

The best deal of the night was the velvet chicken corn soup ($5.50). Most of the soups are made to serve two people, but this could have easily served three or four as an appetizer. The soup, which had an egg drop base, contained large pieces of chicken and a generous amount of corn. Its wonderfully smooth texture lived up to its name.

Most entrees are divided into categories based on main ingredient, such as pork or chicken. Like most Chinese restaurants, meals are meant to be shared, and thus are served when ready rather than all at once.

Naturally the first item under a separate heading of "Chef's Recommendation" is Peking duck ($12.95 for half, $24 for whole), which, unlike many restaurants, does not have to be ordered in advance. But convenience does not always equate to preference, as I found this version fattier than most, and while the skin was nicely cooked, it lacked the sharp crispiness of a freshly cooked duck.

Hoping for a crispier bird, I ordered the fried Cornish hen ($9.95) which was a whole, deep fried hen chopped into small pieces and served on a platter along with shrimp chips (similar to potato chips but rice based and flavored with shrimp). While the plate looked full, many of the chicken pieces were almost entirely bones, so I had to hunt for the meat, which was flavorful, but much too salty. The skin was very crispy, though.

For contrast we ordered the shredded pork with spicy garlic sauce ($8.50). Although I expected more of a garlic presence, I still found this to be a very good dish, with a nice thick sauce, lots of pork, and accented with a variety of vegetables. This dish also mellowed with age, as there was plenty left over for lunch the next day. Unfortunately I had to supply my own rice as basic steamed rice is considered a side dish ($1/pint) and I ate all of mine at dinner.

Since so many people only go to Chinese restaurants for take-out, I tried that as well.

Take-out can be tricky, as the food tends to sit in a container for a few minutes before it is opened. But if a restaurant wants to be successful in this venture it must prepare for that eventuality and the diner should expect to receive a meal as good, although perhaps not as hot, as the one served at the restaurant.

I started with pot stickers ($4.95), one of my favorite dishes. But these were too thick, so the wrapper, which should barely hold the insides together, needed a healthy bite to get through. Once I made it to the filling I found it delightful and generously proportioned.

An order of cashew chicken ($8.50) had plenty of cashews, pieces of chicken, peas and carrots, but otherwise was ordinary, lacking any depth of flavor. I felt the same about the beef with two kinds of mushroom ($10.50) until I bit into one of the large black mushrooms and was overwhelmed with a complexity of textures and flavors. The companion straw mushrooms were similarly intense. Perhaps if the entire dish were allowed to simmer longer those flavors would make their way into the beef and sauce. A day in the refrigerator and then reheating made the entrŽe a standout. My order of homemade noodles with chicken ($6.50) was tasty, but would have been better with less oil and leaner chicken.

Service was quick, efficient and unobtrusive both as a sit down diner and ordering take-out. You could just as easily bring the family here as have a quiet, intimate dinner.

If you are looking for an evening out and are craving Chinese, Peking Duck may be worth a visit. The ambiance ranks as one of the best in the area, especially if you don't want the long lines or higher prices of a high-end restaurant like P.F. Chang's. On the other hand, if take-out is your goal, you may wish to continue to shop around. Like the menu at Peking Duck, there are lots of options.

Peking Duck, 2310 El Camino Real, Palo Alto (650) 856-3338

Hours: Sun. - Sat.: 11 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.

Atmosphere: Fancy but unpretentious.

Highlights: Velvet chicken corn soup ($5.50), beef with two kinds of mushroom ($10.50).

Price Range: Starters: $2.50 - $8.50; EntrŽes: $6.95 - $14.50; Desserts: $2.95 - $3.50.
Reservations: No Credit Cards: Yes Valet and Lot Parking: Yes Alcohol: Yes Takeout: Yes Highchairs: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes Banquet: Yes Catering: Yes Outdoor seating: No Noise level: Low Bathrooms: Avg.