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Reviews

Following are condensed versions, in alphabetical order, of longer restaurant reviews published in the Weekly over the past several years. This week's reviews begin where the list ended one week ago.

3 Fish, 888 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 326-2633 @movietext:There's been a sea of change at 3 Fish since opening last year to great accoldades. While the menu has barely changed, the chefs have, and you can tell. The freshness and zip diners found so exciting has dwindled away. Modeled after a New England fish shack, only a little nicer, 3 Fish is owned by the Fish Market's Fred Duckett. Oh sure, you'll find a nice selection of the usual oysters on the halfshell, shrimp cocktail and mussel and shrimp steamers. But there's not enough curry to sop up with bread in a version of a Parisian rstaurant's mussel dish (and out of place in an American coastal fish joint). Lobster salad, however, is packed to overflowing and a great meal on its own. But several grilled or sauteed fish dishes were dry, and lacking the full range of flavor you'd expect. All in all, a disappointing dinig experience considering the high prices. Also offered linguini with clams, cioppino and non-seafood such as steaks, chops and a great wild mushroom risotto. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat.-Sun. 5-10 p.m. $$$-$$$$ (Reviewed April 13, 2001)

2030, 2030 Broadway, Redwood City, (650) 363-2030 @movietext:The news has obviously gotten out that, after being bought a year ago by Danny and Jan Sullivan, this unpretentious yet quietly stylish eatery serves up some very good food indeed. Although a classic French influence shows itself in several presentations, the repertoire cannot be easily pigeon-holed. Gastro-imperialists will be unnerved by the inclusion of, say, both veal Normandy and roasted Mexican snapper on the same night's menu, let alone the gleeful juxtaposition of roast rack of lamb and an unashamedly inauthentic paella. Unfussy and market-driven, the menu is revised every six weeks, while the soup changes daily along with a supplementary pasta and seafood dish. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; Dinner from 5 p.m. daily. $$$ (Reviewed May 15, 1998)

The Acorn, 1906 El Camino Real, Atherton, (650) 853-1906 @movietext:El Camino has seen the rise and fall of many restaurants not willing or able to stand the test of time or economic turbulence, whereas The Acorn has. When owner Sam Petrakis died in 1990, Maria, his wife, sold their 17-year-old family business. The location then became The Acorn Bar and Grill, but after two years Maria was not happy with the changes the new owners made. She bought it back for herself and her sons and restored it to the kind of restaurant she believed it was meant to be. As for the staff, they remained loyal to her family--one of the keys to success in the restaurant biz. The restaurant specializes in a cuisine that generally squeaks under the radar of the food-as-high-art crowds: Traditional Greek spanakopita, tyropita and rack of lamb Athenaiko are all worth homing in on, though. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 5-9 p.m. daily. $$ (Reviewed July 17, 1998)

Alice's Restaurant, 17288 Skyline Blvd., Woodside, (650) 851-0303 @movietext:By day, Alice's Restaurant is a breakfast-and-lunch spot of ordinary pancakes and hamburgers. In the evening, this Mecca for motorcyclists is transformed into whole different dining experience--and not one you'd expect from the rustic restaurant with cowhide booths. A simple coffee shop for many years under the ownership of Alice Taylor, Alice's has been owned by Art and Leonie Atherton for the past five years. Nighttime chef Fiona Cruywagen is a wild-card talent with a fine culinary imagination: risotto con funghi ($13.50), prawns in pineapple coconut curry served with basmati rice ($13.95); grilled double pork chop with apple raisin chutney over garlic buttermilk mashed potatoes ($12.95). Live country music on some nights completes the experience. (Note that on Tuesday nights there is a different menu.) Hours: Mon.-Fri. 7:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Sat. and Sun. 8:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. $$ (Reviewed May 26, 1995)

Allied Arts Guild Restaurant, 75 Arbor Road, Menlo Park, (650) 324-2588 @movietext:The Allied Arts Guild Restaurant opened in 1932, when the women of the Palo Alto Auxiliary were invited to provide lunch service at the Guild. Nestled in the Arts Guild's tranquil gardens, the restaurant is a beautiful Spanish Colonial structure surrounded by flowers, fountains and boutiques. The volunteers serve up to 280 guests a day and all proceeds benefit the Lucile Salter Packard Children's Hospital at Stanford. The price is $12.50 for a full lunch, including beverage and dessert. The menu is put together on a monthly basis, with two selections served daily--a hot entree and a salad entree. A light lunch is available for $7.50. All food Monday through Friday is prepared in an enormous kitchen by the 200 active Auxiliary members who do all of the testing, menu planning, cooking and serving. On almost all Saturdays, however, it is important to note that the lunches are prepared and served by an outside catering service. Hours: Seatings every half hour from noon-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Closed Sunday. $$ (Reviewed March 8, 1996)

Amarin, 156 Castro Street, Mountain View, (650) 988-9323 @movietext:Primitive restrooms aside, Amarin has been planned with an eye for practicality and aesthetic detail. Glass tops keep the table linen snowy white, the forest green of the dinner napkins exactly matches the arches of a series of alcoves displaying vases and figurines. Amarin means "I shall live forever," and the menu will certainly appeal to health-conscious cholesterol-watchers. Vegetarians are especially well catered to. A dozen entrees are based on simulated meat made from wheat flour or soy bean. Portions are generous, and it's as well to bear in mind when studying the several menus (regular, vegetarian, and a separate bound sheet for lunch specials) that many dishes are meant to be shared. Hours: Lunch Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner daily 5-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed March 15, 1996)

Amber India Restaurant, 2290 El Camino Real No. 9, Mountain View, (650) 968-7511 @movietext:Tables are set with china pretty enough to make newlyweds jealous. Food arrives in picturesque hammered copper pots. And the restaurant sets a new standard for service in Indian restaurants. Even if you're more into meals than manners, you won't be disappointed by Amber India's regional cuisine. There's fiery hot chicken vindaloo as well as dishes mild enough to please your great aunt Tillie. The chicken pasanda is simply strips of boneless chicken breast in a cream sauce flecked with nutmeg and microscopic bits of ground cashew nuts ($13). The combination was so rich and mild, it might have been French. Tender tandoori chicken was just as innocent of fiery flavor. But this dish always gains pizzazz when eaten with the customary splash of lemon and crunchy sweet onion slivers (half very small chicken $8, whole $14). Hours: Lunch daily 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner nightly 5 p.m.-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Nov. 3, 1995)

Amelia's Restaurant, 2042 Broadway, Redwood City, (650) 368-1390 @movietext:Central American cuisine incorporates a complex network of indigenous and international influences that does not exactly stop at the Mexican border. The family-run Amelia's Restaurant in Redwood City is a great place to start experimenting with those dishes traditional to El Salvador, while offering a wide variety of tried and true Mexican specialties for those who prefer more familiar fare. The setup is simple: You mosey up to a cluttered counter, make your selections from a large, overhead menu and then take a seat wherever you like. The decor is pretty nondescript, although some effort has been made to create a south-of-the-border feel with some woven wall hangings and pictures of Mexican scenes. Servers bring over chips and some extremely hot salsa while you wait for your meal to be delivered to your table. It's a straightforward system, and it works just fine. Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. $ (Reviewed July 10, 1998)

Amici's East Coast Pizzeria, 790 Castro St. Mountain View, (650) 961-6666, www.amicis.com @movietext: Thin, crispy, take it or leave signature style brick oven charred crust rules here at this pizza. Get a few East Coasters together and a lively debate is sure to ensue over whether or not this is real East Coast pizza. Pizzas here are paper thin, baked in roaring 700 degree brick ovens in about four minutes. Amici's combo should delight all, with pepperoni, meatballs, olives and mushrooms. The Greek Isle is more exotic, as is the clam-topped pie. Pesto is decent but better eaten on the lighter crust (baked for a minute less). But we'll skip other sauceless pizzas, since the crust tends to be dried out without it. Good starters include garlic bread and an antipasto salad; otherwise save room for pizza. The dining room is sunny by day, plain vanilla by night. This totally casual pad is good for big groups. Hours: Mon.-Thu. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sun. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed March 23, 2001)

L'Amie Donia, 530 Bryant St., Palo Alto, (650) 323-7614 @movietext:Simple French bistro cuisine. Perfect chocolate mousse. Salads dressed so lightly you can taste the different greens. You'll get mild flavors, fresh ingredients and light, French country fare at this bustling bistro. The only caveat: L'Amie Donia can be unbearably noisy. Menus change seasonally here. Examples include coq au vin ($13.50), a mild melange of chicken stewed in cabernet with mushrooms, pearl onions and potatoes, and for vegetarians, yellow bell peppers stuffed with a buttery mixture of rice and vegetables ($12.75). The restaurant has a carefully selected list of French and local wines. Hours: dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-10 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Aug. 26, 1994)

Andale Taqueria, 209 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 323-2939

@movietext:Chili-pepper lights and a bull's head decorate this fast food newcomer to the downtown scene. But don't let the surreal art deco put you off -- mesquite-grilled chicken, low-fat black beans and fresh tamales so pretty you won't want to eat them -- make the fare here impossible to resist. Diners can pig out on supremo burritos laden with smoky grilled chicken, guacamole, beans and cheese, and other authentic Mexican dishes, or opt for a mesquite chicken salad with goat cheese, romaine lettuce and avocado that is top-quality California fresh. Save room for an extraordinary cheese flan. This place is kid-friendly and inexpensive, but draws quite a crowd. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. $ (Reviewed Dec. 4, 1991)

Angelo Mio, 820 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 323-3665 @movietext:This fine, small cucina has an expansive selection of heartwarming pastas surrounded by salads, appetizers, and main dishes that include eggplant, veal, chicken, steak and calamari. Every meal starts with small rounds of freshly baked Italian bread and a bowl of an extremely lush olive oil steeped in garlic. Each dish shares two traits--incredibly good olive oil and garlic. Pastas are boiled with an artful precision that keeps them from losing a second's worth of flavor. Perhaps two of the most outstanding pasta dishes are the Linguini Cozze ($9.95), linguine with fresh New Zealand mussels, hot chili flakes and roasted garlic in a red sauce, and Linguine Vongole ($10.95), linguini with sauteed fresh clams, olive oil and garlic in a white wine sauce. Whatever you do when you dine at Scala Mia, make room up front for the restaurant's wonderful array of salads. Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$ (Reviewed June 13, 1997)

Applewood Inn, 1001 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 324-3486 @movietext:Applewood has been around for nearly two decades, but a recent change in ownership brings fresh changes. The pizza parlor now serves lunch five days a week. In addition to the gourmet pies with unusual toppings that made Applewood's reputation, sandwiches and hearty pasta dishes round out the lunch menu. Choose a chicken or turkey club, or opt for a seafood salad or roast beef sandwich. All come with sauteed potatoes. Feeling more like pasta? Go for the primavera with red sauce, or linguini with prawns. There's even a new pizza flavor, the Milano, loaded with portabella mushrooms and roasted red peppers, satisfying any sweet tooth. Of course at dinner, you'll find Applewood's classic pizzas, such as the pesto with lots of garlic, feta cheese and onions, the Skandinavian with smoked salmon, sour cream and capers, or the Santa Fe with chilis, tomatillos and chicken. Salads are a good bet here, especially the spinach and goat cheese with pine nuts. Hours: Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; Mon.-Sat. 5-10 p.m.; Sun. 5-9 p.m. $ (Reviewed Sept. 1, 2000)

Armadillo Willy's, 1031 N. San Antonio Road, Los Altos, (650) 941-2922 @movietext:Recognizing that barbecue is not simply a method of cooking meat, but a culinary obsession--an art, even, in certain areas of Texas--the owners of Armadillo Willy's have created a dining experiene worthy of a hearty "Yahoo!" The huge menu features ribs, sausages, hamburgers, Tex-Mex specialties, sandwiches and salads. The service is friendly and the atmosphere is no-frills. Wine and beer as well as margaritas are available. Armadillo Willy's has won awards for its barbecue sauce, which comes in hot and mild versions. Unless you're a real spice wimp, go for the hot. It is quite manageable whereas the less complicated mild is a bit on the subtle side. Open Mon.-Fri 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat. noon-10 p.m.; Sun. 4:30-9 p.m. $ (Reviewed April 16, 1993)

Babbo's , 717 Market Street, Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, (650) 321-1488 @movietext:Babbo's may be an institution in Peninsula dining, but one that's resting on its laurels. This restaurant is owned by Paulette and Lazlo Fono, who also run Bravo Fono. The main attraction here is the glorious outdoor seating at the mall, and day into-night meal service. Pizza dominates the menu, and swings from mediocre, as in the pesto pizza, to good, as in peperonata pizza. Salads have seen fresher days. Babbo's is proud of its food, and prices, especially for entrees, which run as high as $21.95, prove it. You'll also find paella, pastas and stews. We can recommend several mouthwatering desserts, such as a tart lemon tart, warm and satisfying bread pudding, and a decadently dense chocolate cake. Service, though friendly at the greeting, falls short later into the dining experience. Hours: Mon.-Sun. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Sept. 29, 2000)

Baccarat at Hotel Sofitel, 233 Twin Dolphin Drive, Redwood City, (650) 598-9000 @movietext:Sophisticated French dining is a rarity these days, so when you feel like splurging it's important to go to the right place. Baccarat, the restaurant of the Hotel Sofitel, delivers classic, flawless meals from the first course--perhaps wild mushroom gnocchi in duck consomme--to the last-- maybe a chateaubriand carved at the table and accompanied by red-wine and bearnaise sauces. You'll find a triple veal chop, medallions of bison and other spectacular and creative dishes, all pricey but perfectly executed. The dessert special, a souffle, is worth the wait. Hours (dinner only): Mon.-Thurs. from 6-10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. until 10:30 p.m. Closed Sun. $$$ (Reviewed Aug. 26, 1992)

Baja Fresh, 3390 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 424-8599, bajafresh.com @movietext:Baja Fresh does something unusual for a fast food chain - it actually uses fresh ingredients, and menu items are prepared on the premises daily. No wonder the burritos, tacos and salads are terrific here. You'll never see browned guacamole dip. Burritos are overstuffed, but if that's not big enough, go for the dos manos which really does need two hands to hold it and double the appetite. Meals are ordered and delivered counter service style, but you can help yourself to the freshly made salsas and unlimited soft drink refills. There are even steak or chicken fajitas on the menu, and the Baja fish tacos are just right. Enjoy the lively atmosphere, with Latino tunes playing in the background, inside the spotless restaurant or outside on the patio. Hours: Daily 11 a.m.- 9 p.m. $ (Reviewed Feb. 9, 2001). @moviehhead: Bandera, 233 3rd. St., Los Altos, (650) 948-3524, www.banderalosaltos.com. @movietext: Head to Bandera, a contemporary homey bungalow in the heart of Los Altos, for rib-sticking hearty American fare. BBQ ribs, juicy and aromatic spit roasted chicken and prime rib on the bone, with scallion and garlic studded mashed potatoes, spell pure comfort food. While good food at good prices is a draw here, crowds come for the martinis. The "007" is superb, with four fat, stuffed olives jazzing up the vodka-based libation. Definitely shaken, not stirred. Pair it with buttery-smooth smoked salmon starter, or a grilled artichoke with zesty remoulade. If you make it to dessert, the Oreo cookie sandwich is a decadent standout. Takeout is available during the day for lunch and corporate affairs, even though the restaurant is only open for dinner. Hours: Tue.-Thurs. 5-9:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5-10 p.m.; Sun 4:30-9 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Nov.25, 2000)

Bangkok Bay Thai Cuisine, 825 El Camino Real (at Broadway), Redwood City, (650) 365-5369 @movietext:Bangkok Bay does a pretty good job of walking that fine line between accessibility and authenticity, much in the way Thai food manages at once to be subtle and intense. The satay is especially good. Tom kah gai is a chicken lemon soup, mildly spiced, smoothed with coconut milk and brightened with lemon leaves. If you order lunch from the Combinations listing, you get any two items along with soup and rice. Tod man pla, an entree unfortunately found only on the luncheon menu, is an excellent version of fish cakes served in a sweet and spicy cucumber sauce. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Monday-Thursday 5 p.m.-9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.-10 p.m. and Sunday 5 p.m.-9 p.m.n $ (Reviewed April 7, 1995)

Bangkok Cuisine, 407 Lytton Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 322-6533 @movietext: Bangkok Cuisine, off the beaten path on Lytton Ave., is intimate, friendly and inviting. The smells are the first wake-up call to the senses, a fragrant fusion of barbeque, garlic, sugar, chilis and peanuts. After a few minutes, the comfortable ambience, decorated in soft pinks and greens, seduces you into thinking you are gazing at fresh flowers while dining off linen. Such is the charm of the place, because the napkins and place mates, at lunch at least, are mere paper; the flowers ersatz. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sun.-Thu. 5 p.m.-9:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Dec. 10, 1993)

Bangkok Spoon, 702 Villa St., Mountain View (650) 968-203 @movietext:Bangkok Spoon offers affordable Thai food in an comfortable setting with excellent, friendly service. Appetitizers include larb ($5.75)-a tasty blend of ground pork, beef or chicken cooked with green onion, red onion, chili, rice powder and lemon dressing, spring rolls ($5.50), and the combination appetizer plate ($12.95)-a comprehensive dish with three pieces each of spring rolls, fish cake, goong kimono (marinated shrimp wrapped in rice paper and deep-fried) and chicken satay. Also recommended is the Bangkok Spoon salad ($5.95), and the spicy-and-sour shrimp and lemon-grass soups ($3.25). Recommended main courses include the curries ($5.95-$9.95) and the beef nuer pad prig khing ($6.25). Bangkok Spoon also offers a nice vegetarian menu with tow hu tod ($5.50), deep-fried bean cakes served with spicy sauce and ground peanuts, and kao paht pak ($5.95), Thai-style fried rice with assorted vegetables and egg. Hours: Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Sat. & Sun., 5-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed May 26, 2000)

Bella Luna, 233 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 322-1846 @movietext:University Avenue's new Bella Luna boasts one of the most attractive interiors in Palo Alto. The tiny restaurant has brick pillars covered with crumbling "plaster" and jewel-like stained-glass "windows" that look out onto nothing. These embellishments add depth and interest to the long, narrow storefront that paint alone can't manage (Bella Luna is painted a two-tone mustard yellow and dusty salmon, with a teal blue acoustical-tile ceiling that really cuts down on noise). Somehow all of the decor functions as shorthand for "expect slick Northern Italian food." And Bella Luna delivers. There are the bruschetta, risotti and antipasti that new generations of Northern Californians are being weaned on, all served at fairly reasonable prices. Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. Fri., 1-11 p.m. Sat., 1-10 p.m. Sun. $$$ (Reviewed April 23, 1999)

Ben Bo's, 460 Ramona St., Palo Alto,(650) 323-2555, www.benbos.com @movietext: This charming eatery serves up healthy Mediterranean fare, such as lamb and fish kabobs, stuffed grape leaves, Greek salads and a wonderful hummus. No added fat or oils here; everything is marinated then perfectly grilled. Kabob dishes are served with basmati rice and a tomato-cucumber-onion shirazi salad. You'll find other Greek specialties, such as retsina wine and squares of honey-sweet baklava. Outdoor tables are a delightful place to linger over a cup of potent Turkish coffee. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.- 3 p.m.; 5:30 p.m.- 9:30 p.m.; Sun. 5:30 p.m. 9:30 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed October 6, 2000)

Buca di Beppo, 643 Emerson St., Palo Alto, (650) 329-0665 @movietext:The interior of this fun, funky restaurant looks like someone has been collecting Italian-motif kitsch for years and finally got a chance to show it off. Brightly painted walls are literally covered with photographs of all things Italy: Sophia Loren in her lingerie prime, street urchins making deals, Frank Sinatra at all ages, stills from gladiator movies. There's a day-glo Venus de Milo in an alcove and a shrine to the Pope. Servings at Beppo are huge--when they're not immense. "Small" plates of spaghetti will serve three to four; large plates will serve five to six. The menu is written out on well-placed blackboards and includes many staples of Italian cuisine. Typical offerings include thin-crust pizza with sausage, pepperoni and the like ($9.95-$13.95), spaghetti with meat balls (small $9.95, large $16.95), tortellini with cream sauce and vegetables ($18.95), eggplant Parmesan ($14.95) and veal piccata ($17.95). Hours: (Dinner only) 5-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 5-11 p.m. Fri.- Sat. $$ (Reviewed Sept. 13, 1996)

Bistro Elan, 448 California Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 327-0284 @movietext:This delightful restaurant on California Avenue melds a French sensibility with a Californian emphasis on light foods. The French-California connection at Bistro Elan makes sense when viewed in the context of the culinary road map followed by chef Ambjorn Lindskog. In 1988, he opened Cafe Pro Bono on on Birch St. in Palo Alto. In 1992, he sold Cafe Pro Bono and went to France where he worked at a three-star restaurant in Burgundy. Smell is the first thing you notice when you walk into Bistro Elan, hearty blend of yeast, honey, olives, garlic and coffee. Bistro Elan bakes all its own breads and pastries in its open kitchen in the center of the restaurant. This makes for baskets of bread that are always warm, soft and fragrant and pastry that is so flaky it practically parts itself before the fork. Hours: 7:30-11 a.m. breakfast; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. lunch 5:30-10 p.m. dinner. No lunch on Sat. Closed Sun. $$$ (Reviewed July 7, 1995)

Bistro Vida, 641 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 462-1686 @movietext:Santa Cruz Avenue in Menlo Park is becoming a serious outpost of casual French bistro fare. Opened in the middle of 1998, Bistro Vida is a glorious archetype. The dinner menu is small and select--a simple sheet of thick paper and a chalkboard with the listings of eight appetizers and 10 entrees. The classic French influence is apparent immediately, with such staples as pate and bouillabaisse, but modern sensibilities prevail in both garnish and presentation. The duck confit salad and the house french fries are worth a visit by themselves. And the racks of European newspapers, church pew banquettes and long wooden bar pull together for a dynamic European decor that oozes comfort, class and eclectic good taste. Hours: Breakfast 7-10:30 a.m. weekdays, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. weekends; Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; Dinner 6-10:30 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 6 p.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday, 5:30-9 p.m. Sunday. $$ (Reviewed May 1, 1998)

Blue Chalk Cafe, 630 Ramona St., Palo Alto, (650) 326-1020 @movietext:Blue Chalk Cafe started Southern in 1992, right across from Palo Alto's City Hall, and continues its south-of-the-Mason-Dixon drawl today. But things are changing. The ever-hip BCC has added a handful of menu items that draw their inspiration from that ephemeral Zeitgeist of American pop food offered from New York to San Francisco. Don't worry, though--even if it ain't Southern, it's got soul. Service is unswervingly upbeat and attentive, at least as much as possible when the bar and dining room are mobbed. The blue felt-topped pool tables and shuffleboard give patrons something to focus on when the decibel level precludes conversation. Pool is $10 per hour for the table before 7 p.m. and $12 after 7. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner 5-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. $$ (Reviewed Dec. 4, 1998)

The Boardwalk, 4940 El Camino Real, Los Altos, (650) 964-7500 @movietext:The Boardwalk is no mystery. Written in humongous letters on one side of the entrance is the word "sandwiches" and the calling card "pizza" hangs on the other side. The Boardwalk is a no-frills burger and pizza joint brought to you by the folks that blessed Menlo Park with the like-minded Oasis. Guys, you're not going to impress a first date by bringing her to this El Camino Real eatery unless, of course, she prefers chowing down on solid, fried, American food staples to dining at trendy bistros and cafes. (And if that's the case, I'd recommend marrying her.) Who you will undoubtedly impress is your kids' Little League team, your softball team, or your father's bowling squad. The decadent double cheeseburger makes the calories count. Hours: Monday-Thursday 8 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Friday 8 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m. to 1 a.m. $$ (Reviewed June 12, 1998)

Boston Market, 3375 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 843-0288 @movietext: Boston Market straddles a sort of nether-region in the world of restaurants. While it certainly can qualify as a fast-food, take-out place, it is in fact not in the same league. The food is several notches better than what one normally scarfs down at a fast-food joint, and the menu carries what is traditionally perceived as full meals--main course, vegetables, side dishes, the works. Chicken and turkey are the restaurant's specialty, but it also serves ham and meat loaf--good comfort food. Boston Market does not offer the amenities of full-service restaurants or made-to-order dishes. Servings are generous, specials are prolific and prices are truly low. For around $5, you get a main course and two generous sides, or an overstuffed sandwich with extras. Hours: Open daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed Sept. 19, 1997)

Boudin Sourdough Bakery and Cafe, 68, Stanford Shopping Center, (650) 853-1849 @movietext:For the most part, the menu at this bakery/cafe builds on a splendid foundation of crunchy and chewy sourdough bread, offering a slew of sandwiches, soups and salads, along with a variety of coffees and desserts. The atmosphere is pleasant, aided by a generous display of breads, muffins, pastas, coffee beans and seasonings in boxes, jars, cans, cannisters, tins and baskets behind the main counter. Boudin does salads very well, especially their signature Caesar ($5.15), which comes as a standard portion or small and on-the-side with the purchase of an entree. Hours: Monday-Friday, 8:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Saturday, 8:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Sunday, 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m. $ (Reviewed Feb. 24, 1995)

Le Boulanger, 720 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 322-5528; 301 Main Street, Los Altos, (650) 949-3429; 650 Castro St., Mountain View, (650) 961-1787, www.leboulanger.com @movietext:This bakery/cafe serves up home baked goodies to start your day in the morning, and offers up more substantial fare for lunch into dinner. You'll find a wide selection of salads, including a primavera, chock-full of walnuts, raisins and gorgonzola cheese, dressed in a sweet balsamic vinaigrette. The spinach salad has bacon, mushrooms, tomato and egg. Choose from a long list of sandwiches, such as turkey cranberry on pane rustica, or tuna Provencal on sourdough. Four daily pizzas round out the substantial menu, available as whole pies, or half pies with salad. Selections include the Roma, with pancetta and roasted peppers; the San Francisco, with smoked gouda cheese and BBQ chicken; the Lahaina has Canadian bacon, pineapple and coconut. And for dessert, of course, there's plenty of pastries to tempt you. Hours: Menlo Park, Mon.-Sat. 6 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sun. 7 a.m.-6 p.m. Los Altos and Mountain View, Mon.-Sat. 6 a.m.-8 p.m; Sun. 7 a.m.-7 p.m. $ (Reviewed Oct. 13, 2000)

The Boulevard Restaurant Bar & Grill, Skyline Boulevard and Woodside Road, Woodside, (650) 851-7444 @movietext:Boulevard is at the intersection of Woodside Road and Skyline Boulevard, which is pretty close to the clouds, or at least it seems that way when the fog rolls in. Any way you climb it, the drive will take you roughly 15 minutes of switchbacks and hairpins. Once there, you'll find a laid-back bar-cum-restaurant serving up straight-ahead American favorites (steaks, burgers, onion rings). The fireplaces crackle, the grizzled clientele in the bar shout loudly at the video games and in the dining room it may be date night or raucous family outing. The menu allows for either--popcorn shrimp and Budweiser, or porterhouse steak and a decent Cabernet Sauvignon. Hours: Monday-Wednesday 4-10 p.m., Thursday and Friday 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m.-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Dec. 11, 1998)

Bravo Fono, 99 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, (650) 322-4664 @movietext:There is much that is charming at this fine establishment, starting with the sophisticated look of the place--sleek and cool overall, but with warm splashes of color on the walls from the paintings by Andrea Fono, daughter of owners Paulette and Lazlo, Hungarian-born food entrepreneurs who also started the chain of Magic Pan restaurants. The service is extremely attentive, and any seafood dish is a good bet. The menu also features a variety of pasta dishes and a section titled "Paulette's Cuisine Grand Mere," which offers entrees like coq au vin ($14.95), which stews chicken in red wine with bacon and potatoes; and veal fricassee ($13.95). Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed March 31, 1995)

British Bankers' Club, 1090 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 327-8769 @movietext:Food and fantasy, the twin pillars of many an enjoyable dining experience meet agreeably at the British Bankers' Club, a meticulously reconstructed monument to England's Edwardian past. The flip side of all that cool British reserve is the glorious excess of a place like the BBC, with its gaming trophies on the walls, colored glass windows in the doors and on the ceiling and beaten copper table tops. By contrast, the pub food here (bangers and mash, shepherd's pie, fish and chips, garlic bread) is nothing fancy, but, for the most part, quite satisfying. Live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Hours: 4 p.m.-1 a.m. daily. $ (Reviewed Feb. 10, 1995)

Buck's Woodside, 3062 Woodside Road, Woodside, (650) 851-8010 @movietext:Meet with a local venture capitalist for a power-breakfast omelet. Wrap up a hard ride on the Portola Valley Loop with a burger or salad. Take your sweetheart out for filet mignon on a Saturday night. If it's any of the above, you can do it at Buck's. To define the Woodside restaurant's appeal as versatility would be understatement. Eclectic, eccentric and very California, this cafe has been around for only six years and already it's something of an institution. Its collection of odds and ends and weird bits of memorabilia gives one the sense of walking into not so much a restaurant or museum as someone's dream. While Buck's food doesn't necessarily try to be all things to all people, it does span the range from eggs over easy and a basic BLT at breakfast or lunch, to an elegant chicken piccata once dinnertime rolls around. Plus, Buck's has the most extensive plastic lizard collection around. Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; limited menu from 3-5 p.m.; 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday; 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday; 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. $ (Reviewed May 22, 1998)

Cafe Borrone, 1010 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 327-0830 @movietext:OK, so you sip your double decaf latte with a view onto El Camino Real, but the venerable Cafe Borrone is about as close as you're going to get to the bustling, see-and-be-seen atmosphere of a Euro cafe. They even still allow smoking at the outdoor tables. Don't be deceived by the casual, order-at-the-counter feel of the place. The fine fare here can add up fast when sandwiches and lone slices of quiche are in the $5-$7 range, salads are about the same and speciality coffee drinks are, of course, over $2 a pop. A refill for a mug of house coffee will set you back 50 cents. But the elegant edibles here makes just about any meal worth the money. And some items, like the garlicky veggie melt sandwich ($6.50), are really, really worth it. There's live Dixieland jazz on most Friday nights. Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 7 a.m.-11 p.m.; Fri. 7 a.m.-midnight; Sat. 8 a.m.-midnight; Sun. 8 a.m.-5 p.m. $ (Reviewed March 22, 1996)

Cafe Brioche, 445 California Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 326-8640 @movietext:This is a charming little place that will impress even those fortunate enough to clock up frequent flyer miles between here and Nice. Three sidewalk tables front the restaurant, but the interior's skylights, shade umbrellas, potted plants, pale green decor and flagstoned floor give the entire 40-seat cafe an outdoorsy feel. Local artist Nicolai Larsen has painted the walls with a series of old-fashioned advertisements of the type found throughout southern France, and a large mirror hanging between two of them helps to open out the room, making it seem cozy rather than cramped. The seasonally changing menus include one or two dishes from different parts of France and some minor borrowings from other European countries, but the cafe's sensibilities are truly Provencal. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-3 p.m., brunch Saturday 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner Wednesday-Saturday 5:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m. $$ (Reviewed May 24, 1996)

Cafe Fino, 544 Emerson St., Palo Alto, (650) 326-6082 @movietext: You'll find a romantic, intimate dining room, presided over by an Isis-like art deco mural and 1920's art deco-style bar. This sister restaurant is just next door to Fred Maddalena's namesake dining establishment Maddelana's. Enjoy pizza, pasta and grill dishes in a lively atmosphere while enjoying live piano or jazz music, performed nightly. Live music starts at 7:30 p.m. and the place sizzles. The crowd ranges from oldies but goodies to fine young beauties and Silicon Valley execs at the bar. The atmosphere tops our list as a reason to return here again and again - especially to sit at the bar and drink sophisticated cocktails and martinis created by bartender extraordinaire Maurice Amzallag. The $5 lunch specials are hard to beat. Hours: Tue.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Mon.-Sat. 5:30-10 p.m. $$-$$$ (Reviewed Feb. 12, 1999)

Cafe Maremonti, 201 California Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 322-8586, silanfoods.com @movietext: Seafood dishes are the specialty here at the latest addition to Ismail Unlu's local restaurant dynasty (Silan in Los Altos, Cafe Silan in Menlo Park and Cafe La Scala in Burlingame). You'll find excellent renditions of linguine with white clam sauce and savory pine nut-crusted sea bass. Anything with shrimp and/or scallops is delicious, as are the risottos. Of course, there are the classic pastas, salads and meat-based dishes similar to the ones you've encountered at other Unlu restaurants. The homemade focaccia is soft and thick, perfect for sopping up the fragrant garlic-basil-hot red pepper-infused olive oil. If you have room, don't miss the zabaglione dessert. Cafe Maremonti has a pleasant, sunny dining room, decorated with all of the usual Unlu touches - mural covered walls, Italian ceramic knickknacks. Servers are fawning and anticipate your every need, but can be slow during the busy lunch crunch. Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (lunch served until 5 p.m.); brunch Sat.-Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. $$-$$$ (Reviewed March 2, 2001) Cafe Pro Bono, 2437 Birch St., Palo Alto, (650) 326-1626 @movietext: Cafe Pro Bono has a warmth and intimacy that new, hipper restaurants downtown fail to achieve. The atmosphere is cozy and relaxed, and encourages diners to linger over their meal and enjoy the evening. Open for lunch and dinner, Cafe Pro Bono features the old favorites: classic Italian pastas and a broad range of meat and fish dishes, also largely Italian. Susan's Downfall cheese ravioli, fillet of sole, Caesar salad are all recommended, as are the desserts and cappucchino. The wait staff is excellent. Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5-10 p.m. daily. $$$ (Reviewed Dec. 31, 1999)

Cafe Renaissance, 321 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 321-6222 @movietext:Nestled between N.Y. Pizza and Tibet Designs is Cafe Renaissance, a bright little cafe that serves a hearty lunch at a fair price. The music is usually classical and relaxing, an interesting mural surrounds the skylight and displays by local artists are on the walls. Since buying what was then the Plantation restaurant in 1991, Amir Khatibi has slowly shifted the focus of the cafe to introduce Persian fare. Each day there is a different, special Persian platter to showcase dishes like loobia polo, a tender leg and thigh of chicken on a bed of basmati rice, mixed with tomato sauce, soft green beans and very subtle spices. Hours: Monday-Friday 6:30 a.m.-6 p.m.; Saturday 6:30 a.m.-4 p.m. $ (Reviewed Dec. 18, 1998)

Caffe Riace, 200 Sheridan Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 328-0407 @movietext:Opened in 1998, Caffe Riace was named after a small town in Calabria, in the tip of the Italian boot that owners Franco and Giuseppe Carrubba call home. New to the restaurant business, the family envisioned this as a casual spot to stop in for a coffee or gelato, but the concept has evolved way beyond just a cup of joe. Palo Alto Realtors and lawyers have made Caffe Riace a serious lunchtime watering hole. But it is on a warm summer night that the cafe's real charms are apparent--the lulling thunder of a neaby fountain, the wide expanse of intricate marble terrace, stars overhead and the spunky Sicilian fare are transporting. The wine list is worth a substantial read, heavy on the modestly priced Italian reds which pair perfectly with simple dishes like a jumble of soft sauteed bell peppers glistening with olive oil and flavored liberally with garlic. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed Aug. 7, 1998)

Cafe Silan, 867 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 326-5404, www.silanfoods.com

@movietext:By eating on the Peninsula, you can eat around the world. The latest restaurant from mini-mogul Ismail Unlu (La Scala, Silan, Cafe Maremonti) brings Kurdish cuisine to Menlo Park. This tiny yet charming cafe serves lamb and bulgar-based dishes, common foods of Unlu's native Kurdistan. The Mediterranean salad is a sampler plate of delicacies such as grape leaves stuffed with a sweet mixture of bulgur, nuts and spices, as well as hummus, a yogurt dill sauce and bean salad. Grilled pizzas are topped with lamb and veal; a spicy lamb stew is baked in a clay pot; lamb kabobs are marinated and grilled to perfection. Try one of the sweet Kurdish drinks, flavored by dried fruits. You'll find yourself wanting to return again and again to Cafe Silan to sample the entire menu. Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Dec. 15, 2000)

California Cafe, 700 Welch Road, Palo Alto, (650) 325-2233 @movietext:Set in the renovated Stanford Barn, the California Cafe is a perfect example of Silicon Valley chic with its noisy, fun-filled atmosphere. A large, frequently changing menu offers everything from sandwich platters to full-course meals, with selections ranging from fried calamari in a corn meal crust to Japanese eggplant and focaccia canapes. The Cafe's wine list offers several interesting choices in the $20-$25 price range. All menus always include several vegetarian items. Hours: Dinner 5-10:30 p.m.; lunch Monday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. $$ (Reviewed May 20, 1994)

California Pizza Kitchen, 513 Cowper St., Palo Alto, (650) 323-7332 @movietext: Like the Hard Rock Cafe, CPK is more than a just a restaurant and a T-shirt. It's a statement about being in the know. Certainly, CPK understands the California food mind-set: cheeseless pizza options, mixed grill vegetarian pizza, honey whole wheat crust. Pasta dishes include the intriguing chicken tequila pasta, made with tequila, ginger, black beans and chipolte chicken. The menu is complicated only within categories. Basically, CPK serves pizza, soup, salad, pasta, foccacia sandwiches and a few grilled meats. As expected, the wine list has a heavy California accent, with a bit of Italian throw in. Hours: Mon.-Fri. from 11;30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sat. from 11:30 to 11 p.m.; Sun. from noon to 9 p.m. $ (Reviewed Sept. 9, 1994)

Capriccio, 325 Sharon Park Drive, Menlo Park, (650) 854-6822 @movietext:The pale golden glow to the place is reminiscent of an Italian trattoria, but trattoria isn't quite what Capriccio is. Although the restaurant (whose name comes from the word "whim" in Italian) serves some typical trattoria fare, it does much more. The menu varies from classic Italian pastas to some rather elegant entrees. For example, you can order calamari siciliana ($11.25) or prawns saute ($11.25). On the other hand, you can order a pizza ($8.45-$11.45) or select lamb chops ($9.50) from the grill. The point is, the menu at Capriccio's is almost as big as the restaurant is. And that's not small. Hours: Lunch Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-4 p.m.; dinner 4-10 p.m.; Sun. dinner only, 4-10 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Aug. 16, 1996)

Carpaccio, 1120 Crane St., Menlo Park, (650) 322-1211 @movietext:Carpaccio is one of Menlo Park's toniest places to see and be seen. The people-watching is great. A mix of funky accent pieces with staid marble floors and mahogany-painted chairs keep things a little off kilter. The best dishes on the menu take their cue from the earthy exuberance of the decor. One of the best is an appetizer of protobello mushrooms roasted in the wood-burning oven ($5). Carpaccio pours fresh olive oil that's great with the super-fresh bread brought in daily from Le Boulanger. The "pansotti con crema di noci," with its elegant cream sauce and mild herbs, is another good bet. You will need a reservation. Ask for a seat by the front window. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 5-10 p.m. Sat., 5-9 p.m. Sun. $$$$ (Reviewed May 7, 1993)

Casa Isabel, 2434 Park Blvd., Palo Alto, (650) 328-3102

@movietext:The unassuming little Casa Isabel has been serving up sauce-drenched enchiladas and good old refried beans since the early 1980's. Judging from the tattered, bright orange menus (emblazoned on the front with a diconnected phone number) and the selection of traditional, often heavy entrees, it would appear that not much has changed here since opening day. Divided by archways into three kitchen-cozy little rooms, this family-run eatery is a somewhat dim, but not gloomy, locale for lunch, what with all the deep red curtains keeping the midday sun at bay. Hours: Tue.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5:30-9 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Aug. 12, 1994)

Celia's, 3740 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 843-0643 @movietext: Everything is made from scratch at the family-run Mexican restaurant. The recipes come from the state of Jalisco, where the Rodriguez family has their roots, but most dishes have been tempered to accommodate American palates. Celia's menu covers all the basics of Mexican cuisine and then some. Along with the traditional offerings of tostadas, tacos, quesadillas, enchiladas and burritos are some interesting variations, including a chicken mole enchilada ($6.95), Spanish omelet ($6.45), Mexican pizza ($4.95) and avocado tostada ($6.95). There is also a full page of house specials, an area where Celia's kitchen really shines. The portions all around are generous enough for big appetites. The decor has a simple south-of-the-border feel. Hours: 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $ (Reviewed April 11, 1997)

Chantilly, 3001 El Camino Real on the border of Atherton and Redwood City, (650) 321-4080 @movietext:Reminiscent of the old Chantilly II on Ramona St. in Palo Alto, Chantilly has kept its ambiance of Old World formality dressed in a more sophistcated and elegant aethetic. Diners are more likely to be in dressy or business attire than in blue jeans. Although officially "continental," Chantilly leans heavily toward Italian, with lots of veal scaloppini, risotto, gnocchi and calamari. Hours: Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.- 2 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Sat. 5:30-9:30 p.m. $$$$ (Reviewed Jan. 14, 2000)

Charley's, 244 State St., Los Altos, (650) 948-5700 @movietext:The pocket-sized dining room is neat and bright, a picture of simplicity and uncluttered good taste. Accents are grass green against white. A portrait of a Buddhist monk graces the corner of one wall. A television set playing anything from the Discovery Channel accompanied by classical music to a Chinese soap opera hangs from another. Dining here is cozy, but tables are still far enough apart for private conversation. The extensive menu isn't necessarily exciting or unique. In fact, it doesn't stray from standard Chinese restaurant fare with its share of typical dishes like kung pao chicken, mu-shu prawns and Szechwan shredded beef. Instead, it is the special care that Charley's takes to prepare and serve the food that makes dining there a unique experience. Hours: Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; daily 5-8:30 p.m. $ (Reviewed Sept. 18, 1998)

Chevys Mexican Restaurant, 2907 El Camino Real, Redwood City, (650) 367-6892 @movietext:This giant warehouse of a restaurant lives up to its reputation for fresh Mex food with made-by-the-hour chips, salsa pungent with fresh cilantro and slushy margaritas by the pitcher. Whether you're starving and want a Plato Gordo--mesquite grilled chicken and prawns, warm tortillas, guacamole and rice and beans--or a just a quesadilla and a cold beer, Chevys comes through with the best Mexican food on the Midpeninsula. Fajitas won't resemble those fast food renditions but come piping hot on a metal plate piled with crisp lettuce, bright red tomatoes, slabs of smokey chicken or beef and creamy guacamole. Children are made to feel welcome. Watch out for giant crowds on weekends. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri. and Sat. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs. $ (Reviewed Jan. 3, 1996)

Chez TJ, 938 Villa St., Mountain View, (650) 964-7466 @movietext: Elegant and intimate, Chez TJ offers some of the most delicious and beautifully presented contemporary French cuisine around. In this charming Victorian house, diners are surrounded by fresh flowers, spotless linen and classical music. New chef Kirk Bruderer, of French Laundry in Napa Valley fame, heads a kitchen turning out mostly exquisite dishes, but execution and service were uneven on a recent visit. A new menu is created every two weeks, offering three different prix fixe dinners. The five-course menu gastronomique ($65, or $89 with three wine parings) includes appetizer, first and main courses, salad, selection of cheeses, a petit dessert followed by a larger selection of desserts. The menu moderne ($50), with five courses but fewer choices, and the menu petit ($42), with four courses, are just slightly less filling. Vegetarians are also accomodated. Chocoholics beware, there's a special dessert menu just for you. Dinner seatings only, Tuesday - Saturday, 5:30-9 p.m. $$$$ (Reviewed July 7, 2000).

China Delight, 461 Emerson St., Palo Alto, (650) 326-6065 @movietext:China Delight has been around for about eight years, a well-known alternative to the food of its more incendiary neighbor, Jing Jing, and a component of a perfect downtown Palo Alto evening: a tub of buttered popcorn, a comfy seat at the Aquarius, a quirky film you've been dying to see, then a little movie rehash and debate over dinner in a simple, affordable restaurant. The menu describes its style as "Szechwan Mandarin gourmet" (Szechwan being the hot, spicy school of cooking, Mandarin being not a regional designation but an aristocratic and "Chinese official" cooking style gleaning the best elements from all over China). The menu's focus is on lean meats and still-crisp vegetables in simple preparations that are easy to eat for the chopstick-impaired (read: non-Asians). The food is health-conscious, clean and unfussy. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 5-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 5-9 p.m. Sunday. $ (Reviewed May 29, 1998)

Circadia, 518 Bryant St., through the archway between Ramona and Bryant streets off University Avenue, Palo Alto, (650) 327-8954 @movietext:Circadia is a combination cafe/restaurant owned by the Seattle-based Starbucks coffee chain. Located in Ramona Plaza, set off of University, Circadia has some of the most peaceful, low-exhaust-fume alfresco dining downtown. You can get all the familiar coffee beverages, plus an expanded range of frappuccinos ($2.85 for tall, $3.35 for grande, $3.85 for vente) milkshakes ($3.95) and a full bar. Circadia's wine list is short and appealing, with well-priced California bottlings that cover the gamut of varietals. Breakfast and weekend brunch (same menu) may be the nicest time to stop in. The one-page breakfast menu is egg-intensive, with a couple of omelets ($8.95), frittatas ($8.95) and scrambles ($7.95). Highly recommended is the bread pudding French toast ($7.95), and sunrise and margherita pizzettes ($8.95). Circadia also serves Mediterranean and Caeser salads ($8.95), and has live music. Hours: 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-1 a.m. Friday, 8 a.m.-1 a.m. Saturday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $ (Reviewed May 12, 2000)

Compadres Bar & Grill, 3877 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 858-1141

@movietext:If you crave a good, smooth pitcher of margaritas, a chile relleno or skewer of giant gulf prawns -- and you don't mind crowds, noise and having to wait for a table at prime time -- this establishment is one of the funnest Mexican restaurants on the mid-Peninsula. The menu ranges from traditional Mexican fare such as enchiladas and tacos to more unusual offerings such as mahi mahi a la Vera Cruz. You won't find the true native Mexican cooking of some small family-run eateries, but the food is hearty, service is friendly and efficient and prices are reasonable. Hours: Sun.-Thu. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (bar open until 1:30 p.m. nightly); Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sun. brunch 10 a.m.-2 p.m. $$ (Reviewed June 3, 1994)

The Cook Book Restaurant, 127 Town & Country Village, Pal Alto, (650) 321-7500 @movietext:In the morning, the Cook Book is known for its omelets, blintzes and waffles. At dinner, the restaurant really shines, serving huge portions of Pacific Rim-California cuisine. The broiled, Hawaiian-style salmon ($13 with soup or salad and dessert) almost slid off a scoop of pesto-flavored mashed potatoes. It was saved from a fall by phalanx of grilled pineapple and vegetables, not to mention a dollop of fresh pineapple salsa. Diverse listings run from spicy Thai chicken salad ($7) to fettucini with smoked salmon ($10) to broiled herbed chicken breast with nonfat raspberry yogurt sauce ($9). There are special servings for children under 12. Service is outstanding. Hours: Breakfast Tues.-Sat. 7 a.m.-2 p.m., Sun. and holidays 8 a.m.-2 p.m. $$ (Reviewed June 24, 1994)

Cook's Seafood Restaurant and Market, 751 El Camino Real Menlo Park, (650) 325-0604 or 650-322-2231 @movietext:Even the most health conscious of us must take a walk on the wild side of a deep fryer once in a while. After all, there are certain things, like a crisp and sizzling basket of fish and chips, that you can't get any other way. At Cook's you get more than just fish in a basket. You get some of the freshest seafood found in the Bay Area. And Cook's serves it up deep fried or at its fresh fish market next door. Cook's has been in the same location for nearly 60 years. Because Cook's uses only the highest quality day's catch, the fish is sweet and tender enough that the restaurant uses only the lightest batters and breading to allow the natural flavor of the fish to come through. The restaurant is meticulous about changing the oil, frying the foods at an extremely high temperature and exposing them to the heat for a bare 2-3 minutes, all factors that contribute to less greasy food. Indeed, if you were to peel the crisp batter off the outside of a piece of halibut or shrimp, the seafood would taste almost steamed. Hours: Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Fri., 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-7:30 p.m. $ (Reviewed May 16, 1997)

Cool Cafe, Cantor Arts Center, 328 Lomita Drive, Stanford University, (650) 725-4758 @movietext: You can't beat the European feel of the patio setting at this gem, the latest of Jesse Cool's collection of Peninsula eateries. Diners gaze out over Stanford's Rodin sculpture garden while enjoying the locally grown, in-season and primarily organic dishes Cool is known for. Mainly a lunch spot, Cool Cafe is open for dinner only on Thursdays, when the arts center stays open late. Salads, soup and creative sandwiches are on display at lunch. The gooey broiled cheese baguette, with smoked cheddar, gorgonzola and a tomato pear chutney, may be one of the best sandwiches around. Organic greens are lightly dressed, served with pesto or tapenade bruschetta. Dinner plates are simply prepared to let flavors shine. Roasted chicken, cooked with herbs stuffed under the skin, is moist and delicious. Wild salmon, delivered fresh from the coast, is buttery, topped with a light wine and dill white sauce. Leave room for dessert, as Cool Cafe offers a fine selection of homemade creations from Fat Rascals Cookie Company, and a selection of ports. Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 11 a.m.- 5 p.m.; open late Thursdays until 8 p.m. $ (Reviewed Aug. 18, 2000.)

Dal Baffo, 878 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 325-1588 @movietext:Dal Baffo offers fine northern Italian fare in the heart of downtown Menlo Park. The dinner and lunch menus are laden with Bolognese, Milanese and Florentine delights. Food is a la carte, so you can construct the meal you want. Entrees include seafood, pasta, fowl, veal and red meat, arranged in dishes originating from various Italian provinces. There also is an extensive wine list. Dal Baffo's is not for the cheap or fast-food crowd; a three-course dinner, wine and a tip will come out to about $125 for two, but for sophisticated dining, it's the place to go. Hours: Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2p.m.; dinner Mon.-Sat. 5-10:30 p.m. Closed Sun. All major credit cards accepted, and reservations are recommended. $$$$ (Reviewed June 25, 1993)

Darbar Indian Cuisine, 129 Lytton Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 321-6688 @movietext:Generosity is Darbar's hallmark. Hot potato fritters arrive free of charge while you're reading the menu. Service is generous, too. And the lunch buffet ($7) is a real bargain with more than two dozen items to choose from. Main dishes change daily, but there are always four vegetarian and four meat entrees. The trimmings include buttery rice, creamy lentils, two soups, puffy white nan bread, wafer crisp dosas, three chutneys, salsa, orange wedges, green salad, raita and dessert. Depending on the chef's whim, you get either chicken pakoras or the vegetarian onion version. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner Sunday-Wednesday 5-9:30 p.m., Thursday-Saturday 5-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Jan. 12, 1996)

Dawat Indian Cuisine, 288 Castro St., Mountain View. (650) 968-8956 @movietext:Some are little rubbery squares. Others are syrup-soaked balls. Virtually all of the desserts in the glass case at Mountain View's Dawat Indian Cuisine are foreign and exotic. There are halvas topped with thin layers of gold leaf, fudges and donuts flavored with all manner of unfamiliar doodads, white jellied squares of what looks like tutti-frutti. Castro Street's newest Indian restaurant purveys some of the most exciting and sometimes startling meal-enders along the pan-Asian restaurant row. The rest of a meal at Dawat won't pack many surprises, with standard northern Indian spicy hot curries, cooling yogurts and pungent sauces. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. and 5-10:30 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed April 16, 1999)

Deedee's, 2551 W. Middlefield Rd., Mountain View, (650) 967-3333. @movietext: Located in a non-descript strip mall, homestyle vegetarian Indian cooking is the specialty here. Deedee's makes different main dishes every day from scratch with complex spices and chutneys, and fresh ingredients. Lunch is a bargain, with a buffet full of tempting choices, including a tangy yogurt raita, handmade roti bread, rich pulao rice, and vegetable dishes ranging from chickpeas simmered in tomato sauce to curried potatoes. Don't let the word snack fool you - one is big enough to make a meal. Puri dishes are combinations of lentils, potatoes, garlic and onion, mixed with chutney and yogurt, served with roti or puri, small, puffed fried breads. At dinner, thali dishes, a tray with eight compartments, offer a wide tasting selection, with soup, raita, roti, rice and three vegetables. Don't miss the hot rice pudding, or delectable carrot sweet cooked with sugar, milk and almonds, which reminds one of a carrot cake. Hours: Tue.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.; Sat. 12 p.m.-9 p.m.; Sun 12 p.m.-8 p.m. $ (Reviewed Nov. 10, 2000)

Dinah's Poolside Grill, Dinah's Garden Hotel, 4261 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 493-2844 @movietext:Years ago, when Palo Alto did not issue outdoor dining permits as willy-nilly as it does these days, there were only a small handful of places where diners could enjoy their repasts al fresco. One of these was Dinah's Poolside Grill, an unpretentious little eatery right next to the hotel's postcard-pretty swimming pool. You could get breakfast or a snack there almost all day and linger in the sunshine over plates of eggs, pancakes and toasted English muffins. The venerable hotel still has a lot of charm, and the cafe's location is lush and quite pretty. Striped umbrellas and round white tables rim the immaculate swimming pool courtyard, where reflected sunlight makes mesmerizing patterns on the sidewalks and walls. Hours: 6:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. daily. $$ (Reviewed Sept. 11, 1998)

Don Giovanni Ristorante, 235 Castro Street, Mountain View, (650) 961-9749 @movietext: Don Giovanni Ristorante is a reliable bet for a good dinner and a relaxing evening out. Its deep, mahogany and floral decor is easy on the eyes as well as the mind. The menu is sprawling and the three or four daily specials (generally between $15-$19) are frequently imaginative. They usually include a pasta of the day, a risotto, one or two fish dishes and sometimes veal on a mesquite wood-burning grill. Dinners start with a basket of freshly baked bread served with a garlic-spiced balsamic vinegar and olive oil mix. Salads vary from simple Caesar ($4.95) to insalata Greca ($5.95) with baby spinach, calamata olives and feta, to a basic mixed green ($3.50). The kitchen also prepares a flavorful, buttery-tasting risotto that is likely to please most palates. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 Mon.-Fri.; Dinner, 4:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., until 11 p.m. on Fri.; Weekends, 11:30-11 p.m. Sat., until 10 p.m. on Sun. $$$ (Reviewed Nov. 28, 1997)

Douce France, 93 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, (650) 322-3601 @movietext: Head to Douce France - "sweet France" for fabulous pastries and coffee in the mornings, authentic panini and yummy quiche tarts for lunch, and decadent sweets any other time. Start off your day with croissants - the almond ones are delicious. At lunch, the tomato-basil-mozzarella or proscuitto pressed and grilled panini make a filling, scrumptious meal - and each comes with a tiny jewel, a fruit tart, a perfect bite-sized dessert. The cakes and cookies and petit fours and divinity here are truly divine. Panini are not served on Sundays. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 7 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sun. 8 a.m.-4 p.m. $ (Reviewed Sept. 15, 2000)

Draeger's Market Bistro, 1010 University Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 688-0694 @movietext:The Market Bistro at the tony supermarket offers a security guard's view of the downstairs hustle and bustle. Servers here follow the old coffee shop tradition of quick quips and quicker service. Sandwiches at Market Bistro are not cheap ($7.25-$8), but each is more than a meal in itself. For brunch, the Market Bistro splits its menu between lunch favorites and fancy breakfast dishes. You can get sandwiches, burgers and salads. Or, you can indulge in riches like Eggs Christine, a croissant topped with creamed spinach, leeks, poached eggs, hollandaise and dungeness crab ($9.50). Everything on the menu comes in child-size portions. Hours: Weekday breakfast 7:30 a.m.-11 a.m., lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday brunch 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; call for dinner hours. $ (Reviewed March 24, 1995)

The Duck Club, Stanford Park Hotel, 100 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 322-1234 @movietext:The Duck Club Restaurant in the Stanford Park Hotel in Menlo Park just recently launched a new menu, and is flying high with new chef Hemant Surendran. The service is great, and the food is even better. Recommended dishes include the five onion soup ($5.50), and a warm strudel of Cambazola, pear and pancetta. Governor Stanford's roast duck ($22.75) is still a classic, but the kitchen is equally deft with fish. Desserts are of a piece with the rest of the menu--servings are sensibly sized and well thought out. Hours 6-10:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 5:30-10 p.m. daily; breakfast 6-10 a.m. Sun., brunch until 2 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Apr. 14, 1995)

Elbe German and European Cuisine, 117 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 321-3319

@movietext:Old world German classics blend with new world favorites for a pan-European experience at Elbe. Sure you'll find wiener schnitzel on the menu, but prepared with an Elbe twist, in a beurre blanc sauce. Homemade spatzle (German egg noodles) accompany a traditional rabbit dish simmered In cognac, while potato pancakes side up to sauerbraten. Other dishes on the menu include pastas and poultry. Start off the meal with smoked trout and salmon or baked brie with Black Forest ham. End the meal with apple strudel or German chocolate cake. You'll also find a selection of German as well as California wines. On Friday and Saturday nights, Elbe entertains diners with live accordion music. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11-30 a.m.-2 p.m.; daily 5 p.m.-10 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Jan. 12, 2000)

Empire Grill and Tap Room, 651 Emerson St., Palo Alto, (650) 321-3030 @movietext:A custom-made mahogany bar runs the length of the dining room/bar. Eight oversized booths line the other wall, creating a convivial setup. There are 16 beers on tap, including such rarities as Pilsner Urquell and Anderson Valley Oatmeal Stout. But the real treasure of the Empire is its outdoor patio, a gracious dining room that happens to lack a ceiling. Well-spaced tables are covered with white linens in an atmosphere that is subdued but made friendly by a trickling fountain and rustling greenery. The menu offers a nice cross-section of California homestyle cuisine: meats from an open grill, side dishes like sauteed spinach, mashed potatoes, fries with garlic mayonnaise and roasted new potatoes, fresh fish and such appetizer staples as steamed mussels, carpaccio, grilled polenta and fried calamari. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. $$ (Reviewed March 1, 1996)

Estampas Peruanas, 715 El Camino Real, Redwood City, (650) 368-9340 @movietext: One of the Mid-Peninsula's few Peruvian restaurant offers an enticing range of classic South American dishes that seldom fail to please. The food is rich, complex and sophisticated and features flavorful sauces and subtle combinations. The menu includes a small cross-section of meat and chicken, some vegetarian selections and more than 15 seafood dishes. The portions are large and the service is impeccable. Prices for entrees are in the $10-$15 range. Two of the best dishes are the Perihuela De Mariscos, a fish stew, and Arroz con Mariscos a lo Macho, a gigantic mound of rice with fish and shellfish in a spicy sauce. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. $ (Reviewed July 11, 1997)

Evvia, 420 Emerson St., Palo Alto, (650) 326-0983 @movietext:Greek food is perhaps the most inspiring of all the Mediterranean cuisines--a squeeze of lemon, a sprinkle of oregano, a squiggle of fruity olive oil, and the bright, clean flavors of savory roasted meats and sun-soaked vegetables shine. It is often a study in sublime simplicity. Since its opening in July 1995, Evvia Estiatorio has been the area's most glamorous purveyor of Hellenic cuisine. The Marcus, Frangadakis and Andrianopoulos families have fashioned a hip yet comfortable dining room of rough-hewn beams and warm oak floors, a room decorated with strings of dried peppers, well-used copper pots and old wine barrels put out to pasture. The restaurant is justifiably proud of its whole grilled fish and mesquite-grilled lamb chops, but some of Evvia's vegetables and side dishes can be even more spectacular. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed April 17, 1998)

Fabbro's, 2915 El Camino Real, Redwood City, (650) 368-1491 @movietext:Fabbro's in Redwood City opened its doors in 1933. George Fabbro started the establishment and passed it along to his son, Frank, who just recently turned the reins over to his son, Michael, and his son's fiancee, Julia. To coincide with the changeover, Fabbro's underwent a slick renovation, finished in August. The result is a restaurant with a comfortable, American-bistro feel, including slowly revolving ceiling fans, lots of white linens and deep black-leather booths. The management needs to spend a little time on the food and the service to match the improved decor, however. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Dec. 23, 1994)

Fambrini's Terrace Caffe & Catering Company, 2600 El Camimo Real, Palo Alto, (650) 858-1268 @movietext:Fambrini's Terrace Cafe, located on the second floor of an office building on El Camino Real, has a view that just won't quit. But the food is only so-so. Service is counter-style. Sandwiches are straightforward, and come in a little rattan basket with a wedge of watermelon on the side; we sampled a solid Italian meatball version ($5.95) with melted provolone. The meatballs weren't particularly genius, but as a whole the sandwich hung together nicely. Virginia baked ham ($4.25), hot or cold pastrami ($4.25) and shrimp salad sandwiches (a steal at $3.50) won't win any prizes, but they are all solid efforts at fair prices. The pre-made salads range in price from $2.29 and $3.29 for a half pint. Coffee drinks are extremely affordable (single cappuccino $1.50, latte $1.60) and very competent. A good range of cookies and desserts-fat chocolate chip cookies, peanut butter cookies half-dipped in bittersweet chocolate, one of those gooey chocolate chip and coconut nut bars, squares of carrot cake with a thick hat of cream cheese icing, chocolate Bundt cake with a drizzle of fudge-a greatest-hits list of quintessential American dessert innovations.

Hours: 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday $ (Reviewed April 7, 2000)

Fanny and Alexander, 412 Emerson, Palo Alto, (650) 326-7183 @movietext:A framed poster of the movie that inspired the restaurant's name is the only reminder of Fanny and Alexander's origins as a Scandanavian restaurant. The appellation was suitably evocative when venison and cod cakes were on the menu. But now, it's potentially confusing. Part nightclub, part sports-bar, part happy hour hangout, Fanny and Alexander is more than just a restaurant. The kitchen offers tasty homestyle food cooked with creative flair: BLT on a toasted brioche, a mahi mahi fillet sandwich, warm spinach salad, meatloaf with mashed potatoes, beer-battered onion rings, filet mignon. The outdoor patio is a refuge from the hustle and bustle of downtown. Inside, plant baskets hang from the ceiling and each table is set with a small vase of carnations. The hard-surfaced surroundings--tiled flooring, old brick walls--are attractive, if acoustically unfriendly. Hours: Daily 11:30 a.m.-1:30 a.m. (lunch/brunch service to 1:30 p.m., dinner to 10 p.m.) $$$ (Reviewed April 19, 1996)

Fiesta del Mar Too, 735 Villa St., Mountain View, (650) 967-3525 @movietext:Fiesta del Mar Too is the latest addition to the roster of health-Mex joints. Despite its small menu and fast-food ambience, Fiesta del Mar Too is no run-of-the-mill, chain-store taqueria. The clean airy restaurant is the second venture of Alexandro Garcia, who also owns Fiesta del Mar on Shoreline Boulevard in Mountain View. Like its sister restaurant, Fiesta del Mar Too wants to be known for its shrimp and seafood dishes. Also, don't miss their $3 flan. Hours: Monday-Thursday 10:30 a.m.-11p.m.; Friday-Saturday 10:30 a.m.-midnight; Sunday 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed Aug. 18, 1995)

Frankie, Johnnie and Luigi Too, 939 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View, (650) 967-5384

@movietext:From the garlic-infused Caesar salad to the authentic pizza pie, to the hearty pasta and meat entrees, this lively Italian restaurant is the place to go for generous servings, this lively Italian restaurant is the place to go for generous servings of satisfyingly rich food. Although the size of the restaurant and its menu offerings hae grown in recent years, the quality of the dining experience has remained constant. Highlights include the thick, yeasty-crusted pizza and pasta dishes with succulent sauces. Full dinners run the gamut from tiger prawns sauteed with garlic, shallots, tomatoes and white wine, to New York-style Italian sausage with hot peppers. Vegetarian dishes are starred on the menu, and the restaurant delivers too. Hours: Mon.-Thu. 11 a.m.-1 a.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 a.m.; Sun. 1 p.m.-midnight. $$ (Reviewed March 27, 1991)

Flea St. Cafe, 3607 Alameda de las Pulgas, Menlo Park, (650) 854-1226 @movietext:This totally organic, gourmet kitchen turns out some of the best food on the Peninsula. From tender scallops with enoki and shiitake mushrooms dotted with tiny purple flowers to grilled salmon and mashed potatoes, everything is lovingly prepared and presented picture perfect. California-style fresh takes shape with hints of ethnic cuisines and specials change nightly. Vegetarians will find sumptuous offerings, as will those who love chicken or fish. Salads are made with the most delicate greens, sauces are light and bursting with flavor, fish is ocean-fresh and desserts too good to pass up. Open for lunch Tues.-Fri. from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and dinner Tues. to Sun. 5:30-9:30 p.m. Brunch is served weekends from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed July 12, 1992)

Fresh Latitudes World Cafe, 201 University Ave., Palo Alto (650) 327-9777 @movietext:There's a new attitude at this former World Wrapps location, which has a new name, but retains the same corporate ownership. Bento boxes -- a traditional Japanese way of serving a meal, with each item in its own compartment on a pretty red and black glossy tray - are the hot new item here. In a box you can get one of the classic old World Wrapps bowls or wraps, along with Asian salad, snow peas, chicken potstickers and of course, a fortune cookie. Fresh Latitudes also has a new wrap flavor, Baja veggie, and a new smoothie, Italian vanilla latte, which gives Starbucks a run for its money. The kid-friendly eatery even has a new item, a cheese and marinara pizza fold, on its kids-only menu. Service is prompt and friendly. There's plenty of outdoor seating for primo people- watching. Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 10:30 a.m.-midnight. $ (Reviewed Sept. 8, 2000)

Gaylord, 1706 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 326-8761 @movietext:Gaylord remains in a totally different league from the more modest Indian restaurants that have sprung up all over the Bay Area in the past decade. It's more expensive than most, but it's well worth it if you're looking for the best in Indian food. Gaylord's mesquite-fueled clay ovens work magic not only with leavened breads but also with chicken, lamb and fish. The interior is regally elegant and the wait staff seem to have a sixth sense when it comes to pacing. It is Northern Indian cuisine in its full, multidimensional complexity. The restaurant recently moved after 14 years in the Stanford Shopping Center. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. daily. $$ (Reviewed Jan. 31, 1997)

Global Village Cafe, 209 Castro St., Mountain View, (650) 965-4821 @movietext:Global Village Cafe, which opened at the beginning of 1999 on Castro Street in Mountain View, has a new approach to fusion cuisine. It offers dishes from places all over Europe and Asia, but it's a "separate but equal" strategy. You can have a Caesar salad and an Indonesian chicken satay, but never the twain shall meet. Owners Jim and Preet Dullaghan got the idea for the cafe while traveling throughout Asia and Europe. Their aim is to offer Mountain View a place "where food, travel and technology meet." The technology part is taken care of by a lovely little computer corner with Internet connections, and the decor pays homage equally to the Middle East and Western Europe. Be sure to check out the owners' gorgeous travel photos in the hallway. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed Jan. 29, 1999)

Gombei Japanese Restaurant, 1438 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 329-1799 @movietext:Simple and soul-satisfying Japanese cuisine with a special emphasis on noodle dishes make Gombei unique on the Peninsula. Featured are unusual combinations like large, deep fried balls of mashed potatoes flavored with curry and mushrooms, a croquette of faux crab, fried cutlet and broiled fish or Spanish mackerel steeped in soy and mirin. More traditional dishes include noodle, rice, chicken and egg combinations served in earthenware bowls. Don't forget to look at the specials board. You will occasionally find California Rolls there. It's also been the source of such interesting treats as saki-flavored cod and hot or cold buckwheat noodles (soba) with fried tuna ($8.50). The restaurant doesn't take checks or credit cards. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:00 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed June 7, 1996)

Gordon Biersch, 640 Emerson St., Palo Alto, (650) 323-7723 @movietext:Gordon Biersch has come to represent everything the Silicon Valley singles set seems to want in a restaurant and drinking establishment: terrible acoustics, inventive California cuisine, friendly service, good beer and masses of "beautiful people" milling about. Dean Biersch, the half of the dynamite duo who honchos the kitchen, serves up interesting appetizers, entrees, salads and sandwiches: Roasted Leg of Lamb Sandwich ($7.50), served with rosemary aioli, olive focaccia and brie; and the Marzen Prawn Salad ($8.50), which comes on walnut bread with a side of leeks and red pepper puree, for example. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. weekdays; 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Sat. and Sun. $ (Reviewed Oct. 22, 1993)

Gyros Gyros, 498 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 327-0107 @movietext:Gyros Gyros is a boon to downtown Palo Alto, which until now has been very short on Greek food. Gyros also possess the virtue of portability, making a quick, healthful takeout lunch for the office worker. Gyros, for the uninitiated, is minced meat molded around a spit, slowly roasted, sliced and served on a pita with vegetables. Barebones in atmosphere, Gyros Gyros' strength is in its food. The menu is simple, and features primarily beef and lamb gyros ($5.75), chicken gyros salad ($5.95), moussaka ($7.95) and the spinach pastry, spanakopita ($3.95), among other Greek delicacies. Hours: 11 a.m.- 10 p.m. Sun.-thurs., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri. and Sat. $ (Reviewed Jan. 7, 2000)