Send this story Print this story

Adjust text size

Tasty, but tried
A stalwart of old-school Italian cuisine, Bella Luna could use a kick of vibrancy

by Dale F. Bentson

For seven years, Bella Luna has been serving dependable Italian cuisine in the heart of downtown Palo Alto. Snuggled into a century-old brick building, it sports an interior that hints of moonlit nights in Venice. It is all rather dreamy.

Yet, despite the good food, prompt service and attractive ambiance, I was distressed over the predictability of the menu and the lack of personality afforded the dishes.

In truth, I am a nit picker. I often travel to Europe and try to stay abreast of trends in cooking and dining. I have never eaten at any place in Piedmont, Tuscany, Umbria or Lombardi that serves the kind of cuisine found at Bella Luna, which is purportedly Northern Italian. I extend this criticism to many of our long-established local Italian eateries.

In Italy today, there is more emphasis on complex stocks and reductions instead of creamy sauces. Less saucing allows truer flavors of the food to shine through. There is more roasted than chopped garlic, blanched vegetables instead of steamed, more interesting mushrooms than porcini and crimini. One does not find a laundry list of pasta with every possible combination of meat, seafood or cheese (12 choices at Bella Luna).

This is not to say that the local fare is mediocre. It is quite tasty, in fact, but, it is cuisine passé. All restaurants need not be chic, but as there is an art to cooking, there is an art to eating as well. My palate is simply wearied after years of the tried and true.

That being said, most of my recent experiences at Bella Luna were positive if unexceptional. Diners are immediately presented with a basket of doughy Italian bread with garlicky herb infused olive oil. Would not focaccia be lighter and tastier?

Of the antipasti, bruschetta ($5.95) was toasted bread with finely chopped tomatoes and arugula topped with a drop of two of olive oil. Considering the tastiest tomatoes are out of season, this wasn't bad, with the arugula and olive oil providing most of the flavor.

Creamy polenta and mushrooms ($6.95) were combined with gorgonzola and fontina cheeses. It was a hearty plate, nearly a meal in itself, that would have been greatly helped with better-tasting mushrooms.

The best of the antipasti was the mixed platter for two ($10.95), an attractive assortment of two varieties of olives, bruschetta, mozzarella, tomato slices, calamari, grilled zucchini and grilled eggplant.

Of the pasta, fettuccine, gnocchi and ravioli are all made in-house. Soups are made fresh daily ($5.95) as well. The vegetable rice soup I tried was chock-full of tomatoes, beans, peppers and rice integrated into a pleasing aromatic broth.

Despite my hue and cry, I enjoyed the rigatoni alla carcarata ($11.95). The tube pasta was loaded with chopped mild Italian sausage; roasted red, yellow and green bell peppers; and peas in creamy tomato sauce. It was, perhaps, too mellow a dish that could be ramped up with fresh oregano and spicier meat.

Fettuccine campagnola ($10.50) with artichoke hearts, tomatoes, mushrooms, basil, olive oil and garlic was more comforting than interesting. There was not enough basil to make a statement and no other herbs were evident. The artichoke hearts added some texture but not much flavor.

Of the secondi, the pollo primavera ($13.50) was tame, but otherwise fine, and featured baked breast of chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, spring onions, artichokes and white wine sauce. Everything was fresh-tasting and the portion ample.

I also liked the sautéed pork loin with white wine and fontina cheese in a demi-glaze sauce ($14.50). The sauce was rich and flavorful and was the most interesting of all the sauces I tried at Bella Luna. The plate was replete with fresh vegetables and a scoop of whipped potatoes.

The eggplant parmigiana ($12.50) featured sautéed eggplant layered with mozzarella and parmesan cheeses baked in thick tomato sauce. No surprises, no complaints. It was a substantial, flavorsome, albeit run-of-the-mill dish.

Bella Luna opened in 1999 and is owned by Matt Demirkol and Aziz Dogan, who also operate two restaurants in Burlingame. Bella Luna means "beautiful moon," and the interior reflects that notion with illuminated crescent moons as a recurring theme. On warmer days, the front windows open allowing a few fortunate diners great views of the street as well as inside/outside atmosphere.

The walls are painted in salmon and dusty mustard hues with a midnight blue ceiling. It is an inviting environment by night, but, at midday, many scars are visible in the wearing décor: chips and abrasions on the walls, scuffed chairs with stained upholstery, bathrooms that could use upgrading.

Desserts were in line with expectations. Tiramisu ($6.50) was very creamy and feather-light, with only vague hints of the rum and espresso that it is known for. The cannoli with ricotta cheese ($6) was served too cold, as if it had been prepared some time before and frozen: high in calories, low on the taste-o-meter.

Poached pear ($6) with mascarpone cheese, amaretto and chocolate sauce was a bargain. The fruit was plump and tender, the cheese soft and sticky.

Semifreddo ($5.50) was an eye-appealing but near tasteless mound of frozen vanilla mousse studded with almonds and ribboned with raspberry sauce and chocolate syrup streaks. All desserts are made in-house except the gelato (subsequently misidentified as ice cream on the menu).

While not an in-depth selection, the wine list offers a practical amount of Northern Italian wines as well as California varietals. The prices are very reasonable, in fact, one of the better bargains around. Corkage fee is $12.

The menus of many of our local Italian restaurants have scarce changed in years save for oft-repeated daily specials and seasonally evolved ingredients. Other than décor distinctions, there is scant difference in the menu or quality of these restaurants.

Yet, there seems little impetus to change, no incentive to stretch the chef's abilities, no need to progress any further than the status quo. What artist is content painting the same image over and over?

Italian cuisine is, arguably, the most passionate, personable, and vibrant in the world. Created with love, to be consumed with gusto, it should sing to the senses and its vitality be continually renewed by the chef's spirit.

Bella Luna:

Reservations: yes

Website: bellaluna.org

Credit cards: yes

Parking: city lots

Alcohol: beer and wine

Children: yes

Outdoor dining: no

Party and banquet facilities: no

Take out: yes

Noise level: moderate

Bathroom cleanliness: good

Bella Luna

233 University Ave. Palo Alto (650) 322-1846

Hours: Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

Dinner: Mon.-Thurs. 5-10 p.m.

Friday 5-11 p.m.

Sat. noon-11 p.m.

Sun. noon-10 p.m.