Publication Date: Friday Jul 16, 1999

Restaurant Review: Change of pace

OK, propeller heads of Mountain View, it's been six hours since you've taken a break, and it's still only noon. You're sitting in a climate-controlled cubicle inside some cryptically named computer company that makes cool cyber-somethings for the Internet. The images on the screen are beginning to blur, and the mind is drifting.

Another high-caffeine soda and then back to work? Nah. Productivity can wait. It's time for a complete change of scenery and pace, and in this neck of the woods, there is no better place for it than Lakeside Cafe in Shoreline Park.

Located just a few minutes from the mega industry in the Shoreline area, this picturesque cafe would be a worthwhile destination even if the food couldn't be recommended. That the food is pretty good is a definite bonus.

Formerly a junkyard, hog farm and sanitary treatment plant, Shoreline Park now features a 50-acre sailing lake, 18-hole golf course and seven miles of trails. As one would expect from the name, the cafe is right on the lake, and you can watch the sailboats and board sailers skim across the dark water from prime seats in the sun or shade.

There are a few signs that you are still in Silicon Valley--a generic-looking office building in the distance and well-to-do golfers hitting at Shoreline Links--but mainly, it feels hundreds of miles away from Silicon Graphics and the like. The interior is boathouse basic, but it really doesn't matter, because unless it's raining--OK, pouring--you'll want to eat outside. You must order inside, however, and then wait while the food is brought to your table.

I've heard rumors that the service can be somewhat slow, but that has not been my experience. During a recent visit, one in which I made a somewhat convoluted order, I was surprised at how quickly my food reached the table.

Although not known as a drinking spot, the cafe is a great place to nurse a pint of Gordon Biersch ($3.25) or a glass of red wine. The menu is sandwich-oriented, with a wide range of cold and hot offerings. There are a few salads, but the menu could use some appetizers. Lakeside Cafe is a natural spot for buffalo wings, nachos or chicken strips.

The soup of the day ($2.25 cup; $3.75 bowl) can be quite good, especially if it's a breezy, cool day. I quite enjoyed the creamy asparagus soup, although it needed seasoning. Large slices of asparagus were kept company by a sprinkling of bacon bits in a rich and creamy mix.

After debating the merits of the Asian chicken salad ($6.95)--grilled chicken breast with crispy rice noodles and spicy sesame peanut dressing--I went instead with the Mediterranean spinach salad ($6.95). This large salad nicely combined a generous amount of feta cheese, numerous ripe calamata olives, red onion, crisp cucumber and fresh spinach leaves in a minty vinaigrette.

The french fries, which accompany many of the sandwiches, were served a bit cold, but they were properly browned and crisp, not oily. The sandwiches range from your classic turkey and Swiss on sourdough ($5.95) to eggplant and mozzarella on herbed flatbread ($6.50). I played it pretty safe with a turkey burger and fries ($4.95) and was not disappointed with the well-seasoned ground-turkey patty topped with cheddar cheese and held by an oversized sesame-seed bun.

Feeling the need for a little bit of adventure, I also tried the Crissy ($6.95), and that's the one I would most likely try again on another visit. A piece of tender grilled chicken breast was covered with a decadent amount of melted jack cheese and something called "bell pepper mayo" (think Thousand Island dressing). The whole shebang is then placed between two slices of nicely toasted herbed flatbread.

I must also mention that I saw a squirrel about the size of a small dog at Lakeside Cafe. It sure looked like a regular customer, approaching other diners with no hesitation whatsoever, looking for handouts. It even frightened two skittish children from their table ("Birds I can deal with; squirrels I can't," said the girl, moving to a presumably squirrel-free zone).

I'll be back to Lakeside Cafe, since I usually have no problem with squirrels, but if that sucker goes for my Crissy sandwich, it's in for a fight.

Lakeside Cafe, 3160 N. Shoreline Blvd., Mountain View; 965-1745.

Hours: 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday; 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Atmosphere: As the name suggests, the lakeside location is the real draw. From one of the outdoor tables, you can watch the sailboats glide along the lake at Shoreline Park.

Highlights: Shoot for simple hot and cold sandwiches at Lakeside, served with workhorse fries.

About the owner: Longtime owner Rich Ferrary is also the proprietor of Seaport Court, Oracle's dining facility, so his Silicon Valley roots are deep. Reservations - not necessary Credit cards - yes Parking - lot Beer and wine only - yes Takeout - yes Banquet - no Wheelchair access - yes Highchairs - yes Outdoor seating - yes 

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