Elbe German and European Cuisine, 117 University Ave., Palo Alto, 321-3319
The menu here has all the classics of Central European cooking, and although we may know some of the names (Wienerschnitzel, for example), this does not mean that all of this will be familiar. Care to start your meal with a nice plate of head cheese ($3.95), or perhaps some quail eggs stuffed in mushrooms ($5.95)? The hearty split pea soup is divine, as is the Wienerschnitzel, sauerbraten and potato pancakes. Hungarian goulash ($10.95) comes with spatzle. There's a good variety of German, French and California wines, as well as desserts as only the Germans can do: German chocolate cake and homemade apple strudel with vanilla sauce (available specially packaged for takeout). Live accordion music on some nights. Hours: Lunch 11:30-2 p.m. Mon-Sat.; dinner 5-10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed May 19, 1995)
Empire Grill and Tap Room, 651 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 321-3030
A custom-made mahogany bar runs the length of the dining room/bar. Eight oversized booths line the other wall, creating a convivial setup. There are 16 beers on tap, including such rarities as Pilsner Urquell and Anderson Valley Oatmeal Stout. But the real treasure of the Empire is its outdoor patio, a gracious dining room that happens to lack a ceiling. Well-spaced tables are covered with white linens in an atmosphere that is subdued but made friendly by a trickling fountain and rustling greenery. The menu offers a nice cross-section of California homestyle cuisine: meats from an open grill, side dishes like sauteed spinach, mashed potatoes, fries with garlic mayonnaise and roasted new potatoes, fresh fish and such appetizer staples as steamed mussels, carpaccio, grilled polenta and fried calamari. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. (Reviewed March 1, 1996)
Ephesus, 2639 Broadway, Redwood City, 365-1223
Ephesus (pronounced Ef-es-us) the restaurant, that is, not Ephesus the ancient city, is as close as Redwood City. And the magic in its carpet is that it brings Turkey closer than you think. It's a Turkish-owned restaurant serving Turkish food prepared by a Turkish chef in a delicately Middle Eastern setting put together by a Turkish designer. Lamb is a specialty and comes in many forms--gyros, kabobs, cubes, slices--and is cooked in a variety of ways. Generally, the more carnivorous the dish, the better the result, and all diners are treated to baskets of impeccably fresh, warm, sesame-scented flatbread. Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed Nov. 6, 1998)
Estampas Peruanas, 715 El Camino Real, Redwood City, 368-9340
One of the Mid-Peninsula's few Peruvian restaurant offers an enticing range of classic South American dishes that seldom fail to please. The food is rich, complex and sophisticated and features flavorful sauces and subtle combinations. The menu includes a small cross-section of meat and chicken, some vegetarian selections and more than 15 seafood dishes. The portions are large and the service is impeccable. Prices for entrees are in the $10-$15 range. Two of the best dishes are the Perihuela De Mariscos, a fish stew, and Arroz con Mariscos a lo Macho, a gigantic mound of rice with fish and shellfish in a spicy sauce. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. (Reviewed July 11, 1997)
Evvia Estiatorio, 420 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 326-0983
Evvia advertises itself as Greek. But it's as adventuresome as any Silicon Valley start-up that pushes the envelope, breaks the rules and gives customers exactly what they want. Evvia serves up Greek-flavored dishes loosely inspired by California's fresh cuisine. Partners George and Judy Marcus and Kenny and Angie Frangadakis gathered their families' recipes from the islands of Samos, Crete and, of course, Evvia. They put them in the hands of their chef and told him to go creative. The result is feta and filo, grilled fish and lamb chops, pizza-like "pita," and even Greek-flavored pasta. Purists may be disappointed. But then, Evvia isn't for purists. It's for hedonists. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. Closed Sun. (Reviewed Sept. 8, 1995)
Fabbro's, 2915 El Camino Real, Redwood City, 368-1491
Fabbro's in Redwood City opened its doors in 1933. George Fabbro started the establishment and passed it along to his son, Frank, who just recently turned the reins over to his son, Michael, and his son's fiancee, Julia. To coincide with the changeover, Fabbro's underwent a slick renovation, finished in August. The result is a restaurant with a comfortable, American-bistro feel, including slowly revolving ceiling fans, lots of white linens and deep black-leather booths. The management needs to spend a little time on the food and the service to match the improved decor, however. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m. (Reviewed Dec. 23, 1994)
Fambrini's Terrace Caffe & Catering Company, 2600 El Camimo Real, Palo Alto, 858-1268
Executives in suits, mothers with babies and lunchtime regulars find their way up to Fambrini's Terrace Cafe, tucked away above the Bank of America on El Camino near California Avenue. It's a small cafe with a dozen tables inside and at least that many more outside on a tree-shaded terrace. Through the leaves of the trees, you can see the towers of Palo Alto Square and rooftops of less imposing edifices. The expansive view is quite a contrast to the tiny kitchen where Patty Fambrini and her crew cook up everything from stuffed pork rolls to espresso brownies. Each day, you'll find half a dozen salads, a roster of regular sandwiches and a specials board listing one low-fat entree along with sandwich specials and hot dishes. At breakfast, eggs and toast with either bacon or ham go for $4.25. For morning or afternoon snacks, there are espresso drinks and big Italian sodas. Hours: 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday. (Reviewed Oct. 27, 1995)
Fanny and Alexander, 412 Emerson, Palo Alto, 326-7183
A framed poster of the movie that inspired the restaurant's name is the only reminder of Fanny and Alexander's origins as a Scandanavian restaurant. The appellation was suitably evocative when venison and cod cakes were on the menu. But now, it's potentially confusing. Part nightclub, part sports-bar, part happy hour hangout, Fanny and Alexander is more than just a restaurant. The kitchen offers tasty homestyle food cooked with creative flair: BLT on a toasted brioche, a mahi mahi fillet sandwich, warm spinach salad, meatloaf with mashed potatoes, beer-battered onion rings, filet mignon. The outdoor patio is a refuge from the hustle and bustle of downtown. Inside, plant baskets hang from the ceiling and each table is set with a small vase of carnations. The hard-surfaced surroundings--tiled flooring, old brick walls--are attractive, if acoustically unfriendly. Hours: Daily 11:30 a.m.-1:30 a.m. (lunch/brunch service to 1:30 p.m., dinner to 10 p.m.) (Reviewed April 19, 1996)
Fiesta del Mar Too, 735 Villa St., Mountain View, 967-3525
Fiesta del Mar Too is the latest addition to the roster of health-Mex joints. Despite its small menu and fast-food ambience, Fiesta del Mar Too is no run-of-the-mill, chain-store taqueria. The clean airy restaurant is the second venture of Alexandro Garcia, who also owns Fiesta del Mar on Shoreline Boulevard in Mountain View. Like its sister restaurant, Fiesta del Mar Too wants to be known for its shrimp and seafood dishes. Also, don't miss their $3 flan. Hours: Monday-Thursday 10:30 a.m.-11p.m.; Friday-Saturday 10:30 a.m.-midnight; Sunday 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. (Reviewed Aug. 18, 1994)
Flea St. Cafe, 3607 Alameda de las Pulgas, Menlo Park, 854-1226
This totally organic, gourmet kitchen turns out some of the best food on the Peninsula. From tender scallops with enoki and shiitake mushrooms dotted with tiny purple flowers to grilled salmon and mashed potatoes, everything is lovingly prepared and presented picture perfect. California-style fresh takes shape with hints of ethnic cuisines and specials change nightly. Vegetarians will find sumptuous offerings, as will those who love chicken or fish. Salads are made with the most delicate greens, sauces are light and bursting with flavor, fish is ocean-fresh and desserts too good to pass up. Open for lunch Tues.-Fri. from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and dinner Tues. to Sun. 5:30-9:30 p.m. Brunch is served weekends from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. (Reviewed July 12, 1992)
Gambardella's Ristorante Italiano, 561 Oak Grove Ave., Menlo Park, 325-6989
The atmosphere in this dining room is one of festivity and great food, all made better with generous portions of garlic. White linen and fresh flowers set each table. Giant garlic braids dangle from the ceiling and classical music, often opera, sets the mood. First courses like polenta fritta con porcini e pepperoni--a masterful combination of crispy polenta wedges, mushrooms and peppers--whet the appetite. There is a never-ending supply of tomato and red pepper spread and warm house-made foccacia bread, sublime green salads and pastas and fish specials prepared to perfection. A full range of coffee drinks and a generous wine list featuring Italian selections round out a meal that can only be described as scrumptious. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tues. to Fri. Dinner starting at 5:30 p.m. Tues. through Sun. (Reviewed Feb. 24, 1993)
Garden Grill, 1026 Alma St., Menlo Park, 325-8981
This elegant restaurant makes hasty pudding of all the grousing about British food. Appetizers range from dainty griddled scallops on puffs of smoked salmon mousse to the incomparable "Devils on Horseback"--bacon wrapped prunes stuffed with chutney served on toast points spread with mustard cream sauce. Fresh game dishes are based on tender, ranch-raised elk and deer. Seafood includes the likes of grilled salmon in shellfish sauce or shellfish braised in saffron cream sauce. Portions are ladylike. For a special tea-time treat, try the "cream tea" served with tiny scones, jam and sinful faux clotted cream. The Red Terrier Public House, a cozy pub addition to the restaurant, offers tasty "snack food" such as fish and chips for reasonable prices. Hours for lunch are 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner is from 5:30-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat. (Reviewed May 12, 1995)
Gaylord, 1706 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 326-8761
Gaylord remains in a totally different league from the more modest Indian restaurants that have sprung up all over the Bay Area in the past decade. It's more expensive than most, but it's well worth it if you're looking for the best in Indian food. Gaylord's mesquite-fueled clay ovens work magic not only with leavened breads but also with chicken, lamb and fish. The interior is regally elegant and the wait staff seem to have a sixth sense when it comes to pacing. It is Northern Indian cuisine in its full, multidimensional complexity. The restaurant recently moved after 14 years in the Stanford Shopping Center. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Jan. 31, 1997)
Global Village Cafe, 209 Castro St., Mountain View, 965-4821
Global Village Cafe, which opened at the beginning of 1999 on Castro Street in Mountain View, has a new approach to fusion cuisine. It offers dishes from places all over Europe and Asia, but it's a "separate but equal" strategy. You can have a Caesar salad and an Indonesian chicken satay, but never the twain shall meet. Owners Jim and Preet Dullaghan got the idea for the cafe while traveling throughout Asia and Europe. Their aim is to offer Mountain View a place "where food, travel and technology meet." The technology part is taken care of by a lovely little computer corner with Internet connections, and the decor pays homage equally to the Middle East and Western Europe. Be sure to check out the owners' gorgeous travel photos in the hallway. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 29, 1999)
Gombei Japanese Restaurant, 1438 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 329-1799
Simple and soul-satisfying Japanese cuisine with a special emphasis on noodle dishes make Gombei unique on the Peninsula. Featured are unusual combinations like large, deep fried balls of mashed potatoes flavored with curry and mushrooms, a croquette of faux crab, fried cutlet and broiled fish or Spanish mackerel steeped in soy and mirin. More traditional dishes include noodle, rice, chicken and egg combinations served in earthenware bowls. Don't forget to look at the specials board. You will occasionally find California Rolls there. It's also been the source of such interesting treats as saki-flavored cod and hot or cold buckwheat noodles (soba) with fried tuna ($8.50). The restaurant doesn't take checks or credit cards. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:00 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. daily. (Reviewed June 7, 1996)
Gordon Biersch, 640 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 323-7723
Gordon Biersch has come to represent everything the Silicon Valley singles set seems to want in a restaurant and drinking establishment: terrible acoustics, inventive California cuisine, friendly service, good beer and masses of "beautiful people" milling about. Dean Biersch, the half of the dynamite duo who honchos the kitchen, serves up interesting appetizers, entrees, salads and sandwiches: Roasted Leg of Lamb Sandwich ($7.50), served with rosemary aioli, olive focaccia and brie; and the Marzen Prawn Salad ($8.50), which comes on walnut bread with a side of leeks and red pepper puree, for example. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. weekdays; 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Sat. and Sun. (Reviewed Oct. 22, 1993)
Following are condensed versions, in alphabetical order, of longer restaurant reviews published in the Weekly over the past several years. This week's reviews begin where the list ended one week ago.
Hangen Szechuan Restaurant, 134 Castro St., Mountain View. 964-8881.
This simple restaurant features some of the best Chinese food for the price in Mountain View, a city with many Chinese restaurants. Among appetizers, the pot stickers are a house favorite and for good reason. There is also a mouth-watering selection of cold appetizers such as Chinese chicken salad, cold shredded chicken with peanut butter sauce, and wine flavored chicken. Hangen Szechuan offers a fine array of main dishes, covering all the usual territories from shrimp and scallops to beef and pork. The restaurant also serves a variety of tofu and vegetarian courses. Among the house specialties are General Teou's Chicken, deep fried chicken sauteed in a sweet-sour, brownish sauce; kung pao scallops, tender and juicy Canadian scallops stir-fried with peanuts in a spicy brown sauce; prawns in walnut cream sauce, lightly fried prawns stir mixed with a cream sauce; and the Emerald Shrimp. Hours: Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:15 a.m.-2 p.m., Sat. & Sun. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner daily 5-9:30 p.m. (Reviewed Nov. 7, 1997)
Healthy Choice, 151 California Ave., Palo Alto, 326-7886
This buffet-style restaurant specializes in Middle Eastern cuisine. The buffet consists of 36 hot dishes, ranging from simple basmati rice to fiery chicken curry; most of the offerings are traditional Persian dishes, and about half the selections are vegetarian. The buffet costs $6.99 at lunch and $7.99 for dinner. Kebabs are a specialty of the house ($2-$5 extra) and are composed of an attractive array of tender marinated beef, chicken, lamb or vegetables. The buffet is extremely generous, and many of the traditional recipes are offered in a meatless version. Many of the dishes use olive oil and skinless chicken, although the generally rich, heavy cuisine is not exactly what you would call low-fat. Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Sunday. (Reviewed Feb. 13, 1998)
Higashi West, 636 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 323-9378
Higashi West's expansion and remodeling have been a long time coming. The restaurant has doubled in size, annexing the vacated storefront next door. The space is now an enormous rectangle topped by soaring 25-foot ceilings with lots of exposed ductwork, rough unfinished beams and a mess of black Italian track lighting. A forest of black lacquered bamboo sculptures separate the old space from the new space. The restaurant has for years catered to an urbane group charmed by its seamless but still ironic East/West cuisine. (A largely Japanese restaurant serving a Caesar salad is not a joke, but it's not not a joke, either--and that's what the regulars understand.) There are exotic sushi specials every night, but the bulk of the menu is made up of what they call "cold tsumami" dishes and "hot tsumami" dishes and a list of house sushi specials. Hours: Monday-Saturday 5:30-10 p.m. (Reviewed Dec. 25, 1998)
Hunan Garden, 3345 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 565-8868
There are no Chinese zodiac placemats to provide tableside instruction on the compatibility of the rat, pig, dog or monkey. There are no paper lanterns or peculiar bits of Chinese cultural jetsam. Hunan Garden is all about stylish good taste. Opened in 1998, it may well be the prettiest Chinese restaurant on the Peninsula. Designed by San Franciscan Bruce Yelaska, the dining room is spare and uncluttered, with an uncanny use of color and texture. And here's the kicker: The food is just as refined. The classics are all here (lemon chicken, mushu pork), but the spareribs with spicy salt, soft fried tofu (brought in from San Francisco every day) and heads-on spicy shrimp are not to be missed. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 4:30-9:30 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Oct. 9, 1998)
Iberia, 290 Ladera Country Shopping Center, Portola Valley, 854-1746
Iberia serves cuisine with all the macho flair you'd expect from a restaurant in Spain. Sauces come crunchy with almonds and dense with unusual combinations of spices. But there are elegant feminine touches in the pastry and dessert list. If you're used to California's "happy camper" style of service, you may find the brusque professionalism of Iberia's staff either antiseptic or intimidating. The garden is certainly one of the prettiest outdoor eating spots in our area. The food is expensive, but exquisite. Hours: Lunch from 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; for dinner from 5:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Sun.; and for brunch on Sun. from 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Reservations advised. (Reviewed Sept. 10, 1993)
Il Fornaio Cucina Italiana, 520 Cowper St., Palo Alto, 853-3888
Mirrored walls, a glamorous Italian bar and courtyard filled with flowers highlight this flashy and attractive Italian cafe and restaurant. With an over-full house to care for, dinner servers whisk by, intimidating diners into asking as little as possible. But the food lives up to the restaurant's tony reputation. Il Fornaio's big attraction any time of day is its breads. Each table gets a full basket of crisp bread sticks, salty rosemary rolls or whatever has just come out of the oven. An ever-changing menu keeps the kitchen staff from taking anything for granted. Always make a reservation. Hours: Monday-Thursday 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Friday 7 a.m.-midnight, Saturday 8 a.m-12 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m.-11 p.m. (Reviewed March 11, 1994)
i Fratelli, 388 Main St., Los Altos, 941-9636
As you approach, the aroma of garlic draws you nearer. And the bright, bustling atmosphere, open kitchen and upbeat staff make for lively dining. The possibility of sitting outside at one of a handful of small tables on a warm spring evening is a plus. I Fratelli's menu changes approximately every six weeks or so, with a range of pastas and risottos. Dishes usually aim for simple, straightforward contemporary Italian flavors: Roasted whole garlic with focaccia, tortellini studded with artichoke hearts and veal scaloppine. Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (Reviewed May 8, 1998)
Janta Indian Cuisine, 369 Lytton Avenue, Palo Alto, 462-5903
Janta calls the bluff of Indian restaurants that have gotten lazy. This tiny restaurant cooks everything from scratch. Even the lowly garbanzo bean is roasted before it's boiled. It's attention to detail that gives Janta's dishes their flavor highs. Janta's finesse with spices means dishes don't have to depend on chilis for flavor. One of the best mild offerings is shrimp biryani, an exotically-flavored rice pilaf studded with tender shrimp and cashew nuts ($11.95 dinner). Hours: Monday-Friday lunch buffet from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Tuesday-Saturday dinner from 5:30-10 p.m.; Sunday and Monday dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday brunch buffet noon-3 p.m. Lunch buffet is $6.49. Brunch buffet is $7.49. (Reviewed April 29, 1994)
John Bentley's Restaurant, 2991 Woodside Road, Woodside, 851-4988.
On the outside, the 75-year old building is as quaint as what it once was--Woodside's original old firehouse. On the inside, it is an upbeat, intimate dining experience with a contemporary American menu that isn't afraid to have fun with flavors. Throughout the menu, a medley of fruits, nuts and vegetables coalesce to complement main dishes and appetizers that range from the surprising to the sublime. There is a little of everything on the entree menu: fish, seafood, poultry, lamb, beef, veal, venison and pasta including a nice artichoke and caramelized onion ravioli ($15.95) for the vegetarian. The restaurant is always humming so you'll need to make weekend reservations two or three weeks in advance, although things soften up some during the week. And John Bentley's has an equally interesting lunch menu full of sandwiches, entrees, salads and starters. Hours: Tuesday-Friday lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Tuesday-Sunday dinner 5-9 p.m. (Reviewed April 25, 1997)
Jose's Caribbean Restaurant and Night Club, 2275 El Caminoqe Real, Palo Alto, 326-6522
Jose's is something of an institution and one of the few places on the Peninsula where you can dance to live reggae or rhythm and blues, sip fancy rum drinks and sample South American and Caribbean cuisine, from Cuban ropa vieja, to grilled alligator from New Orleans and jerk chicken from Jamaica. It's comfortable, friendly and a bit worn around the edges. It also attracts one of the most diverse clienteles on the Peninsula: preppies in khaki shorts, young men with dreadlocks, middle-aged suburban couples, neo-hippies in tie-dye. Servings are large. Lovers of fiery foods can try the chicken creole sausage ($8.95), grilled catfish with jerk seasoning ($13.50), Peruvian chicken ($10) and smoked barbecue baby back ribs ($13.50 for a half rack). Hours: Lunch served 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday. Dinner served 5-11 p.m. Monday-Friday and 5-10 p.m. Sunday. Live music starts at 9:30 p.m. Thursday-Saturday. Cover charge on some nights. (Reviewed April 5, 1996)
Kamei Japanese House, 240 Castro St. Mountain View, 964-6990
Kamei has a large menu that goes beyond the usual teriyaki, tempura and sushi, and is one of the few Japanese restaurants in the Bay Area that features "robata" cuisine, or Japan's version of barbecue. The combination dinners encourage trying some of this unfamiliar, but delicious cuisine. Besides the usual miso soup and small green salad, our meal consisted of a series of small plates put on the table individually. The first batch consisted of a small portion of nicely cooked salmon, a plate of tiny ribs and flat, black mushrooms in a slightly sweet, slightly sticky sauce. The robata style ("by the fireside") serves this kind of food well. The small portions cook quickly, preserving maximum freshness and taste. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri., noon-2:30 p.m. Sat., no lunch on Sun.; Dinner 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs. and Sun.; 5-11 p.m. Sat. (Reviewed April 28, 1995)
Krung Siam Thai Cuisine, 423 University Ave., Palo Alto, 322-5900
@moviestext:Krung Siam was bold enough to open its doors practically across the street from the well-established Siam Royal and now appears poised to give the other Thai eatery a run for its money. Both serve up a good Siam-style dinner, but there's just something about Krung Siam. A touch of idiosyncratic charm pervades the place, as it has each of the restaurants that have occupied its space, most recently Kyoto Sushi. On a busy night, diners are plentiful and service is hectic. There are all of the Thai menu regulars, plus some exotics like Angel Wings (boneless chicken wings stuffed with chicken breast and sweet and sour sauce) and Heart Girl (a whole prawn stuffed with ground pork.) Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Dinner daily 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed Nov. 27, 1998)
Kyoto Sushi, 423 University Avenue, Palo Alto, 322-5900
This utilitarian Japanese diner serves good, if undistinguished, sushi and other Japanese specialities in a prime Palo Alto location that used to be occupied by All Seasons Restaurant. The sushi is fresh, well-wrapped, and served at reasonable prices. The California Roll costs $1.95 for three pieces. The Ebi (one piece split in two for $2.50) was quick-cooked and tender, and the Tekka Maki ($2.75) was made from the firm flesh of a fresh piece of tuna. Service at dinner is friendly but harried. Hours: Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. (closed 3-5 p.m.); closed Sun. (Reviewed Aug. 22, 1997)
Lakeside Cafe, 3160 N. Shoreline Blvd. (by the lake at Shoreline Park), Mountain View, 965-1745
The cafe is bright and cheery, but the best place to sit is outside on the patio, next to the lake. Head chef Koetsu Akasaka, a classically trained chef, worked under Alice Waters and had a stint at Palo Alto's Empire Grill & Tap Room. The challenge at Lakeside is to have a menu that appeals to both the Silicon Valley workers who frequent the cafe for lunch and the families who visit Shoreline Park on weekends. Thus, you can order a cheeseburger or grilled eggplant on focaccia, peanut butter and jelly or pasta with rock shrimp and asparagus. It's eclectic, but it works. The lunch menu offers hot and cold sandwiches, salads, several pasta dishes and a daily pizza special. Weekday breakfast at the cafe is limited to bagels, muffins and other pastries, but on weekends your choices expand to include egg dishes, pancakes, waffles and granola. Hours: 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday (pastries 9-11 a.m., lunch 11 a.m.-4 p.m.); 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday (breakfast 9-11:30 a.m., lunch 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m., snacks 4-5 p.m.) (Reviewed Feb. 9, 1996)
Left at Albuquerque, 445 Emerson Ave., Palo Alto, 326-1011
Left at Albuquerque's concept can only be described as some kind of blend of West, Mex, Tex, Mex-Tex, West-Mex, Des-West (is desert food a genre yet?) and Cal. The result something akin to nouveau Southwest. They've got a great, bright decor that unabashedly mixes hubcabs with horse stuff, and a menu that doesn't see the irony in dishes like Tierra del Fuego Caesar salad and chili relleno tempura. Thanks to clever use of spinach, radish powder and corn powder, the tortillas come in vivid shades of green, yellow and orange--exactly the same colors as the walls and upholstery. Rice is green. Beans are black. And the chips, a mix of blue and orange, look as though they were arranged in the basket by a decorator. Great drinks; 88 kinds of tequila. Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed June 2, 1995)
Left Bank, 635 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, 473-6543
Executive chef/co-owner Roland Passot has owned La Folie, one of the Bay Area's most highly regarded bastions of French fare, before pairing up with Edward Levine (former CEO for Gordon Biersch Brewing Company and CFO of Il Fornaio) to open this chic, casual French bistro on the main drag in Menlo Park. What they are calling "cuisine grand-mere" translates as expertly prepared steak frites, roast chicken, bouillabaise, tarte Tatin and so forth--French comfort food. Left Bank's mixologists also whip up some mean cocktails. Designed by San Francisco architect Michael Guthrie, the restaurant's interior is chic, breezy and comfortable. Lots of light and a kind of bustling professionalism along the long open kitchen make the dining room at once casual and urbane. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday and Monday; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday. (Reviewed Sept. 5, 1998)
Little India Restaurant, 2606 Broadway, Redwood City, 361-8737
Here, diners don't have to waste time perusing a menu. There isn't one--just a good, mixed-bag buffet that consists of whatever owner and chef Manoj Chopra feels like making that day. Staples you'll always find include basmati rice pillau, salad with cucumber and tomato, raita (spiced yogurt dressing), vegetable pakora (vegetable fritters), bapadum (pepper cracker) and an array of chutneys. All meals come with a generous basket of nan. Neither do people have to spend time calculating cost and tax. Only three numbers matter: $5.95, $5.99 and $7.95. At lunchtime, $5.99 buys everything. At dinnertime, $5.95 buys everything vegetarian while $7.95 buys everything. Hours: Lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; closed Sun. (Reviewed March 10, 1995)
Lisa's Tea Treasures, 1145 Merrill Street, Menlo Park, 326-8327
Lisa's is set in a Victorian building across from the Menlo Park train station, but it's a world away from the rush of daily commutes. This haven of civilized domesticity pulls you back to the days when ladies had entire afternoons to fill with leisurely chats. You won't be disappointed if you come here to play a role in an antique ritual, or simply visit quietly with a friend. But if you're really interested in food, you should know that many of the tiny sandwiches, scones and the like are not prepared in-house. The menu at Lisa's lists 18 combinations of tea and edibles ($5.50-$14): an Irish-style spread called "Her Majesty's Trust," a Indian combination called "The Rajah's Prize" and so forth. Hours: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. daily (Reviewed Feb. 3, 1995)
Luxie-Q BBQ Restaurant, 888 Willow Road, Menlo Park, 566-9850
Renea Thomas is paying homage to two of the great schools of barbecue: Texas and soul food. After working as a stockbroker for 20 years, she got the barbecue bug and opened Luxie-Q. The restaurant itself is not much to look at. A clean little box with four tables, fresh cafe curtains and a couple of prints on the wall, the restaurant seems to do most of its business in takeout. The baby-back ribs, the barbecue beef sandwich and the hot link provide a sampling of the house's signature barbecue sauce--while not tomatoey and sticky like a Texas-style sauce, it has the tang and sweetness of one from the Lone Star state. As in a soul food sauce, there's a little heat on the back end, and the meat itself draws flavor from a marinade and goes a little light on the smoke. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday; noon-5 p.m. Sunday. (Reviewed Jan. 15, 1999)
Mac's American Grill, 325 Main St., Los Altos, 941-0234
After more than 50 years of operation, Mac's American Grill (formerly Mac's Tea Room) has certainly developed its own niche. This old-style, old boy dining room takes patrons back to the days of meat and potatoes. Standard fare at the well-loved steakhouse includes great slabs of perfectly cooked prime rib, porterhouse steaks and steak sandwiches, along with generous hamburgers. House pastas are mundane and sometimes overcooked, but the cheesecake is great. Lunch specials will remind you of mom's cooking with meatloaf and beef burgundy to rival home. Sit in comfortable booths or enjoy one of the oldest and best bars in the area. Open lunch: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner: Mon.-Sat. 5:30-9:30 p.m., Sun. 5-8:30 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 17, 1997)
MacArthur Park, 27 University Ave., Palo Alto, 321-9990
This classic American restaurant features a core menu that hasn't changed for years--and there's no reason to do it now. Baby back ribs remain a staple, served with a pile of cole slaw and crisp fries. The restaurant also features tasty regional fare, an extensive wine list, good desserts, and attractive outdoor seating. MacArthur Park is located in a landmark structure designed by architect Julia Morgan. Open Mon.-Fri. 5:30 -10:30 p.m.; Sat. and Sun., 5-10 p.m.; Sun brunch, 10 a.m.-2p.m.; Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (Reviewed Oct. 18, 1996)
The Mandarin Gourmet, 420 Ramona St., Palo Alto, 328-8898
Distinctive Chinese cuisine is the focus of this sophisticated dining room. While dishes are on the expensive side, the quality and presentation justify the price. Prawns with fresh asparagus, crispy eggplant and a fresh chicken salad are all stand out choices. Lunch specials include egg roll, hot and sour soup and crunchy fried won ton skins along with rice and an entree--a good deal for $6-8. The atmosphere is elegant, with business crowd at lunch, a little more dressy in the evening. Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner 5-10 p.m. seven days a week. (Reviewed Oct. 11, 1996)
Mango Cafe, 435 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, 325-3229
Palo Alto's popular Mango Cafe represents an oasis for those looking to loosen the tie, roll up the pant cuffs and dine on authentic island dishes. This Caribbean restaurant is laid-back almost to a fault. Lose the Silicon Valley mood when you enter or you'll surely get a bit ticked by the loose attitude, which can translate into slow service. But it's the islands, mon, and the surf won't really get rolling for hours. There's no reason to rush here. So chill and grab a smoothie (for a taste of coconut, go with the Treasure Beach, which also has pineapple and banana) and an order of curried or jerked joints--that's chicken drummettes redolent of zingy Caribbean curry or rubbed with chiles, thyme and onion. Hours: Monday-Thursday 6-9:30 p.m.; Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 6-10 p.m.; Saturday 6-10 p.m. (Reviewed Oct. 2, 1998)
Max's Opera Cafe, 711 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, 323-6364
This wildly popular cafe and bar serves up enormous portions at modest prices. A three-inch high chicken liver on rye and homemade chicken soup top the list of comfort food straight from a New York deli. Huge salads laden with slivers of tender chicken breast, bacon, mushrooms and every vegetable imaginable crowd one side of the lengthy menu. Entrees include pasta, roasted chicken and burgers of every description. Desserts are calorie-heavy but worth it--a fudge brownie served warm with vanilla ice cream and hot fudge sauce is among the best. Opera-singing waiters and waitresses and a boisterous crowd can make for noisy evenings. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. to Thurs., until 11 p.m. Fri. and Sat. nights. (Reviewed Jan. 1, 1992)
Mediterranean Bistro, 1077 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 321-3300
Owner-chef Spyro Zissos is a mature talent who has cooked his way around the Mediterranean, to say nothing of San Francisco and the Peninsula. Zissos is Greek by birth. That accounts for the crisp spanakopita and tiropita on his appetizer menu, as well as pastitsio and moussaka on his entree list. He got his formal education at a French culinary academy in Egypt. But his knowledge of classic cuisine didn't spoil his appetite for local specialties such as kofta, or broiled marinated ground lamb. Two apprenticeships in Italy defined Zyssos's taste in the classic dishes of that country. Don't be surprised to find pollo marsala and fettuccini primavera on his menu alongside humus or cucumber and yogurt served with fresh mint. Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Closed Monday. (Reviewed June 9, 1995)
Mediterranean Wraps, 425 California Ave., Palo Alto, 321-8189
Good, quick Mediterranean food at low prices. This whole-in-the-wallI offers a classic mixture of simple Jordanian and Lebanese fare mixed with a bit of Greek. There is a Falafel ($3.95) with Mediterranean salad, Deluxe Falafel ($4.45) with fresh cooked eggplant and potato, and the classic Shawerma ($4.99), with its thin marinated sliced lamb and beef, served with broiled tomatoes, parsley, onion, tahini, hummus and lavash (a savory flat Middle-Eastern bread). One look at the menu and you quickly discover that it is almost impossible not to eat healthy at Mediterranean Wraps. The cooks are not big on heavy meals and greasy foods. Everything is prepared seasonal and fresh and most of it comes with a salad. Hours: Open daily 10 a.m.-8 p.m. (Review Oct. 10, 1997)
Menlo Java & Juice Bar, 1083 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 328-2407
Menlo Java & Juice shares a tiny space with a Mexican restaurant. There's not much room for relaxed dining, but the eatery has a small menu full of bargains. The entrees are all under $4.25. There's a thick vegetarian torta flavored with goat cheese, and full of eggplant, spinach, egg, and red peppers. Pasta is another specialty of the house. Sandwiches are all under $3. The juice drinks and smoothies are divine. Big, gooey homemade desserts make the list of good, fresh food. Since Menlo Java and Juice is open until 11 every night except Sunday, it's a great place to go after the movies for ice-cream-topped treats. Hours: 8 a.m.- 11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday (Reviewed March 3, 1995)
Mikado, 161 Main St., Los Altos, 917-8388
Mikado is a serene and comfortable Japanese restaurant with a row of roomy booths, two tatami rooms and stalks of bamboo climbing up walls painted a deep watermelon red. Some waitresses wear kimonos. In addition to a full sushi bar, the causually elegant Mikado also serves a tantalizing array of Japanese cusine, from the tried-and-true teriyaki dishes to some more exotic delights: ika natto (squid with fermented soybeans) ($6.30), shishamo (broiled Japanese lake smelt) ($3.80) and maguro mugitoro yamakake (tuna with grated mountain potato) ($6.50). Although there are plenty of items on the menu to sway your attention away from the large and very fresh sushi selection, sushi is the specialty here. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Closed Monday. (Reviewed Jan. 26, 1996)
Mike's Cafe Etc., 2680 Middlefield Road, Palo Alto, 473-MIKE.
With a menu that includes a plethora of dishes such as chicken piccata, veal scaloppine, lasagna, bruschetta, rigatoni and linguini with tiger prawns, you would usually be safe in assuming that the restaurant is Italian. Usually. The menu is from Mike's Cafe Etc., the popular eatery that dominates the Midtown Palo Alto culinary scene. Owner Mike Wallau has been in the restaurant business for a quarter century and has decided simply to serve his favorite dishes. Many of the dishes are Italian. Some aren't. The common factor is that Mikey likes them (sorry, couldn't resist). If the weather permits, grab a table outside. Otherwise, try to get a table near the big windows of this comfortable family-style joint. Hours: Monday-Friday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. (Reviewed July 3, 1998)
La Morenita, 800 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 329-1727
With a menu based on the regional cooking of Michoacan, La Morenita ("the little brown girl") brings a new culinary element to a city that has become top-heavy with Italian and bottom-heavy with burrito joints. Here you find good, plain food, simply served. Anything with green sauce is worth ordering. The carne asada is a good choice. The thin strip of steak filet is grilled, then smothered with green sauce. Most dinners come with rice, beans, tortillas, slices of lime and guacamole. They also have hamburgers, BLT's, sandwiches and fries. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat. 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 9 a.m.-9 p.m. (Reviewed July 29, 1994)
Miyake, 140 University Ave., Palo Alto, 323-9449
Now located two blocks down the street from its tiny original location, the new Miyake is tony and huge. Brass light fixtures throw a soft light around the room, white walls add a touch of class. But leave it to Miyake to impart a carnival atmosphere anyway: rainbow-colored rotating lights, wavy glass with aqua lighting under the sushi bar, and the same yelling chefs, yelling waiters, blaring music, loud uniforms, circulating sushi boats and hoards of college students. Miyake has a dizzying array of options, including traditional cooked Japanese dishes. You'll probably never be able to try all the different rolls the restaurant makes. Ultra-fussy sushi buffs might sniff at certain aspects of Miyake. The chicken teriyaki and unagi can get cool after a few trips around the boats and purists will probably never accept imitation crab. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed March 29, 1996)
Naomi Sushi Pasta Grill, 1328 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 321-6902 Despite its East/West aspirations, there is plenty that's purely Japanese about Naomi Sushi. The short menu has classic bento boxes, chicken, vegetarian, grilled salmon and chef's specials ($10.95-$13.50), teriyakis like beef sirloin ($12.95), chicken ($10.50), or unaju (cooked eel over rice $13.50), and it offers a full measure of delicate appetizers and salads. But it doesn't stop there. Under a section called "pasta" you will find linguine mixed with seafood and mushrooms ($10.50) and a pasta of the day such as linguine with shrimp, mushrooms, and clams ($6.95 at lunch) along with the traditional steaming bowls of udon ($6.95-$8.50). Overall, the Japanese/Italian combo works well with most dishes. Of particular note are the salads, which have a wonderful homemade dressing, and the grilled chicken udon soup. Hours: Lunch, Tuesday-Friday 11:30-2:30; Dinner, Tuesday-Sunday 5:30-10:00; (Monday closed). (Reviewed Dec. 26, 1997)
Nola, 535 Ramona St., Palo Alto, 328-2722
Nola is made up of a warren of little rooms full of pleasant visual surprises. The eye-popping mustard, purple and turquoise walls are decorated with masks and artifacts that just smack of Voodoo Country, including several terrific folk paintings that the owners snapped up on a shopping trek to New Orleans. The heart of the restaurant is the rustic, open-to-the-sky patio, which is framed by second-story balconies. Nola (it stands for New Orleans, LA) dishes out an interesting mix of Cajun, Creole, Caribbean and Southwestern fare. Instead of presenting the spicy standards that are traditionally associated with New Orleans menus, such as etouffee, jambalaya and gumbo, Nola serves an eclectic and creative cross-section of dishes that certainly qualify as "fusion" cuisine. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 5:30-11 p.m. and Sunday 5:30-9 p.m. (Reviewed Aug. 30, 1996)
Nouveau Trattoria, 541 Bryant St., Palo Alto, 327-0132
Owner and chef Annie Nunan prepares French dishes alongside Nick Ortega, the Trattoria's longtime chef at this reincarnation of the old Trattoria Romana. The mood is classy, but still casual, with live jazz music on some nights. Servers don't know whether you'll be dining French or Italian style, so they bring out butter and olive oil to go with your bread. The wine list is bicultural, too. Rich sauces are the hallmark of the French specialties; the onion soup topped with nutty Gruyere is a good bet. There are also a number of fine pasta dishes, as well as pizza. Family-style Basque dinners ($15.50) on Wednesday and Thursday evenings. Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5:30-10 p.m. (Reviewed April 2, 1993)
Ocean Garden Dim Sum & Seafood Restaurant, 701 El Camino Real, Redwood City, 368-8288
If you've never eaten dim sum, Ocean Garden is an excellent place to start your adventure. Come on a weekday, when fewer tables order dim sum and servers bring trays straight from the kitchen to your table. Servers are eager to show what's hidden under the lids of their miniature steamer baskets and metal containers. While novices will enjoy the patient attention they get from servers on weekdays, dim sum veterans will want to wait for weekends. Ocean Garden's total repertoire includes 42 different treasures. You'll find a wider variety and more culinary flair on weekends. Hours: Dim sum 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, dinner all week 3-9:30 p.m. (Reviewed Feb. 17, 1995)
Oregano's Wood-Fired Pizza
Sure, the pizzas are abundant, but don't let a full menu page of them distract you. Underneath all that pizza talk, you will find some gems of pasta dishes and at least a couple of mouth-watering salads. If you do come to Oregano's for pizza, you probably won't be disappointed. No matter what concoction you dream up, chances are there will be some variation of it on the menu. Say, cheeseburger pizza, for instance. Decor at Oregano's is pleasant with oak tables and chairs and a warm, polished granite bar. It's part family restaurant, part pub. The bar serves 20 different kinds of beer, with seven of them on tap, most from microbreweries. Oregano's has got the formula down as well as any chain. It looks like a chain, it feels like a chain, but it's one of a kind. The service is friendly and consistent. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 4-9 p.m. (Reviewed Sept. 5, 1997)
Osteria, 247 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, 328-5700
There always seems to be a crowd of people waiting to get into Osteria, and reservations at dinner are a must. The bustling dining room captures the feel of a small neighborhood trattoria in Florence. Don't come to Osteria for Tuscan cooking--even though that's what their sign says. Rather than the simple and elegant fare associated with the Tuscan kitchen, the menu features the fare found in thousands of American "Italian" restaurants: veal scaloppine, carpaccio, prosciutto with melon and fettuccine Alfredo. Generally, everything is well-prepared, tasty, generous in portion and reasonably priced. A short wine list. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun. (Reviewed May 14, 1993)
Palermo Rotisserie, 452 University Ave., Palo Alto, 321-9908
You could go someplace fancier, or fussier, or more chichi, but most of the time you wouldn't want to. There is nothing trendy about Palermo: no pumpkin-ricotta cannoli, no linguini with Thai chicken, no morel-stuffed ravioli. One deep breath in says it all: garlic, basil, red wine, parmesan, yeast, tomatoes, olive oil. The tiny restaurant, with 24 tables set inches apart, has a casual, cluttered feeling. There are brightly-colored posters Italy on the walls and cheerful, hand-painted crockery overhead. At night, the wood-fire oven filled with roasting chickens blazes at the back of the restaurant, casting a warm glow over the room. There's a great all-you-can-eat lunch buffet for $8.95. Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed Feb. 23, 1996)
Palo Alto Joe's, 3750 Fabian Way, Palo Alto, 493-3101
The name conjures up images of big bowls of minestrone and piles of spaghetti crowned with meatballs. While such favorites still have a place on this restaurant's menu, chef Rick Vargas is striving to grow beyond the other "basic North Beach Italian" dishes that have been the tradition at Joe's: oven-roasted king salmon with sun-dried tomato pesto, Sicilian olives and basil ($13.95), baked polenta lasagne ($4.95) and more. The restaurant even has its own garden behind the restaurant, producing everything from tomatoes to haricots verts. Hours: Mon. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Tues-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat. 5-10 p.m.; Sun. 5-9 p.m. (Sept. 2, 1994)
Palo Alto Sol, 408 California Ave., Palo Alto, 328-8840
This funky, yet charming restaurant features a hand-written, two-sided monster of a menu, and is owned by Hector and Helena Sol, who branched off from another family enterprise, La Fiesta on Villa Street in Mountain View. With brightly painted wooden fish hanging from the ceiling and works by local artists decorating the walls, Palo Alto Sol, which specializes in cuisine from around the city of Pueblo in south-central Mexico, comes off as part goofy, part funky, part whimsical. There's a rough edge to the decor--mismatched chairs, a couple of wobbly tables--but the overall effect somehow works. The hard-to-find entrees include Camarones Diabla ($8.95), jumbo shrimp sauteed in a butter-garlic-wine sauce, and seasoned with chopped tomatoes and dried chilies. Try the mole! Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner 5-9 p.m.; closed Sundays. (Reviewed Jan. 7, 1994)
Pasta ?, 326 University Avenue, Palo Alto, 328-4585 This bustling contemporary trattoria features a budget-conscious menu that caters to contemporary health concerns (selected pastas are served with no cheese, light oil, and little salt; red meat gets barely a mention) but it doesn't try to be adventurous. You'll find several old favorites, including Caesar and Caprese salads, Fettuccine Alfredo, and Bolognese sauce. Appropriately, for a place that bills itself as a casual "Italian Eatery," the cross-regional repertoire focuses on simple dishes showcasing fresh ingredients sensibly combined. Pasta, of course, is Pasta ?'s mainstay, and the kitchen has got its preparation and presentation down to an exact science. Impeccable timing ensures that the noodles--made from scratch at the San Francisco parent restaurant--reach the tables neither more nor less than al dente. And careful saucing does them justice; you won't be left with a pool of surplus liquid (nor stains on your shirt). Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Dec. 12, 1997)
Le Petit Bistro, 1405 El Camino Real, Mountain View, 964-3321
This intimate, 16-table restaurant emphasizes impeccably prepared food rather than fantasy decor or froufrou flavors. There are fresh flowers on tables covered by peach cloths. Staff members take care of every need without presuming to introduce themselves, much less interrupt conversation. Chef Jean Michel's specialty is light but classic French cuisine. After all the rowdy experimentation done in the name of California cuisine, his quiet marvels are a palate-soothing revelation. The menu is small but carefully chosen. For starters there are salads ($3.50-$5), Prince Edward Island mussels steamed with garlic ($7), and duck mousse with crunchy crudites ($5). You may find a special such as escargot ($7). And there is always a soup du jour. Entrees range in price from $11 for pasta to $19 for medallions of beef with peppercorn sauce. Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.; Tues.-Sat. 5:30-10 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday. (Reviewed Oct. 6, 1995)
Pizz'a Chicago,
Stepping into this pizzeria is like entering a wacky fantasy of Chicago. There are street signs from famous corners of the city, a mural of the "El," and a rooftop perch complete with a line of laundry that features Chicago Bulls T-shirts. Red-and-white checked vinyl tablecloths and paper napkins make this a kid-friendly restaurant. Part of the fun here is reading the menu. Sassy jibes at Chicago's rich and famous are just as jazzy as the pizzas they describe. The Jane Byrne, for instance, is a tart and tangy combination of spicy tomato sauce topped with bits of dried apricot, bacon, and sauteed red onion rings. Why name this daring combination for the first female mayor of the city? "She was very much into pork-barrel politics," according to the menu. Great salads and friendly service. Hours: Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri and Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (Reviewed July 14., 1995)
Pluto's,
Pluto's provides fast, wholesome food cafeteria style. The restaurant's theme is one of outer space. It's slogan, for example, is "Fresh Food For a Hungry Universe" and the restrooms are labeled Cosmonauts and Cosmonettes. The servings are generous. Vegetables cost between $1 and $1.50, and the entres run between $3 and $4. Most of the menu items have theme names. There's "Vegetable Galaxy," "Crater of Orbital Soup," "Saturn's Garlic Potato Rings," and the word "heavenly" is frequently used as a modifier. If you don't mind gimmicks and hanker for simple American cooking with a vaguely healthy cachet (Pluto's owners claim that 80 percent of its dishes are low-fat), this neighborly spot should appeal. Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. (Reviewed May 2, 1997)
PolanDeli, 2399 Broadway, Redwood City, 568-1809
This is a small, family-owned and operated place with a counter and a few tables. PolanDeli could easily be mistaken for a sandwich shop (there is a listing of terrific sandwiches), if it were not for the heavenly smells that identify serious cooking. Owners Richard and Margaret Marona have a masterful touch with the goulash ($4.50), the dish largely responsible for the wonderful aroma that fills the place. Look for smoked salmon sandwiches, stuffed cabbage, tripe soup and blood sausage, among more accessible Eastern European fare. Hours: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat. (Reviewed April 21, 1995)
Portola Park Restaurant, 884 Portola Road, Portola Valley, 529-9007
You can ask for an outdoor table at Portola Park Restaurant and contemplate one of nature's giant wonders while sipping a fine wine, and waiting for your crab quesadilla to arrive. This cafe in the redwoods is a great place to go when you're in the mood for something simple, elegant and without the fuss. The clean lines of a stainless steel kitchen rise toward the open beam ceilings and contrast with the warm woody feel of the place. Dress is casual. The menu defies easy classification. With items like pizza Margheritta, penne rigate, angel hair pasta with wild mushrooms, fresh tomato, and pine nuts, Italian would seem to be the right label. Dishes like crab and shrimp Louise and grilled lemon rosemary salmon darns say California cuisine. But then there are items like Japanese soba noodles with rock shrimp and Dungeness crab quesadillas with salsa. Chef Brad Kellering, who was trained in classical French cooking but emphasizes the international, calls it New American Cuisine. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tue.-Fri.; brunch 10:30-2:30 Sun.; dinner 5-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., 5-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. (Reviewed Aug. 2, 1996)
Pot au Feu, 1149 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 322-4343
California cuisine has not had a great impact on Le Pot au Feu. Nor has East-West fusion or heart-healthy cooking. And that is the Menlo Park restaurant's greatest appeal. The 25-year-old Le Pot au Feu is a bastion of traditional French brasserie cooking in cozy, old-fashioned surroundings. The restaurant offers an appealing and consistent reprieve from the sleek new eateries and fussy dishes that pervade the Peninsula these days: Red meat, heavy sauces and rich desserts have been its mainstay for decades. Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Sunday 5:30-9 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 1, 1999)
Q Cafe Billiards, 529 Alma St., Palo Alto, 322-3311
One might think of a "pool hall" as a place with cigarette smoke, televised sports, dirty mirrors and mediocre beer. It is doubtful, however, that such a venue would wash in Palo Alto. Enter Q Cafe Billiards. The 6,000-square-foot restaurant is a serious contributor to Palo Alto's nightlife. The TV is tuned to sports, but don't expect smoke, the smell of stale beer, dirty mirrors or scruffy-looking men at Q Cafe. Most of the men (and women) are clean cut collegiate types. The mirrors are spotless, the beer is upscale and smoking is out. The huge room is equipped with 12 tournament-sized, Olhausen tables. The food is good enough for what it is--fuel for pool: fried calamari with spicy tomato and garlic-lime dip, burgers, french fries, salads, sandwiches, firecracker shrimp, gourmet pizzas. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. daily. (Reviewed June 30, 1995)
The Red Pepper, 4125 El Camino Way, Palo Alto, 493-7093
Not many Palo Alto restaurants can boast of serving customers for 30 years, but The Red Pepper has been dishing up traditional enchiladas and refried beans since 1965. The stresses of the work week lose their urgency amidst the aroma of corn tortillas and the pools of dim light. he loud kitchen, complete with clanging dishes and roaring blenders, can either annoy or add to the sense of being guests in a Mexican home. Despite the name of the restaurant, The Red Pepper's offerings, especially the guacamole and salsa, will seem mild for those who crave tongue-searing tastes. As for vegetarians, cheese enchiladas and bean burritos are pretty much the only options. The portions are large enough to provide leftovers for the next day, and the cheese, beans, meat and guacamole served with each meal will leave you feeling more than full. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5-9:30 daily (Reviewed Dec. 15, 1995)
Ridgeside Cafe, Ladera Shopping Center, Alpine Road, Portola Valley, 854-4166
Even the drive to Ridgeside Cafe in woodsy Portola Valley is relaxing. Once there, diners can enjoy a light meal on the outdoor patio or eat inside the brightly remodeled dining room. The menu is simple but creative, featuring specials like trout garnished with bacon, accompanied by garlic potatoes, or tortilla soup--a rich, spicy broth studded with chicken and vegetables. Seasoned crab cakes and chicken Caesar are other specials to watch for. Conventional desserts round out a moderately priced menu. Breakfast and lunch are traditional with a twist. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for lunch. Dinner Tues. to Sat. 5-9 p.m., Sat. and Sun. brunch 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Robaii, 496 Hamilton Ave. at Cowper Street, Palo Alto, 325-1994
Named after a Persian word for a poetry technique, Robaii was opened by Soussan and Dar Nafar in May 1998. Small Persian pictures decorate the walls, and the large front windows reveal a pleasant view of downtown. Traditional Persian music plays amid the sounds of a small waterfall in the corner. The food has more of an Arabic influence from the southern, Abadah region of Iran. Dolmeh barg (stuffed with yellow split peas), the falafel combo (with falafel balls, baba ghanoush and hummus) and the lamb pita are among the best dishes. All options include pita bread made fresh daily at a Fremont bakery. Hours: Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Saturday noon-8:30 p.m. (Reviewed Dec. 18, 1998)
Rojoz Gourmet Wraps, 60 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, 324-9727
This is another restaurant dedicated to the ubiquitous "wrap." One look at the menu and you're likely to forget any preconceived notions you might have about rice and beans. Instead, an array of gourmet ingredients from pesto, Spanish olives and Roma tomatoes to teriyaki sauce, pineapple and sugar peas tumbles off the page. Rojoz Gourmet Wraps is very '90s. It's quick. It's inexpensive ($5-$6). There are a few salads on the menu, vegetarian wraps galore and even a little room for the humble burrito under a snappier name, of course. It's a fast-food-style place, though the food is made to order. Rojoz is part of a nine-restaurant chain. It's owned by the people who brought you Rockin' Tacos. Open weekdays 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fri. and Sat. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 10, 1996)
Satkar, 233 State St., Los Altos, 947-8729
Downtown Los Altos has needed a good Indian restaurant for years. Now it has one. Satkar opened its doors a few months back, adding to a local culinary mix. The restaurant is a family affair. Mukhtiar Singh does the cooking, and his wife, Kirandeep Kaur, waits tables. Singh was formerly a chef at Janta in Palo Alto. In addition to a full menu, Satkar offers an all-you-can-eat buffet ($6.99), which includes many of its signature dishes, such as chicken tikka, chicken masala, bengan baharta (baked eggplant in curry sauce) and tandoori lamb. Hours: Monday-Saturday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Sunday 5-10 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 8, 1999)
Scala Mia, 820 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, 323-3665
This fine, small cucina has an expansive selection of heartwarming pastas surrounded by salads, appetizers, and main dishes that include eggplant, veal, chicken, steak and calamari. Every meal starts with small rounds of freshly baked Italian bread and a bowl of an extremely lush olive oil steeped in garlic. Each dish at Scala Mia shares two traits--incredibly good olive oil and garlic. Pastas at Scala Mia are boiled with an artful precision that keeps them from losing a second's worth of flavor. Perhaps two of the most outstanding pasta dishes are the Linguini Cozze ($9.95), linguine with fresh New Zealand mussels, hot chili flakes and roasted garlic in a red sauce, and Linguine Vongole ($10.95), linguini with sauteed fresh clams, olive oil and garlic in a white wine sauce. Whatever you do when you dine at Scala Mia, make room up front for the restaurant's wonderful array of salads. Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (Reviewed June 13, 1997)
Senor Taco Taqueria, 3636 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 493-8757
The old Senor Taco stand in Barron Park had all the ambiance of dining on the freeway. Outdoor tables were so close to El Camino you could feel the suction from cars whizzing by. Now, Senor Taco is downright spiffy. The clean, well-lighted place for tacos has plants, an attractive tile counter and murals. But it still has the same wonderful menu of burritos, tacos, snacks (nachos and taquitos) and platters (enchiladas, chile rellenos, tamales and grilled meats). If you never stray from the rice-and-bean, carne asada or chicken burrito format, you'll never understand why the place has such a following. A rice-and-bean burrito for $3.25 from Senor Taco doesn't taste all that different from a rice-and-bean burrito from a lesser restaurant for $1.89. To understand the Senor Taco fixation, you need to order the more unusual dishes: the Oaxacan chicken burrito, the Chiapas-style tamal, the calabaza burrito, the grilled meat platter. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Oct. 13, 1995)
Shalizaar Restaurant, 2020 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View, 938-2020
Persian cuisine is at once exotic and comforting to the neophyte. Shalizaar's talent is kabobs, but this two-year-old Mountain View eatery purveys an equal number of traditional Persian stews, dips and rice dishes. Across the board, dishes are delicately spiced, modestly priced and amply portioned--albeit sometimes cryptically described on the small menu. The kitchen's greatest achievement may be the rose and lime sorbet dotted with chewy rice noodles (squeeze a little extra lemon over it). The restaurant itself has an odd garden-party or under-the-bigtop ambiance provided by a huge green-and-white-striped tent. The tiny original dining room (maybe only five tables) is dwarfed by this appended canopied sunporch, warmed by flickering gas heaters. There is also a statuary garden and outdoor bar adjacent to the big parking lot. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday. (Reviewed Feb. 27, 1998)
Smart Alex, 4546 El Camino Real, Village Court, Inner Circle, Los Altos 949-4737
Smart Alex's kitchen spurns chemical additives and high-cholesterol items, but even die-hard meat-and-potatoes fans will find its poultry- and vegetable-based fare highly satisfying. This is a casual place, yet sparkling clean and notable for fast, efficient service. You make your food selections from the board-menu, then pay in advance at the cash register. Of the two-dozen entree choices, nine feature free-range poultry and the rest are vegetarian. The friendly, unfussy way in which the staff cater to individual needs--from bagging leftovers to substituting ingredients on request--must account in part for the loyalty of their customers, with many of whom they're on first-name terms. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. (Reviewed July 19, 1996)
Some Kind of Place, 85 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, 321-4730
Many will remember this family-owned restaurant from its original location inside Liddicoat's on University Avenue. The new location at Town & Country Village is small, but the menu spans the globe. Three items will only cost you $4.60. Try the Korean barbecue, enjoy a cheeseburger or have a cheese-topped baked potato. Owners Elizabeth and Edward Cho have given hungry lunch-goers a great way to eat in a hurry. Far from gourmet, but cheap. Hours: 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m. every day except Sunday, when the restaurant is closed. (Reviewed Aug. 4, 1995)
Spago, 265 Lytton Ave., Palo Alto, 833-1000
Celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck uses his signiture style of European/Asian cuisine, plus a couple of seasonal and regional offerings, at this excellent restaurant. The moment you enter you can see why it's become a hot destination. The interior, designed by Adam Tihany, is a sophisticated blend of artwork, dramatic arched windows and splashes of bold colors. The menu is a creative mix of unusual entrees and appetizers. Of particular note are the stuffed calamari and smoked salmon pizza. Be prepared for an expensive meal. Most entrees are in the $15 to $30 range, although the pizza can be had for $10-$13. There's an extensive wine list, and a side cafe for more casual events. It has a separate menu. Hours: 5:30-10:30 daily. (Reviewed Jan. 16, 1998)
Spalti Ristorate, 417 California Avenue, Palo Alto, 327-9390
This fine restaurant offers an extensive dinner menu (as well as an only slightly abbreviated lunch menu) featuring a broad cross section of classic and unusual dishes and includes several variations of just about all the building blocks of Italian cuisine. Take your time deciding from among 13 featured pasta dishes, five salads, three veal dishes, two risottos and three chicken entrees. On top of that, owner and manager Bolton Bulut offers three or four daily specials of fish, pasta and meat. Most of the entres are in the $15 range. Spalti's atmosphere is sophisticated without being austere, service is gracious, and dishes are prepared with a knowing hand. Hours: lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Saturday; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 4:30-9 p.m. Sunday. (Reviewed Jan. 24, 1997)
St. Michael's Alley, 806 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 326-2530
This old Palo Alto haunt features a full dinner menu comprised of comfort food with a California twist. For breakfast, choosing between the French toast, buttermilk pancakes with sliced bananas or a frosted cinnamon roll at St. Michael's is hard. The cozy cafe also serves omelets, pancakes and veggie potatoes at breakfast and sandwiches and mini-pizzas at lunch. Extensive local wine list. Hours: breakfast, 7:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Tue.-Fri.; lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Tue.-Fri.; Dinner, 5:30-10 p.m., Tue.-Sat.; brunch on weekends, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. (Reviewed Dec. 31, 1993)
Stickney's, 1 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, 324-0317
With its low-key attitude and whopping servings, Stickney's has been pleasing local restaurant-goers for more than 40 years. Stickney's may never make it onto the cover of Bon Appetit, but their pies will make it onto the love handles of many Peninsula residents. During the fall, Stickney's makes for a pleasant pre-game meal before a walk across the street to Stanford Stadium. You can sit at the small counter, in a bar complete with a television, in one of two dining rooms or a special sports themed room. The meals are your average Americana selections, and have been served at dinners like Stickney's across the country for years. Hours: Sunday-Thursday 6:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6:30 a.m.-midnight (Reviewed Nov. 4, 1994)
Sue's Indian Cuisine, 216 Castro St., Mountain View, 969-1112
Generous with portions, Sue's serves southern Indian cuisine that's rich and spicy in a casual atmosphere. Diners are surrounded by paintings by the restaurant's owner. Authentic Indian dishes include shrimp biriani ($8.95), made with cashews, almonds and raisins, which give the dish a pleasing flavor and texture, and a vindaloo that's sure to please those who like to sear their tastebuds. Vegetarians can choose from eight dishes in the vegetarian section of the menu, as well as a handful of dishes from other sections. Appetizers of nan--puffed-up Indian bread--and golden fried samosa--pockets of slivered green beans--come to life when dipped in lentil or tamarind sauces. Cold beer is a great accompaniment. Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday, 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (Reviewed Dec. 29, 1995)
Su Hong Restaurant, 1039 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 322-4631, and 4101 El Camino Way, Palo Alto, 493-3836
Tasty Chinese food served in the Szechuan and Mandarin styles has been keeping crowds coming back to Su Hong over the years. The menu also is full of American takeout favorites, including pot stickers and spring rolls. Su Hong chefs use garlic and peppers liberally, and keep their vegetables crisp. Call for hours. (Reviewed April 6, 1988)
Sundance Mine Company, 1921 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 321-6798
Sundance has attracted a loyal following by serving a small but well-chosen array of entrees that are centered on, but not limited to, a passion for beef. The wine list includes several selections from nearby vineyards in Napa Valley, Sonoma, Russian River, San Luis Obispo and the Santa Cruz Mountains. The obvious choice for main course is one of Sundance's signature cuts of beef. The prime rib is slow-roasted and carved lean to order for differing appetites. Hours: Dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday 5-10:30 p.m. Open for lunch starting May 17, Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. (Reviewed April 22, 1994)
Suraj Indian Cuisine, 2550 El Camino Real, Redwood City, 369-8899 Anyone who enjoys the heady flavors of cross-regional Indian cooking should find Suraj worth checking out. At six pages, the menu at six pages is daunting in its length. Although the kitchen prepares dishes found throughout India, there's an accent on the vegetable- and spice-loving region of India's south. The portions are large and the restaurant is spacious--seating for about 200 diners. The restaurant serves all the specialties you'd expect--naans, pilafs, pulses and tandoori-cooked meats. Of particular note is the lamb vindaloo ($12.95 a la carte), tender chunks in a vinegary sauce--thick with potato, tomato, and scallions. It's hot--four on a heat scale of one to five--but it was a controlled heat, without the stinging ferocity that emerges from carelessly mixed or undercooked spices. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily; dinner 5:30-10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed Aug. 8, 1997)
Swagat Indian Cuisine, 2700 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View, 948-7727
Swagat not only dares to be different by offering southern Indian specialties like lentil crepes and sambar soup. This restaurant also distinguishes itself by a serious commitment to quality. It's worth a trip to the border of Palo Alto and Mountain View to find Swagat between a motel and a carwash on El Camino. Dining chairs with white brocade seats are cautiously covered in plastic. And white table cloths come with a paper mat at each place, makeing the place both kid-friendly and "dress-up" special. Take anything on the menu that's offered with sambar, southern India's rice-lentil soup. Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m., buffet lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; happy hour 4-6 p.m. (Reviewed Aug. 19, 1994)
Taxi's, 403 University Ave., Palo Alto, 328-3299
This clean, well-lighted place for burgers and fries attracts a steady stream of teen-agers, families and nostalgia buffs who line up to the door to put away baskets of onion rings, chili dogs, tuna melts and other foods of times gone by. What to call it? Diner Moderne? Nouveau diner? Either way, Taxi's has thrown together all the classic kitschy elements of a diner: a counter with stools that go around in a circle, gleaming black and white tile, fluorescent lights, a jukebox. It's an especially good place for kids, who will find buckets of crayons and a menu sized just for them. The menu is basic Americana with a twist. Besides the hallowed trio of burgers-shakes-and-fries, Taxi's offers several lowfat, low-cholesterol alternatives: the garden burger, the grilled fish sandwich, chicken breasts and baked potatoes. The menu boasts that Taxi's fries all its food in canola oil. Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. until midnight. (Reviewed Jan. 5, 1996)
Tea Time, The Tea Lovers' Shop, 542 Ramona St., Palo Alto, 32T-CUPS
The menu of more than 100 tea flavors is more daunting than the choices at Baskin-Robbins. The owners encourage customers to sniff before ordering. They patiently open one tin after another, dip in ceramic cups, and hold the leafy contents up to your nose for savoring. Each pot is brewed to order according to precise specifications that bring out the best of each variety. Edibles include a plate of tea sandwiches, such as smoked salmon, egg salad and English cucumber ($5.95). Desserts include Key Lime Pie ($2.75), lemon square, and cream scones with lemon curd ($2). Hours: Mon.-Fri., 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed Sun. (Reviewed Sept. 29, 1995)
Tied House Cafe and Brewery, 954 Villa St., Mountain View, 965-2739
The generous selection of award-winning beers is reason enough to pay this bustling "beer hall" a visit. Diners should draw their own conclusions about which beers best suit particular dishes, since the menu and servers provide few guidelines. A combination appetizer platter ($9.95) offers portions of blackened catfish strips, buffalo tenderloins (chicken breast strips a la buffalo wings), and two pieces of grilled sausage, including good bratwurst and spicy andouille. The Tied House's open kitchen prepares good hamburgers ($5.75) and commendable baby back ribs ($9.95 a half-slab). Hours: Lunch daily from 1:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Wednesday 4:30-9:30 p.m, Thursday-Saturday 4:30-10:30 p.m. (Reviewed Jan. 27, 1995)
Toshi's Sushiya Restaurant, 211 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, 326-8862
At Toshi's, where food presentation is a fine art, the soft shell crab roll and giant futomaki are the most unusual offerings on its sushi menu. Heartier udon noodle soups ($5.90-$6.85) come in three versions. The most expensive dunks two long fried shrimp in the broth like swizzle sticks. Toshi's decor is spare and bare with boxy hanging lights made of miniature shoji screens. For kitsch, there's a clock on the wall with 12 varieties of plastic sushi replacing the numerals. Service is prompt and conscientious. Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5:30-9:45 p.m. Closed Monday. (Reviewed Jan. 13, 1995)
Trattoria Buon Gusto, 651-H Oak Grove Avenue, Menlo Park, 328-2778
This small Menlo Park restaurant stars two generations of Sicilian-Americans. Palma Costa, her daughter, and son-in-law have created an old-fashioned trattoria that blends cozy friendliness with first-class service and delicious Sicilian dishes. Try the caponata Siciliana appetizer ($6). This melange of vegetables in mildly spicy tomato sauce features giant capers, soft eggplant, black olives, onions and celery. You could make an entire meal of this spread and the homemade bread that arrives at your table. The lunch menu has some of the best sandwich deals in town. For $4.25, you get a vegetarian version on homemade foccacia that's two inches tall. The restaurant's address is Oak Grove Avenue, but it's actually hidden around the corner from the Menlo Park post office in the strip of shops on Maloney Lane. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tues.-Thurs. and Fri.-Sat., dinner 5 p.m.-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs and 5-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat., dinner 5-9 p.m. Sun. Closed Mon. (Reviewed Oct 20, 1995)
University Coffee Cafe, 271 University Ave., Palo Alto, 322-5301
Cozy is not a word that comes to mind in describing this java, juice and sandwich spot. It's streamlined. Polished. Cavernous. Behind shiny espresso makers, high-tech juicers and sparkling glass display cases, earnest and helpful young counter servers dish up the likes of black bean chicken chili, line-caught ahi tuna or grilled free-range chicken sandwiches, smoothies, fresh-squeezed fruit and vegetable juices, hummus with baked garlic pita chips and, of course, all the requisite Italian coffees. Breakfast is served until 11 a.m. Hours: 7:30 a.m.-11 p.m. weekdays, 7:30 a.m.-midnight Fri. and Sat., 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. (Reviewed Jan. 20, 1995)
The Valley Inn, 888 Portola Road, Portola Valley, 851-0242 This long-established restaurant combines a friendly neighborhood tavern atmosphere with large portions. The appetizers are main meals, the pastas are mountains, and the sandwiches can almost be intimidatingly large. The restaurant offers plenty of tasty alternatives on both its lunch and dinner menus. For noontime appetites, there are burgers of various varieties, meatball and sausage sandwiches, french dip and steak sandwiches. Prices range from $5.25 for a grilled cheese to $9.25 for the swordfish or salmon burger. On the dinner menu, main dishes range from spaghetti with marinara sauce for $8.25 to "Half a Benji" (two porterhouse steaks, salads, potatoes, vegetables, dessert and bottle of red wine) for $50. Most of the meals fall in the $10-$14 range. The Valley Inn has a full bar. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. (Sundays open at 10 a.m. for NFL games.) Bar hours 11:30 a.m. until "late," seven days a week. (Reviewed Sept. 27, 1996)
Vicolo, 473 University Ave., Palo Alto, 324-4877
Vicolo pizzeria, with its heavenly cornmeal-crusted pizza, means the search for the perfect pie is over. The menu at Vicolo is pure pizza, one calzone daily, and a few focaccia sandwiches, a soup, plus several simple but delectable salads. Vicolo pizza is expensive; one slice costs $3.25 and a whole pizza is $18.50. But you can't compare these prices to the chains--there's no similarity in the product. Topping combinations are unique: a favorite is eggplant marinara teamed with smoked mozzarella, roasted garlic, provolone, parsley, Parmesan and oregano. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri. (Reviewed Dec. 20, 1996)
World Wrapps, 201 University Ave., Palo Alto, phone 327-9777, fax 327-8679 (fax in your order)
If there exists in Mexico the equivalent of the Jewish grandmother (the kind who had serious palpitations when younger Jewish cooks began adding lemon grass and red hot chili peppers to chicken soup), she is sure to be shaking her head over what World Wrapps puts inside a tortilla. Tofu. Teriyaki tofu. Peking duck. Thai chicken. Curried vegetables. (Oh, and by the way, make that a spinach, roma tomato, whole wheat or lowfat tortilla). The loud and lively World Wrapps serves only two things: smoothies and wrapps. Wrapps come in four categories: gourmet, vegetarian, 99 percent fat-free and traditional Mexican. Smoothies come in two types: gourmet and "health boost." Although hardly a diet joint, World Wrapps emphasizes fresh, healthy ingredients. Hours: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily; no wrapps before 10:30 a.m. (Reviewed April 12, 1996)
Zao, 261 University Ave., Palo Alto, 328-1988; fax your order to 328-1865
Zao is a small, angular, skylighted noodle bar that takes a cross-section of Eastern noodle dishes and gussies 'em up with a Pacific Rim-California cuisine sensibility. By the time you're done, you'll be fully acquainted with the restaurant's namesake: the benevolent Eastern sage who embodies the two most important aspects of life--good food and shelter. Don't worry, if the marketing approach irritates you, the food won't. It's a good noodle house that features its specialty cold, sauteed or in broth. Zao's prices are well within the range of affordable, certainly for the restaurant amusement park known as downtown Palo Alto. Dinner entree prices range from $4.95 for broccoli and buckwheat noodles to $7.95 for seared steak in cilantro broth. Zao's small menu includes two "Kid Noodle" items: chicken, vegetables and wheat noodle broth; and rice vermicelli and veggies with a peanut broth ($3.95 each). Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. (Reviewed May 30, 1997)
Zibibbo, 430 Kipling Street, Palo Alto, 328-6722
Zibibbo is the name of a grape used in Italy's regional dessert wines, and it's a fitting appellation for this restaurant--quirky, witty and down-to-earth. The menu spans the cuisines of the Mediterranean, including dishes from the south of France, Italy, Greece, Morocco and Spain. The open kitchen creates untraditional variations on dishes that are traditionally associated with the area, incorporating in-season produce, fresh fish and occasional experiments. The menu is tweaked daily and will be overhauled seasonally as raw materials come into and out of season. Many dishes at the restaurant are meant to be shared and come to the table on a family-style platter. Main dishes are in the $15-$20 range, sides about $4-$7 and appetizers run from $3-$10. The restaurant is laid out with expertise. It will seat up to 280 but you'd never know it by the mix of intimate and wide open eating areas. Hours: Breakfast 9-11 a.m. daily; lunch 10:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. daily; dinner 5:30-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-11:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday. (Reviewed Nov. 14, 1997)
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