Publication Date: Friday Apr 9, 1999

Restaurant Review: A good neighbor

It's been 18 years, and the Woodside Bakery and Cafe still attracts a broad and hilarious cross-section of humanity. There are the bicyclists in loud, aerodynamic shirts stopping in for some carbo-loading. There are families, the littlest members in high chairs or car carriers. Business lunchers balance briefcases and cell phones with their sandwiches or plates of pasta. Even moony-eyed date-night warriors can be seen choosing a bottle from the short, bargain-priced wine list. All is status quo at Woodside Bakery, except the ownership, the chef, the management, and a bit of the menu and decor. Longtime owner Doug Basegio and his wife, Sylvia, sold the restaurant to Philippe Tregon (also owner of iFratelli in Los Altos) this past August. As part of the deal, general manager Paul Siefer came aboard to oversee the day-to-day operations.

The bakery side still turns out serviceable sticky buns and cakes with gooey buttercream roses, but the cafe side has refined and distilled its hip Cal-Ital menu over the years to accommodate the cravings of Woodside locals. It's a neighborhood joint, but what a neighborhood: The affluent, worldly and health-conscious regulars want their roasted butternut squash soup, their penne Sylvia, their salmon saltimbocca, and they don't want to drive far to get it.

The restaurant itself is divided down the middle into a bakery side and a cafe side. Both are pretty, airy spaces with lots of Italian marble and tile that causes voices to amplify and ricochet. The cafe side has an elegantly displayed wine cellar and open kitchen framed by sleek archways. Colors are creamy yellow and a rosy salmon, both colors that seem to flatter everyone and promote a healthy appetite.

The sun-dried cranberry salad ($6.75) has been a hit for a while, but we chose to start with a fresh mozzarella and tomato round salad ($7.25), pepped up with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of basil, as well as a classic Caesar ($4.95--small; $6.95--large), perfectly cheesy, crisp and a little lean on the anchovy kick.

From there, we proceeded to more Italian classics (alright, the glass of Acacia chardonnay, $6.50, and the Gordon Biersch marzen, $3.50, were a little more Cal than Ital). Penne Sylvia ($11.95), named for the original owner, is a favorite among many, pairing al dente penne fingers with chunky, fresh tomato sauce doctored with roasted shiitake mushrooms, shallot, basil and a luscious splash of cream. It's a big portion, though, so sharing among friends may be the best way to sample its charms.

Pizzas emanate from the stylish pizza oven at a regular clip--toppings are straightforward and pizza-appropriate (no Thai doodads or Southwestern knickknacks). The calzone ($9.95) is a hefty pocket packed with ricotta, mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes and, for an extra $2.50, spicy Italian sausage. Chef Rudy Martinez also offers a daily special pizza worth investigating. One night it was an oh-so-Italian mix ($11.95) of anchovy fillets, green onion, olives, capers and a swath of mozzarella cheese.

Martinez has been with the restaurant for four years, as executive chef for one. He and his kitchen staff send out clean, well-executed plates without a lot of fussy garnishes or accompaniments. Nothing is too surprising or challenging, but everything is wholesome and bright, and that's how the locals want it. A fine case in point, and a fine ending to a meal, is the chocolate mousse cake ($4.50), a big wedge of velvety mousse and airy chocolate cake. A little heavy for the bicyclists, but just right for those date-nighters.

Woodside Bakery and Cafe, 3052 Woodside Road, Woodside, 851-0812

Hours: Bakery open 6 a.m.-6 p.m. daily; cafe open 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Atmosphere: Homey, friendly and very noisy, Woodside Bakery and Cafe feels like home to lots of locals.

Highlights: A kind of Cal-Ital aesthetic permeates the menu, with lively salads, pastas and pizzas.

About the owner: Doug Basegio and his wife, Sylvia, sold the restaurant to Philippe Tregon this past August. As part of the deal, general manager Paul Siefer came aboard to oversee the day-to-day operations. Tregon also owns iFratelli in Los Altos. Reservations - not accepted Credit cards - yes Parking - lot Beer and wine only - yes Takeout - yes Banquet - no Wheelchair access - yes Non-smoking - yes Highchairs - yes Outdoor seating - yes 

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