by Kristen Harrison
QI recently converted the front of my Eichler garage into a rental studio and have rented it out. My problem is that my renter and I like different kinds of music and we are too noisy for each other. Please tell me what is available in the way of soundproofing. It's driving us nuts.
A There are three basic physical approaches to sound control: blocking the path of the sound waves, reducing the vibrations transmitted from wood to sheetrock in the wall or ceiling-floor system, and absorbing the sound as it is transmitted through the wall or ceiling-floor system. Noise reduction is easiest to achieve when the appropriate noise attenuators (reducers) are built into the wall or floor/ceiling systems during construction. Retrofitting is expensive. Blocking the path of the noise means using heavier building materials. A double layer of sheetrock is an example of this approach. Gluing the two layers together with construction adhesive before hanging further reduces the amount of noise penetrating the wall. However, this results in a thicker than normal wall. In a retrofit, this may mean having to put in new door jambs and reworking the molding around windows and doors.
If you are willing to remove the sheetrock from one or both sides of your studio wall, you can reduce vibration by installing resilient channels and absorb more sound by installing fiberglass batt insulation in the stud bays.
This is the same insulation used for thermal control in exterior walls. Attach the channels to the existing studs or joists, and then attach the sheetrock to the channels. These channels interfere with vibrations that pass from sheetrock to wood framing member to sheetrock.
If the door connecting the rental unit with the main residence is hollow, replacing it with a solid, weather-stripped door will help. Thick wall hangings, such as rugs or quilts, also reduces the amount of noise passing through a wall. Carpets with thick pads serve the same function if you are trying to control sound and vibration transmission from one floor to the next.
All these measures are aimed at sound control. They do not render a room soundproof. Because of the risk that unreasonably high expectations often lead to disappointment, I recommend an escalating approach to your particular problem. For instance, start with headphones. They might turn out to be the best (and cheapest) solution of all.
Q We are adding a new peninsula in our kitchen. The cabinets will be white plastic laminate, and the work surface at countertop height will be tiled. Along the back of the peninsula, I would like to have a raised overhang at bar stool height. I want to use vertical grain fir for the overhang, but my husband says I'm crazy to want fir because it is too soft. A I don't think you are crazy at all. The combination of materials could be great. However, your husband is correct when he says that fir is soft. It also tends to turn orange when exposed to light. Because it is soft, a fir surface will accumulate dents and marks with use. However, fanciers of soft woods like this characteristic.
My cabinetmaker recommends that you support the fir overhang with 3/4-inch plywood, to prevent the fir board from splitting. Sealing the surface with urethane will reduce the chance of stains from food spills.
When choosing any building material, it is important to understand all the characteristics of that material. How is it affected by temperature, moisture, physical abuse?
If you want to have a surface that looks brand new after five years, don't choose a soft wood like fir. In fact, if your taste runs toward perfection, you may not want to use wood at all. Certain man-made materials, such as Corian, are easier to keep looking like new.
Kristen Harrison is a principal at Harrison Design/Lancer Construction of Menlo Park, a design/build group specializing in residential additions and remodels. Her column appears the fourth Friday of the month. Send question to Harrison care of the Palo Alto Weekly, P.O. Box 1610, Palo Alto, CA 94302.
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