Publication Date: Friday, February 04, 2005
House of protein
House of protein
(February 04, 2005) Some cheers, some jeers at the Old Pro
by Aimee M. Male
There is no reason to watch sporting events alone. Screaming at the referee on the television just doesn't have that cathartic effect if there aren't at least 50 people screaming with you. That's why sports are played with teams, and sporting events watched at the Old Pro.
The offspring of the historic institution on El Camino Real, the Old Pro on Ramona Avenue has welcomed for the last two years screamers, grumblers and those who choose to weep into their beer after a crushing loss. And because it's no fun to root on an empty stomach, the restaurant offers a full menu with traditional burgers and fries, along with a whole lineup of entrees and salads.
Don't come here on a diet, however, unless it's Atkins. The painted motto on the window proudly reads, "House of Protein" and it is not false advertising. (A cartoon cow on the menu says, "I'm not laughing.") Great ribs and beef brisket are smoked on the premises, and steak bites and burgers are the main attraction.
While the Old Pro bats a 1.000 for bar specials and the biggest pitchers in town (if not the Bay Area), the menu is hitting .300 with plenty of room for improvement. Owner Steve Sinchek is looking to make the pub as much of a food destination as a sports destination, however, with a new chef and some menu changes in the next few months.
Still, this is no sloppy sports bar, and is as befitting of downtown Palo Alto business types as it is college pep squads. Linen napkins and heavy cutlery belie the picnic-style table arrangement, as heavy long tables place strangers and friends side by side. There's not a bad seat in the house too, as some 30 television sets (as well as big-screen TVs) make sure you don't miss a play while you snack.
For the marathon sports watcher, Old Pro opens at 9 a.m. for brunch on game days and then serves its entire menu for lunch and dinner until 1 a.m. Considering the amount of commercials during the Super Bowl, the late-night hours just might come in handy this Sunday.
A good referee knows he's got to wet his whistle before starting the game. Old Pro serves up personal beer taps that defy description. A "chiller" is an 80-ounce mini-tap that comes with its own ice to keep beer cold; a 110-ounce towering tube of beer is aptly named the "beerzooka." Prices depend on the type of beer ordered. A surprisingly high-end wine list, cheekily entitled, "Fine Grape Juice," includes recent vintages of cult classics such as Silver Oak and Caymus for fairly reasonable prices.
Once you're watered, it's time to chow. A half-slab of "award-winning" baby back ribs ($12.95) with fries is a must-try, served with a side of tangy barbecue sauce. Although I often feel slightly Neanderthal when gnawing on ribs, these ribs barely needed fingers before the meat was already off the bone. Mesquite-rich and smoky, a half-slab is a good portion if you're peckish; they're so good that if you plan to share, you'll need a full slab ($18.95) to keep a fight from breaking out.
I was less than impressed with the 18-hour brisket sandwich ($6.95), served also with a side of garlic fries. The brisket too was incredibly tender but large land mines of tough fat made the eating a bit treacherous. The egg-y bun was light but dry, a fault I discovered wasn't a one-time event. A similar complaint by other diners at our table inspired them to return a hamburger bun to the kitchen for fear it was stale.
Sonoma chicken wings ($6.95) are the savory stand-in for the traditional Buffalo, and are served with a choice of dipping sauces depending on your taste. An order of mini Angus cheeseburgers ($7.95 for four) is a perfect appetizer for the nervous sports fan -- palm-sized buns and burger with a thin sheet of Cheddar and a pickle. They can be gobbled in two or three bites, and if your dining companions are rooting for the other team, you can politely tell them to "stick a burger in it." I doubt it would be taken badly.
Gilroy garlic fries ($3.95) are also served with almost every sandwich and entree (salad can always be substituted) and although the menu boasts that they were named "best fries" by the "San Jose Mercury News," I fear the fame may have tempered their excellence over time. I would have loved a crisper, more garlicky pile; what's a little garlic breath among friends and sports fans?
I bounced back and forth between my dining companion's slab of ribs and my BBQ chicken pizza ($13.95), a 12-inch pie with a fantastic, crunchy crust and tangy cheese. Barbecue sauce takes the place of tomato on this pizza, and generous chunks of tender chicken and ribbons of red onions complete the top.
And if you like your salad dressing with a side of salad, the ultimate wedge ($7.95) is for you. A quarter hunk of Iceberg lettuce swims in a lake of rich blue cheese dressing, with crunchy bacon bits and more chunky blue cheese. This is not a refreshing salad, but it is decadent.
Half-time entertainment can be found upstairs in the Old Pro game room, where two Ping Pong tables, ice hockey and video games are found. On a sunny day (or even a brisk, blue one) an impromptu outdoor area complete with heating lamps (and two televisions) can accommodate al fresco diners and smokers who want to enjoy the game with a burger, too.
If the game goes into overtime, be sure to order the s'mores ($8) to share. The do-it-yourself dish comes with a dozen giant marshmallows, two bars of Hershey's milk chocolate and a whole packet of graham crackers, surrounding a tiki-style bowl of blue flame. Keep in mind that it is as important to have a designated driver on Super Bowl Sunday as it is to have a designated burning marshmallow extinguisher -- as my dining companion drolly put it, "there's nothing better than mixing fire and drunks."
Even in the off-season, the Old Pro offers lunch specials during the week, as well as happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. Service is quick and efficient and always friendly, even when the crowds are thick.
And if the Ramona Avenue location is too packed, Sinchek invites fans to hop over to the historic Old Pro at 2865 El Camino Real -- although the restaurant was almost forced to close its doors to make way for an office complex, those plans have been scrapped. With two Old Pros still in the game, you just can't lose.
Editor's Note: Sinchek plans to donate 10 percent of Sunday's proceeds to a Southeast Asian children's fund to benefit victims of the tsunami. This program will continue every Sunday through February.
Old Pro, 541 Ramona Ave., Palo Alto; (650) 326-1446.
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday-Monday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. (open later on Super Bowl Sunday); open Saturday-Sunday at 9 a.m. for brunch on game days; bar stays open until 2 a.m.
Reservations: Y
Credit Cards: Y
Lot Parking: Y
Bar: Y
Takeout: Y
Highchairs: Y
Catering : Y
Outdoor seating: Y
Noise level: Loud
Bathroom cleanliness: good
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