January 16, 2004

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Palo Alto Online

Andale, Andale!

by Patty Cheng

Each new year, my resolutions are the same: Lose weight, exercise more and eat healthy.

And each year, I fail to stick to my resolutions within days of making them. Perhaps it's the leftover Christmas sweets I can't bear to throw away, or the cold, rainy weather that convinces me to snuggle into my warm bed instead of getting on the treadmill.

Being healthy while dining out is even harder than getting myself to the gym. I don't have the self-control to push the chips or bread basket aside, or forego sweets once the dessert menu is placed in front of me. Even if you're not trying to lose weight, the rich foods and large portions so often served in today's restaurants make healthy eating a challenge.

Luckily, there are places like Andalé, where most offerings are already a healthier version than what you could find elsewhere, making it a little easier to stay fit in the new year.

Andalé's philosophy is to offer healthy Mexican food using fresh ingredients. No lard is used, and you won't find any frozen or canned foods in their kitchen. Everything I tasted was fresher and lighter than the corner taqueria, even the chips.

With its prime location on University Avenue, Andalé has survived the test of time, having a consistent flow of customers for more than a dozen years. The space is simple, spotlessly clean, and inviting to the lone diner or the large crowd.

The combination self-serve and service works efficiently, even during the lunch rush. You can preview dishes before you order by viewing the flat-screen TV at the counter. After ordering and paying for your food, you can collect your salsas and accoutrements, find a seat, and wait for your food to be delivered to your table on brightly colored platters.

To start, I love Andalé's chips and salsa, ($1.95). The self-serve salsa bar offers three different varieties: dark roasted tomatillo salsa with roasted ancho chiles and de arbol peppers (a bit too bitter for me); a tangy salsa de tomatillo with its signature green hue; and my favorite, the roasted tomato salsa. Be warned -- their airy chips are addictive.

I love chips so much, I'll often make a meal out of nachos. Andalé's version could be a meal for two, with plenty of melted cheese and black beans, topped with pico de gallo, guacamole and zigzags of sour cream ($5.25). I ordered my nachos with chunks of their grilled marinated beef ($6.75), but chicken is also an option ($6.25). I yearned for more sour cream and guacamole, but my mind reminded my stomach that this was the new year, and I didn't need the extra fat.

On another visit, I ordered the Mixta salad ($4.25), a savory combination of fresh romaine lettuce, chunks of tomato and avocado, goat cheese, and strips of jicama. The house dressing reminded me more of an Italian vinaigrette than anything Mexican -- perhaps it was the oregano. That aside, it was a good salad.

After eating the huge salad, I felt no guilt in ordering the Baja-style fish taco ($4.25). Even though fish is usually the healthy alternative on any menu, this red snapper is coated in beer batter and deep-fried. Diet or no diet, this taco is worth the calories. The spicy cabbage and roasted tomato salsa were a perfect complement to the crispy fish, and I could have eaten a dozen of them.

The chile relleno ($6.95) comes with rice and beans, as one of Andalé's "Favorite Mexican Dinners" selections. This roasted pasilla pepper filled with cheese and topped with salsa ranchera was one of the best I've tasted. The subtle smokiness of the pepper was not overwhelmed by the other ingredients, nor was it smothered by some heavy batter. The generous amount of melted cheese seemed to ooze unendingly out of nowhere and without any discernible greasiness, and the warm salsa counter-balanced the richness of the cheese.

Andalé offers an assortment of burritos, with your choice of chicken, pork, beef, fish, shrimp, plain vegetarian or the "supremo" ($5.95-$7.95). We tried the Maya burrito ($5.95), a flour tortilla wrapped around a generous portion of rotisserie chicken, with black beans, rice and salsa maya. This was my sister's favorite, with the moist chicken dominating, instead of the usual burrito so overstuffed with rice and beans that the meat is nearly invisible.

We also tried the carnitas taco ($2.95), a soft corn tortilla topped with pork, beans and salsa; and the al pastor taco, filled with barbecued pork, beans and salsa ($2.95). Neither was as flavorful as we had hoped, although there was plenty of meat in each. The al pastor looked like it should have more flavor than it did with its reddish BBQ hue, and the pork in the carnitas taco was a bit dry. But topped with some fresh onions and cilantro, available at the salsa bar, they were both acceptable. Perhaps this is one instance where more fat would add more flavor.

The shrimp fajitas ($8.50) were a surprising success. I expected a sparse showing of mediocre shrimp, but happily received several fresh, flavorful, plump shrimp sautéed with peppers and onions. The fajitas are served with guacamole, salsa, rice, beans and flour tortillas. The shrimp were so delicious that I can't wait to return to try their camarones al ajillo ($8.95), shrimp cooked in garlic butter on a bed of guacamole, and served with rice, beans and tortillas.

Andalé also offers taquitos (miniature fried tacos), flautas (deep-fried, meat-filled corn tortillas), tamales, quesadillas, tortas (Mexican sandwiches), crisp tacos, and flan or rice pudding for dessert. The assortment available will satisfy most anyone's craving for Mexican food.

In addition to the usual sodas, draft beers and bottled beverages, Andalé offers sangrias, margaritas and home-made agua frescas daily. The latter ($1.85) are a lighter and wonderfully refreshing alternative to juices or sodas. Consistent with the healthy atmosphere, you can also get freshly squeezed orange or carrot juice ($3.25). There is also horchata, a chilled, sweetened rice milk drink with a hint of cinnamon.

So even if you -- like me -- haven't been back to the gym since Jan. 1, you can still enjoy healthier versions of Mexican favorites without sacrificing flavor.

Andalé Mexican Restaurant, 209 University Ave., Palo Alto; (650) 323-2939

Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.; Saturday 11 a.m. - 10:30 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m. - 9 p.m.

Atmosphere: Casual, clean and simple.

Highlights: The Maya burrito; Baja-style fish taco, rotisserie chicken marinated in achiote, a Mayan spice; agua frescas and margaritas.
Reservations: yes Credit Cards:yes Street Parking only Alcohol:yes Takeout:yes Highchairs:no Wheelchair Access:yes Banquet:no Catering:no Outdoor Seating:yes
Noise Level:Low Bathroom cleanliness:Unavailable

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