December 26, 2003

Back to the table of Contents Page

Classifieds

Palo Alto Online

Gascon gastronomy

by Dale F. Bentson

Le Pot au Feu has been serving up versions of French cuisine from its Menlo Park location for more than 30 years. The food may be French, but the restaurant has been a fixture for so long it is now part of our local culture. That fixture is undergoing an evolution under a new chef and a previous owner.

"We are very much trying to upgrade the menu and presentation," said Dominique Devillez, a Parisian native who, last year, bought the restaurant back from the Pearl family, to whom he had sold it 11 years earlier. "It takes a while for people to realize that changes are being made here."

Pot au Feu's chef, Phillipe Bressolier, was the former French Ambassador's executive chef in Havana, Cuba. He hails from Palo Alto's sister city, Albi, located in southwest France. The menu reflects Bressolier's Gascony heritage.

For starters, les moules gratinees ($7.95), a sizzling plate of mussels that had been baked in their shells in garlic butter and parsley and dusted with breadcrumbs, was worth savoring. The moist, plump mussels emitted such an appealing aroma that I soaked up the scents. My mouth was not disappointed in the flavors either.

Salade landaise avec gesiers confit et magret fume ($8.95) was duck gizzard confit (cooked in its fat) chopped onto a bed of mixed greens, with a succulent slice of smoked duck breast. The salad was dressed with a light olive oil. This delightful and tasty salad -- and versions thereof -- is one of the mainstays of restaurants in southwest France. I have also seen it prepared with goose, pork and bacon as well.

Le chevre chaud et salade ($6.95) offered warmed French goat cheese over mixed greens with caramelized pecans, sun-dried tomatoes and olive oil. The addition of the pecans and sun-dried tomatoes offset the pungent creamy goat cheese.

Much of the chic cooking in France today is Asian-French fusion. This genre succeeded Nouvelle cuisine, whose roots extended back to post-World War II. After the war, French lifestyles changed. The pace was quicker, with less time for more complicated food preparation. Bressolier's cuisine re-examines that more complicated fare. He is a master saucier and his complex dishes often require lengthy preparation time.

Saumon paillard ($17.95) was a delicate and flavorful salmon filet that had been pounded and flattened, then sauteed. Topped with sauteed zucchini, yellow squash, wilted spinach and Shiitake mushrooms, the dish came to life with a zesty lime butter sauce.

Le Pot au Feu (literally pot on fire), the restaurant's namesake, ($18.95) consisted of short beef ribs that had simmered in a broth of Shiitake mushrooms, potatoes, leeks, carrots and turnips. The hearty beef stew was accompanied with French cornichons (gherkins), sea salt and Dijon mustard. The slow simmering resulted in a rich broth that was healthy and satisfying. The meat fell from the bone and the vegetables were cooked just through.

Cassoulet de Castelnaudary ($19.95) -- one of my favorite dishes -- was duck leg confit served with traditional garlic sausage, navy beans, herbs and toasted bread crumbs. Cassoulet is the most famous dish of southwest France. Its origin goes back to the 16th century, with the arrival of the bean. Today, each sub-region claims paternity, so that one finds a multitude of cassoulets: those of Toulouse, Castelnaudary, of Carcassonne, Perigourdin, etc. The slow cooking marries the flavors; the deep-dish presentation seals one's appetite. Be hungry or order something else.

Feuillete de magret aux peches ($21.95) translated to succulent duck breast wrapped in a puff pastry and engulfed in a peach reduction sauce. This dish was a tad heavy for my taste, as I would have preferred a peach glaze to the heavier sauce reduction. Sauteed vegetables of zucchini, squash and Shiitake mushroom accompanied it.

Le Pot au Feu offers several traditional desserts, some with a twist. Coupe Pot au Feu ($6.50), a fresh meringue, came in a gargantuan 50-ounce schooner, topped with scoops of vanilla ice cream, a cloud of whipped cream, house-made hot chocolate sauce and roasted almonds. This giant-sized sundae can easily satisfy the sweet tooth of two, perhaps three diners. Pledge your dining companions to secrecy if you do not want to share.

Warm apple tart with creme Anglaise a la vanille ($5.75) was a delicate puff pastry filled with sliced apples. The rich creme Anglaise (sweet custard made from eggs, sugar, vanilla and cream) coated but did not drown the pastry. The portion was, mercifully not overwhelming.

The creme brulee ($4.75) was less successful. Instead of the smooth custard I had expected, it was grainy and there were clots of granulated sugar on the bottom. I suspect the custard might not have been thoroughly cooked through before it left the stove to be cooled.

The decor of Le Pot au Feu reminds me of many bistros I have visited in southwest France. These are not like the chic eateries that populate the Left Bank of Paris; rather, they are homier and cozier, with more rustic interiors.

A very large mirror hung on one wall over a row of tables, upholstered booths lined another wall, and the tiled floor was laid for function, not aesthetics. The background music was French, the lighting subdued and candles dotted each of the linen-covered tables.

Devillez served as host and head waiter. The service was attentive, the kitchen prompt. There are two dining rooms, although only one was in use during my recent visits. In the summertime, there is a large patio area behind the restaurant.

The modest wine list was constructed to complement the menu, with selections from California, France and Australia. The Pinot Noir Bourgogne from Bouchard Aine & Fils, 2000, is a fine wine value at $28. There are many excellent and inexpensive wines grown in the Gaillac region that surrounds Albi, so if Devillez could import some of these wines to complement his chef's regional cuisine, it would make for interesting pairings.

"I want people to be happy in my restaurant, to enjoy good times and good food," Devillez said. "Our chef is one of the best French chefs anywhere. His life is all about food. He shops for food constantly. He rarely talks of anything but food."

That passion is amply reflected in this reborn citadel of French cookery.
LE POT au FEU Reservations: yes Credit cards: yes Parking: city lots Alcohol: beer and wine only Children: high chairs Outdoor dining: patio, summer only. Party and banquet facilities: yes Take out: yes Catering: no Noise level: moderate Bathroom cleanliness: excellent

Le Pot au Feu, 1149 El Camino Real, Menlo Park; (650) 322-4343

Hours: Dinner Tuesday -- Saturday 5 - 9:30 p.m.; Sunday 5 - 9 p.m.

E-mail a friend a link to this story.