A taste of something new A taste of something new (December 03, 2003)

by Anne Sturmthal Bergman

The cookbook selection this year runs the gamut from comprehensive cooking manuals to Jewish culture and cuisine. Each of these selections will surely enlighten the most well-read foodie.
"Lost Recipes: Meals to Share With Family and Friends," by Marion Cunningham; Knopf; 225 pp.; $22.50

This modest cookbook has a pretty good pedigree: It was written by Marion Cunningham, author of the "Fannie Farmer Cookbook."

In the introduction to "Lost Recipes," Cunningham notes the decline in the percentage of people cooking at home (now only 30-40 percent) and laments the loss of a ritual which helps bring people together. This book is designed as an encouraging step to "give home cooking another chance."

A practical aspect of this cookbook is that most of the recipes have ingredients which would be on hand in most reasonably stocked kitchens. No kaffir lime leaves, no exotic spices to grind -- only an occasional leek, turnip or rutabaga for which one may have to go shopping. The directions are simple and straightforward.

The "lost recipes" are tried and true versions of recipes that bring back the 1950s. Cream of tomato soup, turkey soup, and Sally Lunn bread conjure memories of dad off at work and mom, surrounded by children, kneading bread in the avocado colored kitchen. A good choice for those looking for nostalgic cooking.

"How to Cook Everything: Simple Recipes for great Food," by Mark Bittman; Wiley Publishing; 944 pp., $39.95

This large and heavy book has been recommended by my sons, who are learning how to cook but want something a little more adventuresome than the "Joy of Cooking." It covers all the basics: equipment; techniques; the 10 ingredients, which should be in the larder at all times; food safety; and the maxim that "simple things are best" to guide work in the kitchen.

The technique section includes information on how to use heat, the basics of grilling and broiling, roasting, sautéing, stir frying, deep frying, and cooking in liquid. The equipment section covers baking dishes, bowls, cutting boards, spoons, measuring devices, tools and appliances. These two sections are comprehensive, simple and practical. I found the book to have general appeal for any level of home chef, with a wide range of recipes.

I made Broad Rice Noodles with chilies, pork and basil. This is a delicious combination of flavors which was easy to put together. I also made Salmon Roasted in Butter, which was tasty, but not outstanding. The vinaigrette salad dressing was superb. The broiled or grilled Chicken with Lemon and Herbs was also simple and delicious.

I liked this book. It has a special menu selection for holidays, birthdays, religious days, etc. that is a good reference for new ideas of what to cook for these occasions. It also has a list of recipes that take less than 30 minutes to prepare and a comprehensive glossary. This is a very good book for beginners as well as more experienced chefs wanting some new ideas.
"The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York," by Claudia Roden; Knopf; 668 pp., $35

This attractive and comprehensive book has all the recipes that one would expect: Challah, bagels, tsimmes, hamentaschen, macaroons and rugelach, but it also has coconut yellow rice, mango granita, raita, pasta with anchovy sauce, and recipes from places as diverse as Burma, Bombay, Bukhara, Cairo, Yemen, Iraq, the former Soviet Union and Spain.

Moreover, it's a thoughtful history of the Jewish people, with a description of the life of the Ashkenazi Jews, from Eastern Europe, as well as the Sephardi world (including Ancient Baghdad, Medieval Spain and the Ottoman Empire).

I recommend this beautiful book for anyone who is interested in the diversity of Jewish culture, cooking, tradition and taste.

It will become one of my favorite reference cookbooks; something that I'll turn to again and again for new recipes, Jewish lore and good food. The book includes more than 800 Ashkenazi and Sephardi recipes.
"The Best American Recipes, 2003-2004," edited by Fran McCullough and Molly Stevens; Houghton Mifflin, 300 pp., $25

This cookbook is, simply put, fun. It includes a list of the top 10 recipes chosen as the favorites from magazines, newsletters, cookbooks, Web sites, food packages and insider information.

The authors tasted their way through thousands of recipes and anointed the recipes in this book as the best for 2003-04. There is a section called "The Year in Food" which notes the vegetable of the year, the tool of the year, the fruit of the year, the exotic cuisine of the year, technique of the year, trend of the year and ingredient of the year.

The recipes are not necessarily complex (spaghetti with tuna sauce, tortilla soup with chicken and avocado) but are diverse, easy to put together and are consistently outstanding.

I made Convent Chicken which surprisingly combines soy sauce, tarragon, garlic powder, paprika and lemon juice to make a delicious marinade, and chicken that is beautiful to look at and unusually tasty. Lemon Posset is similar to panecotta combining heavy cream, sugar and the juice of two lemons. It received accolades from the assembled tasters. This cook book has no illustrations, but a lot of very enticing recipes.

Anne Sturmthal Bergman is a local freelance writer and Title Pages contributor.

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