Singing for your supper Singing for your supper (January 24, 2003)

Max's Opera CafÈ serves up big plates and big voices

by Anthony Silk

I've always liked Max's. I used to live a couple of blocks away from the one in Redwood City (one of 15 in and around the Bay Area), and it was always the place to go when I wanted a big, New York-style corned beef sandwich ($8.95). Big, juicy, and delicious, it could transport me back home.

But I had never been to one of the four Max's Opera CafÈs, and was thrilled to learn they had recently revised their menu. The new menu, according to Brad Goldberg, regional manager for Max's, returns some of the lighthearted fun that had slowly worked its way out of the bill of fare. Another goal was to trim down the number of dishes, focusing on the more popular dishes, so as to maintain competitive pricing. This strategy hasn't left the menu thin by any means; at nine pages -- not including drinks and desserts -- Max's still has plenty of offerings.

If you are wondering what separates an Opera CafÈ from a standard Max's, it's the singing staff. And they sing more than just "Happy Birthday" (although their rendition sounds fantastic). Accompanied by a live pianist every evening, the servers and hosts take "breaks" between customers' orders to belt out a tune. They're really good, too. Our server the third night, Amy Williams, is studying voice at Foothill College on her way to a musical career. A cheerful server and a wonderful singer, she even took a song request along with our order.

Of course, Max's is going to do more than just fill your head with a ballad or a Broadway tune. They are going to fill your stomach with plenty of food. Trust the words on the door that read "This is a bad place for a diet."

Of the 30 or so appetizers you will find everything from latkes ($4.95) to nachos ($7.50 for a full order), with most leaning toward standard bar fare. I couldn't resist the latkes -- big, fluffy pillows of shredded potatoes and onions, deep-fried to near perfection. Because of their thickness they tended to be a little greasy in the middle -- nothing that a couple of pats with a paper towel wouldn't soak up, but otherwise wonderful, even without the sides of apple sauce and sour cream.

The appetizer of baked giant mushrooms ($5.95) on the other hand, didn't deliver. The mushrooms were not particularly large, but there was so much oil that when mixed with the pesto, what remained looked like a clear green soup. Tasty, but not particularly appetizing.

All was redeemed, however, with the Rueben Bytes ($4). Corned beef, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese fried in a rye crust until the mixture ends up looking like a little hush puppy. An order consists of about eight of these flavorful nuggets. Eaten alone, or coated with the accompanying side of Thousand Island dressing, they are irresistible. It's as if Dunkin' Donuts had gone deli; try to eat just one.

I tried to cover the gamut of entrees, and still only succeeded in tasting less than half of the meals available, let alone specific dishes. My first evening there I opted for the salmon with lemon Dijon sauce ($16.95). Although the salmon was cooked throughout (I prefer it pink in the middle) it was still moist and tender. But I found the sauce overwhelming, unnecessarily covering the entire fish. Although I do enjoy a big plate of food, sometimes less is more. The same goes for the potato-onion cake that accompanied it. Bigger than the latke -- almost the size of your fist -- it had less flavor than the appetizer.

My companion that first night had the pressed chicken with mangos ($13.95). Like my salmon, it too suffered from an overindulgence of toppings, but was otherwise excellent.

On my next visit I decided to go "light" by ordering from the three-page salad list. I chose Guy's Chinese chicken salad ($10.95). My hopes for a light meal were dashed by this feast of lettuce, onions, Chinese noodles and what appeared to be two entire chicken breasts --lightly fried and covered with chopped peanuts. My mouth was thrilled. My waist was less than enthusiastic.

My brother ordered the portabella mushroom linguine ($9.95), a heaping bowl of mushrooms, herbs, garlic and noodles. I would have preferred more garlic, but my brother, in deference to his wife, was happy where it stood.

On my third visit I tried the Chopped Steak Extraordinaire ($11.95). Available with a starter ($3), I chose the bistro salad with its tomatoes, bleu cheese, bacon, walnuts and grapes. At least it's low-carb. Otherwise, the salad was a nice combination of complementary flavors I'd be happy to order as an entree ($9.95).

I was less pleased with the chopped steak. In an effort to fill it completely with spinach, brie, bacon, mushrooms and onions, the meat was spread too thin, making it tougher than it should have been. As with the salmon, a little less would have gone further.

My companion chose the pulled roasted Carolina pork ($9.95) on a corn cake and black beans. This was the prettiest dish of all my visits, stacked high with tangy pork and drizzled with sour cream. My only complaint was that the corn pancake was sitting on top of the beans, absorbing their flavor and losing the chance to make its own mark.

Like the main meals, desserts don't come small. But don't pass up the opportunity to sample at least one, even if it means boxing up your entree so you have room (half-size desserts are available). Try the apple pie ($4.50), a huge slice filled with soft, flavorful apples and covered with a mouth-watering crust topped with sugar. Another option is the Niagara Falls cake ($6.95), with its multiple layers of chocolate cake and ganache.

Service every night was friendly, although a bit on the slow side. But the delay just meant I got to enjoy more of the music. During the warmer months you may want to order a sandwich from the window located just outside the restaurant, and eat al fresco.

Max's offers a good selection of wines by the bottle ($17 and up), with most available by the glass. There is also a full, three-story bar serving mixed and specialty drinks, bottled and draft beer.

If you've been watching your budget lately and don't get to go out as much as you used to, I would certainly recommend spending an evenings at Max's. You'll get a good meal for a reasonable price, and go home humming.

Max's Opera Cafe, 711 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto; (650) 323-6297

Hours: 11:30 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thu.; 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

Atmosphere: A mixture of tables and inviting booths provide an easy-going yet elegant feel, not unlike many upscale restaurants in New York City or Las Vegas.

Highlights: Rueben bytes ($4); Guy's Chinese chicken salad ($10.95); corned beef sandwich ($8.95); any of the desserts ($3-$7).

Price Range: Starters: $4-$13; Entrees: $7.50-$24; Desserts: $3-$7.
Reservations: Yes Credit Cards: Yes Valet and lot Parking: Yes Alcohol: Yes Takeout: Yes Highchairs: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes Banquet: No Catering: Yes Outdoor seating: Yes Noise level: Moderate Bathrooms: Avg.