he newest Palo Alto pizzeria owes its name to a mangled Janis Joplin lyric: "Take it, take another pizza my heart now baby." I guess it was wishful thinking that the giant slices were in some way heart-healthy.
Opened a couple months ago, Pizza My Heart replaced Burger King as one of seven restaurants owned by pizza magnate Chuck Hammers. His local empire encompasses four other Pizza My Hearts and two Pizza A Go Go restaurants, with one of each on University Avenue.
So what is the difference between the two? Simple: the recipe. Go Go's crust is thicker and fluffier, while Heart's is a thin, hand-tossed type designed to emulate New York pizza.
"We have found we have devoted fans of each in Palo Alto," Hammers said.
His love for pizza-by-the-slice (a college habit) prompted him to open a Pizza A Go Go in San Jose. Shortly after, he took over the Pizza My Heart chain, which originated from a bedroom-sized storefront on Capitola Beach. That little pizzeria is still a surfer hangout, and can attract lines of beachcombers that reach 100, Hammers said.
Now he's brought the waves to Palo Alto. The surfing theme at the chain's University Avenue outlet takes the form of posters, photographs and paraphernalia crowding the walls. Surf, rock and classic soul tunes set the tone, while the room's decor -- warm yellow walls, dark woods and hammered copper surfaces - create an inviting atmosphere. There's plenty of seating, ranging from large booths to individual bar stools to tables.
The gigantic slices are certainly nothing to complain about. A slice and a soft drink come in well under $5. For a quick lunch, you can't beat that.
At the front of the restaurant, they display each of the varieties offered, which include cheese, pepperoni, pesto or mushroom. You can order a whole pizza ($9.50-$23.50), but the slices are the real focus. Once you choose your slice, a staff member slides it into the oven to warm it up.
On multiple visits, I noted a breakdown at this stage. They lacked a solid system to match slices with customers, so mine often ended up on someone else's plate.
But the taste of the pizza made up for such annoyances. My favorite was the Prima ($2.75), topped with fresh tomatoes, feta cheese and black olives. The olives are of the plain, canned variety but quickly took me back to childhood when I used to eat them out of the jar. The tomatoes, though not in season, still managed to be bright red and flavorful. And the pungent feta added just the right kick to this fresh and light combo.
There's nothing mystifying about these pizzas. The very large slices boast a crispy crust, savory sauce and an appropriate amount of mozzarella cheese. None of the toppings is particularly exotic. But the $2.25-$3 cost range per slice puts it all in perspective. The pizza holds its own and the price fits any pocketbook.
The pepperoni slice certainly hit the spot. I also savored the veggie ($3), which had roma tomatoes, fresh mushrooms, artichoke hearts, red onions, black olives and green peppers piled high on top of the cheese, with just the perfect amount of crunch. The clam and garlic slice had a nice coastal flavor ($3), with lots of intense fresh garlic and a sprinkling of fresh parsley. But there was a bit of grit remaining from the clams, which would prohibit me from ordering that again.
That said, one of the staff members told me I could try something else if I was unhappy with the clam and garlic slice -- a positive sign that they're willing to make customers happy.
One night, I went with my 7-year-old sister, who said the pizza was "the best she had ever had" and gave the cheese slice ($2.25) a grinning thumbs up. I liked how my pesto slice ($2.75) had a red, white, and green-swirled design of tomato sauce, cheese, and the basil-garlic mixture.
Evening featured fluorescent-like lighting, and the workers were not as on-the-ball as those on the lunch crew -- with even more counter mix-ups. The aura at night evoked shades of Burger King, with a cold, lonely atmosphere -- almost the exact opposite of the daytime mood.
No matter what time of day, don't bother with the salads. Packed in plastic containers in a refrigerated case, they did not appeal to me visually. When I did try one, it suffered from semi-wilted greens that had not been adequately rinsed, leaving a sandy texture. The balsamic dressing for the chicken walnut salad was delicious -- too bad the salad wasn't. In addition to the wilted greens, the chicken, walnut and gorgonzola toppings were skimpy ($4.75).
Pizza My Heart offers "meal deals," such as a salad with a slice for $5.75-$7.75. But my recommendation is to get one or two slices with a refillable soda ($1.50).
Their pizza truly puts a smile on folks' faces. Young and elderly, wealthy and homeless -- customers of every shape and size enjoy themselves while sunlight dapples through the tall windows.
Pizza is a universal language, and it's spoken well at Pizza My Heart.
Pizza My Heart, 220 University Ave., Palo Alto (650) 327-9400
Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-midnight; Fri.-Sun. 11 a.m.-2 a.m.
Atmosphere: Lots of space and ample seating are a plus. Warm yellow walls are accented by hammered copper surfaces, dark woods and chrome sconce lighting. Tall windows let in sunshine. A surfing theme, complete with posters, photographs and music, pervades.
Highlights: Thin-crust pizza slices are the name of the game, from $2.25-$3 each. Sodas are refillable ($1.50). Prima, veggie, pepperoni, pesto and cheese are all reliable bets.
Reservations: No
Credit Cards: Yes
Valet Parking: No
Alcohol: Yes
Takeout: Yes
Highchairs: Yes
Wheelchair Access: Yes
Banquet: No
Outdoor seating: No
Noise Level: Low
Bathroom cleanliness: Average to high
