Fabbro's: the next generation Fabbro's: the next generation (November 23, 2001)

Longtime Redwood City restaurant thrives under a new chef

by Dale F. Bentson

The story of Fabbro's can be traced back to 1933, when George and Mary Fabbro opened first a bar and then a cafÈ after Prohibition was repealed. George had made a little money and gained a lot of experience during the Depression as a bootlegger and speakeasy proprietor. Their little enterprise on El Camino Real slowly gained a steady clientele and for years Fabbro's was known for its lively bar scene, which also served food.

Third-generation restaurateur Michael Fabbro took the reins three and a half years ago, and after some initial remodeling he set out to refine and improve the quality of the restaurant fare. The cozy, well-appointed 65-seat restaurant still boasts a full bar and two banquet rooms. Early this year Fabbro brought in Marcos Belfiore, an Argentina native raised in Menlo Park, to upgrade the kitchen. A California Culinary Academy graduate, he honed his skills at Lulu's, Bizou and Spendido's, all top-flight restaurants in San Francisco.

Fabbro's offers several antipasti plates. One mouth-watering dish is gamberoni alla griglia ($10.95), featuring four flavorful jumbo prawns wrapped in pancetta (Italian bacon) and served in a creamy tomato-garlic tarragon sauce. Sharp and flavorful carpaccio ($8.95) -- thin slices of delicate near-raw beef served with fresh greens, parmesan cheese, capers, red onion and a dollop of Dijon mustard -- succeeds in piquing the appetite.

At one dinner we tried the special soup of the day ($5), a creamy shrimp bisque that was a tad on the bland side. Fabbro's also offers several salads, including an unusual and tasty spinaci della Mona ($6), baby spinach tossed with grapefruit, bacon and goat cheese dressed in blackberry vinaigrette.

While not on the menu, risotto is offered as a special several nights per week, and has become Belfiore's signature dish, Fabbro said. The special seafood risotto ($18.50) featured a tomato base whisked with calamari and scallops and topped with filets of grilled sea bass. Luscious and creamy, it was the best I have had outside of Italy. Ravioli pomodoro ($13.95), veal and spinach-filled ravioli nestled in a tomato basil sauce, was also divine. My companion's pumpkin ravioli ($13.95), dressed in sage butter and morels, was as unusual as it was delightful. Each ravioli plate was stacked with plump little pasta pillows stuffed with their own specialty.

Gamba di Angello ($15.95), braised lamb shank with orange and currents in red wine sauce, is enticing. The lamb was fall-off-the-bone tender; the wine sauce a reduction that glazed the meat and enhanced the delectable flavors. The dish was accompanied with mashed potatoes and thinly sliced, flash-sautÈed zucchini. These are flavors worth savoring.

Although Fabbro's menu is not overwhelmingly long, they do offer a variety of entrees, from a catch of the day to bistecca, a New York steak ($20.95). The menu is well composed and the compactness allows the kitchen to excel in the dishes it offers. All entrees are served with accompaniments.

The luncheon menu is the same as the dinner menu, with a few minor price modifications. Lunch also offers two sandwiches that are not on the dinner menu: petto di pollo, ($10.95) a chicken-breast sandwich with mozzarella cheese, roasted red peppers and caramelized onions; and a cheeseburger ($10.95).

The runaway star of the dessert menu was the torta di formaggio, house-made cheesecake that is an absolute must. Featuring a graham cracker crust, this is melt-in-your-mouth old-fashioned sin. Almost equally good is the budini di pane, a warm bread pudding sauced with butterscotch. The tiramisu is good but not distinguished, while the flavorless torta di cioccolata, -- flourless chocolate with whipped cream and amaretto crumbs - was the only dessert that disappointed. All desserts are $6, except for sorbet and gelatos ($5.50).Fancy coffees and a broad selection of after-dinner drinks tops out the menu.

The well-priced wine list offers a compact selection of California and Italian wines, at least half of which are offered by the glass ($5.50 - $9.50). Barbera d'Asti, Michele Chiarlo ($24), a 1997 red wine from Piedmont, is an outstanding value. Fresh, fruity and well balanced, it is one of the best buys I have had in a restaurant in years. A 1997 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva ($38), robust and hardy, stood up well to our selections that evening. Fabbro's offers five wines in half bottles, too --unusual in this day of preposterously priced wine lists.

Fabbro's is a comfortable and delightful dining experience. Belfiore is excelling in the kitchen and the prices are very reasonable. With a full bar, loads of free parking and an attentive and knowledgeable wait staff, Fabbro's might just be around for three more generations.

Fabbro's, 2915 El Camino Real, Redwood City, (650) 368-1491

Hours: Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tues.-Fri.; Dinner is served 5:30-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 5:30-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat.; 5-9 p.m. on Sunday.

Atmosphere: Handsome dÈcor.

Highlights: Reasonably priced, well prepared Italian fare, including outstanding risotto and excellent desserts. A compact, well-priced wine list offers terrific values.
Reservations: X
Credit cards X
Parking X
Full bar X
Banquet X
Wheelchair X Access
Highchairs X
Take out X
Outdoor seating NO