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Reviews

Following are condensed versions, in alphabetical order, of longer restaurant reviews published in the Weekly over the past several years. This week's reviews begin where the list ended one week ago.

Hangen Szechuan Restaurant, 134 Castro St., Mountain View. (650) 964-8881. @movietext:This simple restaurant features some of the best Chinese food for the price in Mountain View, a city with many Chinese restaurants. Among appetizers, the pot stickers are a house favorite and for good reason. There is also a mouth-watering selection of cold appetizers such as Chinese chicken salad, cold shredded chicken with peanut butter sauce, and wine flavored chicken. Hangen Szechuan offers a fine array of main dishes, covering all the usual territories from shrimp and scallops to beef and pork. The restaurant also serves a variety of tofu and vegetarian courses. Among the house specialties are General Teou's Chicken, deep fried chicken sauteed in a sweet-sour, brownish sauce; kung pao scallops, tender and juicy Canadian scallops stir-fried with peanuts in a spicy brown sauce; prawns in walnut cream sauce, lightly fried prawns stir mixed with a cream sauce; and the Emerald Shrimp. Hours: Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:15 a.m.-2 p.m., Sat. & Sun. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner daily 5-9:30 p.m. $ (Reviewed Nov. 7, 1997)

Higashi West, 636 Emerson St., Palo Alto, (650) 323-9378 @movietext:Higashi West's expansion and remodeling have been a long time coming. The restaurant has doubled in size, annexing the vacated storefront next door. The space is now an enormous rectangle topped by soaring 25-foot ceilings with lots of exposed ductwork, rough unfinished beams and a mess of black Italian track lighting. A forest of black lacquered bamboo sculptures separate the old space from the new space. The restaurant has for years catered to an urbane group charmed by its seamless but still ironic East/West cuisine. (A largely Japanese restaurant serving a Caesar salad is not a joke, but it's not not a joke, either--and that's what the regulars understand.) There are exotic sushi specials every night, but the bulk of the menu is made up of what they call "cold tsumami" dishes and "hot tsumami" dishes and a list of house sushi specials. Hours: Monday-Saturday 5:30-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed Dec. 25, 1998)

Homma's Brown Rice Sushi, 2363 B Birch St., Palo Alto, (650) 327-6118 @movietext:Befitting the name, Homma's serves only brown rice sushi. The chef's specials allow you to get a variety of items for a very reasonable price ($5.80-$7.50). Homma's strength is nigiri, and most pieces run $2.80. The rolls--both the hosomaki (rice inside the seaweed) and the uramaki (rice outside the seaweed)--were also well worth ordering and cost between $3.50-$3.75). Also try the donburi ($7.50-$8.60), which offers a bowl of several sushi pieces placed on top of a bed of rice. The brown rice salad ($5.80 vegetables only; $8.60 with assorted sushi and veggies) is also tempting. Homma's also serves a nice array of yasaimaki (vegetarian sushi), including umekyu (plum and cucumber) and yamaimo (mountain yam), for very reasonable prices ($1.95-$2.40). Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for lunch Mon.-Fri.; 5-9 p.m. for dinner Mon.-Fri.; 12:30-2:30 p.m. for Sat. lunch; 5-9:30 p.m. for Sat. dinner; closed Sun. $ (Reviewed June 16, 2000)

Hunan Garden, 3345 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 565-8868 @movietext:There are no Chinese zodiac placemats to provide tableside instruction on the compatibility of the rat, pig, dog or monkey. There are no paper lanterns or peculiar bits of Chinese cultural jetsam. Hunan Garden is all about stylish good taste. Opened in 1998, it may well be the prettiest Chinese restaurant on the Peninsula. Designed by San Franciscan Bruce Yelaska, the dining room is spare and uncluttered, with an uncanny use of color and texture. And here's the kicker: The food is just as refined. The classics are all here (lemon chicken, mushu pork), but the spareribs with spicy salt, soft fried tofu (brought in from San Francisco every day) and heads-on spicy shrimp are not to be missed. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 4:30-9:30 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed Oct. 9, 1998)

Iberia, 1026 Alma St., Menlo Park, (650) 325-8981 @movietext: After 14 years of serving classic Spanish dishes and tapas in Portola Valley, Iberia relocated to the site of the former Garden Grill Restaurant in Menlo Park, on Alma St. across from the train station. Owners of both places, Jose Luis and Jessica Relinque, decided they wanted to open a gourmet food shop, but running two restaurants and a store would be too much. Thus the consolidation of restaurants, and Iberia's move. You'll find a menu dominated by garlic, seafood, olives, olive oil and tomatoes. The seasonal menu changes frequently. Dinner is better than lunch, where seared scallops tend to be overcooked and pricey to boot, and skirt steak sandwich, or pasta tubes stuffed with chicken and veal tend to be bland. Shrimp sautÈed with garlic, paprika and sherry is a spectacular, flaming dish, with an orgasmic sauce that invites plate licking. But it's pricey at $25.50 for two. A succulent veal chop is glossed with a tomato-pepper-hazelnut sauce. Chilled tomato-garlic soup is enlivened by an egg-tuna-ham garnish. Tapas, Spanish-style appetizers, perfect for grazing, are authentic here, including a typical potato and onion egg tortilla, spicy sausage and melted cheese toast, and mushrooms sautÈed with plenty of garlic and parsley. Desserts are divine, including a zesty, orangy flan and sublimely sweet roasted figs stuffed with pistachios. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m.; Sat.-Sun. 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. $$$$ (Reviewed November 3, 2000)

Il Fornaio Cucina Italiana, 520 Cowper St., Palo Alto, (650) 853-3888 @movietext:Mirrored walls, a glamorous Italian bar and courtyard filled with flowers highlight this flashy and attractive Italian cafe and restaurant. With an over-full house to care for, dinner servers whisk by, intimidating diners into asking as little as possible. But the food lives up to the restaurant's tony reputation. Il Fornaio's big attraction any time of day is its breads. Each table gets a full basket of crisp bread sticks, salty rosemary rolls or whatever has just come out of the oven. An ever-changing menu keeps the kitchen staff from taking anything for granted. Always make a reservation. Hours: Monday-Thursday 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Friday 7 a.m.-midnight, Saturday 8 a.m-12 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m.-11 p.m. $$$$ (Reviewed March 11, 1994)

i Fratelli, 388 Main St., Los Altos, (650) 941-9636 @movietext:As you approach, the aroma of garlic draws you nearer. And the bright, bustling atmosphere, open kitchen and upbeat staff make for lively dining. The possibility of sitting outside at one of a handful of small tables on a warm spring evening is a plus. I Fratelli's menu changes approximately every six weeks or so, with a range of pastas and risottos. Dishes usually aim for simple, straightforward contemporary Italian flavors: Roasted whole garlic with focaccia, tortellini studded with artichoke hearts and veal scaloppine. Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. $$ (Reviewed May 8, 1998)

In-N-Out Burger, 1159 N. Rengstorff Ave., Mountain View, (800) 786-1000 @movietext:Like its L.A. homeland, there is so much hype surrounding In-N-Out Burger that it would be tough to live up to expectations. And, in general, it doesn't. Still, news last year of the plans to open an In-N-Out Burger location on Rengstroff Avenue, at U.S. 101, in Mountain View was greeted with much enthusiasm locally. People who had heard of the Southern California-based, legendary hamburger joints just couldn't wait to get their mitts on a couple of juicy delights. Plain and simple, In-N-Out Burger is a fast-food restaurant that serves competent food from an extremely focused (read limited) menu. Burgers, fries, shakes. If you like fast food, you'll probably like In-N-Out. But the burgers here simply don't compare to the gourmet likes of Clarke's or Boardwalk. Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 10:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. $ (Reviewed June 26, 1998)

Izzy's Brooklyn Bagels, 470 California St., Palo Alto, (650) 329-0700 @movietext:The search for authentic bagels is over when you walk into Izzy's, where bagels are boiled, not steamed, before they are baked. The result - a slightly crunchy exterior, and moist, chewy interior, with more flavor and texture. After all, Herb Caen said a steamed bagel is only "Bread with a hole in the middle." You'll find 17 varieties of bagels here, and just about as many shmears to put on them. Gourmet cookies are stuffed with surprises - chocolate filling in the chocolate chip, coconut filling in the macaroon. The rugulah - in raspberry, cinnamon, apricot and chocolate - are really good too. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 6 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sat. 7 a.m.-2 p.m.; Sun. 7 a.m.-3 p.m. $ (Reviewed Dec. 22, 2000)

Janta Indian Cuisine, 369 Lytton Avenue, Palo Alto, (650) 462-5903 @movietext:Janta calls the bluff of Indian restaurants that have gotten lazy. This tiny restaurant cooks everything from scratch. Even the lowly garbanzo bean is roasted before it's boiled. It's attention to detail that gives Janta's dishes their flavor highs. Janta's finesse with spices means dishes don't have to depend on chilis for flavor. One of the best mild offerings is shrimp biryani, an exotically-flavored rice pilaf studded with tender shrimp and cashew nuts ($12.95 dinner). Hours: Monday-Friday lunch buffet from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Tuesday-Saturday dinner from 5-10 p.m.; Sunday and Monday dinner 5-9:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday brunch buffet noon-2:30 p.m. Lunch buffet is $7.25. Brunch buffet is $8.95. $$ (Reviewed April 29, 1994)

Jidaiya, 330 Lytton Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 325-2696 @movietext:Jidaiya has the atmosphere of an authentic sushi bar, always important when eating Japanese. The food is solid, reasonably priced and ample, and the ambiance is always festive, bordering on frenetic. Only the service is a turnoff, with the waitresses appearing grim and overworked. Recommended are the vegetable tempura, spicy tuna roll, hamachi negi and miso soup. In addition, there are a number of soba and ramen noodle dishes, packed with pork slices, chicken and veggies. The core of the menu is a mid-length list of two-piece nigiri ($3.50-$9), six-piece small rolls ($4-$5.25) and four-piece special large rolls ($6.50-$8). Tightly rolled and simply plated, the fish is fresh and combinations are straightforward. The best rolls tend to be the classics--rosy red tekka maki ($4), wedges of crunchy cucumber hidden in rice and nori ($3.50), yellowtail gussied up with a curl of green onion ($4.50). Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, 6-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday $$ (Reviewed May 5, 2000)

John Bentley's Restaurant, 2991 Woodside Road, Woodside, (650) 851-4988. @movietext: On the outside, the 75-year old building is as quaint as what it once was--Woodside's original old firehouse. On the inside, it is an upbeat, intimate dining experience with a contemporary American menu that isn't afraid to have fun with flavors. Throughout the menu, a medley of fruits, nuts and vegetables coalesce to complement main dishes and appetizers that range from the surprising to the sublime. There is a little of everything on the entree menu: fish, seafood, poultry, lamb, beef, veal, venison and pasta including a nice artichoke and caramelized onion ravioli ($15.95) for the vegetarian. The restaurant is always humming so you'll need to make weekend reservations two or three weeks in advance, although things soften up some during the week. And John Bentley's has an equally interesting lunch menu full of sandwiches, entrees, salads and starters. Hours: Tuesday-Friday lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Tuesday-Sunday dinner 5-9 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed April 25, 1997)

Juban, 712 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 473-6458 @movietext:Carefully tending the bite-sized niblets of meat and seafood on the grill is a part of the fun of eating at Juban's. The restaurant operates on the principle of grill-it-yourself dining, trendy Tokyo style. Grills are built into each tabletop and the waitstaff is more than happy to let you know how long to grill the chicken and where best to place the scallops on the heat. There should be a main course on the menu to suit every taste: beef rib-eye, short ribs with soy and ginger marinade, beef liver, chicken, tiger prawns, bay scallops with sesame and a vegetarian plate. The menu also sports a choice selection of Asian salads, soups, and noodle and rice bowls, but no sushi. For a do-it-yourself restaurant, service is astounding. Hours: Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed June 19, 1998)

jZcool, 827 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 325-3669 @movietext:At jZcool, all produce is organic, meats are natural, breads are certified organic, Clover and Horizon dairy products don't contain any nefarious stuff, there are organic wines, natural juices and range-fed chickens. The cooking style reflects a healthful sensibility, with food being simply and respectfully treated. Located at the tail end of Menlo Park's little business district on Santa Cruz Avenue, the cafe has a breezy, eat-in-or-takeout approach. You order at the counter, selecting from a long display case of salads, six to nine hot dishes and a short menu of sandwiches, burgers and hot dogs. You choose a drink, pay and take a seat at one of the small tables or along the great stretch of communal seating that runs the length of the cafe. The place is an extremely pleasant place to linger. A number of dishes are slightly pricey and a bit bland. Where jZcool shines is with cold salads and desserts. Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tues.-Sat., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sun. $ (Reviewed Feb. 18, 2000)

Kamei Japanese House, 240 Castro St. Mountain View, (650) 964-6990 @movietext:Kamei has a large menu that goes beyond the usual teriyaki, tempura and sushi, and is one of the few Japanese restaurants in the Bay Area that features "robata" cuisine, or Japan's version of barbecue. The combination dinners encourage trying some of this unfamiliar, but delicious cuisine. Besides the usual miso soup and small green salad, our meal consisted of a series of small plates put on the table individually. The first batch consisted of a small portion of nicely cooked salmon, a plate of tiny ribs and flat, black mushrooms in a slightly sweet, slightly sticky sauce. The robata style ("by the fireside") serves this kind of food well. The small portions cook quickly, preserving maximum freshness and taste. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri., noon-2:30 p.m. Sat., no lunch on Sun.; Dinner 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs. and Sun.; 5-11 p.m. Sat. $ (Reviewed April 28, 1995)

King Chuan Restaurant, 75 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, (650) 323-6550. @movietext: Amid a no-frills dÈcor, you'll find tasty Peking and Szechuan dishes, served in a fast and efficient manner. The restaurant has been around almost a quarter of a decade, and its age shows. But don't let that deter you from experiencing classics such as a version of egg foo young that's pure comfort food. Mongolian beef is fresh and flavorful, but far from spicy. In fact, none of the dishes here register on the heat meter. No matter, the flavors are outstanding anyway, especially in the perfectly sautÈed green beans. A wide variety of lunch specials includes a yummy shrimp with black bean sauce or almond chicken. Prices are extremely fair; where else can you get a frosty glass of Tsing Tao beer for $2.50? Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. (lunch specials available 11 a.m.-3 p.m.); Sat.-Sun. 4 p.m.-9 p.m. $ (Reviewed Oct. 20, 2000)

Kirk's Steakburgers, 361 California Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 326-6159 @movietext:It looks like a 1950s no-frills Boy Scout camp. A big cinderblock square kitted out with vinyl booths, Kirk's Steakburgers has been doing what it does since 1948. That's 50 years of unswervingly flipping burgers and making shakes, sometimes by the same hardy souls (they have several employees with more than 40 years' tenure). Last year, Kirk's added Western fries and scoop-shop ice cream to its list of offerings, changes that were treated with the fanfare and media attention of a total solar eclipse or a papal visit. Don't come looking for ambience: The interior is softened by a thick meaty fog (part abattoir, part forest fire) and the patio is a pleasant enough gravel garden. Folks go to Kirk's for the double Swiss steakburger (tip: take off your watch to avoid the river of juice that runs out of the burger, down one's hand, aiming for the elbow), the chocolate shakes and the splitters (a split hot dog with cheese on top). Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed Oct. 16, 1998)

Krispy Kreme Doughnuts, 2146 Leghorn St., Mountain View, CA, (650) 254-1231. @movietext: Who can resist the hot, sugar glazed doughnuts coming off Krispy Kreme's production line? It's a good thing they can pump out 3000 doughnuts an hour. The original glazed doughnut is classic - yeasty, not too sweet, and only 170 calories - the perfect indulgence. Cream or jelly filled doughnuts are not to be missed, especially the chocolate covered cream filled ones. Thanks to big picture windows at the Mountain View store, you can watch doughnuts take shape, and ask questions along the way. Just be sure to sit down and eat a doughnut immediately after you buy it, to taste it when it's hot enough to melt in your mouth. Look for the "Hot Doughnuts Now" sign - when it's on that means the glazed doughnut production line is in full swing, the best time to buy them. Hours: Inside counter Sun.-Thu. 5:30 a.m.-midnight; Fri.-Sat. 5:30 a.m.-1 a.m.; Drive-thru open 24 hours, 7 days a week. $ (Reviewed Sept. 22, 2000)

Krung Siam Thai Cuisine, 423 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 322-5900 @movietext:Krung Siam was bold enough to open its doors practically across the street from the well-established Siam Royal and now appears poised to give the other Thai eatery a run for its money. Both serve up a good Siam-style dinner, but there's just something about Krung Siam. A touch of idiosyncratic charm pervades the place, as it has each of the restaurants that have occupied its space, most recently Kyoto Sushi. On a busy night, diners are plentiful and service is hectic. There are all of the Thai menu regulars, plus some exotics like Angel Wings (boneless chicken wings stuffed with chicken breast and sweet and sour sauce) and Heart Girl (a whole prawn stuffed with ground pork.) Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Dinner daily 5-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed Nov. 27, 1998)

Ladera Country Deli, 3140 Alpine Rd., Portola Valley, (650) 851-4254 @movietext: This tiny place is the epitome of the neighborhood deli. Just about everything is made here (except bagels, muffins and breads), and roast beef and turkey are roasted daily. There's so many sandwiches - the Ladera club with smoked turkey, cheese, bacon and ham; fresh mozzarella with pesto, sundried tomato paste and spinach; hot meatball with provolone cheese; roast beef with cream cheese - to name a few. Homemade soups - chicken noodle, corn chowder, cream of mushroom - are served during cold weather months, and there's an assortment of hot dishes such as lasagna and tamales. Oh, and don't forget the excellent salads - pasta, coleslaw, chicken, etc., etc. Service is efficient and friendly, and you can eat in or take away. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 7:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sat. 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m.-3 p.m. $ (Reviewed Nov. 17, 2000)

La Gondola Ristorante, 242 State St., Los Altos, (650) 941-7702 @movietext:The latest in Northern Italian restaurants in downtown Los Altos, La Gondola offers straightforward pastas and familiar veal dishes at fair prices. The atmosphere is simultaneously romantic and comfortable, and is kid-friendly. The pastas are all exceedingly reasonable, priced between $9.50 and $12.50, and are great for sharing as a second course. Chicken, veal and pork entrees are also reasonably priced (between $11.50 and $17.50) and generously portioned. Veal scaloppini plays a leading role, as do sauteed chicken breast with Italian fixings. La Gondola has all the Italian favorites, with the housemade tiramisu ($4.75) the best offering. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; dinner Sun.-Thurs.5-9:30 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 5-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Jan. 28, 2000)

Lakeside Cafe, 3160 N. Shoreline Blvd. (by the lake at Shoreline Park), Mountain View, (650) 965-1745 @movietext:OK, propeller heads of Mountain View, it's been six hours since you've taken a break, and it's still only noon. You're sitting in a climate-controlled cubicle inside some cryptically named computer company that makes cool cyber-somethings for the Internet. It's time for a complete change of scenery and pace. Formerly a junkyard, hog farm and sanitary treatment plant, Shoreline Park now features a 50-acre sailing lake, 18-hole golf course and seven miles of trails. As one would expect from the name, the cafe is right on the lake, and you can watch the sailboats and board sailers skim across the dark water from prime seats in the sun or shade, while eating an Asian chicken salad or a turkey and Swiss on sourdough. Hours: 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday; 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. $ (Reviewed July 16, 1999)

Late For The Train, 150 Middlefield Road, Menlo Park, (650) 321-6124 @movietext:Late for the Train might be one of the area's most venerable breakfast spots. Opened 23 years ago by Bob Cool and then wife Jesse Cool (chef/owner of Flea St. Cafe) near the Menlo Park train station, Late for the Train moved to its current Middlefield digs a while back. The restaurant has the feel of a place that's been around forever--flotsam and jetsam cast off over the years by employees amd customers decorates the place. There's a waiting area done up in white wicker, with an overflowing basket of kids' toys to entertain small visitors. A hodgepodge of plates, black and white prints and hanging plants cover the walls. Perhaps the restaurant's most interesting feature is a white board near the entrance that lists all the organic foodstuffs used. Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. daily; 5-9 p.m. Tues.-Sat. $ (Reviewed Feb. 19, 1999)

Left at Albuquerque, 445 Emerson Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 326-1011 @movietext:Left at Albuquerque's concept can only be described as some kind of blend of West, Mex, Tex, Mex-Tex, West-Mex, Des-West (is desert food a genre yet?) and Cal. The result something akin to nouveau Southwest. They've got a great, bright decor that unabashedly mixes hubcabs with horse stuff, and a menu that doesn't see the irony in dishes like Tierra del Fuego Caesar salad and chili relleno tempura. Thanks to clever use of spinach, radish powder and corn powder, the tortillas come in vivid shades of green, yellow and orange--exactly the same colors as the walls and upholstery. Rice is green. Beans are black. And the chips, a mix of blue and orange, look as though they were arranged in the basket by a decorator. Great drinks; 88 kinds of tequila. Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; 5-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed June 2, 1995)

Left Bank, 635 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 473-6543 @movietext:Executive chef/co-owner Roland Passot has owned La Folie, one of the Bay Area's most highly regarded bastions of French fare, before pairing up with Edward Levine (former CEO for Gordon Biersch Brewing Company and CFO of Il Fornaio) to open this chic, casual French bistro on the main drag in Menlo Park. What they are calling "cuisine grand-mere" translates as expertly prepared steak frites, roast chicken, bouillabaise, tarte Tatin and so forth--French comfort food. Left Bank's mixologists also whip up some mean cocktails. Designed by San Francisco architect Michael Guthrie, the restaurant's interior is chic, breezy and comfortable. Lots of light and a kind of bustling professionalism along the long open kitchen make the dining room at once casual and urbane. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday and Monday; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday. $$ (Reviewed Sept. 5, 1998)

Le Petit Bistro, 1405 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View; (650) 964-3321. @movietext:Twelve years after it opened its doors, Le Petit Bistro is still rightfully regarded as one of the best restaurants in Mountain View. Wonderfully romantic and intimate in atmosphere, Le Petit Bistro has an intriguing and delicious menu. Recommended are the escargots de bourgogne ($8.95), the scallone ($11), and the lobster bisque ($6.50). Entrees include filet de saumon a l'oseille ($16.95), poached Norwegian salmon with sorrel; feuilletee de legumes au four ($16.95), portabello mushroom and vegetables in puff pastry with brie and demi canard roti croustillant aux fruits de saison ($17.95). The filet de boeuf au poivre vert de Madagascar ($21.95), a skillet-prepared filet mignon, is also excellent, as is the coq au vin de chanturge ($16.95), a wonderful stew of braised, burgundy-marinated chicken, applewood bacon and onions. The dessert menu is where Le Petit Bistro shines the brightest. Try the traditional creme brulee with a crusty sugar top, the cheesecake with a nutty crust and a touch of raspberry sauce, the tiramisu with raspberry liqueur, or the crepe of the day. 964-3321. Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Tues.-Sun. Credit cards are are accepted. $$ (Reviewed Apr. 14, 2000)

Little India Restaurant, 2606 Broadway, Redwood City, (650) 361-8737 @movietext:Here, diners don't have to waste time perusing a menu. There isn't one--just a good, mixed-bag buffet that consists of whatever owner and chef Manoj Chopra feels like making that day. Staples you'll always find include basmati rice pillau, salad with cucumber and tomato, raita (spiced yogurt dressing), vegetable pakora (vegetable fritters), bapadum (pepper cracker) and an array of chutneys. All meals come with a generous basket of nan. Neither do people have to spend time calculating cost and tax. Only three numbers matter: $5.95, $5.99 and $7.95. At lunchtime, $5.99 buys everything. At dinnertime, $5.95 buys everything vegetarian while $7.95 buys everything. Hours: Lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; closed Sun. $ (Reviewed March 10, 1995)

Little Shanghai, 600 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View, (650) 940-1528 @movietext: Inside this little restaurant tucked away on the El Camino Real drag, you'll find solid Chinese fare from Shanghai, reflecting the owner's roots. The casual, small, nondescript dining room is void of decor save red lettering that hangs on a mirrored wall that spells "welcome" in Chinese and English. Service on the other hand is anything but nondescript. The waitstaff is very knowledgeable and makes super recommendations. Try fiery-hot cold Szechuan noodles and lettuce cups filled with minced shrimp for appetizers; move onto sweet and nutty sesame shrimp, mu shu anything or braised vegetables in bean curd skin for entrees. Have several people around to split the roast duck with chestnuts, a house specialty. For dessert, sticky rice-red bean paste filled rolls wrapped in bamboo leaves makes for sweet, exotic endings. Daily lunch specials include soup, sadad, rice and main dish. Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; closed Tuesdays. Lunch specials served 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. $ (Reviewed March 9, 2001)

The Little Store, 3340 Woodside Road, Woodside, (650) 851-8110 @movietext:Woodside's Little Store certainly looks like it's been around for a while. Hard by Woodside Road, just past the main intersection of town, the newcomer has a settled-in facade and a cozy, worn-around-the-edges appeal that rustles up images of watering holes in the more desolate stretches of the heartland. The place has been around for quite a while. Built in 1902, the place is a historic landmark, with a long stint as a general store and restaurant. These days, real saddles on posts line up in front of the counter, and the menu's emphasis is on simple, all-American favorites, with a bit of Tex-Mex thrown in for good measure. It's a place for mashed potatoes, meat loaf, milkshakes and french fries. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday. $$ (Reviewed May 7, 1999)

Long Life Noodle Company and Jook Joint, 393 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, (650) 324-1110 @movietext:The latest clone from a local chain of pan-Asian noodle shops, Long Life is an ambitious venture that isn't quite up to par. The atmosphere appeals more to the twenty-something crowd. But even with clever names for soup and noodle dishes - "Cultural Harmony," and "Celestial Congee," Long Life serves up bland imitations of classic Asian dishes. It's more like a McNoodles for the masses. A few bowls save this place from being a total write-off, including a broth of sirloin and rice noodles, redolent of cinnamon, and a heaping bowl of miso soup with vegetables that's sure to cure whatever ails you. But unless the level of service is kicked up several notches, the novelty of a noodle shop at the mall could wear off fast. Hours: Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. $ (Reviewed Aug. 25, 2000)

Lucy's Tea House, 180 Castro St., Mountain View, (650) 969-6365 @movietext: There's an alley off Castro leading to this charming and quirky teahouse. Lucy's advertises the "best tea & sandwiches in town," and judging by the happy patrons who fill this Taiwanese-style tearoom, most customers seem to agree. They're happily drinking one of Lucy's intoxicating, magical brews - Jealous Lover, a milky tea with tapioca pearls or a heavenly blend called Molly Honey, with jasmine tea and honey sweetly perfuming the air and palate. You can order from the list of sandwiches or hot rice combinations with various meats and salad. Interesting but unusual Taiwanese tea snacks include spicy tofu and peanut butter toast. If you're feeling really indulgent, don't miss one of Lucy's creamy tea milkshakes, flavored with mango, green, or a wonderfully floral jasmine tea. The one server greets you warmly and makes you feel at home. Don't blame a long wait for your tea on her - these teas require time to brew - this is not instant tea. Bring cash when you visit checks and credit cards are not accepted. Hours: Mon.- Thu. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m; closed Sundays and holidays. $ (Reviewed Feb. 23, 2001)

Luxie-Q BBQ Restaurant, 888 Willow Road, Menlo Park, (650) 566-9850 @movietext:Renea Thomas is paying homage to two of the great schools of barbecue: Texas and soul food. After working as a stockbroker for 20 years, she got the barbecue bug and opened Luxie-Q. The restaurant itself is not much to look at. A clean little box with four tables, fresh cafe curtains and a couple of prints on the wall, the restaurant seems to do most of its business in takeout. The baby-back ribs, the barbecue beef sandwich and the hot link provide a sampling of the house's signature barbecue sauce--while not tomatoey and sticky like a Texas-style sauce, it has the tang and sweetness of one from the Lone Star state. As in a soul food sauce, there's a little heat on the back end, and the meat itself draws flavor from a marinade and goes a little light on the smoke. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday; noon-5 p.m. Sunday. $ (Reviewed Jan. 15, 1999)

Mac's American Grill, 325 Main St., Los Altos, (650) 941-0234 @movietext:After more than 50 years of operation, Mac's American Grill (formerly Mac's Tea Room) has certainly developed its own niche. This old-style, old boy dining room takes patrons back to the days of meat and potatoes. Standard fare at the well-loved steakhouse includes great slabs of perfectly cooked prime rib, porterhouse steaks and steak sandwiches, along with generous hamburgers. House pastas are mundane and sometimes overcooked, but the cheesecake is great. Lunch specials will remind you of mom's cooking with meatloaf and beef burgundy to rival home. Sit in comfortable booths or enjoy one of the oldest and best bars in the area. Open lunch: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner: Mon.-Sat. 5:30-9:30 p.m., Sun. 5-8:30 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Jan. 17, 1997)

MacArthur Park, 27 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 321-9990 @movietext:This classic American restaurant features a core menu that hasn't changed for years--and there's no reason to do it now. Baby back ribs remain a staple, served with a pile of cole slaw and crisp fries. The restaurant also features tasty regional fare, an extensive wine list, good desserts, and attractive outdoor seating. MacArthur Park is located in a landmark structure designed by architect Julia Morgan. Open Mon.-Fri. 5:30 -10:30 p.m.; Sat. and Sun., 5-10 p.m.; Sun brunch, 10 a.m.-2p.m.; Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Oct. 18, 1996)

Mackie's Supper Club, 541 Ramona St., Palo Alto, (650) 326-1446 @movietext: If there are two things Mackie's is about, it's mood and food. The mood envelops you from the moment you walk in. Cavelike and cool, Mackie's on a spring night has the feel of a time-warped speakeasy--a chatter of voices, the soft glow of oil lamps, fresh-cut flowers at each table and a smattering of greenery that somehow manages to grow in the dark. Mackie's shamelessly serves up a good steak. If you're looking for roasted sirloin, filet mignon, New York strip, rib-eye or prime rib, Mackie's has it. They'll even bring a steak sandwich, steak and eggs or steak salad to your table at dinnertime. Mackie's uses beef of high enough quality to give the diehard meat-and-potatoes type a hankering to return and the occasional red-meat eater a reason to indulge--best when enjoyed with a suave martini. Hours: Sunday-Wednesday 5:30-10 p.m., Thursday-Saturday seating until 11 p.m. and limited menu until midnight. $$$ (Reviewed May 14, 1999)

Maddalena's, 540 Emerson St., Palo Alto, (650) 326-6082 @movietext: Fred Maddalena has been the empressario of his namesake restaurant for the past 25 years where he offers fine continental Italian cuisine in an elegant atmosphere. Head to Maddalena's for quiet evenings, well-executed Northern Italian fare and pampering service in a formal setting. Diners here receive personal attention from the waitstaff who dish up old world favorites such as carpaccio, gnocchi alfredo, caesar salad, homemade pastas and veal scallopini. Seconds please of gnocchi in a gorgonzola tomato sauce and French onion soup. Save room for cherries jubilee or bananas Foster, just to see the showy tableside prep. Maddalena's also offers an extensive wine list and full bar. When you've finished dinner, head over to Maddalena's sister restaurant, Cafe Fino (next door) for an evening of live jazz entertainment. Hours: Lunch Tue.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Thu.

Maltby's, corner of State and Fourth streets, 101 Plaza North, Los Altos, (650) 917-8777 @movietext:James Maltby got his start in restaurant management in London at the first Hard Rock Cafe, back before the place was a franchise and its T-shirts had spread around the globe. Last year he opened his own restaurant in the middle of the ever-swelling dining scene of downtown Los Altos. It's an attractive, family-oriented restaurant emphasizing what Maltby describes simply as "American food." But the restaurant also has the feel of a British pub, with dark wooden furniture, a bar area that is the focal point of the restaurant and a friendly and informal staff. Maltby's also offers the best beer selection in the city: Spaten Pilsner, Widmer Hefeweizen, Portland Brewing Company's Honey Beer, Double Diamond, Newcastle Brown, Fuller's London Porter and, of course, Guinness are all on tap. The menu leans to burgers and steaks. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-9 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m. Fri-Sat. $$ (Reviewed June 25, 1999)

The Mandarin Gourmet, 420 Ramona St., Palo Alto, (650) 328-8898 @movietext:Distinctive Chinese cuisine is the focus of this sophisticated dining room. While dishes are on the expensive side, the quality and presentation justify the price. Prawns with fresh asparagus, crispy eggplant and a fresh chicken salad are all stand out choices. Lunch specials include egg roll, hot and sour soup and crunchy fried won ton skins along with rice and an entree--a good deal for $6-8. The atmosphere is elegant, with business crowd at lunch, a little more dressy in the evening. Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner 5-10 p.m. seven days a week. $$ (Reviewed Oct. 11, 1996)

Mango Cafe, 435 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 325-3229 @movietext:Palo Alto's popular Mango Cafe represents an oasis for those looking to loosen the tie, roll up the pant cuffs and dine on authentic island dishes. This Caribbean restaurant is laid-back almost to a fault. Lose the Silicon Valley mood when you enter or you'll surely get a bit ticked by the loose attitude, which can translate into slow service. But it's the islands, mon, and the surf won't really get rolling for hours. There's no reason to rush here. So chill and grab a smoothie (for a taste of coconut, go with the Treasure Beach, which also has pineapple and banana) and an order of curried or jerked joints--that's chicken drummettes redolent of zingy Caribbean curry or rubbed with chiles, thyme and onion. Hours: Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and Mon.-Sat. 6-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed Oct. 2, 1998)

Max's Opera Cafe, 711 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, (650) 323-6364 @movietext:This wildly popular cafe and bar serves up enormous portions at modest prices. A three-inch high chicken liver on rye and homemade chicken soup top the list of comfort food straight from a New York deli. Huge salads laden with slivers of tender chicken breast, bacon, mushrooms and every vegetable imaginable crowd one side of the lengthy menu. Entrees include pasta, roasted chicken and burgers of every description. Desserts are calorie-heavy but worth it--a fudge brownie served warm with vanilla ice cream and hot fudge sauce is among the best. Opera-singing waiters and waitresses and a boisterous crowd can make for noisy evenings. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. to Thurs., until 11 p.m. Fri. and Sat. nights. $$ (Reviewed Jan. 1, 1992)

Mediterranean Wraps, 425 California Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 321-8189 @movietext:Good, quick Mediterranean food at low prices. This whole-in-the-wallI offers a classic mixture of simple Jordanian and Lebanese fare mixed with a bit of Greek. There is a Falafel ($3.95) with Mediterranean salad, Deluxe Falafel ($4.45) with fresh cooked eggplant and potato, and the classic Shawerma ($4.99), with its thin marinated sliced lamb and beef, served with broiled tomatoes, parsley, onion, tahini, hummus and lavash (a savory flat Middle-Eastern bread). One look at the menu and you quickly discover that it is almost impossible not to eat healthy at Mediterranean Wraps. The cooks are not big on heavy meals and greasy foods. Everything is prepared seasonal and fresh and most of it comes with a salad. Hours: Open daily 10 a.m.-8 p.m. $ (Review Oct. 10, 1997)

Mei Long, 867 E. El Camino Real, Mountain View, (650) 961-4030 @movietext:Mei Long in Mountain View offers extraordinarily fresh and beautifully prepared fine Chinese cuisine in an atmosphere of understated elegance and formal service. Mei Long eschews the family-style, pile-it-on-a-platter method of most Chinese restaurants, favoring instead a sophisticated individual presentation. Dishes can be ordered a la carte, but a better way is to choose one of the two prix-fixe menus (the four-course version is $20 per person, and the seafood-heavy five-course menu is $28 per person). Also recommended are the spring rolls and Lover's wonton double delight (both $4.50), and chicken breast julienne with vinegar and ginger ($10.95). Hours: 11:30-2 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 5:30-9:30 p.m. daily. $$ (Reviewed Mar. 14, 1997)

Menlo Java & Juice Bar, 1083 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 328-2407 @movietext:Menlo Java & Juice shares a tiny space with a Mexican restaurant. There's not much room for relaxed dining, but the eatery has a small menu full of bargains. The entrees are all under $4.25. There's a thick vegetarian torta flavored with goat cheese, and full of eggplant, spinach, egg, and red peppers. Pasta is another specialty of the house. Sandwiches are all under $3. The juice drinks and smoothies are divine. Big, gooey homemade desserts make the list of good, fresh food. Since Menlo Java and Juice is open until 11 every night except Sunday, it's a great place to go after the movies for ice-cream-topped treats. Hours: 8 a.m.- 11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $ (Reviewed March 3, 1995)

Mikado, 161 Main St., Los Altos, (650) 917-8388 @movietext:Mikado is a serene and comfortable Japanese restaurant with a row of roomy booths, two tatami rooms and stalks of bamboo climbing up walls painted a deep watermelon red. Some waitresses wear kimonos. In addition to a full sushi bar, the causually elegant Mikado also serves a tantalizing array of Japanese cusine, from the tried-and-true teriyaki dishes to some more exotic delights: ika natto (squid with fermented soybeans) ($6.30), shishamo (broiled Japanese lake smelt) ($3.80) and maguro mugitoro yamakake (tuna with grated mountain potato) ($6.50). Although there are plenty of items on the menu to sway your attention away from the large and very fresh sushi selection, sushi is the specialty here. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Closed Monday. $ (Reviewed Jan. 26, 1996)

Mike's Cafe Etc., 2680 Middlefield Road, Palo Alto, (650) 473-MIKE. @movietext:With a menu that includes a plethora of dishes such as chicken piccata, veal scaloppine, lasagna, bruschetta, rigatoni and linguini with tiger prawns, you would usually be safe in assuming that the restaurant is Italian. Usually. The menu is from Mike's Cafe Etc., the popular eatery that dominates the Midtown Palo Alto culinary scene. Owner Mike Wallau has been in the restaurant business for a quarter century and has decided simply to serve his favorite dishes. Many of the dishes are Italian. Some aren't. The common factor is that Mikey likes them (sorry, couldn't resist). If the weather permits, grab a table outside. Otherwise, try to get a table near the big windows of this comfortable family-style joint. Hours: Monday-Friday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. $$ (Reviewed July 3, 1998)

Minokichi Japanese Buffet, 150 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 324-9536 @movietext:In addition to row upon row of ebi, tekka, kappa, uni, saba and so forth, Minokichi offers a few other items that just might divert your attention from the help-yourself, all-you-can-eat sushi bar: steamed crab legs, lobster (weekend dinners only), four kinds of soup, salad, oysters on the half shell, mussels, chicken teriyaki, baked fish, stir-fry, shrimp cocktail, prime rib (dinner only). Hours: daily 11 a.m-2:30 p.m.; Sun.-Thu. 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat 5:30-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed March 4, 1994)

La Morenita, 800 Emerson St., Palo Alto, (650) 329-1727 @movietext:With a menu based on the regional cooking of Michoacan, La Morenita ("the little brown girl") brings a new culinary element to a city that has become top-heavy with Italian and bottom-heavy with burrito joints. Here you find good, plain food, simply served. Anything with green sauce is worth ordering. The carne asada is a good choice. The thin strip of steak filet is grilled, then smothered with green sauce. Most dinners come with rice, beans, tortillas, slices of lime and guacamole. They also have hamburgers, BLT's, sandwiches and fries. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat. 10 a.m.-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed July 29, 1994)

Miyake, 140 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 323-9449 @movietext:Now located two blocks down the street from its tiny original location, the new Miyake is tony and huge. Brass light fixtures throw a soft light around the room, white walls add a touch of class. But leave it to Miyake to impart a carnival atmosphere anyway: rainbow-colored rotating lights, wavy glass with aqua lighting under the sushi bar, and the same yelling chefs, yelling waiters, blaring music, loud uniforms, circulating sushi boats and hoards of college students. Miyake has a dizzying array of options, including traditional cooked Japanese dishes. You'll probably never be able to try all the different rolls the restaurant makes. Ultra-fussy sushi buffs might sniff at certain aspects of Miyake. The chicken teriyaki and unagi can get cool after a few trips around the boats and purists will probably never accept imitation crab. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. $$ (Reviewed March 29, 1996)

Naomi Sushi Pasta Grill, 1328 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 321-6902 @movietext: Despite its East/West aspirations, there is plenty that's purely Japanese about Naomi Sushi. The short menu has classic bento boxes, chicken, vegetarian, grilled salmon and chef's specials ($10.95-$13.50), teriyakis like beef sirloin ($12.95), chicken ($10.50), or unaju (cooked eel over rice $13.50), and it offers a full measure of delicate appetizers and salads. But it doesn't stop there. Under a section called "pasta" you will find linguine mixed with seafood and mushrooms ($10.50) and a pasta of the day such as linguine with shrimp, mushrooms, and clams ($6.95 at lunch) along with the traditional steaming bowls of udon ($6.95-$8.50). Overall, the Japanese/Italian combo works well with most dishes. Of particular note are the salads, which have a wonderful homemade dressing, and the grilled chicken udon soup. Hours: Lunch, Tuesday-Friday 11:30-2:30; Dinner, Tuesday-Sunday 5:30-10:00; (Monday closed). $$$ (Reviewed Dec. 26, 1997)

The New Bamboo, 3130 Alpine Road, Suite 300 Portola Valley, (650) 851-1718 @movietext: At New Bamboo, reservations aren't necessary. You wait in line, order and food is brought to you.It may not be gourmet, but The New Bamboo is great value for what it is - decent, healthy Asian-inspired dishes served fast enough to make your head spin. The comfortable indoor seating is a far cry from the plastic chairs you might expect at such an establishment, and the decor encourages lingering. Inspiration for dishes comes from Chef Yung Le's travels through Asia. The only soup featured on the menu feeds at least four. Dinner plate servings are massive, lunch plates are smaller and salads are also available. Enticing dishes include, the Egg Roll Samosa special ($4.50), Pad Thai ($8.50), full of shrimp (tailless shrimp was a much appreciated gesture), eggs, and peanuts (minus bean sprouts), and Lemon Chicken ($8.50). The New Bamboo's popularity is easy to understand - heaps of fresh food served quickly and at a fair price. Hours: Monday through Sunday 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-9 p.m. $ (Reviewed June 30, 2000)

New India Palace, 448 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 327-3455 @movietext:The latest Indian restaurant in Palo Alto, New India Palace isn't out to upset the apple cart, but it offers well-priced classics in pleasant surroundings served by cordial waiters. It also shines with appetizers. The samosas ($3.50 veggie, $4 lamb) will definitely make some of the area's stalwarts sit up and take notice. The potato ones are especially good, with flaky tricorner pastries enfolding a moist, flavorful filling of soft potato and green pea. It's best with the accompanying spicy cilantro chutney. The lamb version is heightened in flavor by the sweet tamarind sauce on the table. Onion pakoras ($4) whet the appetite, coating sweet onion strings with a lentil flour batter. The rest of the menu is divided into biriani rice dishes, tandoori items, spicy vindaloos, and meat and seafood curries. There are also two thalis (combination platters in which each dish comes in a small stainless-steel bowl), one vegetarian ($13.95) and one meat-oriented ($16.95). Both come with crispy pappadam (those peppery lentil crackers), a bowl of cooling yogurt, a perfunctory iceberg lettuce salad, fragrant white rice and some of the best rice pudding around. Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 Mon.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-11 Fri.; noon-3 p.m. and 5-11 Sat.; noon-3 p.m. and 5-10 Sun. $$ (Reviewed March 3, 2000)

Niebaum-Coppola Palo Alto, 473 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 752-0350. @movietext: Director Francis Ford Coppola's imprimatur is all over his latest cafe/wine bar/retail establishment (the other is in San Francisco). It's almost like eating in a Williams-Sonoma store, but one that you'd find on a Parisian street. The homestyle Italian fare is mostly bland, especially anything made with marinara sauce. Pizzas are certified authentic Neapolitan-style pies, but they tend to be overly doughy and chewy. Or the toppings overwhelm. Pastas are hit or miss, topped with watery, tasteless sauces. Safe bets are the sea bass cooked in the wood-fired oven, the oven-baked rotini and the homemade mozzarella and tomato salad. The stunning zinc wine bar serves "flights" or tastes of Niebaum-Coppola winery wines, but you can taste other wines, or get them by the glass or bottle. This joint is jumping, as locals flock to it to check out the latest production from Coppola. Hours: 10 a.m. - 11 p.m. daily. $$ (Reviewed Dec. 1, 2000)

Noah's Bagels, 278 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 473-0751 and 1049-G El Monte Ave., Mountain View, (650) 969-6336 @movietext:Noah Alper knows there's a lot of showbiz in the food biz. That's why he sells a hefty dose of nostalgia along with his wonderful steamed bagels. A Noah's shop is a slick combination of schmaltz and kitsch dear to the heart of any former New Yorker. When it comes to flavors, Noah's is pretty strait-laced. Everything is kosher. Noah's mandelbrot is crunchy on top and dense as doughy cake in the middle. The challah is feathery light, and the hand-shaped bialys, made of unsteamed bagel dough, are also airy. Hours: Mon.-Thu. 7 a.m.- 7 p.m.; Fri. 7 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sat. 7:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sun. 7:30 a.m.-5 p.m. $ (Reviewed Oct. 15, 1993)

Nola, 535 Ramona St., Palo Alto, (650) 328-2722 @movietext:Nola is made up of a warren of little rooms full of pleasant visual surprises. The eye-popping mustard, purple and turquoise walls are decorated with masks and artifacts that just smack of Voodoo Country, including several terrific folk paintings that the owners snapped up on a shopping trek to New Orleans. The heart of the restaurant is the rustic, open-to-the-sky patio, which is framed by second-story balconies. Nola (it stands for New Orleans, LA) dishes out an interesting mix of Cajun, Creole, Caribbean and Southwestern fare. Instead of presenting the spicy standards that are traditionally associated with New Orleans menus, such as etouffee, jambalaya and gumbo, Nola serves an eclectic and creative cross-section of dishes that certainly qualify as "fusion" cuisine. Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 5:30-11 p.m. and Sunday 5:30-9 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Aug. 30, 1996)

Nouveau Trattoria, 541 Bryant St., Palo Alto, (650) 327-0132 @movietext:What happens when a restaurant serves both olive oil and butter with its bread? Schizophrenia, pandemonium--or else it's just Annie Nunan's little Nouveau Trattoria, which has quietly been doing its Franco-Italian thing on Bryant Street in Palo Alto for years. Basque by heritage, Nunan has predilections that are tough to discern in a moderately priced menu fairly divided between French and Italian staples. But if you pay attention, the kitchen leans a little to the Gallic, which is just fine amid the rising tide of Italian trattorias downtown. Nouveau Trattoria has long offered comforting family-style four-course Basque dinners, a steal at $15.50. The restaurant itself has the comfortable, slightly worn appeal of neighborhood bistros in many parts of Western Europe. Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. $$$ (Reviewed July 9, 1999)

Oregano's Wood-Fired Pizza, 4546 El Camino Real, Los Altos, (650) 941-3600 @movietext:Sure, the pizzas are abundant, but don't let a full menu page of them distract you. Underneath all that pizza talk, you will find some gems of pasta dishes and at least a couple of mouth-watering salads. If you do come to Oregano's for pizza, you probably won't be disappointed - although you should know only personal sized pies are served here. No matter what concoction you dream up, chances are there will be some variation of it on the menu. Say, cheeseburger pizza, for instance. Decor at Oregano's is pleasant with oak tables and chairs and a warm, polished granite bar. It's part family restaurant, part pub. The bar serves 20 different kinds of beer, with seven of them on tap, most from microbreweries. Oregano's has got the formula down as well as any chain. It looks like a chain, it feels like a chain, but it's one of a kind. The service is friendly and consistent. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 4-9 p.m. $ (Reviewed Sept. 5, 1997)

Original Pancake House, 420 South San Antonio Rd., Los Altos, (650) 559-9197, www.originalpancakehouse.com. @movietext:Get one of the best breakfasts around all day here. Pancakes, of course, are the specialty, with many varieties including blueberry, banana, pineapple, pecan and potato. Just try one of the house classics - the apple pancake, more like a huge apple tart, puffed to a big dome with a layer of apples, brown sugar and cinnamon covering a fluffy pancake; the Dutch Baby, a crater-like pancake that's topped with powdered sugar and a squeeze of lemon. The fresh strawberry waffles are particularly good and sweet. Omelettes are a unique creation here too. Beating fluffs eggs up, and finishing the skillet-sized omelette in the oven makes it puff up like a soufflÈ. You'll find all the breakfast sides - crunchy bacon, eggs any way, fresh-squeezed juices and oatmeal. Lunch is served weekdays, and on the menu you'll find competent hot pastrami on rye or turkey club sandwiches with side salads. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 6:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Sat.-Sun. 7 a.m.-3 p.m. $ (Reviewed January 5, 2001)

Osteria, 247 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 328-5700 @movietext:There always seems to be a crowd of people waiting to get into Osteria, and reservations at dinner are a must. The bustling dining room captures the feel of a small neighborhood trattoria in Florence. Don't come to Osteria for Tuscan cooking--even though that's what their sign says. Rather than the simple and elegant fare associated with the Tuscan kitchen, the menu features the fare found in thousands of American "Italian" restaurants: veal scaloppine, carpaccio, prosciutto with melon and fettuccine Alfredo. Generally, everything is well-prepared, tasty, generous in portion and reasonably priced. A short wine list. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun. $$$ (Reviewed May 14, 1993)

Palermo Rotisserie, 452 University Ave., Palo Alto, 650-321-9908 @movietext:You could go someplace fancier, or fussier, or more chichi, but most of the time you wouldn't want to. There is nothing trendy about Palermo: no pumpkin-ricotta cannoli, no linguini with Thai chicken, no morel-stuffed ravioli. One deep breath in says it all: garlic, basil, red wine, parmesan, yeast, tomatoes, olive oil. The tiny restaurant, with 24 tables set inches apart, has a casual, cluttered feeling. There are brightly-colored posters Italy on the walls and cheerful, hand-painted crockery overhead. At night, the wood-fire oven filled with roasting chickens blazes at the back of the restaurant, casting a warm glow over the room. There's a great all-you-can-eat lunch buffet for $8.95. Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner 5-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Feb. 23, 1996)

Palo Alto Joe's, 3750 Fabian Way, Palo Alto, (650) 493-3101 @movietext:The name conjures up images of big bowls of minestrone and piles of spaghetti crowned with meatballs. While such favorites still have a place on this restaurant's menu, chef Rick Vargas is striving to grow beyond the other "basic North Beach Italian" dishes that have been the tradition at Joe's: oven-roasted king salmon with sun-dried tomato pesto, Sicilian olives and basil ($13.95), baked polenta lasagne ($4.95) and more. The restaurant even has its own garden behind the restaurant, producing everything from tomatoes to haricots verts. Hours: Mon. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Tues-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat. 5-10 p.m.; Sun. 5-9 p.m. $$ (Sept. 2, 1994)

Palo Alto Sol, 408 California Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 328-8840 @movietext:This funky, yet charming restaurant features a hand-written, two-sided monster of a menu, and is owned by Hector and Helena Sol, who branched off from another family enterprise, La Fiesta on Villa Street in Mountain View. With brightly painted wooden fish hanging from the ceiling and works by local artists decorating the walls, Palo Alto Sol, which specializes in cuisine from around the city of Pueblo in south-central Mexico, comes off as part goofy, part funky, part whimsical. There's a rough edge to the decor--mismatched chairs, a couple of wobbly tables--but the overall effect somehow works. The hard-to-find entrees include Camarones Diabla ($8.95), jumbo shrimp sauteed in a butter-garlic-wine sauce, and seasoned with chopped tomatoes and dried chilies. Try the mole! Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner 5-9 p.m.; closed Sundays. $ (Reviewed Jan. 7, 1994)

Pasta ?, 326 University Avenue, Palo Alto, (650) 328-4585 @movietext:This bustling contemporary trattoria features a budget-conscious menu that caters to contemporary health concerns (selected pastas are served with no cheese, light oil, and little salt; red meat gets barely a mention) but it doesn't try to be adventurous. You'll find several old favorites, including Caesar and Caprese salads, Fettuccine Alfredo, and Bolognese sauce. Appropriately, for a place that bills itself as a casual "Italian Eatery," the cross-regional repertoire focuses on simple dishes showcasing fresh ingredients sensibly combined. Pasta, of course, is Pasta ?'s mainstay, and the kitchen has got its preparation and presentation down to an exact science. Impeccable timing ensures that the noodles--made from scratch at the San Francisco parent restaurant--reach the tables neither more nor less than al dente. And careful saucing does them justice; you won't be left with a pool of surplus liquid (nor stains on your shirt). Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed Dec. 12, 1997)

Peking Duck, 2310 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 856-3338 @movietext:Inside this tiny and quiet Chinese restaurant, diners will find linen-set tables and attentive service along with great duck dishes, the house specialty. Grease-free egg rolls, crispy-skinned Peking duck and spicy eggplant all shine. An 11-page menu offers something for almost everyone, including soups and noodle dishes htat can all be served vegetarian. Peking Duck is worth a visit. Hours: daily 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. $$ (Reviewed May 20, 1992)

Perry's 546 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 326-0111 @movietext:Yet another San Francisco heavy-hitter opens an outpost on the Peninsula. Perry's on Union Street in the city newest sibling is one of Palo Alto's newest restaurants. Here, the cozy decor is duplicated, with a hodgepodge of advertising signs and sports photographs. The bistro-inspired menu offers a variety of starters, salads and pizzas, plus a variety of entrees and daily specials. Kitchen output is mixed; there are some winners and losers. While an appetizer of pepper seared ahi tuna is tasty, crab cakes are flavorless and overcooked. Tender filet mignon is paired with a creamy roquefort butter and scalloped potatoes; a perfectly roasted veal chop is adorned with a shallot demi-glaze. But vegetable sides are served al dente - barely cooked. Perry's tempts full diners with an array of mouthwatering desserts, including double chocolate fudge cake with vanilla ice cream and a custardy creme brulee. Brunch is now offered on the weekends. Hours: Mon.-Wed. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Thurs.-Sat. 11:30 a.m. - midnight; Sun. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; brunch Sat.-Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Jul. 28, 2000)

Pho USA, 833 Hamilton Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 323-7759 @movietext: This popular Menlo Park noodle house, just down the street from the Sun Microsystems main campus packs 'em in during lunch, when all the techies head here for a big, steaming bowl of Vietnamese beef noodle soup. Pho USA is almost factory-like, pumping you in, feeding you and getting you out quickly. Even during the mad lunch hour rush, servers remain friendly and manage the place with amazing efficieny. During off-peak hours the place settles down, and you can enjoy lingering over your pho. Of course you come here for the pho - and you'll get a very tasty version of it. Try pho with lean brisket, or steak and flank, and be sure to throw in all the garnishes. Vermicelli dishes, thin rice noodles steamed with fish sauce and shrimp and vegetables makes a great light meal. Start everything off with summer rolls - shrimp, pork and veggies wrapped in rice paper. Hours: Daily 10 a.m.-8:30 p.m. $ (Reviewed March 30, 2001)

Piatti, 2 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, (650) 324-9733 @movietext:This ristorante is the seventh in the highly successful chain that began in Yountville six years ago. Piatti has succumbed to the tired trend of fauxed Italian plaster walls. And they've made theirs worse by daubing them with naive murals of pale fruits and vegetables. So what's the draw at Piatti? The food. There are many standard dishes throughout the chain, but local chefs get to play with the daily specials. Piatti has five or six tasty meatless dishes. For meat and potato fans, there's chicken and potatoes with gravy (yes, gravy). Hours: Sun.-Thu. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Dec. 3, 1993)

Pizz'a Chicago, 4115 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 424-940 @movietext:Stepping into this pizzeria is like entering a wacky fantasy of Chicago. There are street signs from famous corners of the city, a mural of the "El," and a rooftop perch complete with a line of laundry that features Chicago Bulls T-shirts. Red-and-white checked vinyl tablecloths and paper napkins make this a kid-friendly restaurant. Part of the fun here is reading the menu. Sassy jibes at Chicago's rich and famous are just as jazzy as the pizzas they describe. The Jane Byrne, for instance, is a tart and tangy combination of spicy tomato sauce topped with bits of dried apricot, bacon, and sauteed red onion rings. Why name this daring combination for the first female mayor of the city? "She was very much into pork-barrel politics," according to the menu. Great salads and friendly service. Hours: Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri and Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $ (Reviewed July 14., 1995)

Pluto's, 482 University Avenue, Palo Alto, (650) 853-1556 @movietext:Pluto's provides fast, wholesome food cafeteria style. The restaurant's theme is one of outer space. It's slogan, for example, is "Fresh Food For a Hungry Universe" and the restrooms are labeled Cosmonauts and Cosmonettes. The servings are generous. Vegetables cost between $1 and $1.50, and the entres run between $3 and $4. Most of the menu items have theme names. There's "Vegetable Galaxy," "Crater of Orbital Soup," "Saturn's Garlic Potato Rings," and the word "heavenly" is frequently used as a modifier. If you don't mind gimmicks and hanker for simple American cooking with a vaguely healthy cachet (Pluto's owners claim that 80 percent of its dishes are low-fat), this neighborly spot should appeal. Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. $ (Reviewed May 2, 1997)

PolanDeli, 2399 Broadway, Redwood City, (650) 568-1809 @movietext:This is a small, family-owned and operated place with a counter and a few tables. PolanDeli could easily be mistaken for a sandwich shop (there is a listing of terrific sandwiches), if it were not for the heavenly smells that identify serious cooking. Owners Richard and Margaret Marona have a masterful touch with the goulash ($4.50), the dish largely responsible for the wonderful aroma that fills the place. Look for smoked salmon sandwiches, stuffed cabbage, tripe soup and blood sausage, among more accessible Eastern European fare. Hours: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat. $ (Reviewed April 21, 1995)

Portola Park Restaurant, 884 Portola Road, Portola Valley, (650) 529-9007 @movietext:You can ask for an outdoor table at Portola Park Restaurant and contemplate one of nature's giant wonders while sipping a fine wine, and waiting for your crab quesadilla to arrive. This cafe in the redwoods is a great place to go when you're in the mood for something simple, elegant and without the fuss. The clean lines of a stainless steel kitchen rise toward the open beam ceilings and contrast with the warm woody feel of the place. Dress is casual. The menu defies easy classification. With items like pizza Margheritta, penne rigate, angel hair pasta with wild mushrooms, fresh tomato, and pine nuts, Italian would seem to be the right label. Dishes like crab and shrimp Louise and grilled lemon rosemary salmon darns say California cuisine. But then there are items like Japanese soba noodles with rock shrimp and Dungeness crab quesadillas with salsa. Chef Brad Kellering, who was trained in classical French cooking but emphasizes the international, calls it New American Cuisine. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tue.-Fri.; brunch 10:30-2:30 Sun.; dinner 5-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., 5-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. $$ (Reviewed Aug. 2, 1996)

Pot au Feu, 1149 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 322-4343 @movietext:California cuisine has not had a great impact on Le Pot au Feu. Nor has East-West fusion or heart-healthy cooking. And that is the Menlo Park restaurant's greatest appeal. The 25-year-old Le Pot au Feu is a bastion of traditional French brasserie cooking in cozy, old-fashioned surroundings. The restaurant offers an appealing and consistent reprieve from the sleek new eateries and fussy dishes that pervade the Peninsula these days: Red meat, heavy sauces and rich desserts have been its mainstay for decades. Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Sunday 5:30-9 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Jan. 1, 1999)

Q Cafe Billiards, 529 Alma St., Palo Alto, (650) 322-3311 @movietext:One might think of a "pool hall" as a place with cigarette smoke, televised sports, dirty mirrors and mediocre beer. It is doubtful, however, that such a venue would wash in Palo Alto. Enter Q Cafe Billiards. The 6,000-square-foot restaurant is a serious contributor to Palo Alto's nightlife. The TV is tuned to sports, but don't expect smoke, the smell of stale beer, dirty mirrors or scruffy-looking men at Q Cafe. Most of the men (and women) are clean cut collegiate types. The mirrors are spotless, the beer is upscale and smoking is out. The huge room is equipped with 12 tournament-sized, Olhausen tables. The food is good enough for what it is--fuel for pool: fried calamari with spicy tomato and garlic-lime dip, burgers, french fries, salads, sandwiches, firecracker shrimp, gourmet pizzas. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. daily. $ (Reviewed June 30, 1995)

Rangoon, 565 Bryant St., Palo Alto, (650) 325-8146 @movietext:Most of us have never sampled Burmese food, a gentle combination of Chinese and Thai flavors well represented at this charmingly informal downtown restaurant. Rangoon serves up a delightful chicken salad, chock full of tender breast slivers coated in crunch peanuts, thin crispy noodles and a well-balanced sesame-soy dressing. Vegetable and bean curd dishes are delicately seasoned, not overcooked. Soups range from the mundane but well executed won ton to an unusual black pepper and shrimp in clear broth. Garlic chicken and moo shu dishes are other good choices. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Mon.-Thu. 5:-9:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed June 3, 1992)

The Red Pepper, 4125 El Camino Way, Palo Alto, (650) 493-70 @movietext:Not many Palo Alto restaurants can boast of serving customers for 30 years, but The Red Pepper has been dishing up traditional enchiladas and refried beans since 1965. The stresses of the work week lose their urgency amidst the aroma of corn tortillas and the pools of dim light. he loud kitchen, complete with clanging dishes and roaring blenders, can either annoy or add to the sense of being guests in a Mexican home. Despite the name of the restaurant, The Red Pepper's offerings, especially the guacamole and salsa, will seem mild for those who crave tongue-searing tastes. As for vegetarians, cheese enchiladas and bean burritos are pretty much the only options. The portions are large enough to provide leftovers for the next day, and the cheese, beans, meat and guacamole served with each meal will leave you feeling more than full. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5-9:30 daily $ (Reviewed Dec. 15, 1995)

Rene-Rose Philippine Cuisine, 87 Castro St., Mountain View, (650) 210-9393. @movietext: You won't find more authentic Philippine food than the daily dishes served up by the husband and wife duo, Rene and Rose Neponmuceno. Their meat-based stews - pork minudo, pork and chicken adobos - are flavorful and tender; the fish dishes, made from the national fish of the Philippines, milkfish, are perfectly pan-fried, seasoned simply by lemon, soy sauce and onion. A changing menu of soups is served along with the stews and may include a tart tamarind vegetable soup. Pan-fried noodle dishes with meat or shrimp and vegetables are cooked to order. Top of your meal with an unusual Filipino dessert such as avocado ice cream topping a coconut-ice-jackfruit-chickpea concoction - tasty and refreshing. Prices are amazingly affordable and service is personal and accomodating. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed Feb. 2, 2001)

Restaurant Soleil, Westin Palo Alto, 675 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 321-4422 @movietext: Warm ochres and sunny golds make this dining room a cheerful place to be, while its location on the second floor of the Westin means it is quiet and even romantic. Servers are attentive, knowledgeable, and extremely accommodating. Executive Chef Eric Truglas's creative combinations of Mediterranean foods and flavors result in some of the most outstanding dishes coming out of any local kitchen. Grilled shrimp with couscous, or sweet and tangy pear flatbread pizza make wonderful lunches; bronzed salmon or Colorado lamb wrapped in grape leaves are unusual and tasty twists on Mediterranean cuisine. Go for the tasting menu and let Chef Truglas show you what he can do with oyster soup, fish and foie gras or tuna tartare and lobster creme brulee. Divine desserts created by Pastry Chef Luz Roman Amaro - decadent Meyer lemon creme brulee, lavender, sambuca or chocolate pots du creme and raspberry filled chocolate symphony are all sinfully tempting. Hours: Breakfast Mon.-Fri. 6-11 a.m.; lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner nightly 5-10 p.m.; brunch Sat.-Sun. 6 a.m.-2 p.m $$$-$$$$ (Reviewed Feb. 16, 2001)

Ridgeside Cafe, Ladera Shopping Center, Alpine Road, Portola Valley, (650) 854-4166 @movietext:Under the new ownership of Hardie Dunn, Ridgeside Cafe will soon have a new menu, but for now it's comprised of the familiar Mexican-American-Italian favorites. What Dunn has done is introduce one of the area's most ambitious wine-by-the-glass programs on the Midpeninsula, with a clear passion for supporting the local wine industry. The menu for now still includes meatloaf and mashed potatoes, tortilla soup, and chicken enchiladas. There is some sophistication: the trout topped with prosciutto, pork loin with a thin fruit-dominated jus ($12.95 single cut, $16.95 double) The warm grilled lamb-patty pita sandwich ($8.95) comes with a minty yogurt sauce and a ramekin that pairs nutty baba ganoush with tangy hummus. Desserts are a great bargain, most $3.95, with the gelatos and sorbets a mere $1.95. Hours: 7 a.m.-10 a.m., 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Sat. and Sun. $$ (Reviewed May 19, 2000)

Robaii, 496 Hamilton Ave. at Cowper Street, Palo Alto, (650) 325-1994 @movietext:Named after a Persian word for a poetry technique, Robaii was opened by Soussan and Dar Nafar in May 1998. Small Persian pictures decorate the walls, and the large front windows reveal a pleasant view of downtown. Traditional Persian music plays amid the sounds of a small waterfall in the corner. The food has more of an Arabic influence from the southern, Abadah region of Iran. Dolmeh barg (stuffed with yellow split peas), the falafel combo (with falafel balls, baba ghanoush and hummus) and the lamb pita are among the best dishes. All options include pita bread made fresh daily at a Fremont bakery. Hours: Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Saturday noon-8:30 p.m. $ (Reviewed Dec. 18, 1998)

Rojoz Gourmet Wraps, 60 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, (650) 324-9727 @movietext:This is another restaurant dedicated to the ubiquitous "wrap." One look at the menu and you're likely to forget any preconceived notions you might have about rice and beans. Instead, an array of gourmet ingredients from pesto, Spanish olives and Roma tomatoes to teriyaki sauce, pineapple and sugar peas tumbles off the page. Rojoz Gourmet Wraps is very '90s. It's quick. It's inexpensive ($5-$6). There are a few salads on the menu, vegetarian wraps galore and even a little room for the humble burrito under a snappier name, of course. It's a fast-food-style place, though the food is made to order. Rojoz is part of a nine-restaurant chain. It's owned by the people who brought you Rockin' Tacos. Open weekdays 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fri. and Sat. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. $ (Reviewed Jan. 10, 1996)

St. Michael's Alley, 806 Emerson St., Palo Alto. (650) 326-2530. www.stmikes.com @movietext:Jenny Youll and partner Mike Sabina bought back St. Mike's in 1998, dolled up the interior, revamped the brunch, lunch and dinner menus and reopened. The walls are sponged a rich ocher, and dark wood wainscoting and trim add luster to the cozy, square room. Little white Christmas lights outline the windows, and votive candles flicker in cobalt-blue holders next to tiny vases of irises. It's romantic, no bones about it, whether it's brunch, lunch or the sophisticated new American dinner fare. Wines focus on Santa Cruz Mountains offerings, with a regular printed list and a short chalkboard list of wines by the glass. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tues.-Fri.; 5:30-10 p.m. Tues.-Sat.; 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Sat. and Sun. $$ (Reviewed April 4, 1998)

Satkar, 233 State St., Los Altos, (650) 947-8729 @movietext:Downtown Los Altos has needed a good Indian restaurant for years. Now it has one. Satkar opened its doors in 1998, adding to a local culinary mix. The restaurant is a family affair. Mukhtiar Singh does the cooking, and his wife, Kirandeep Kaur, waits tables. Singh was formerly a chef at Janta in Palo Alto. In addition to a full menu, Satkar offers an all-you-can-eat buffet ($6.99), which includes many of its signature dishes, such as chicken tikka, chicken masala, bengan baharta (baked eggplant in curry sauce) and tandoori lamb. Hours: Monday-Saturday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Sunday 5-10 p.m. $ (Reviewed Jan. 8, 1999)

Scala Mia, 820 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 323-3665 @movietext:This fine, small cucina has an expansive selection of heartwarming pastas surrounded by salads, appetizers, and main dishes that include eggplant, veal, chicken, steak and calamari. Every meal starts with small rounds of freshly baked Italian bread and a bowl of an extremely lush olive oil steeped in garlic. Each dish at Scala Mia shares two traits--incredibly good olive oil and garlic. Pastas at Scala Mia are boiled with an artful precision that keeps them from losing a second's worth of flavor. Perhaps two of the most outstanding pasta dishes are the Linguini Cozze ($9.95), linguine with fresh New Zealand mussels, hot chili flakes and roasted garlic in a red sauce, and Linguine Vongole ($10.95), linguini with sauteed fresh clams, olive oil and garlic in a white wine sauce. Whatever you do when you dine at Scala Mia, make room up front for the restaurant's wonderful array of salads. Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$ (Reviewed June 13, 1997)

Scott's Seafood Grill & Bar, 2300 E. Bayshore Rd., Palo Alto, (650) 856-1046 @movietext: The Palo Alto location of this local eight-restaurant chain serves resh seafood, shellfish, prime meat and pasta. Menus change daily to reflect the freshest daily catch. You'll find a spare but elegant atmosphere, with crisp linens and a professional staff. It all adds up to a soothing, satisfying dining experience. Besides lunch and dinner, the restaurant serves omelets, espressos and a full breakfast weekdays. Head for the back room if you want peace and quiet; otherwise sit in the front room where the bar and all the action presides. Hours: Mon. 7 a.m.- 9 p.m.; Tue.-Fri. 7 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Sat. 5-9:30 p.m.; Sun. 5-9 p.m. $$$ (Reviewd Jan. 21, 1994)

Senor Taco Taqueria, 3636 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 493-8757 @movietext:The old Senor Taco stand in Barron Park had all the ambiance of dining on the freeway. Outdoor tables were so close to El Camino you could feel the suction from cars whizzing by. Now, Senor Taco is downright spiffy. The clean, well-lighted place for tacos has plants, an attractive tile counter and murals. But it still has the same wonderful menu of burritos, tacos, snacks (nachos and taquitos) and platters (enchiladas, chile rellenos, tamales and grilled meats). If you never stray from the rice-and-bean, carne asada or chicken burrito format, you'll never understand why the place has such a following. A rice-and-bean burrito for $3.25 from Senor Taco doesn't taste all that different from a rice-and-bean burrito from a lesser restaurant for $1.89. To understand the Senor Taco fixation, you need to order the more unusual dishes: the Oaxacan chicken burrito, the Chiapas-style tamal, the calabaza burrito, the grilled meat platter. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed Oct. 13, 1995)

Shiok! Singapore Kitchen, 1137 Chestnut St., Menlo Park, (650) 838-9448 @movietext:A melding of unusual flavors plus a dash of fun at Shiok! Singapore Kitchen in Menlo Park. "Shiok" (pronounced "shook") is the Singaporean equivalent of "delish." Her pastes--called sambals, a common condiment in Singaporean cooking --are made by hand, requiring lots of grinding and pounding of chilis and garlic, followed by hours of simmering. The dining room is an eye-pleasing decor of muted red and gold colors, with high ceilings and wrought iron chandeliers. Many dishes are served on large banana leaf-shaped platters, while large covered pots contain noodle dishes. One dish called laksa ($7.50) was full of thick rice noodles, bean spouts and shrimp, (chicken is also available) and a big dollop of heavenly, spicy sambal. The ingredients were bathed in a rich, aromatic broth of curry, chilis and cilantro. For dessert, scoops of ginger and coconut ice cream ($4.50) were equally delicious and refreshing. Shiok offers a handful of beers ($3) and just four wines--fairly priced, $5.50 per glass or $19 per bottle, regardless of varietal. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 12-9 p.m. Saturday. $$ (Reviewed August 2, 2000)

Shiraz Restaurant, 2020 West El Camoni Real, Mountain View, (650) 938-2020 @movietext:Formerly known as Shalizaar Restaurant, the establishment closed last August to remodel and expand, and reopened in January as Shiraz. There is outside seating, where diners can enjoy a charming patio enhanced by umbrellas and a fountain. The large dining room at Shiraz is shockingly white--white tables, white chairs, white walls, white columns. But it's not all stark, thanks to a colorful mural covering one wall. Shiraz's menu of traditional Persian fare hasn't changed much. For the uninitiated, grilled meat and poultry are prominently featured and cooked without oils, butter or cream. The food is not spicy, but rather flavored by lemon, garlic and saffron. In addition to a few beers, Shiraz's short wine list included a Rosemont Estates 1998 Shiraz ($6.95 glass, $24 bottle) from Australia. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. $$ (Reviewed August 11, 2000)

Siam Royal, 338 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 329-8129 @movietext:Siam Royal offers an alternative perspective on Thai cuisine - milder than expected, but smooth, rich and definitely sweet. The appetizer combination plate is a nice way to get a sampling of various specialties. The fried tofu, deep-fried to an amazingly delicate, fluffy consistency, is delicious - even if you aren't a tofu fan. The soups are pleasant but not outstanding. Tom yum goong (lime prawn soup) is a clear broth with prawns and mushrooms, gai tom kah (chicken coconut soup) features chicken and mushrooms in a rich coconut milk base. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sun.-Thu. 5-9:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Nov. 12, 1993)

Silan, 376 First St., Los Altos, (650) 917-0300 @movietext:Although the name, "silan," is Kurdish for rose hips, Silan is a Northern Italian trattoria. The philosophy of owner Ismail Jan Unlu appears to be "more is more," for both decor and food. Many entrees are busy, with a dozen pastas offered with long lists of ingredients. The simpler the better is a good rule of thumb when ordering at Silan. Simple pastas, salads and sandwiches are recommended. Most of the menu is made up of hearty, moderately priced Italian classics. The wine list is a good, inexpensive collection of many Californian, with some Italian and French wines. The service is warm and friendly. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday, noon-10 p.m. Saturday, 1-9 p.m. Sunday. $$ (Reviewed July 30, 1999)

Some Kind of Place, 85 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, (650) 321-4730 @movietext:Many will remember this family-owned restaurant from its original location inside Liddicoat's on University Avenue. The location at Town & Country Village is small, but the menu spans the globe. Three items will only cost you $4.60. Try the Korean barbecue, enjoy a cheeseburger or have a cheese-topped baked potato. Owners Elizabeth and Edward Cho have given hungry lunch-goers a great way to eat in a hurry. Far from gourmet, but cheap. Hours: 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m. every day except Sunday, when the restaurant is closed. $ (Reviewed Aug. 4, 1995)

Spago, 265 Lytton Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 833-1000 @movietext:Celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck uses his signiture style of European/Asian cuisine, plus a couple of seasonal and regional offerings, at this excellent restaurant. The moment you enter you can see why it's become a hot destination. The interior, designed by Adam Tihany, is a sophisticated blend of artwork, dramatic arched windows and splashes of bold colors. The menu is a creative mix of unusual entrees and appetizers. Of particular note are the stuffed calamari and smoked salmon pizza. Be prepared for an expensive meal. Most entrees are in the $15 to $30 range, although the pizza can be had for $10-$13. There's an extensive wine list, and a side cafe for more casual events. It has a separate menu. Hours: 5:30-10:30 daily. $$$$ (Reviewed Jan. 16, 1998)

Spalti Ristorate, 417 California Avenue, Palo Alto, (650) 327-9390 @movietext:This fine restaurant offers an extensive dinner menu (as well as an only slightly abbreviated lunch menu) featuring a broad cross section of classic and unusual dishes and includes several variations of just about all the building blocks of Italian cuisine. Take your time deciding from among 13 featured pasta dishes, five salads, three veal dishes, two risottos and three chicken entrees. On top of that, owner and manager Bolton Bulut offers three or four daily specials of fish, pasta and meat. Most of the entres are in the $15 range. Spalti's atmosphere is sophisticated without being austere, service is gracious, and dishes are prepared with a knowing hand. Hours: lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Saturday; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 4:30-9 p.m. Sunday. $$ (Reviewed Jan. 24, 1997)

Straits Cafe, 3295 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 494-7168 @movietext:Prices are on the steep side at this stylish outpost of Singaporean cuisine, but dishes come in generous quantities and are meant to be shared. The menu comprehensively represents the four ethnic elements that together make up Singapore's little-known national cuisine: a strikingly seductive blend of Chinese, Indian, Malay-Indonesian and Nonya (Chinese-Malay) cooking. Given the number of singular and tempting dishes on offer, the sample platter is a sensible way to start a shared meal. It comprises exemplary vegetarian samosas, dainty Nonyan delicacies called kway pai ti (hat-shaped fried pastry shells filled with shrimp and shredded vegetables), a couple of grilled oysters served with an almost throat-catchingly peppery ginger marmalade, and Malay-Indonesian satay. The indoor dining area is elegantly but simply furnished, and the outdoor patio is magical during warmer months. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. $$$ (Reviewed Aug. 28, 1998)

Su Hong Menlo Park, 1039 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 323-6852. Also Su Hong To Go, at 630 Menlo Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 322-4631; and Su Hong Eatery, 4101 El Camino Way, Palo Alto, (650) 323-6852. @movietext:Su Hong, opened in 1977, is part of an old guard in Menlo Park witnessing the encroaching hordes of high-profile eateries. In just the past year, this small area of Menlo Park has become home to several celebrity-chef outposts that draw from as far away as San Francisco. So, with all these new choices, is anyone still patronizing the old-timers? They are at Su Hong, beloved for its predictable, Americanized Chinese food, served in an unfussy dining room where no one worries about what to wear. All these new restaurants nearby have made parking a hardship, but Su Hong's Chinese chicken salad is worth the bother. There is also a location on El Camino Way in Palo Alto and a to-go spot on Menlo Avenue. Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat. and Sun.; 4-9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 4-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. $ (Reviewed April 30, 1999)

Sue's Indian Cuisine, 216 Castro St., Mountain View, (650) 969-1112 @movietext:Generous with portions, Sue's serves southern Indian cuisine that's rich and spicy in a casual atmosphere. Diners are surrounded by paintings by the restaurant's owner. Authentic Indian dishes include shrimp biriani ($8.95), made with cashews, almonds and raisins, which give the dish a pleasing flavor and texture, and a vindaloo that's sure to please those who like to sear their tastebuds. Vegetarians can choose from eight dishes in the vegetarian section of the menu, as well as a handful of dishes from other sections. Appetizers of nan--puffed-up Indian bread--and golden fried samosa--pockets of slivered green beans--come to life when dipped in lentil or tamarind sauces. Cold beer is a great accompaniment. Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday, 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. $ (Reviewed Dec. 29, 1995)

Sultan's, 2639 Broadway, Redwood City, (650) 365-1223 @movietext:Formerly Ephesus, this popular Turkish restaurant changed its name in February 2000. Head to Sultan's for a magic carpet ride that it brings Turkey closer than you think. It's Turkish-owned - by Engin Kuc - and serves Turkish food prepared by a Turkish chef - Naim Fit - in a delicately Middle Eastern setting put together by a Turkish designer. Lamb is a specialty and comes in many forms - gyros, kabobs, cubes, slices - and is cooked in a variety of ways. Generally, the more carnivorous the dish, the better the result, and all diners are treated to baskets of impeccably fresh, warm, sesame-scented flatbread. Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Nov. 6, 1998)

Sundance Mine Company, 1921 El Camino Real, Palo Alto. (650) 321-6798. @movietext:A Palo Alto institution for nearly a quarter century, Sundance long ago perfected the manly combination of dark wood, strategically placed sporting equipment and big slabs of Angus beef. Its tag line is "The Steakhouse," but the Sundance kitchen focuses just as much on surf as it does on turf. The lighting at Sundance is dim, coming mostly from little flickering table oil lamps. Lots of deeply varnished cherrywood and forest green upholstery give the many dining areas a cozy, men's club feel, along with the thick-cut, well-marbled and bloody rare steaks. The twilight dinner menu is the real deal. For $13.95, customers get a soup or salad and entree before 6 p.m. - great when the entree is 6 ounces of prime rib or a fillet of grilled ahi tuna. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Mon.-Thurs. 5-10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. until 10:30 p.m., Sun. 5-9 p.m. $$$$ (Reviewed March 19, 1999)

Suraj Indian Cuisine, 2550 El Camino Real, Redwood City, (650) 369-8899 @movietext:Anyone who enjoys the heady flavors of cross-regional Indian cooking should find Suraj worth checking out. At six pages, the menu at six pages is daunting in its length. Although the kitchen prepares dishes found throughout India, there's an accent on the vegetable- and spice-loving region of India's south. The portions are large and the restaurant is spacious--seating for about 200 diners. The restaurant serves all the specialties you'd expect--naans, pilafs, pulses and tandoori-cooked meats. Of particular note is the lamb vindaloo ($12.95 a la carte), tender chunks in a vinegary sauce--thick with potato, tomato, and scallions. It's hot--four on a heat scale of one to five - but it was a controlled heat, without the stinging ferocity that emerges from carelessly mixed or undercooked spices. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily; dinner 5:30-10 p.m. daily. $$ (Reviewed Aug. 8, 1997)

Swagat Indian Cuisine, 2700 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View, (650) 948-7727 @movietext:Swagat not only dares to be different by offering southern Indian specialties like lentil crepes and sambar soup. This restaurant also distinguishes itself by a serious commitment to quality. It's worth a trip to the border of Palo Alto and Mountain View to find Swagat between a motel and a carwash on El Camino. Dining chairs with white brocade seats are cautiously covered in plastic. And white table cloths come with a paper mat at each place, makeing the place both kid-friendly and "dress-up" special. Take anything on the menu that's offered with sambar, southern India's rice-lentil soup. Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m., buffet lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; happy hour 4-6 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Aug. 19, 1994)

Taqueria La Bamba, 2058 Old Middlefield Way, Mountain View; (650) 965-2755. @movietext:No-frills to the extreme, Taqueria La Bamba has no tables; just a counter. Most people order their food to go. All of that matters very little once the food comes. The menu is a wonderful mixture of Mexican and Salvadoran dishes. On the Salvadoran side of the menu, the pupusas are a must. The tamales are also worth ordering, and La Bamba offers one of the best quesadillas you can to find. There is also a nice selection of meat fillings for tacos and burritos. The prices at Taqueria La Bamba are also terrific. A regular burrito, which is huge, is $3.80 and offers a load of rice, beans, onions, cilantro, salsa and your choice of meat. A taco, again with your choice of meat, onions, cilantro and salsa, is $1.80. The messy nachos plate, with chips, salsa, guacamole, sour cream and cheese, can be had for $3.75. Hours: 10 a.m.-9:30 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed June 9, 2000)

Taxi's, 403 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 322-8294 @movietext:This clean, well-lighted place for burgers and fries attracts a steady stream of teenagers, families and nostalgia buffs who line up to the door to put away baskets of onion rings, chili dogs, tuna melts and other foods of times gone by. What to call it? Diner Moderne? Nouveau diner? Either way, Taxi's has thrown together all the classic kitschy elements of a diner: a counter with stools that go around in a circle, gleaming black and white tile, fluorescent lights, a jukebox. It's an especially good place for kids, who will find buckets of crayons and a menu sized just for them. The menu is basic Americana with a twist. Besides the hallowed trio of burgers-shakes-and-fries, Taxi's offers several lowfat, low-cholesterol alternatives: the garden burger, the grilled fish sandwich, chicken breasts and baked potatoes. The menu boasts that Taxi's fries all its food in canola oil. Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. until midnight. $ (Reviewed Jan. 5, 1996)

Tea Time, 542 Ramona St., Palo Alto, (650) 328-2877 @movietext:For the aesthete who can tell an oolong from a darjeeling with just one whiff, Tea Time in Palo Alto is the place to visit. All of the teas are offered in a mini pot ($2), a 4-cup pot ($3.50) or a 6-cupper ($4.75), and a variety of tea sandwiches, scones, crumpets and cookies round out the menu. But this is a chilly environment for neophytes. The shop operates as an order-over-the-counter establishment. Sandwiches (cucumber and radish, smoked salmon, chicken salad) are decoratively cut, crusts removed, naturally. They're pretty, but none of the flavors wow you. And the new crumpet menu brings a series of English muffin-like breads topped simply with cheeses or canned crabmeat. The real draw at Tea Time is the tea, pure and simple. Hours: 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sat. $ (Reviewed Feb. 4, 2000)

Thai City, 3691 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 493-0643 @movietext:Fresh chilis, coconut milk, sour lemon grass and pungent cilantro are flavors that intermingle beautifully in the dishes served at Thai City. An authentic smoker makes roast duck a treat. Coconut milk comes from the real thing instead of a can. Flavors at this casual and simple restaurant are tropical and unique, but diners need not feel intimidated by unusual-sounding specials. You can request less hot versions of anything on the menu, and when the kitchen is at its best everything from beef curry to Thai spinach in mild duck or baked salmon comes out shining. Service is friendly and families are welcome. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; nightly 5-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Aug. 14, 1991)

Thai Garden, 4329 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, (650) 949-5259 @movietext: Don't let the vacation - in front of the Palo Alto Bowl bowling alley - deter you from dining at one of the better Thai restaurants in town. Home grown herbs and handmade curries make the difference here - there's a freshness and intensity in flavors not found at other Thai restaurants. Casual day and night, it is not uncommon to hear pins being knocked over by balls in the neighboring bowling lanes. This is a good place for groups, with lots of big tables and plenty of yummy dishes to share. Spiciness is mild to barely medium, so even the most timid palate can feel comfortable dining here. Plain decor is spiked with a blast from the past - high backed, red leather banquettes and formica-topped tables. Shrimp salad dressed with lime chili vinaigrette and deliciously piquant green papaya salad are not to be missed. Skip the dull lunch specials and go for rich curry dishes, shrimp with mint or ginger beef. Try brown rice instead of white - it's better for you anyway and has a nice, nutty flavor. Thai iced tea is the perfect mate to these Asian dishes. If you love hot and spicy, ask the kitchen to kick it up a notch. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Sat. 12-10:30 p.m.; Sun. 5-9 p.m. $-$$ (Reviewed April 6, 2001)

Tied House Cafe and Brewery, 954 Villa St., Mountain View, (650) 965-2739 @movietext:The generous selection of award-winning beers is reason enough to pay this bustling "beer hall" a visit. Diners should draw their own conclusions about which beers best suit particular dishes, since the menu and servers provide few guidelines. A combination appetizer platter ($9.95) offers portions of blackened catfish strips, buffalo tenderloins (chicken breast strips a la buffalo wings), and two pieces of grilled sausage, including good bratwurst and spicy andouille. The Tied House's open kitchen prepares good hamburgers ($5.75) and commendable baby back ribs ($9.95 a half-slab). Hours: Lunch daily from 1:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Wednesday 4:30-9:30 p.m, Thursday-Saturday 4:30-10:30 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Jan. 27, 1995)

Tony & Alba's, 619 Escuela Ave., Mountain View, (650) 968-5089, www.tonyalba.com @movietex:Feast on great pizzas and more at this pizza parlor that hand-tosses pies and tops them with creative, hearty toppings. The cheese is always stringy and the crust soft, sweet and chewy. Tony's special pizzas are tasty works of art, covered in various meats and veggies. You'll find fresh salads, big, huge calzones, and a variety of pasta dishes. Choose your own noodles and sauce. Although most of the business here is takeout or delivery, there's plenty of room for dining in - and for hosting parties or large get-togethers. The Mountain View location is the original that's spawned six others throughout the South Bay and beyond. Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m. $$ (Reviewed Jan. 26, 2001)

Toshi's Sushiya Restaurant, 211 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, (650) 326-8862 @movietext:At Toshi's, where food presentation is a fine art, the soft shell crab roll and giant futomaki are the most unusual offerings on its sushi menu. Heartier udon noodle soups ($5.90-$6.85) come in three versions. The most expensive dunks two long fried shrimp in the broth like swizzle sticks. Toshi's decor is spare and bare with boxy hanging lights made of miniature shoji screens. For kitsch, there's a clock on the wall with 12 varieties of plastic sushi replacing the numerals. Service is prompt and conscientious. Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5:30-9:45 p.m. Closed Monday. $ (Reviewed Jan. 13, 1995)

Trattoria Buon Gusto, 651-H Oak Grove Ave., Menlo Park, (650) 328-2778 @movietext:Trattoria Buon Gusto is little, cute, homey and off the beaten path. While its address is on Oak Grove, it's actually hidden around the corner on Maloney Lane. Palma Costa and her daughter Maria could go mano a mano with any of the area's Italian chefs and come out on top, risotto for risotto, arugula salad for arugula salad. But where they completely dominate is with their perfect, feather-light gnocchi served in a wonderfully sweet, fresh-tasting tomato sauce. The other pastas are equally delicious served with tomato or cream sauces, and the soup of the day is flavorful and comforting. Also recommended is the house salad ($6.25), the arugula salad ($7.50), and the arancini ($8). The deserts are a mix of traditional-tiramisu ($6), cassata Siciliana ($6), etc.-and whimsical. Try the chocolate salami ($6), rounds of a dense chocolate terrine dotted with white cookie (meant to resemble the fat) and served on a rich chocolate sauce. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday, until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. $$ (Reviewed April 21, 2000)

Una Mas Playa Bar & Grill, Stanford Shopping Center, curbside between Bloomingdale's and Macy's, (650) 323-8226 @movietext:The flagship site in Richard Hamner's 40-restaurant chain, Una Mas is still a counter-service quick Mexican joint, but it now has a long, sleek bar offering margaritas ($4.25), pina coladas ($4.75), tequila shots ($4.50-$6.75) and wines and beers. TVs in the bar area make for good noshing and game watching. Una Mas now offers complete dinners in addition to the roundup of tacos, burritos, combos and tostadas. Recommended are the taqueria tacos (2 for $3.45) and the chicken tamales ($5.95). Kids can get a bean and cheese burrito (or pb&j), with chips and a small soda or milk for $3.25-perfect size, perfect price. Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed April 28, 2000)

Uncle Frank's soul food, 2417 Pulgas Ave., East Palo Alto, (650) 921-6369 @movietext: At Uncle Frank's meats are smoked outside daily on a home-built smoker the size of a small caboose. The menu is simple at Uncle Frank's: beef links ($6.50), chicken ($7.00), pork ribs ($7.50) and beef brisket ($8.00) for lunch. Each order comes with nondescript servings of bread and potato salad, but a delicious red bean and white rice combination livens the side dishes. For dinner you can choose one meat ($10.75), two meats ($11.75), three meats ($13.75) or the beef brisket dinner ($12.75). Thursday through Saturday special combo plates are available for $13.75, with added mixed greens and house-made cornbread. Catfish and fries are also offered on Friday ($8.00). Also, at Uncle Frank's the sauce is not a barbecue sauce, but is rather called "Original Louisiana Sauce Du Jour". Bell makes a fresh batch each day, slowly stirring in the dozen or more ingredients. The result is a sauce that is chunky, thick and sweet, with a lingering smokiness and piquancy to it. Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday through Saturday. $$ (Reviewed July 21, 2000).

University Coffee Cafe, 271 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 322-5301 @movietext:Cozy is not a word that comes to mind in describing this java, juice and sandwich spot. It's streamlined. Polished. Cavernous. Behind shiny espresso makers, high-tech juicers and sparkling glass display cases, earnest and helpful young counter servers dish up the likes of black bean chicken chili, line-caught ahi tuna or grilled free-range chicken sandwiches, smoothies, fresh-squeezed fruit and vegetable juices, hummus with baked garlic pita chips and, of course, all the requisite Italian coffees. Breakfast is served until 11 a.m. Hours: 7:30 a.m.-11 p.m. weekdays, 7:30 a.m.-midnight Fri. and Sat., 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. $ (Reviewed Jan. 20, 1995)

Valley Bar & Grill, 194 Castro St., Mountain View, (650) 968-1848 @movietext:Valley Bar & Grill is a big, breezy place geared toward young people having a good time, with a large indoor patio and expansive bar. But the dinner menu is incoherent-quesadillas, sweet-and-sour chicken, Thai sticks and fettucine alfredo are some of the offerings, and the delivery is mixed. Salads are good, especially the Caesar and the "Classic Greek." Burgers are mediocre. The best entree is the chicken Alba ($13.95), an Italian-inpired marriage of chicken breast, a swirl of sauteed spinach and a blanket of mozzarella, all ladled with a spunky piccata sauce and paired cheesecake, chocolate mousse pie (all $4.50), and are generously portioned. Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri., 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat., 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun. $$ (Reviewed

Verde Tea & Espresso Bar, 852 Villa St., Mountain View, (650) 210-9986 @movietext:Verde is a Taiwanese tea house, offering typical American-style deli sandwiches alongside a menu of Taiwanese thick toast and pearl green milk tea, the latest Asian delicacy to cross the Pacific. Taiwanese toast is fat wedges of white bread topped with blueberry syrup, garlic butter or coconut cream custard. The pearl tea is a steamed milk extravaganza with a wonderfully spiced aroma. The tea is consumed via straw, one with a diameter of about three quarters of an inch to allow the big black tapioca balls at the bottom to periodically whoosh up the straw and into your mouth. You can see the black balls traveling up through the milk in the translucent straw, giving you a moment's notice before they hit paydirt. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Fri. and Sat., 2-9:30 p.m. Sun. $ (Reviewed Feb. 4, 2000)

Vivaca Grill, 800 California St., Mountain View; (650) 318-8010. @movietext:Despite small portions, high prices and a limited selection, Vivaca Grill offers tasty appetizers, salads and grilled entrees. Appetizers include seared scallops ($11.50), oven-baked flat bread ($10), and crab cakes ($9); salads Caesar ($7), house ($5.50) and walnut and pear ($7). Entrees consist of such staples as grilled rack of lamb served with minted couscous and rosemary-infused lamb jus ($22), roasted breast of chicken stuffed with mousse ($18.50), grilled Atlantic salmon ($17), and Duck Three Ways ($22), in which the bird is seared and roasted, and served with smoked sausage and duck confit. The Grill also offers lobster ravioli ($16.50) and a fine 21-day, dry-aged New York steak ($23), which is served with mashed potatoes and wild mushroom ragout. For dessert, try the cräme brulee ($7), flavored nicely with vanilla bean, or the white chocolate cheesecake ($7), with a dark chocolate sauce. Vivaca also offers a good selection of after-dinner drinks, including some fine single malt scotch. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 5:30-10 p.m. Sat. Credit cards are accepted. $$$$ (Reviewed

Wild Hare, 1029 El Camino Real, Menlo Park. (650) 327-4273 @movietext:Ostrich satay and bison carpaccio. I kid you not. Everything celebrity chef Joey Altman does feels new, dangerous and just slightly nuts. His new restaurant concept is a hyper-stylish restaurant that explores and celebrates wild game, taking undomesticated animals in directions and through preparations that are clearly uncharted territory. The restaurant itself looks like a cross between a dude ranch barn and an airplane hangar. Soaring ceilings, rough-hewn beams and a 60-foot mural of wild beasts (many only marginally edible) by artist Michael Brennan conspire to give the airy space a dynamic but clubby feel. Somehow it manages to avoid being overly masculine--a hare club for men, if you will--through the use of flattering, butter-colored lighting and other genteel appointments. The wine list shows exceptional range, with useful and well-written descriptions of each wine. Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. $$$$ (Reviewed May 21, 1999)

Woodside Bakery and Cafe, 3052 Woodside Road, Woodside. (650) 851-0812 @movietext:It's been 18 years, and the Woodside Bakery and Cafe still attracts a broad and hilarious cross-section of humanity. There are the bicyclists in loud, aerodynamic shirts stopping in for some carbo-loading. There are families, the littlest members in high chairs or car carriers. Business lunchers balance briefcases and cell phones with their sandwiches or plates of pasta. Even moony-eyed date-night warriors can be seen choosing a bottle from the short, bargain-priced wine list. The bakery side still turns out serviceable sticky buns and cakes with gooey buttercream roses, but the cafe side has refined and distilled its hip Cal-Ital menu over the years to accommodate the cravings of Woodside locals--roasted butternut squash soup, penne Sylvia, salmon saltimbocca. Hours: Bakery open 6 a.m.-6 p.m. daily; cafe open 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. $ (Reviewed April 9, 1999)

Yamin Win, 305 Second Street, Los Altos, (650) 941-9293 @movietext: Yamin Win in Los Altos serves Burmese food worth trying. A modest dining room, decorated with colorful wall hangings, is otherwise plain vanilla. Recommended is the la pat thok ($5.95), an unusual but traditional dish of dried tea leaves, yellow peas, diced tomatoes, dried shrimp, chiles and shredded cabbage. Also worth a try is the mohinga soup ($6.50), one of Burma's most popular dishes consisting of thin rice noodles placed in a bowl, with an aromatic, thick brownish fish stew ladeled over them. Entrees include Ohn ta min ($7.95), coconut rice with beef or chicken curry and Burmese-style prawns ($12.50), shrimp bathed in a rich tomato sauce flavored with ginger, red chiles and onion. Other highlights are the traditional Burmese sweet drinks like Jao jaw, with coconut milk and tapioca ($2.95) and deserts like shwe jee cake ($3.95), a warm and rich cake similar to bread pudding. Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Monday- Sunday. $ (Reviewed July 14, 2000)

Zao, 261 University Ave., Palo Alto, (650) 328-1988; fax your order to (650) 328-1865 @movietext:Zao is a small, angular, skylighted noodle bar that takes a cross-section of Eastern noodle dishes and gussies 'em up with a Pacific Rim-California cuisine sensibility. By the time you're done, you'll be fully acquainted with the restaurant's namesake: the benevolent Eastern sage who embodies the two most important aspects of life--good food and shelter. Don't worry, if the marketing approach irritates you, the food won't. It's a good noodle house that features its specialty cold, sauteed or in broth. Zao's prices are well within the range of affordable, certainly for the restaurant amusement park known as downtown Palo Alto. Dinner entree prices range from $4.95 for broccoli and buckwheat noodles to $7.95 for seared steak in cilantro broth. Zao's small menu includes two "Kid Noodle" items: chicken, vegetables and wheat noodle broth; and rice vermicelli and veggies with a peanut broth ($3.95 each). Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. $ (Reviewed May 30, 1997)

Zibibbo, 430 Kipling Street, Palo Alto, (650) 328-6722 @movietext:Zibibbo is the name of a grape used in Italy's regional dessert wines, and it's a fitting appellation for this restaurant--quirky, witty and down-to-earth. The menu spans the cuisines of the Mediterranean, including dishes from the south of France, Italy, Greece, Morocco and Spain. The open kitchen creates untraditional variations on dishes that are traditionally associated with the area, incorporating in-season produce, fresh fish and occasional experiments. The menu is tweaked daily and will be overhauled seasonally as raw materials come into and out of season. Many dishes at the restaurant are meant to be shared and come to the table on a family-style platter. Main dishes are in the $15-$20 range, sides about $4-$7 and appetizers run from $3-$10. The restaurant is laid out with expertise. It will seat up to 280 but you'd never know it by the mix of intimate and wide open eating areas. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sun.-Thu. 5:30-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat 5:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m.; Brunch Sat. & Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. $$$ (Reviewed Nov. 14, 1997)