Lee Isgur, principal at Menlo Park's Marche restaurant, has his sights on the stars -- restaurant critics' stars, that is. With a new executive chef, Kolin Vazzoler, and an exciting new menu, he's intent on making Marche one of the five best restaurants in Northern California.After dining there, I think he just might do it. The food served at Marche on a recent Friday night had a refinement you rarely see in Peninsula restaurants.
We were comfortably seated in a booth in the main dining room with a window onto the kitchen. The room, which can seem drab in the daytime, glows at night from oversize hanging lamps and votive candles.
We ordered from the a la carte menu. There is also a tasting menu, which can vary in price according to the selections, and a chef's tasting menu ($110) available on the weekends. The chef's menu is where chef Vazzoler presents his edgier creations. Some examples are: lamb and scallop tartare with strawberry and hyssop, and Tasmanian salmon belly with lobster and licorice broth.
Before our appetizers arrived, we were served complimentary servings of lobster bisque. The amuse bouche, warm crusty rolls and a nice bottle of pinot noir put us in a good mood, despite the slow service.
The extensive wine list had selections by the glass, beginning at $10. There were many fine wines in the $40 to $50 range. We chose a 2003 pinot noir Saint Aubin ($40), which perfectly complemented our dinners. There is also an impressive collection of fine wines for the "expense account" customer. Corkage fee is $25. There is also a full bar.
For a starter, I had soft-shell crab served on a bed of cherry tomatoes, white corn and pancetta ($16). The tasty little critter was dipped in panko crumbs and sauteed. Delicious.
My guest chose diver scallops ($18) as an appetizer. The dish could also be ordered as a main course ($33). It was accompanied by fava beans, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, artichokes, vadouvan (a French curry mixture) and brown butter. The ingredients were pristine, but my guest would have liked more sauce.
The same with a main course of roast squab breasts ($36) with spring onions, morels, haricot vert, and cherry balsamic. "Aren't the sauces what French cooking is all about?" she asked.
My loin of lamb was nicely medium rare, served over a slice of braised lamb shank, Scarlett Nantes carrots, eggplant, and a spoonful of "dukkah nuts and spices." I had to resort to Google to learn more about the food. Scarlett Nantes carrots are described as "a classic among carrots, noted for old-time flavor." Dukkah nuts and spices are "an Egyptian blend based on a Middle Eastern recipe."
Pistachio-crusted pork loin ($36) accompanied by apricot chutney and red torpedo onion fondue, sounded like another delicious option.
Dessert was a sweet ending to the evening. Our choices were passion fruit coconut panna cotta ($11) from the contemporary section and milk chocolate creme brulee ($9) from the classic menu. My guest's panna cotta came with a lime-mint granita, passion fruit curd, and Earl Grey ice cream. She said the granita was a refreshing ending to the meal.
The creme brulee was luscious and satisfying. A little plate of complimentary goodies completed the meal on a high note.
While Marche has been a stylish and pricey addition to the local restaurant scene since it opened in 2001, it's exciting to see the new direction it's taking with Vazzoler and Isgur.
They are showing diners you don't have to drive to San Francisco or wait months for a reservation in Yountville to have a memorable dining experience. You can scale the culinary heights right here on the Peninsula.
