Palo Alto Weekly

Eating Out - April 20, 2012

Practically Parisian

Pastis is one of the most authentic French dining experiences around

by Dale F. Bentson

I thought I'd eaten in this pocket-sized bistro before. Was it in Montmartre, or was it near the Place des Vosges? Could it have been in Aix-en-Provence? Lyon? It really didn't matter. Pastis Bistro, on California Avenue in Palo Alto, is an unpretentious French bistro at home anywhere.

Pastis is possibly the most authentic casual French restaurant experience in the area. The premise is simple: five salads, seven small plates, seven main plates, four desserts with nightly specials, an affordable wine list, and an enthusiastic and attentive waitstaff that infuses character and life into the restaurant.

The space is diminutive, a dozen or so tables with a few more seats streetside, weather permitting. The walls are mustardy pale with mirrors above a long banquette giving the illusion of more spacious quarters. Pendant lights dangle quietly from the ceiling. Sturdy wood framing defines the tiny bar area as well as menu boards and mirrors.

Owned by Bernard Cartal and nephew Max Roucoule, Pastis debuted in late December in the space vacated by Joanie's Cafe. Cartal, who owns Joanie's as well, had moved it a few doors up the street and expanded.

"There are no good French bistros in the area. We wanted to do one," Roucoule said. "There used to be many French restaurants in Palo Alto, not so many any more."

Ably manning the kitchen is Jose "Andre" Hernandez, who was the original chef at Cartal's Cafe Brioche 16 years ago. He was cooking in Los Angeles when he heard Cartal was opening a French bistro and wanted to be part of it. "Much of our staff worked at Joanie's or Cafe Brioche for years," Roucoule added.

I had no misgivings over any dish I ordered. Portions were large, with the ingredients fresh and pacing perfect. The menu was straightforward, with relaxed, homey comfort food in the French manner. By that I mean several mussel dishes plus fish, poultry and beef. There were more green salads than one finds in similar bistros in France, but less offal.

That is, except for the salade au foie de volaille ($13). It featured warm chicken livers and crispy pancetta over a cradle of spinach dressed with shallot-champagne dressing. In France, of course, the liver would have been glorious foie gras, but no need to get into that discussion here.

Pastis makes one of my favorite salads: frisee aux lardons ($11) with poached egg in a shallot dressing. Lardons, in case you've forgotten, are small pieces of pork about the size of a jellybean, used to season salads and savory dishes. They are made from salt-cured pork (pancetta) and crisped accordingly. Some local restaurants substitute bacon, but it isn't quite the same thing. The Pastis salad was mouthwatering.

We tried only one of the mussels dishes, moules gorgonzola ($14.95). It was a seemingly odd combination, shellfish and blue cheese, but the gorgonzola component was a light cream sauce with just enough pungency to give it oomph.

The coquilles St. Jacques au gratin ($11) was still bubbling in the shell-shaped plate when it was served. The bay scallops had been sauteed in white wine, butter and herbs, and topped with toasted garlic breadcrumbs. Talk about comfort food.

At lunch one day, the excellent quiche Lorraine ($11.95) came with a salad, but the waiter wisely asked if I preferred French fries after noting I had ordered a salad for starters. The quiche crust was flaky and supple with a hint of sweetness to balance the saltiness of the bacon and cheese.

Of the main dishes, the delectable poulet a la moutarde ($17.95) was fork-tender chicken breast in a creamy grain mustard sauce with mushrooms, whipped potatoes and ratatouille.

The hachis parmentier ($16) was sliced braised beef casserole topped with cheese. That night, the plate came with a pile of crisp lettuce dressed in olive oil. While satisfying, it was my least favorite dish. Not bad in any way, just less inspired. Better was the bavette l'echalotte ($19.95): grilled flank steak smothered in sweet caramelized shallots.

Desserts were all excellent. The warm blackberry crumble ($8) was served in a top-crusted ramekin oozing with vanilla ice cream. The tarte tartin ($8), also with ice cream, was delicately sweet-tasting and syrupy, and hadn't been over baked.

Pastis is a vibrant addition to the California Avenue corridor. It's French all right, from the waitstaff to the decor. And the food is bistro-worthy: tasty, filling and well-prepared, with prices that don't offend. Reservations are highly recommended.

Pastis

447 California Ave., Palo Alto

650-324-1355

pastispaloalto.com

Lunch: Tue.-Fri. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner: Tue.-Sat. 5-9:30 p.m. Brunch: Sat.-Sun. 9:30 a.m.-3 p.m.

Reservations: yes

Credit cards: yes

Parking: street

Alcohol: wine and beer

Corkage: none

Children: yes

Catering: no

Takeout: yes

Outdoor dining: streetside tables

Private parties: no

Noise level: moderate

Bathroom cleanliness: very good

Comments

Posted by claud francois, a resident of Old Palo Alto
on Apr 29, 2012 at 8:08 pm

Go to our favorite bistro vida or the left bank and than talk about bistro food we been to pastis which is not good and average this is not pastis in new york city so do not use that name not related to that one very average food so that is more french bistro that is better in every thing so go try and what they do


Posted by nadine, a resident of Old Palo Alto
on Apr 29, 2012 at 8:12 pm

you right we went to pastis and was nothing a special and we are french the food was very american and average


Posted by Andrea , a resident of Evergreen Park
on May 24, 2012 at 11:17 pm

Their yelp reviews seem to say otherwise. I've been to Left Bank many times and the food there is nothing to write home about..IF they even have it as they seem to run out of things fairly often. Vida is a great spot but the food is very similiar to Pastis- just different items. You do know the owner of Pastis is french but he tries to make the food somewhat user friendly since many americans are turned off or scared off by french food they dont recognize.
Pastis is a small french bistro and just because they are called Pastis does not mean they have anything to do with the Pastis in NY or any of the other Pastis' around the country. Its just a name related to a french liquer.
I will go to Pastis over Left Bank any day.


Posted by Hmmm, a resident of East Palo Alto
on May 25, 2012 at 6:15 pm

Andrea - your comment has convinced me to try it out, so I look forward to it. I don't hate Left Bank, but have found it underwhelming on several occasions. Thanks for the recommendation!


Posted by Anjela, a resident of Palo Alto Hills
on Oct 24, 2012 at 6:15 pm

I go to Paris - AND Pastis all the time...not only are they friendly at this cozy bistro, they work hard to make you feel comfortable and the food is amazing...
when I feel like a bit of Paris, I go over and then I am utterly satisfied...see you there and tell them Alex and Anjela sent you!


Posted by Sharon, a resident of Midtown
on Oct 24, 2012 at 7:18 pm


The food is OK-not great

But-according to the article-they charge no corkage for wine you bring.

In a severely depressed and rapidily declining economy-that is a big plus for potential customers.


Don't miss out on the discussion!
Sign up to be notified of new comments on this topic.

Email:


Post a comment

Posting an item on Town Square is simple and requires no registration. Just complete this form and hit "submit" and your topic will appear online. Please be respectful and truthful in your postings so Town Square will continue to be a thoughtful gathering place for sharing community information and opinion. All postings are subject to our TERMS OF USE, and may be deleted if deemed inappropriate by our staff.

We prefer that you use your real name, but you may use any "member" name you wish.

Name: *

Select your neighborhood or school community: * Not sure?

Comment: *

Verification code: *
Enter the verification code exactly as shown, using capital and lowercase letters, in the multi-colored box.

*Required Fields