Palo Alto Weekly

Eating Out - May 14, 2010

And now for something completely different

Palo Alto's Baume: modern French with macrobiotic influences

by Sheila Himmel

Baume could be the soul of a new cuisine. Or it could be just another once-pretty face on a high-turnover restaurant corner of Palo Alto's California Avenue.

Two people ventured early behind the orange door and gave me their opinions about Baume. One got all dreamy-eyed recalling his 10-course feast; the other said everyone in her party left hungry.

I side with the besotted. But love it or hate it, you have to give Baume major style points.

The restaurant's website describes Baume as serving "French modern cuisine with a Zen touch."

Chef-owner Bruno Chemel, 41, studied macrobiotic cooking in Japan and worked at starry restaurants in France, New York, Southern California and San Francisco. Most recently, he headed the kitchen at Mountain View's Chez TJ, with pastry chef Ryan Shelton and much of the staff of Baume. They opened Jan. 28 and run a pretty tight little ship.

There is science behind the food, but don't feel compelled to dissect every dish. Eating at Baume is delicious fun — a game in which you don't know what's going to happen.

You have to know this: Baume is a benevolent dictatorship. The choices are five-, 10- or 15-course dinner, made with the 20 or so ingredients listed. If you are allergic or just don't want any ingredients, tell your server and the chef will leave them out. All we knew about a recent five-course meal, $78 per person, was that it would include young garlic, beef, saffron and 17 other ingredients.

Whom does Monsieur Chemel think he is? And where? It's Palo Alto: not New York, not Paris. Many of us would rather spend this kind of money at a steakhouse. And you know what, we still can.

The two dining areas are cozy behind blackout windows and heavy drapes. Diners aren't hovered over, but there is lots of front-room staff, serving at a steady pace. Details extend to filtered tap water, cold without ice, poured behind a napkin without splashing.

Decor is just beyond minimal. You look at each other or the food. And by the way, on a recent weeknight no one wore jeans.

Our meal began splendidly, with a "chocolate truffle of olives." Two balls of tapenade, cocoa-lookalikes in paper cups, were to be spread onto freshly toasted walnut bread.

All breads are baked in-house. We had yeasty French epi rolls, with amazingly thin bottom crusts, and steamy soft whole-wheat buns. The part of butter was played by a cold, creamy balsamic-olive oil spread. Next to it was an herbal and surprisingly more liquid marriage of tofu and parsley. Baume is a feast of textures and temperatures at every turn.

Still, it's all about taste. Next up: scallop sashimi with passion-fruit caviar, a mouth-filling soup spoon each that heightened interest in whatever was to come.

The first course stumbled over itself: a jumble of luscious asparagus spears, just slightly warm, with tiny balls of hollandaise sauce; a curl of asparagus, pureed asparagus and pickled peri-peri peppers, sweet rather than hot; and shavings of Parmesan cheese. Individual parts were good, but didn't work together.

Course two, the bacon "floating island," made up for all that. A cube of meringue, soft as a marshmallow, floated in warm artichoke soup with a scoop of olive-oil ice cream. Very fine bacon covered the island.

The fish course cemented our faith. Ethereal striped bass rested on fennel-laced panna cotta, in a sea of bouillabaisse reduced to its essence. It was like enjoying a whole seafood stew in a few spoonfuls.

The main course was an impossibly tender filet mignon, the size of a tall brownie, topped with microgreens. One spear of baby leek rested on an itsy-bitsy cipollini onion tart. Perigord truffle sauce and mustard sauce contrasted beautifully with the sweet tart.

Before dessert came another play on words, "sashmi of lichee fruit," which meant seedless lichee filet with chocolate in a spoon.

Dessert included a strawberry ice cream soda, a chocolate tarragon torte (incredibly creamy with a crunchy bottom), more strawberry ice cream and crumbled chocolate.

Before leaving, we got tiny eclairs with pieces of sweet bacon. It was like eating a maple bar without the indigestion.

Which explains Baume in a nutshell. Eat. Enjoy. Leave, totally satisfied, carrying good memories, not fat.

(Note 1: We sprang for the wine pairing, $50 for ample pours of 2007 Cheverny from the Loire, 2002 Chalone District Chardonnay from Michaud, 2008 Napa Valley Viogner, 2004 Margaux, and a five-year Madeira.)

(Note 2: At lunch, three days a week, $48 buys three courses, $68 with wine.)

Baume

201 S. California Ave., Palo Alto

650-328-8899

www.baumerestaurant.com

Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Mon., Thurs., Fri. Dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. Thurs.-Sun.

Reservations: yes

Credit cards: yes

Parking: street

Alcohol: wine

Children: highly unlikely

Catering: No

Takeout: no

Outdoor dining: no

Party facilities: yes

Noise level: good

Bathroom cleanliness: excellent

Comments

Posted by Mark E., a resident of Atherton
on May 15, 2010 at 6:12 pm

You have to wonder about anyone who leaves a 10-course meal feeling hungry. I recall a comment on Yelp about someone who left French Laundry unsated, and stopped by Taco Bell on the way home.

Maybe some people should just stick to Applebee's and the like.


Posted by obesity, a resident of Midtown
on May 15, 2010 at 7:48 pm

The reason some people feel hungry after a big meal is good old fashioned American obesity.


If you were a member and logged in you could track comments from this story.

Post a comment

Posting an item on Town Square is simple and requires no registration. Just complete this form and hit "submit" and your topic will appear online. Please be respectful and truthful in your postings so Town Square will continue to be a thoughtful gathering place for sharing community information and opinion. All postings are subject to our TERMS OF USE, and may be deleted if deemed inappropriate by our staff.

We prefer that you use your real name, but you may use any "member" name you wish.

Name: *

Select your neighborhood or school community: * Not sure?

Comment: *

Verification code: *
Enter the verification code exactly as shown, using capital and lowercase letters, in the multi-colored box.

*Required Fields